

Curious Braga
Season 5 Episode 509 | 28m 36sVideo has Closed Captions
Bom Jesus do Monte Sanctuary, Guimarães Castle, Braga Cathedral, Old Rooster Legend
Who was born in Guimarães Castle and founded a nation? What are the curious symbols all over the Torre de Menagem? Where can you find a beautifully blue Baroque palace? Why are there about 600 steps, 5 levels & so, so many zigzags leading up to Bom Jesus do Monte Sanctuary? When was Braga Cathedral built, and what did the Romans do here? How did a rooster come to be a symbol of Portugal?
Curious Traveler is presented by your local public television station.
Distributed nationally by American Public Television

Curious Braga
Season 5 Episode 509 | 28m 36sVideo has Closed Captions
Who was born in Guimarães Castle and founded a nation? What are the curious symbols all over the Torre de Menagem? Where can you find a beautifully blue Baroque palace? Why are there about 600 steps, 5 levels & so, so many zigzags leading up to Bom Jesus do Monte Sanctuary? When was Braga Cathedral built, and what did the Romans do here? How did a rooster come to be a symbol of Portugal?
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Learn Moreabout PBS online sponsorship- One is a UNESCO World Heritage Site in the cradle of its nation.
The other is a medieval treasure full of Manueline and Baroque beauty.
It is time to get curious about Braga and Guimaraes, Portugal.
(bright upbeat music) (bright cheerful music) - [Christine Voice Over] "Curious Traveler" is made possible by the following.
(lively upbeat music) - [Narrator] At Regent Seven Seas Cruises We believe that personal space is essential to the luxury travel experience.
(lively upbeat music) With no more than 732 guests our ships allow you to explore the world and discover the freedom of having space at sea.
- [Sponsor] Over 300 tours across all seven continents, over 40 years of serving travelers you can experience effortless, fun vacations and authentic experiences with GET.
GETours.com.
- [Narrator] Windstar Cruises intimate, private yacht style cruises to the Mediterranean, Caribbean, Tahiti, and more.
We look forward to seeing you on board.
WindstarCruises.com.
(lively upbeat music) - [Sponsor] When you travel with us, you are not the typical tourist.
(upbeat orchestral music) - There's a town in the north of Portugal known for its exquisite Manueline style.
It's many, many beautiful churches and 2,000 years of history.
Now, if only I could remember its name.
(gentle orchestral music) - [Christine Voice Over] We are getting curious about Braga with a side trip to Guimarães, two cities that together tell the history of Portugal.
So, here's what I'm curious about in Braga and Guimarães.
Who built a church on top of a mountain with five levels, about 600 steps, and so, so many zigzags?
What do a pair of pants have to do with the name Braga?
Where can you find a beautifully blue Baroque palace and these curious symbols?
(gentle orchestral music) When was Portugal founded?
And what does this castle have to do with it?
And how did a rooster become a symbol of a city?
It is time to get curious about Braga and Guimarães.
(upbeat orchestral music) We begin our curious exploration in Braga, the oldest city in Portugal in search of history and beauty.
- This beautiful Baroque town is known for two things, churches and color.
Right where I'm standing here you can see all the beautiful blues and yellows and reds and greens of those famous Portuguese tiles.
And just a couple of blocks on either side of me it is not unusual to come across a dozen different churches.
And when those churches ring their churches bells the effect is simply magical.
(church bells clanging) - [Christine Voice Over] Oh, yes, lots of churches around here, but why?
Well, because Braga was the center of Christianity for ancient Galicia.
Then in the Middle Ages, it was the seat of Portugal's archbishops.
So it's easy to see why Braga's nickname is the Rome of Portugal.
(melodious cathedral music) But before all these beautiful churches were here Braga had a different name all together.
Bracara meaning the city of pants.
Why?
Well, Braga's founders were from the ancient Celtic, Callaeci Bracari tribe and bracari means broken as in a tunic, broken in two to form pants.
(gentle upbeat music) I guess those ancient Bracari were fashion trendsetters of their day.
(gentle upbeat music) After the Celts, the Romans take over Braga but they were probably still wearing their tunics.
(gentle upbeat music) - Braga used to be known as Bracara Augusta by the Romans who liked the place so much because they had five strategic military roads that all intersected right here.
So they found Braga to be the perfect meeting place.
And it is fitting that this is still a meeting place today and a very colorful one, Praça da Republica.
- [Christine Voice Over] More than 2,000 years ago Bracara Augusta taking the name Bracara and adding Augusta for Roman Emperor Caesar Augustus was the capital of that Roman province of Gallaecia.
And Gallaecia, of course, got its name from that Callaici or Callaeci tribe.
And today here at Praça da Republica once the center of that great Roman province this spot is still the center of town.
But no Roman soldiers planning their next strategic conquest or anything just plenty of happy locals planning their next strategic leisurely lunch.
In the Middle Ages, Praça da Republica was surrounded by defensive walls which were connected to Braga Castle.
The castle no longer stands but you can see it on the city crest and on another historic spot just around the corner from Praça da Republica.
(bright upbeat music) Here in this cozy little courtyard with a fountain called Chafariz do Castelos, the fountain of the castle, look closely and you will see six castles on the fountain.
(bright upbeat music) And I also know where to find a bit of the old city walls with some curious symbols on them.
- In the 14th century, a giant medieval wall used to encircle the town.
But as the town grew, the wall had to be removed to make more space.
Fortunately, some of those original stones were preserved and are now incorporated into other buildings.
Within that wall there used to be six towers and this giant one still remains called Torre de Menagem.
Now, it's the height of the tower that makes it such an attraction and such a historic treasure but that is not what makes it so curious.
If you look really closely here, you'll see some very interesting mysterious inscriptions.
Are they cuneiform?
Are they hieroglyphs?
Is it something written by aliens?
Nope, it was actually just the stamps of the individual construction workers so their bricks could be counted up and they could get paid.
(gentle upbeat music) - [Christine Voice Over] Just beside the tower are some more curious symbols.
This is the shield of Portugal with five dots representing the five wounds of Christ.
It is based on the coat of arms of the medieval Portuguese Kingdom.
This shield and these symbols are so important.
To this day, you can find them on the Portuguese flag.
(gentle upbeat music) Next, there's another symbol of Portugal that doesn't date back quite so far, but it sure is pretty.
(gentle upbeat music) - Tucked away in a secluded little corner in between some very modern buildings is this big blue beauty.
This is the Raio Palace and it was built in the 18th century in this gorgeous Baroque style.
It of course, is absolutely covered from head to toe in those beautiful blue Portuguese tiles.
Now, to kind of give you an idea of how many tiles are on there each tile is only about the size of my hand.
So there are hundreds upon hundreds upon hundreds there.
By the way, this tiny little cottage was built for just one family and I'm going to guess that very lucky family happened to like the color blue because not only are the tiles blue but also the balconies and those big blue doors.
- [Christine Voice Over] The Palácio do Raio was built during reign of King John V in the 18th century.
The design is a wonderfully preserved example of Baroque architecture mixed with the azulejos, those tiny tiles that Portugal is known for.
This unique mix is called the Baroque azulejo style named for King John.
(gentle upbeat music) In the 19th century, this street was opened up so that all could see the beauty of its facade.
And in 1956, the palace was designated an historic site as one of the most notable buildings of civil architecture in all of Braga.
(gentle upbeat music) Next we visit what is perhaps the most important building in Braga, maybe even in all of Portugal, Braga Cathedral.
(gentle upbeat music) - This is the east side of Braga Cathedral built in the 11th and 12th centuries.
It is not just the oldest cathedral here in Braga but the oldest cathedral in all of Portugal.
And it is full of wonderful curiosities but this one here embedded into the wall might be the best.
If you look really closely, you can kind of make out words even though it's written in Latin.
You can see Isis, you can see sacred, and you can see Rome.
Now Isis, of course, was a goddess in Egypt but Romans kind of adopted her and took her as their own.
So, historians believe that on this spot well before it was a church it was in fact a Roman temple to Isis.
- [Christine Voice Over] How cool is that?
(gentle upbeat music) Many centuries after that Roman temple a moreish mosque was built on the same sacred spot.
And then in 1070, the earliest version of Braga Cathedral is built here.
(gentle upbeat music) That makes it the oldest cathedral in all of Portugal.
In fact, Portugal wasn't even founded until 1143 so the cathedral is older than the country itself.
(gentle upbeat music) So it's easy to see why Braga Cathedral is lovingly referred to as the jewel of the city.
(gentle upbeat music) Within the cathedral are nine centuries of art and history and one of the most impressive areas is way up high.
- This is one of the most beautiful areas of the cathedral, the high choir, all decked out in beautiful Baroque gold because as we know with Baroque more is always more.
So many beautiful elements to discover up here beginning at the back.
Just above the bishop's chair, you will see a clock a really big golden clock.
It says three o'clock, but it's not three o'clock right now.
But don't worry the clock isn't broken this clock is permanently set at three o'clock because that is the exact time of Christ's death.
Just below the clock you will see two towers.
Those are symbols of Braga because of the medieval wall and the medieval towers that used to encircle the town.
And here in this center is this beautiful gilded sculpture but it's not actually a sculpture it's a lectern, a very pretty one.
And look at where the congregation gets to sit.
Again, more of that broke gold everywhere.
And each and every seat is crowned by a very important Christian symbol.
This is the shell which symbolizes baptism.
And last but not least, if you look closely you can see some of the names of the current members of the church today.
(gentle upbeat music) - [Christine Voice Over] But of course, back in 11th century the church would not have looked like this.
(gentle upbeat music) Each time period brought its own architectural and artistic style from Romanesque to Gothic to Manueline to Baroque.
(gentle upbeat music) - Now after all of this gilded flourish of Baroque style up here, look at the simplicity of the rest of the church down there.
If you take a look at those beautiful soaring stone arches they might look a little bit simple but in fact, those are some of the most important elements of the cathedral because those are part of the original medieval cathedral.
(gentle upbeat music) Our next stop is yet another church but this one I promise is like none you've ever seen and to reach it you have to earn it because it's located on top of a mountain overlooking the city of Braga.
- There are two ways to get to the top of Bom Jesus.
You could walk nearly 600 steps or you could take a quaint and comfortable ride on the funicular.
Ah, you can see which option I chose.
- [Christine Voice Over] Bom Jesus is a sanctuary consisting of a church and smaller chapels, gardens, sculptures, and a whole lot of stairs full of allegories.
Bom simply means good or holy.
And oh my goodness, is the Bom Jesus sanctuary way up here on the slopes of Mount Espinho.
(gentle upbeat music) - 600 steps to the top and 600 years to develop.
The sanctuary of Bom Jesus carries on the tradition of Sacri Monti or building a sacred site on top of a mountain, and it's church, it's religious buildings, all these gardens, and all those steps is meant to evoke a little bit of a feeling of Jerusalem right here in Portugal.
- [Christine Voice Over] This idea of sacred mountains is practiced in many religions not just Christianity and in many mythologies too.
Just think of Zeus in his Mount Olympus or Odin and his Asgard.
In Catholicism, creating sacred spaces on a mountaintop was promoted in the 16th century as a reaction to the Protestant reformation and the heavenly Bom Jesus came out of that movement.
This Baroque beauty was built between 1784 and 1811.
And from up here, there are breathtaking views of Braga below after you've caught your breath that is.
Joining us to answer my curious questions is local guide Monica.
- When I knew that we were coming here like maybe a lot of visitors, a lot of travel writers or a lot of tourists, I looked online and I said, oh, that's amazing.
Now that I'm here, I'm goin this is amazing.
'cause it's more than just a church.
- This is more than a church.
Even if beginning the idea was to convert it like you are coming from the bottom you do it like the pilgrims should do.
- [Christine Voice Over] Oh, yes, and true pilgrims have to suffer a bit as they make their way to churches and holy sites around the world.
Often, not just climbing the steps but taking the last few steps on their knees.
- What I loved going up, it seems to be five sections or five markers along the staircase.
Five for very specific reason.
Why are there five?
- The five, it represents the crucifixion of Jesus Christ.
We have the cross with a five points of water.
And then, we have another five fountains that represents the five sense.
- [Christine Voice Over] These are the fountains of the five senses; vision, hearing, smell, taste, touch.
These sensory steps were intentionally designed in this eye-catching zigzag pattern.
And today that pattern forces religious pilgrims or just plain old tourists to slow down, be thoughtful, and take it all in.
- And most importantly, not just the beauty, not just the symbolism that we've experienced we wanna let people know that if you take the funicular instead of walking up the steps, it's okay.
- What I recommend always is, take the funicular, go up and then walk back down and enjoy it as well.
- Maybe two people that we know have done exactly that but we're not gonna tell.
We're not gonna tell.
(bright upbeat music) - [Christine Voice Over] Next we travel south from Braga to Guimarães, the city where Portugal began.
(bright upbeat music) The historic center of Guimarães is UNESCO World Heritage Site because of its well preserved architecture that tells its history from medieval half-timbered houses to the uniquely Portuguese Manueline Gothic touches like here on this Gothic shrine commemorating the 1340 Battle of Salado.
- Guimarães is known as the cradle of the nation because it was once the capital of the kingdom back in the 12th century and also because the very first king of Portugal was born right here.
And fortunately for us today much of the medieval town still remains so we can wander the beautiful Old Town and experience all that history.
(bright upbeat music) - [Christine Voice Over] In the town center is Largo da Oliveira named for a centuries-old olive tree and legend.
The legend says, "A dead olive tree spring back to life once a cross was hung upon it."
And guess what?
This church is also named for that olive tree, the Church of Our Lady of Oliveira.
(bright upbeat music) Next we visit one of the most important historic sites in all of Portugal with treasures both inside and out.
- This is the amazing Ducal Palace built in the 15th century for the royal family of Portugal, the Braganza family, who ruled over their country for centuries.
(upbeat orchestral music) - [Christine Voice Over] And this is where those Dukes lived sort of.
What you see today is not exactly the swanky style those early Dukes enjoyed.
The original palace was much simpler.
And believe it or not, at one point some of the palaces stones were removed just to use on other building projects.
Today, these stylish rooms feature treasures from Portugal former colonies; India, Africa, and Far East.
(upbeat orchestral music) There are also stunning Flemish and French tapestries here.
(upbeat orchestral music) Just a few steps away from the Ducal Palace we go back in time from a 15th century palace to a 10th century castle which is a big reason why Guimarães is the cradle of the nation of Portugal.
- This is Guimarães Castle a mighty fortress within the city walls.
It is forever linked with the founding of Portugal itself.
Why?
Well, because according to legend somebody pretty important was born here, the very first king of Portugal, King Afonso.
When he grew up he led a rebellion, signed the Treaty of Zamora, and Portugal was born.
Afonso I secured Portugal's independence from León in 1139.
Then he conquered Lisbon and spread the Kingdom of Portugal and secured the foundations for a new country.
Guimarães Castle started as a small fortress to protect the residents from the Moors and from Norsemen.
Over the centuries changes were made including adding these two towers during the 14th and 15th centuries.
And finally, in the 20th century Guimarães Castle was declared a national monument.
(gentle upbeat music) Next from kings and castles to a few more churches and a curious symbol of Portugal.
Guimarães like Braga has long been a Catholic city so it is full of beautiful churches and Christian sites including the church of Our Lady of Consolation with its winding path of bright flowers leading up to its entrance.
Then there is this unique site the Santa Marinha da Costa convent founded by the Queen of Portugal in the 14th century which believe it or not, is a luxury hotel today.
But no, the nuns probably did not live like this.
Then there's this church with a curious symbol just outside the city walls.
(gentle upbeat music) - This is the 14th century church and Convent of Sao Francisco.
As you can tell by its beauty it is part of what gives city its UNESCO World Heritage status.
Now, the original church was a little bit closer to the medieval wall where the Old Town is today.
But unfortunately, that church was destroyed by the king because apparently he was in a bad mood that day.
Later this spot was chosen and a new church was rebuilt.
Inside and out the architecture is exquisite but what I'm curious about is this rooster way up high.
(gentle upbeat music) - [Christine Voice Over] To get to the root of this rooster symbol, we are joined again by our friend and guide Monica.
- Yes.
- [Christine Voice Over] At a cute little boutique that is simply bursting with cock-a-doodle-delightfulness.
(gentle upbeat music) - I have been seeing roosters all over Portugal wherever we travel.
We even saw one at the top of a church.
And then in this beautiful shop I see rooster, rooster, rooster, rooster, rooster, and I might go home with this guy.
I'm just going to guess there's something to do.
- Oh yes, there is.
- Is this a symbol of Portugal?
What's going on with the roosters here in Portugal?
- This is a symbol of the country.
This is like a good luck symbol.
And it was born at the end of the 13th, beginning of 14th century.
According to the tradition, there was a pilgrim on his way to Santiago de Compostela.
He just had one night in a small town near here.
And during that night, some pieces of silver and gold they were stolen from one of the biggest family houses.
Nobody knew this man so it was very easy to point like- - He got suspected.
- Yes.
- [Christine Voice Over] So this poor pilgrim is accused of stealing the silver and is sentenced to be killed next day in the town square.
He spends his last night in prison where he has a dream about St. James and you guessed it, a rooster.
(rooster crowing) The next day he goes to the judge's home to plead his innocence.
- So when the pilgrim arrived to his house and you saw the big table full of food including a roasted rooster.
So that moment he just said, this is the proof I'm innocent.
When you will judge me on the main square, it'll give you the sign.
It'll be alive and you will be sure that I'm innocent.
- Okay.
- According to the tradition.
- So there was a roasted rooster and he said the proof is going to be that this roasted rooster will come back to life.
- Exactly.
- Okay.
- And apparently it's happened like that.
So the man was saved.
So today we all have a rooster in town, all tourist that visit the country they have a rooster and this is like a good luck symbol.
- So it's a good luck symbol it's not necessarily sort of, the moral of the story is give somebody the benefit of the doubt it's more- - It's more the like a good luck.
- You better keep a rooster with you just in case somebody wants to roast you you might need one.
- Because a rooster saved his life.
(gentle upbeat music) (upbeat orchestral music) - [Christine Voice Over] So from a city full of churches.
To a Roman crossroads named for barbarians who dared to wear trousers which today is a nice spot to wear cute little dress and have lunch in a cafe.
(upbeat orchestral music) To a mighty medieval tower full of curious symbols which are really just a creative way of counting.
(upbeat orchestral music) To a big beautiful blue palace covered in teeny tiny tiles.
(upbeat orchestral music) To the oldest cathedral in Portugal that's even older than Portugal itself with a mysterious Roman inscription, a curious clock, and some pretty little sea shells.
To a mountain top church that is many, many feet above sea level.
(upbeat orchestral music) To the city that founded a country with the help of a mighty castle.
To a luxurious palace with treasures from the age of discovery.
To a square dedicated to an olive.
All watched over by a legendary and lucky little rooster.
Braga and Guimarães have so much to be curious about.
- Thank you for joining us on our educational journey and hopefully now you're even more curious about the who, what, where, why, when, and how's of curious Braga and Guimarães.
As they say here in Portugal (speaks in foreign language).
(gentle upbeat music) (upbeat piano music) - [Christine Voice Over] "Curious Traveler" is made possible by the following.
(bright upbeat music) - [Narrator] At Regent Seven Seas Cruises we believe that personal space is essential to the luxury travel experience.
With no more than 732 guests our ships allow you to explore the world and discover the freedom of having space at sea.
- [Sponsor] Over 300 tours across all seven continents, over 40 years of serving travelers you can experience effortless, fun vacations and authentic experiences with GET.
GETours.com.
- [Narrator] Windstar Cruises, intimate, private yacht style cruises to the Mediterranean, Caribbean, Tahiti, and more.
We look forward to seeing you on board.
WindstarCruises.com (bright upbeat music) - [Sponsor] When you travel with us, you are not the typical tourist.
- [Christine Voice Over] And closed captioning provided by TAP Air Portugal.
Still curious?
Go to curioustravelertv.com and follow us on Facebook @CuriousTravelerTV, on Twitter @CuriousTravTV, and on Instagram @CuriousTravelerTV.
(bright upbeat music) (light airy music)
Curious Traveler is presented by your local public television station.
Distributed nationally by American Public Television