>> male announcer: WELCOME TO TRAVELSCOPE, WITH JOSEPH ROSENDO, WHERE EACH WEEK, YOU JOIN US AS WE ACCEPT THE WORLD'S INVITATION TO VISIT.

>> Rosendo: TODAY ON TRAVELSCOPE I JOURNEY TO THE DRIEST PLACE ON EARTH, THE ATACAMA DESERT, WHEN I CONTINUE MY CHILEAN ADVENTURE.

[peaceful instrumental music] ♪ ♪ >> announcer: TRAVELSCOPE IS MADE POSSIBLE BY DK EYEWITNESS TRAVEL GUIDES.

DK CITY AND COUNTRY GUIDES FEATURE EVOCATIVE PHOTOS, HOTEL AND DINING CHOICES, GUIDED WALKS, AND TRAVEL ITINERARIES.

DK EYEWITNESS TRAVEL GUIDES: THE GUIDES THAT SHOW YOU WHAT OTHERS ONLY TELL YOU.

>> Rosendo: THE ATACAMA IS ONE OF THE HIGHEST DESERTS ON THE EARTH AND THE DRIEST PLACE IN THE WORLD.

JOIN ME AS I CONTINUE MY CHILEAN ADVENTURE.

[soft experimental music] ♪ ♪ 780 MILES NORTH OF SANTIAGO, SAN PEDRO DE ATACAMA IS AN OASIS SURROUNDED BY THE STARK YET BEAUTIFUL ATACAMA DESERT.

WHILE THE CHURCH IN THE ANCIENT SQUARE DATES BACK TO 1641, MANY OF ITS 2,500 RESIDENTS CAN CLAIM A PRE-INCAN ANCESTRY.

THE GUSTAVO LE PAIGE ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM HOUSES MORE THAN 380,000 PRE-COLUMBIAN ARTIFACTS OF THE ATACAMEÑO CULTURE.

¿QUE TIENES?

>> MIRA, ACA TIENEN DE ESTAS.

>> TENEMOS DE TODO.

>> Rosendo: ¿TIENEN DE TODO?

HE HAS EVERYTHING.

WHAT KIND OF WOOL IS THIS?

>> ALPACA.

>> Rosendo: ALPACA?

>> IT'S ALWAYS THE SUN IN THE MIDDLE, REPRESENTING THE BIRDS, THE FROG, AND THE TURTLE, AND THIS IS LIKE THE WISDOM.

>> Rosendo: THE LUXURIOUS, ECO-FRIENDY TIERRA ATACAMA HOTEL AND SPA IS A CENTER FOR FORAYS INTO THE DESERT.

GUIDED EXCURSIONS STRIVE FOR MINIMUM IMPACT ON THE LAND, PLANTS, AND ANIMALS AND INVITE GUESTS TO DISCOVER A FASCINATING PIECE OF THE GREAT NORTH OF CHILE.

I'M WITH PAMELA ACOSTA WHO IS ONE OF THE GUIDES FROM TIERRA ATACAMA, THE HOTEL.

AND, PAMELA, WE'RE IN THE DRIEST SPOT ON EARTH.

>> YES.

>> Rosendo: TELL ME, HOW DID IT BECOME LIKE THAT, AND HAVE PEOPLE BEEN ABLE TO LIVE HERE ALL THAT TIME?

>> WE ARE IN ONE OF THE LITTLE AREAS THAT HAVE SOME VEGETATION AND THAT HAVE SOME HUMIDITY.

ON OUR RIGHT, WE HAVE THE PURITAMA RIVER, AND ON THE LEFT, WE HAVE THE PURIFICA RIVER.

>> Rosendo: THERE ACTUALLY ARE RIVERS HERE?

'CAUSE WHEN YOU THINK OF THE DESERT, THE DRIEST PLACE IN THE WORLD, YOU THINK NO WATER... >> NO RIVERS.

>> Rosendo: AND ONLY SAND.

BUT NO, THERE'S RIVERS.

THERE'S VEGETATION.

THOSE RIVERS, ARE THOSE THE REASON THAT SAN PEDRO EXISTS?

>> YES, DEFINITELY.

WHEN YOU WERE PASSING THROUGH THE AREA OF SAN PEDRO, IT GENERATES THE OASIS THAT WE HAVE NOWADAYS.

>> Rosendo: LET'S GO LOOK AT SOME CACTUS, WHICH YOU EXPECT TO HAVE AT A DESERT.

>> THEY GROWS VERY SLOWLY.

THEY GROWS MORE OR LESS 5 CENTIMETERS IN THE YEAR.

>> Rosendo: MY GOSH.

>> SO IMAGINE HOW OLD COULD BE THIS CACTUS TO HAVE THIS SIZE.

AND AS YOU CAN SEE, IT'S A VERY THICK CACTUS.

ACTUALLY, THE ROOF OF THE SAN PEDRO CHURCH, IT'S MADE WITH THIS SAME KIND OF CACTUS.

WHEN THEY DIED, THEY START TO BE DEHYDRATED, AND IT BECAME LIKE IN ANY TREE.

>> Rosendo: RIGHT, LIKE A WOOD.

>> IT'S INCREDIBLE TO SEE THEM GROWING IN A ROCK.

>> Rosendo: ABSOLUTELY.

>> IT'S NOT NECESSARY TO HAVE SOIL.

THERE ARE SOME LONG THORNS THAT WE USE FOR KNITTING NOWADAYS TO MAKE SOCKS AND GLOVES AND THINGS LIKE THAT.

>> Rosendo: I COULD SEE THAT, EVEN LOOKING AT THIS ONE, THAT IT COULD BE USED AS A NEEDLE.

>> AS A NEEDLE.

WELL, YOU HAVE TO, AS WELL, SEE THIS BUSH.

THIS IS A VERY TYPICAL BUSH FROM OUR REGION.

IT'S CALLED RICA RICA IN THE COMMON NAME.

LIKE, "DELICIOUS, DELICIOUS."

>> Rosendo: OH, DELICIOUS, DELICIOUS.

>> YES, AND THEN THE SMELL-- >> Rosendo: IT SMELLS, YEAH.

>> PLEASE SMELL IT.

>> Rosendo: OH, IT IS DELICIOUS.

>> IT'S DELICIOUS.

THE LATIN NAME IS-- >> Rosendo: VERY--IT'S LIKE SPEARMINT OR PEPPERMINT.

>> YES.

BUT IT'S AN EXCELLENT MEDICINE FOR GASTRITIS, WHEN YOU HAVE THE STOMACH ACID.

>> Rosendo: REALLY?

HOW DO YOU USE IT?

>> YOU MADE THE INFUSION WITH THESE TWO LITTLE PIECES.

YOU PUT IT IN A CUP WITH BOILED WATER.

YOU LEAVE IT THREE MINUTES, AND THEN YOU DRINK IT.

>> Rosendo: IT'S HOMEOPATHIC TREATMENT.

>> IT'S HOMEOPATHIC, YES.

>> Rosendo: GREAT.

PAMELA, ONE OF THE THINGS I'VE LEARNED FROM DOING OTHER SHOWS ON THE DESERT IS THAT ALTHOUGH IT LOOKS LIKE IT'S LIFELESS, IT IS NOT EVEN CLOSE TO BEING LIFELESS.

IT'S FILLED WITH LIFE AND CERTAINLY PLANT LIFE, BUT HOW ABOUT WILDLIFE HERE IN THE ATACAMA?

>> IT EXISTS, DEFINITELY.

WE HAVE HERE, FROM LITTLE RODENTS, LIKE THE EAR-Y MOUSE OR THE VISCACHA, WHICH IS SIMILAR TO CHINCHILLA.

AND AFTER THAT, WE HAVE ANOTHER BIGGER ANIMALS, LIKE MAMMALS.

WE HAVE ACTUALLY LIVING AT 3,000 UNTIL 4,000 METERS LOTS OF GUANACOS AND VICUÑAS.

BOTH ARE LIKE ANY LLAMA.

THE VICUÑA IS SMALLER.

THE GUANACO IS BIGGER.

>> Rosendo: PAMELA, FLAMINGOS?

I DIDN'T EXPECT FLAMINGOS IN THE DESERT.

>> HERE, IT'S FULL OF FLAMINGOS.

WE ARE VERY LUCKY TO HAVE THREE OF THE FIVE SPECIES OF FLAMINGOS THAT WE HAVE IN THE WORLD.

AND HERE, WE ARE ADMIRING AT LEAST TWO TYPES OF FLAMINGOS.

THE TOTALLY PINKS ONES ARE THE CHILEAN FLAMINGOS.

THE ONES THAT HAVE BLACK TAILS ARE THE ANDEAN FLAMINGOS.

THEY HAVE TO COME HERE ONLY IN THE SUMMER, THE END OF THE SUMMER, LIKE NOWADAYS WHICH IS AUTUMN, BECAUSE THESE LAGOONS AT 4,000 METERS-- LIKE 12,000 FEET HIGH-- ARE FROZEN IN WINTERTIME.

SO THE FLAMINGOS HAVE, LIKE, A MIGRATION THAT IS APPLIED TO THE ALTITUDE.

IN THE SUMMER, THEY GO TO THE HIGH, HIGH LAGOONS WHERE THEY CAN'T GO IN WINTER, AND THEN IN THE MIDDLE OF THE WINTER, THEY GENERALLY GO TO THE LOWER LAGOONS THAT ARE LOCATED IN THE ATACAMA SALT FLAT.

>> Rosendo: BUT THEY'RE STILL HERE IN THE ATACAMA?

>> YES.

YES.

>> Rosendo: 'KAY, 'CAUSE I'VE ONLY SEE FLAMINGOS IN, YOU KNOW, MARSHLAND ON THE EDGE OF THE MEDITERRANEAN OR... >> YES.

IN KENYA.

>> Rosendo: IN KENYA, YEAH.

YOU DON'T THINK OF IT AS WAY UP-- >> BUT IN SOUTH AMERICA, WE HAVE LOTS OF FLAMINGOS.

>> Rosendo: THE ABORIGINAL PEOPLE WHOSE DESCENDANTS STILL LIVE IN SETTLEMENTS LIKE MACHUCA SURVIVED THE AGES BY ADAPTING TO THE ENVIRONMENT AND THE TIMES.

WE'RE AT 13,000 FEET HERE.

>> YES.

>> Rosendo: THIS IS THE HIGHEST I'VE EVER BEEN.

I SEE THEY HAVE A CROSS IN THE MIDDLE OF THE CHURCHYARD HERE.

>> THAT IS A VERY, VERY SPECIAL CROSS... >> Rosendo: OH, YEAH?

>> BECAUSE, AS YOU CAN SEE, IT'S NOT A CROSS IN THE MIDDLE OF THE YARD; IT'S A CROSS THAT IS LOCATED SPECIFICALLY OVER THAT STRUCTURE THAT SYMBOLIZE THE THREE DIFFERENT LEVELS OF THE WORLD.

THE BASE ONE SYMBOLIZE ALL THE THINGS THAT COME FROM THE GROUND.

>> THEN IN THE SECOND LEVEL, WE HAVE ALL THE WORLD THAT SURROUND US, THE MAMMALS: YES, THE VICUÑAS, HUMANS, EVERYONE.

AND THEN IN THE THIRD LEVEL, IN THE LAST ONE, WE HAVE THE SKY LIFE, LIKE THE CONDOR, A SACRED ANIMAL, AND SEVERAL BIRDS AND, OF COURSE, OUR GODS.

>> Rosendo: AND THEN ON TOP OF THAT, THEY PLACED A CROSS.

>> YES.

>> Rosendo: SO THIS IS AN EXAMPLE OF WHERE THE TWO-- >> OF SYNCRETISM.

>> Rosendo: WHAT IS IT?

>> SYNCRETISM.

>> Rosendo: SYNCRETISM.

NOW, WHAT IS THAT?

>> THAT IS THIS MIXTURE, WHEN YOU CAN SEE THAT THE INDIAN, OR INDIGENOUS GROUPS, HAVE PRESERVED, HIDDEN UNDER THE CATHOLICISM.

>> Rosendo: THEY WERE ABLE TO KEEP THEIR BELIEFS BUT KIND OF HIDE IT UNDER THE BELIEFS, THE CHRISTIAN BELIEF.

>> THIS REPRESENT OUR CONTACT WITH MOTHER EARTH.

>> Rosendo: BEAUTIFUL.

>> DE LLAMA.

>> Rosendo: [speaking Spanish] >> Rosendo: 7,000 LOS DOS.

>> SI.

>> Rosendo: OKAY.

>> Rosendo: SON-- THEY'RE WARM.

ABRIGADOS, YEAH.

>> Rosendo: THE MITTENS ARE GREAT, AND THEY LOOK LIKE THEY'RE WONDERFULLY MADE TOO.

LOOK AT THESE-- LOOK AT THESE SOCKS.

NOW, THESE WILL KEEP YOU NICE AND WARM, HUH?

AND, OF COURSE, THE OTHER THING YOU'RE DOING BY PURCHASING STUFF HERE IS, YOU'RE HELPING THE VILLAGE AS WELL, WHICH IS AT LEAST AS IMPORTANT AS ENDING UP WITH SOMETHING THAT IS A NICE SOUVENIR OF THE AREA.

GRACIAS, SEÑORA.

>> GRACIAS A USTED.

>> Rosendo: MUCHAS GRACIAS.

THE ATACAMEÑOS OF TODAY HEARKEN BACK TO THEIR NOMADIC ANCESTORS WHO FIRST CAME TO THE REGION 11,000 YEARS AGO AND USED THE VERY ROCKS AS THEIR SHELTER.

WHEN WAS THIS DONE?

>> THIS WAS-- >> Rosendo: AND BY WHO?

>> THIS IS A--KIND OF A REALLY INTERESTING PLACE.

IT'S KIND OF A BIG FORTRESS.

>> Rosendo: SO IT WAS LIKE A REST STOP?

>> IT'S A REST STOP, RIGHT.

IT'S LIKE A REST AREA IN THE ROAD, YOU KNOW?

>> Rosendo: SO THE FIRST PEOPLE THAT CAME THROUGH HERE, LET'S SAY, 8,000 YEARS AGO, THEY WERE FOLLOWING THE LLAMAS, WERE THEY, FOR--TO HUNT THEM, IN A WAY, RIGHT?

>> EXACTLY.

YES.

>> Rosendo: AND THEN EVENTUALLY, THEY DOMESTICATED THEM?

>> THEN THEY DOMESTICATE, LIKE YOU SAY, YEAH.

AND THEN THEY USED THE LLAMAS, AND THEY GROW UP A REALLY GOOD AND CLOSE RELATIONSHIP WITH THE LLAMAS.

>> Rosendo: SO THIS WAS THE CORRAL.

>> YEAH.

SO BASICALLY-- >> Rosendo: I CAN SEE THE WALLS.

BUT HOW DO YOU KNOW THEY ACTUALLY KEPT THE ANIMALS HERE?

>> WELL, LOOK AT THIS.

LOOK AT THIS, FOR EXAMPLE.

WE CAN MOVE A LITTLE HERE, YOU KNOW, AND IT'S PLENTY OF EXCREMENT OF ANIMALS, YOU KNOW, AND IT'S ALL OVER AROUND HERE.

>> Rosendo: SO THIS KEPT THE ANIMALS SAFE.

>> RIGHT.

>> Rosendo: DO WE HAVE ANY OTHER INTERESTING PETROGLYPHS HERE?

>> WELL, WE GOT A LOT OF THINGS.

SO LOOK AT THIS, FOR EXAMPLE.

OVER THERE, JOSEPH, I CAN SHOW YOU-- >> Rosendo: UP THERE ON THE CLIFF?

>> UP THERE, YEAH.

>> Rosendo: SURE, LET'S GO UP.

>> THERE'S A LOT OF BIG, BIG, BIG FIGURES.

>> Rosendo: SO THIS BECOMES A PETROGLYPH HIKING TRIP?

>> RIGHT, IT'S A COMBINATION BETWEEN HIKE AND ARCHAEOLOGICAL STUFF TOO.

>> Rosendo: GREAT.

>> WELL... >> Rosendo: SEE, WHERE IS IT?

>> THERE WE GO.

IT'S THAT ONE.

>> Rosendo: OH, YEAH.

HERE IT IS.

I SEE IT.

>> YEAH, SO... >> Rosendo: THERE'S HIS HEAD.

>> IS THERE, THE HEAD.

ALL THE HEAD, OVER THERE.

ALL THE NECK, YOU KNOW?

>> Rosendo: SEE HIS FEET.

>> AND THEN TWO FEET, YOU KNOW; TWO LEGS; ALL THE BODY, THE BELLY.

>> Rosendo: ALL RIGHT.

>> THE BELLY'S HERE.

>> Rosendo: YEAH, IT'S A BIG ONE.

>> IT'S A BIG ONE, YEAH.

>> Rosendo: MAYBE EVEN PREGNANT.

>> MAYBE PREGNANT, YES.

>> Rosendo: YEAH, YEAH.

HOW LONG AGO WOULD THIS FIGURE-- >> WELL, COULD BE 2,000 YEARS OLD.

>> Rosendo: 2,000 YEARS.

WHAT ARE YOU SHOWING ME NOW?

>> LOOK AT THIS.

THIS IS KIND OF A WEIRD FIGURE FOR THIS AREA.

WE ARE IN ONE OF THE DRIEST DESERT OF THE WORLD, AND THIS IS A GUY--THIS IS ANIMAL... >> Rosendo: LOOKS LIKE A MONKEY.

>> FROM THE JUNGLE... >> Rosendo: YEAH.

>> IN THE SIDE OF BOLIVIA RIGHT NOW OR BRAZIL RIGHT NOW, SO IS NOT WEIRD?

>> Rosendo: THAT IS VERY WEIRD.

SO EITHER THE PERSON WHO DID THIS EITHER CAME FROM THAT AREA OR HAD BEEN TO THAT AREA AND COME BACK.

>> WELL, WE DON'T KNOW.

WE GOT SOME IDEAS: MAYBE THEY GO TO THAT AREA AND THEY COMMERCIALIZE WITH THESE PEOPLE, AND THEN THEY'RE COMING BACK, AND THEY'RE COMING BACK WITH THE IDEA OF THIS ANIMAL AND WITH THE IMPRESSION OF THIS ANIMAL, BUT IT WAS SO WEIRD FOR THOSE PEOPLE; SO THEY JUST DECIDED TO PRINT IT IN THIS ROCK.

>> Rosendo: SURE.

BEAUTIFUL.

ABSOLUTELY.

FROM PREHISTORIC ROCK CARVINGS, WE HEAD TO THE COLONIAL TOWN OF TOCONAO, NAMED FOR THE LOCAL STONE AND NOTED FOR ITS HANDMADE CRAFTS.

WE'VE DONE AN EXCURSION OUT TO THE LITTLE SMALL VILLAGE OF TOCONAO.

AND ONE OF THE LANDMARKS OF THE TOWN IS THEIR BELL TOWER WHICH WAS BUILT HERE BY THE SPANISH BACK IN 1750, AND IT STILL REMAINS.

THE CHURCH BEHIND IT HAS BEEN CHANGED MANY TIMES IN THE COURSE OF FIRE AND EARTHQUAKE, BUT THE TOWER STILL REMAINS.

AND RIGHT AROUND THE CENTER OF TOWN, THERE ARE THE SMALL SHOPS WITH HANDCRAFTED GOODS, AND IN SOME OF THEM, THERE ARE PEOPLE ACTUALLY CREATING THEM.

AND THAT'S REALLY WHAT MAKES IT SPECIAL HERE.

THESE ARE ALL HAND DONE.

[speaking Spanish] >> [chuckles] ¿MUCHOS AÑOS?

>> Rosendo: OH, SO THIS IS A NATURAL COLOR.

SHE'S MAKING--SHE'S USING LLAMA WOOL NOW, AND THIS IS THE NATURAL LLAMA COLOR.

>> [speaking Spanish] >> Rosendo: SHE GETS 'EM TO FOLLOW HER.

>> Rosendo: SHE USES-- >> SE HACEN BUFANDA Y CHALES.

>> Rosendo: SO SHE USES THE-- THEIR WOOL TO MAKE GLOVES AND MANY, MANY COSAS AQUI, AND-- OH!

SEE, THEY LET YOU-- SON BUENOS CUANDO ESTAN COMIENDO.

THEY'RE GOOD WHEN THEY'RE EATING, AH?

[speaking Spanish] >> ESA ES UNA CINTA ROJA QUE YO LE PONGO A LOS ANIMALES PORQUE--PARA QUE NO LE HAGAN OJO, QUE ALGUNAS PERSONAS TIENEN LA MIRADA MUY FUERTE.

>> Rosendo: MM-HMM.

>> ENTONCES ALGUNAS PERSONAS LE HACEN OJO A LOS ANIMALES O A LOS BEBES.

>> Rosendo: OH, REALLY?

SHE SAYS SHE PUT THESE-- >> ENTONCES LE PONGO ESTA CINTA ROJA.

>> Rosendo: SHE PUTS THIS RIBBON ON THE LLAMAS SO THAT SOMEONE WON'T GIVE THEM THE EVIL EYE, BECAUSE SOME PEOPLE HAVE A VERY STRONG EVIL EYE THAT THEY CAN GIVE TO LLAMAS AND TO BABIES TOO.

[laughs] [speaking Spanish] >> ESTO SE-- >> Rosendo: ESTE.

>> SE CORTA EL MEMBRILLO, SE PICA EN CUADRITOS Y SE PONE A COCER EN AGUA HIRVIENDO.

>> Rosendo: OH, OKAY.

>> Y SE ECHA AZUCAR Y CANELA Y AHI QUEDA EL JUGO.

>> Rosendo: OKAY, THIS IS THE JUICE THAT'S MADE WITH SUGAR AND CANELA, I THINK.

IT SOUNDS LIKE "CINNAMON," AND THEY'RE CUT INTO PORTIONS AND SOAKED IN THE-- IN AGUA... >> HIRVIENDO.

>> Rosendo: HIRVIENDO.

BOILING.

OKAY, CAN WE HAVE SO-- PODEMOS-- GRACIAS.

[speaking Spanish] >> Rosendo: MUCHO, GRACIAS.

MMM.

>> Rosendo: PUT A LITTLE BIT TO THE EARTH.

OH, OKAY.

THAT'S A VERY NICE TRADITION.

THE NATIVE CONNECTION TO MOTHER EARTH IS NATURAL.

HER POWER IS EVIDENT WHEREVER YOU LOOK.

FROM THE TIERRA ATACAMA, YOU CAN SEE EIGHT VOLCANOES, ONE STILL ACTIVE, AND RIDE HORSES THROUGH SALT MOUNTAINS TO THE VALLEY OF THE MOON.

HOLA, ¿COMO ESTA?

>> BUENAS.

>> Rosendo: BUENAS.

>> ¿BIEN?

>> Rosendo: SI, SI.

SOSAL IS A GOOD HORSE AND IS GONNA TAKE US INTO THE ANDES TOGETHER.

WE GOT A BEAUTIFUL HORSE.

LE GUSTA CORRER.

>> [laughs] LE GUSTA.

>> Rosendo: THIS IS BEAUTIFUL ALL THROUGH HERE.

I LOVE HORSEBACK RIDING.

THERE'S SOMETHING ABOUT GOING OUT INTO NATURE ON TOP OF A HORSE.

OF COURSE, IT'S EASIER THAN WALKING, BUT, ALSO, THEY SEEM TO BE SO MUCH A PART OF THE LAND, SO YOU GET TO BE A PART OF IT TOO.

WHAT A BEAUTIFUL PLACE.

LOOK AT THIS.

IT'S LIKE OTHERWORLDLY, MOONSCAPE.

WOW.

¿AQUI?

THERE'S REALLY ABSOLUTE SILENCE HERE.

ALL YOU HEAR ARE THE HORSES.

THIS IS OUR REST STOP IN THE MIDDLE OF THE RIDE, AND IT JUST LOOKS LIKE ANOTHER WORLD BACK HERE.

YOU WOULD NEVER KNOW IT WAS HERE UNTIL YOU TAKE THE RIDE TO GET HERE.

[soft instrumental music] ♪ ♪ THE SNOWCAPPED LICANCABUR VOLCANO IS A SILENT TESTAMENT TO THE EARTH'S VIOLENT PAST.

BUT THE ATACAMA HAS PLACES WHERE THAT PAST IS STILL PRESENT.

WE LEFT TIERRA ATACAMA AT 4:00 IN THE MORNING IN ORDER TO TAKE THE ROAD TO THE GEYSERS AND GET THERE IN TIME FOR SUNRISE.

AND WE'VE BEEN RIDING ON A FAIRLY BUMPY ROAD, IN FACT, VERY BUMPY ROAD.

AND NOW WE HAVE A LITTLE ADDITIONAL INCIDENT WHERE ONE OF THE BUSES IN THE CARAVAN OF BUSES THAT HAVE BEEN TAKING THIS ROAD TO THE GEYSERS HAS GONE OFF THE ROAD, AND SO WE'RE GONNA TRY AND GET AROUND AND GET OUT TO THE GEYSERS.

IT'S AN ARDUOUS TRIP HERE, BUT IT'S, AS THEY SAY IN CHILE, "VALE LA PENA," "IT'S WORTH THE EFFORT," IF WE GET THERE.

THERE'S-- [chuckles] BUSLOAD OF PEOPLE OUT IN THE COLD.

[soft instrumental music] ♪ ♪ AT THE END OF THE ROAD, WE'RE AT THE TATIO GEOTHERMAL AREA, AND THERE ARE OVER 200 GEYSERS HERE THAT YOU CAN SEE.

IT'S VERY COLD.

IT'S ABOUT 18 DEGREES.

THAT'S WHY WE HAD SUCH A CLOUD OF SMOKE, AND THE MAGMA IS VERY CLOSE TO THE SURFACE HERE, SO WHEN THE WATER FROM THE SNOWMELT COMES INTO THIS AREA, HITS THAT MAGMA, AND WE GET GEYSERS GALORE.

IT'S ABSOLUTELY BEAUTIFUL.

MARCELO AND I ARE GOING TO TAKE A WALK THROUGH THE SMOKE ALONG THIS CIRCUIT THAT IS HERE FOR THE TOURISTS TO BE ABLE TO COME OUT AND SEE THIS AMAZING NATURAL SIGHT.

>> IT'S QUITE IMPRESSIVE.

YOU KNOW WHAT IS IMPRESSIVE ABOUT THESE GEYSERS?

JUST--IT'S--IT'S LIKE A TRIP TO THE PAST.

>> Rosendo: TRIP TO THE PAST.

>> TRIP TO THE BEGINNING OF THE WORLD.

SO LOOK AT THIS PLACE, AND YOU CAN IMAGINE HOW WAS THE BEGINNING OF THE HISTORY OF THE EARTH.

>> Rosendo: NOW, THERE ARE HOT SPRINGS IN THE AREA, BUT WE WOULDN'T WANT TO TRY ANY OF THESE.

>> NO, WE-- >> Rosendo: NO, THESE ARE WHAT-- >> THEY ARE REALLY HOT.

>> Rosendo: THEY ARE VERY, VERY HOT.

>> 180, OR SOMETHING LIKE THAT, FAHRENHEIT, SO-- >> Rosendo: LET'S GO INTO HERE, AND ACTUALLY LOOK AT ONE OF THESE.

IT'S BUBBLING UP NOW, SO THIS WOULD LIKE--AS IF IT WAS SPOUTING LIKE OLD FAITHFUL, AND THEN IT SETTLES BACK DOWN.

>> AND THEN RELAX AGAIN; ALL THE POWERFUL OF THE GEYSERS-- >> Rosendo: ALMOST DISAPPEARS.

>> RIGHT.

>> Rosendo: A BUBBLE-- JUST A GENTLE BUBBLE.

>> AND PRETTY SURE--I'M PRETTY SURE COMING UP AGAIN, THIS POWERFUL-- >> Rosendo: LIKE CLOCKWORK, AS THEY SAY; HERE IT GOES.

SO IT IS OUR OLD FAITHFUL; IT'S JUST NOT AS--IT DOESN'T JUST GO AS HIGH AS OURS DOES IN YELLOWSTONE.

>> YES.

>> Rosendo: THERE IT IS.

IT'S BUILDING UP AGAIN.

IT'S STEAMING, SO TO SPEAK, AND BUBBLING UP HIGH.

WHAT'S NICE ABOUT BEING HERE IN THE GEYSER AREA, OR THE GEOTHERMAL AREA, IS THAT YOU ARE REALLY SURROUNDED BY ALL THESE WONDERFUL PHENOMENA, WHETHER IT'S LITTLE POTHOLES, LIKE THAT ONE, OR A LITTLE BIGGER ONES, LIKE THIS ONE, AND--OR THERE ARE SPOUTING GEYSERS.

AND YOU CAN GET A LOT CLOSER HERE, OBVIOUSLY, THAN YOU CAN IN SOME PARTS OF THE WORLD, LIKE AT YELLOWSTONE.

IT'S UP TO YOU TO KEEP A SAFE DISTANCE AND TO DETERMINE WHAT THAT SAFE DISTANCE IS.

MARCELO, THIS IS A BEAUTIFUL POOL HERE.

>> YEAH.

>> Rosendo: BUT, YOU KNOW, IT ALSO LOOKS A LITTLE BIT DANGEROUS... >> YEAH.

>> Rosendo: 'CAUSE I THINK, IF YOU GOT--YOU FELL INTO THERE, IT'D BE HARD TO GET OUT.

>> I THINK IT'S-- >> Rosendo: AND THE WATER IS, AHH, HOT.

>> REALLY HOT, YES.

AND IT LOOKS KIND OF DIFFERENT LIKE THE OTHER WATER.

GOT A LOT OF MUD.

GOT A LOT OF MUD IN ALL THE BORDER, AND IT'S DIFFERENT, THE COLOR TOO.

AND IT LOOKS MORE MINERALIZED.

AND WITH A LOT OF INFLUENCE OF THESE ALGAES AROUND THIS GEYSER, SO... >> Rosendo: WHAT'S A GOOD PLACE TO GET A LOOK AT THE MUD?

OVER HERE?

>> YEAH, THAT PLACE IS KIND OF GOOD TOO.

>> Rosendo: OKAY.

THIS HAS MUCH MORE SULFUR TO IT.

THERE'S MUD BUBBLING UP.

AND, LIKE I SAY, THIS WOULD MAKE A GREAT MUD BATH IF THE WATER WASN'T 158 DEGREES.

>> EXACTLY.

YOU DO THIS QUICKLY.

WE'RE GONNA HAVE SOME HOT CHOCOLATE FOR OUR BREAKFAST.

>> Rosendo: YOU JUST STUCK IT RIGHT IN THE GEYSER?

>> YES, AND LEAVE THERE JUST A COUPLE OF MINUTES, AND LOOK AT THAT.

>> Rosendo: YOU COULD PROBABLY HAVE COOKED HAM AND EGGS FOR US HERE.

I DIDN'T THINK OF THAT.

>> I CAN DO THAT TOO.

>> Rosendo: SALUD.

OH, MAN, THAT REALLY HITS THE SPOT.

YEAH, THAT'S PERFECT.

THAT'S PERFECT.

"A TRIP TAKES US," SAID JOHN STEINBECK, AND, INDEED, WHEN WE BEGIN A TRIP, YOU NEVER KNOW WHERE IT WILL LEAD US.

MY CHILEAN JOURNEY LED ME TO THE CAPITAL OF SANTIAGO; TO THE TOWERING ANDES AND THE LUSH VINEYARDS OF THE CASABLANCA AND MAIPO VALLEYS; TO THE COLORFUL NEIGHBORHOODS OF VALPARAISO; TO THE DRIEST PLACE ON EARTH, THE ATACAMA DESERT.

THERE WERE A FEW CHALLENGES AND A FEW BUMPS ALONG THE ROAD.

BUT AS THEY SAY IN CHILE, "VALE LA PENA," "IT'S WORTH THE EFFORT," BECAUSE WHEREVER THE ROAD TAKES US, IT ALWAYS BRINGS US TO A BETTER UNDERSTANDING OF OURSELVES AND THE WORLD AROUND US.

UNTIL OUR NEXT JOURNEY, THIS IS JOSEPH ROSENDO REMINDING YOU OF THE WORDS OF MARK TWAIN: "TRAVEL IS FATAL TO PREJUDICE, BIGOTRY, AND NARROW-MINDEDNESS."

HAPPY TRAVELING.

>> announcer: TRAVELSCOPE IS MADE POSSIBLE BY DK EYEWITNESS TRAVEL GUIDES.

DK CITY AND COUNTRY GUIDES FEATURE EVOCATIVE PHOTOS, HOTEL AND DINING CHOICES, GUIDED WALKS, AND TRAVEL ITINERARIES.

DK EYEWITNESS TRAVEL GUIDES: THE GUIDES THAT SHOW YOU WHAT OTHERS ONLY TELL YOU.

TO ORDER A DVD OF TODAY'S SHOW OR ANY OF JOSEPH'S TRAVELSCOPE ADVENTURES, VISIT: OR CALL: VISIT US AT TRAVELSCOPE.NET TO LEARN MORE ABOUT TRAVELSCOPE AND TO JOIN JOSEPH'S WORLDWIDE ADVENTURES ON HIS BLOG.

KEEP IN TOUCH WITH US: OR EMAIL US AT: >> Rosendo: JOIN ME NEXT TIME ON TRAVELSCOPE, WHEN I TRAVEL THE MANY ROADS TO ADVENTURE IN WEST VIRGINIA'S NEW RIVER GORGE COUNTRY.

[soft instrumental music] ♪ ♪ I HIGHLY RECOMMEND IT, BUT YOU MIGHT REMEMBER TO BRING YOUR BATHING SUIT.