Peggy Sagers: Stonehedge was the first neckwear manufacturer to transpose artwork onto neckwear, including the works of Jerry Garcia, Miles Davis, and Christopher Reeve.

More than conversation pieces, the company's ties quickly became some of the hippest, most commercially successful ties in the world.

My friend Irwin is the president of Stonehedge.

I asked if he would teach us how to make a tie.

His response?

"I don't know how to make a tie, but Ella does."

Here today on "Fit 2 Stitch," we have Ella Pritsker.

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♪♪♪ Peggy: I have four sons.

You'd think I'd know something about making ties, and yet, I don't.

But I do have Ella, and Ella is the one to know about ties because behind that company of Stonehedge there was an Ella.

And I guess Ella did all the work, huh?

You did all the creativity, the genius, all of that making.

Ella Pritsker: Thank you.

I love talking about making ties.

Peggy: Thank you.

Ella: Ties are really easy to make and anybody can do it.

Peggy: I love that attitude.

Show me 'cause I would love to personalize it.

I think it's the ability you have to then personalize that tie that just makes it so special.

Ella: I think the tie is a very special gift, especially when it's handmade.

Peggy: Sure.

Ella: And when you are able to put your heart and soul into it, and you really enjoy the process, it really makes it so special.

So, let me show you how to make a tie.

I have a pattern here that I have cut out to specifically make a tie that is 3 inches wide which is the staple in the fashion right now.

So the tie will consist of three different parts, and sometimes it really depends on the width of your fabric and how much fabric you have.

Really, for a tie to be a beautiful tie with a great hand and very supple, we want to cut it on the bias, so you're gonna lay out your fabric and then you're going to place your pattern just like so, on a bias.

A bias is a 45-degree angle between the selvage and the grain.

Peggy: So this, by having this in a print like this, it almost allows you to align it automatically.

Ella: Exactly.

Peggy: You really-- do you have to be that careful or do you think that those points will really kind of do it for you?

Ella: So, it really does the job for you that, when you cut out the pattern and it has this pointy end to it, they're not exactly on a 90-degree, but they're pretty close so if you-- Peggy: Close enough.

It doesn't have to be exact.

Ella: Exactly.

You--definitely, the one thing that you want is to lay it out on a bias or as close to it as you possibly can and then the other two pieces of your pattern, you can lay side by side here and this is another point that will tell you that you're pretty close to a grain.

So once you lay out your pattern just like that, you can cut it out using a rotary cutter or, if you're more comfortable with scissors, you can do that, and you just got it right on the edges and you cut all of your pieces out, and then, here we have a few pieces and then it is time to assemble.

So there is several pieces that we have.

We have three in this case.

Sometimes, you can do just two pieces of the-- for the tie and sometimes you can make even more pieces if you have to because you have smaller piece of fabric.

It is very important to choose a good quality piece of fabric.

Peggy: Yeah, I think that's all the-- I heard that's all the trick is the quality of the fabric.

Ella: It is.

A lot of what we make really depends on a couple of very important things, and one of them is the quality of fabric you choose.

For a tie, it really needs to be something that has-- that is natural: a silk or a wool or linen or even cotton, depending on your quality.

You will have--the higher the quality you will have, the higher quality tie you will have.

So, here we have three beautiful silk ties.

Peggy: These are all silk?

Ella: They're all silk.

And what you want to have inside is a piece of wool because wool has-- Peggy: This is a wool?

Ella: It is, but in this particular case, I've chosen this to be the inside of all my ties is because it is consisting of silk and wool, and what I like about it is that this side that we're always going to put up, right side up, this is the right side, and it has this luster and sheen of silk and it makes it very easy to fold the tie and construct the tie.

And then the other side, the wrong side, that we are going to lay down on our tie, is a wool and it has this very grippy kind of quality to it.

Peggy: Yeah, it does.

It does.

So you'll know right to wrong 'cause the grippy side is gonna go against your fabric.

Ella: Exactly.

Peggy: So it kind of helps you.

Ella: And it's gonna make-- exactly.

It's gonna make a huge difference in how the tie looks and it also is gonna make a huge difference in how you are going to make the tie and how you're going to fold it and stitch it together.

So let me take you, step by step, through all I'm doing.

Peggy: I'm so excited.

I'm gonna go home and make ties.

I know it already.

Because I've even got fabric.

So, would I need, like, 2 yards?

Two yards is enough to make a tie?

Ella: Perfect.

Two yards is more than enough to make a tie.

You--most of the time, the fabric that is made specifically for ties is very narrow and this is why all the pieces for tie-making are short.

And the silk that is woven specifically for ties is about this wide, about 20-some inches.

And that's why our pattern pieces are always short.

But if you have a 150-inch width fabric which you-- I mean, 150 centimeters which is about 60 inches, you can lay side by side all of your pieces and not have to have a seam in your tie whatsoever.

Peggy: So there's no real advantage to the seams?

Ella: There's no advantage.

Peggy: It just fabric-- saves fabric?

Ella: It is specifically because the fabric that is designed for ties is made very narrow and that's why our tie pieces are short, so then they can fit into the width of the fabric that is made for ties.

Peggy: Very interesting.

Ella: But today, we can really make ties of any type of fabric and you can just choose the one that you really like.

So what I've chosen, this beautiful piece of fabric, is made of silk and wool.

This fabric is vintage.

I think I bought it somewhere in early '90s and it was vintage then.

So I loved the fact that it had this jacquard pattern and it also had a jacquard woven additional pattern to it.

So-- Peggy: It's very expensive looking.

Ella: It is.

For the lining of the tie I also chose something that is beautiful, it's high-quality silk, and it also is jacquard and it is reminiscent of the fabric quality that we already chose for the tie.

And one of the reasons that I chose this fabric is because it's--it will make a tie that is unisex.

You can wear it-- ladies can wear it and also it can be given as a gift to a man.

So you choose what speaks to you.

It really is a personal preference.

I know that people have their own reasons for different fabric choices and patterns and so on, so it is totally up to you what you choose.

Peggy: I like that.

Ella: So we have chosen this beautiful quality fabric and what we are going to do now is connect our pieces.

So, first, we're gonna put them on a table and, at a 90-degree, see, the pieces are cut on a bias, with a bias cut here, and on a 90-degree, we are going to pin these pieces together, just like so.

Always put your pin perpendicular to your seam so that you can easily take it out, instead of running over it.

Peggy: With your sewing machine.

Ella: With your sewing machine needle and-- Peggy: I'm terrible at running over pins.

Ella: I'll tell you what, I just love to sew and whatever I can--trick I can show you to make it easier-- Peggy: You're in.

Ella: And I'm in.

So we are going to take all of our pieces here, and we are going to go over to our sewing machine.

Peggy: Okay.

Ella: So, our seam allowance is going to be whatever you choose, whatever you've included in your pattern.

Peggy: It would be included in your pattern.

Ella: Yup.

Peggy: Is there a seam allowance that you typically use?

Ella: I always use a half an inch seam allowance because that makes it easier for me to remember what it was.

Peggy: Okay, but if you're good at using less than that, you can do whatever?

Ella: You most certainly are welcome to do whatever makes you feel more comfortable.

Ella: Okay, now we are going to take our pins out and press the seam allowances.

We have to press them open.

Peggy: The seam allowances go open?

Ella: The seam allowances will have to go open and we are going to do that very quickly right here on our table.

All we have to do is give it a light press.

Peggy: Sure, it would make sense.

If the seam allowances are closed, you're gonna have the bulk in a tie that you don't really want.

Ella: And you really want your tie to be nice and flat.

Peggy: I'm fascinated that the seam allowance, that the fact that it's not one piece, has nothing to do with tying but everything to do with how the fabric comes.

Ella: Exactly.

Peggy: That's amazing to me.

Ella: The fabric is woven.

Peggy: I always thought there was some, you know, amazing reason as to how the fabric was why it was.

Ella: And there isn't.

Peggy: There's not.

Ella: So now, we are going to sew our corners which is-- which can be very intimidating but please don't be intimidated because there is a very, very simple way to do that.

So once you cut out the tie, the lining of the tie, you're going to pin it just like that, pin it all in the corners and can you see how it doesn't go all the way-- Peggy: It doesn't!

Ella: --to the end.

Peggy: I wanna line it up.

Ella: There is a reason for that.

Yes, our natural instinct that's, "Oh, it has to be perfect," and, trust me, it will be.

And you just go into-- Peggy: Like the imperfection will become perfection, is what you're saying?

Ella: Exactly.

There's definitely a very good reason for that.

So we are going to pin it and we're gonna pin the other side as well just so it makes it easier for us to stitch and not have to think about it because these are things that are cut on the biases and you know, when things are cut on the bias, you've gotta be careful stitching it.

So now we are going to do the same thing here and end our seam about 1 inch away from the corner.

Peggy: So that's a little shorter and it's gonna pull that lining to the inside, isn't it?

Ella: No, it's not.

Peggy: Oh, okay.

Ella: It's going to be perfect.

Peggy: Okay.

Ella: It's going to be perfect.

So now we're going to do the same thing with the other end.

As you can see, it doesn't come all the way to the end of the-- Peggy: And would you say that's about a 1/4-inch?

Ella: It's about a 1/4 of an inch.

And there is a very good reason for that and I'm gonna show you what the-- Peggy: You're keeping us in suspense.

I can't wait.

Ella: --reason is and you are going to be thrilled that it is so easy.

Peggy: It's gonna be genius, huh?

Ella: It's genius, exactly.

There is a very easy way of doing things and this is one of them.

So, once we've pinned-- Peggy: And this should be all in your pattern, so it's not like you have to create the pattern.

Ella: Exactly.

Peggy: It's all in your pattern.

Ella: Exactly.

It's already there.

All you have to do is follow directions.

Peggy: Directions, yeah.

Ella: So once we've pinned it, now we are going back to our sewing machine.

Peggy: Okay.

Ella: And we are going to sew and now we're going to pivot.

Peggy: And you're just-- your seam allowance, you're 1/2-inch from the edge?

Ella: Mm-hm.

Peggy: Okay.

Ella: And don't forget that you need to stop 1 inch before you get to the end, okay?

And now we're gonna go to the other side.

Peggy: You're gonna pull that out of the way and you're gonna start right where you stopped?

You start-- you don't overstitch it.

You start internally?

Ella: You are going to start right at that second pin on the other side of the corner.

And you're going to finish right here.

Peggy: This is a deep secret, though?

Like, this is amazing.

Ella: So this is what makes a tie have a beautiful corner.

So, now that I have stitched the entire corner of the tie, I'm simply going to line up these corners and line up these little parts right here and right where you stopped-- where you stopped your stitch, you're gonna go back here and, at a 90-degree angle to that fold, you're going to stitch for about an inch.

You're gonna stitch the corner.

So now-- Peggy: If you would have ever told me there was a 90-degree angle at the point of that tie, I would have told you you were crazy.

Ella: Right?

Peggy: Yes.

Ella: And now we are going to just put your finger right in here.

Peggy: Oh my gosh, look at that.

Ella: Turn it.

And this corner here, turn this corner here.

And voila.

What you have is a beautiful corner that is-- Peggy: It's perfect.

Ella: --self-faced.

Peggy: It's perfect.

Ella: And it's perfection.

So now, all we have to do is go back and finish our tie.

It is very easy.

Peggy: Oh my goodness.

Ella: So you'll have to do the same thing with your other corner.

Peggy: With the other end.

But it's exact same process?

Ella: It's exact same process.

You'll just have a much smaller corner so we have pressed our corner here and now we're gonna go back and-- Peggy: Oh, it's so pretty.

Ella: --finish our tie.

Peggy: I think what I love about great methods is they are-- Ella: Simple.

Peggy: They're simple but they're so beautiful.

I mean, look at this.

Ella: And they make a beautiful finish.

Beautiful, beautiful finish.

Peggy: Oh my gosh.

Ella: So now, to make our beautiful tie supple, good quality, amazing tie, we're gonna take this piece of silk and wool that is also included in your pattern and we are going to insert it right into this corner and make sure it lines up with the corner of the tie itself.

Peggy: Push it all the way down.

Ella: Push it all the way in and then we are going to lay it out just like that.

Peggy: You know, watching you, I just wanna make 'em as opposed to buy 'em.

I don't even wanna buy 'em.

What you said is so right.

It's so personal.

Ella: It is just--it just brings you so much joy to be able to make something and have your favorite person enjoy that and see that.

Peggy: Yes.

Ella: So now we are going to go ahead and fold the tie in.

You can put your pin in here, rest it here.

Peggy: And you've done many of these.

Does it matter which side comes in over the other?

Ella: So the side that you fold towards yourself comes first.

Peggy: Comes in first, okay.

Ella: And then you fold just a little bit in.

Peggy: And you're folding under 1/4 inch or so.

Ella: Just a little.

Just enough so that you have this fold in the center of your tie.

And then you wanna put a pin.

The one thing you don't wanna do is you wanna avoid pinning the whole tie through.

So you don't want to sew the whole tie through, but now you are going to-- Peggy: You're only catching the two layers of the jacquard.

You're not catching the end of the tie.

Ella: Yes.

And now you're going to fold one end.

Then you're gonna fold the other end, and you pin.

Peggy: That fabric is beautiful.

Ella: Then you can go ahead and fold that in as well.

And put a pin.

So, most of the ties are not sewn all the way down to the end.

They are stitched all the way to the label.

And then we are going to make a little-- secure the end.

So, once you go through the entire tie and pin it just like so, then you have to stitch it together.

And once you stitch it together, then your tie will be complete.

Peggy: That is beautiful.

Ella: And look what you have.

Peggy: Oh my gosh, it's just beautiful.

Ella: And you did this in, what, 20 minutes?

Peggy: Yeah, not a long time at all.

But I'm just amazed at how beautiful the corners lay and how--and that's-- a lot of that is that fabric.

Ella: It's a beautiful fabric.

What makes a beautiful tie is a beautiful fabric and your workmanship.

Peggy: And just don't overdo it, over-handle.

I think sometimes I feel like there's so much sewing to it that I just annihilate the fabric, just trying to-- Ella: There's really so little sewing to the tie, you're really just sewing a couple of seams here and your corners, and the length of the tie by hand.

Peggy: So bring us-- let's transition to women's because there are so many great tie ideas for women.

They're not just for men.

Ella: Ties, really, are such a beautiful fashion trend today, that not only men wear ties, but also ladies.

And we can wear all of our men's ties as well as just like so.

We can also wear ties our way so that they're more feminine.

This tie--this is also a bias-cut beautiful tie that is made of the same fabric as the blouse and it's just simply tied as a bow.

Peggy: And that's actually a separate piece?

Ella: It is a separate piece but it goes through a little loop in the back of the blouse and you can take it off or you can have it on and you can also, instead of tying it as a bow, you can also tie it as a tie.

So it just depends on the occasion and how you wear it.

Peggy: I love that.

Ella: What your personal style is.

Peggy: I think just the whole look makes it so much more feminine.

And then, something as masculine as a trench coat, even, we can-- Ella: So we have this gorgeous tie that goes with this trench coat and you can wear it inside the trench coat.

You can also wear it outside.

You can wear the trench coat open and let the tie be there with a blouse or even with a dress because it's just such a beautiful addition.

It dresses up your wardrobe.

Peggy: It does.

Ella: It's just such a fun accessory.

You really can have so much fun with ties.

Peggy: I think that I don't even see them as masculine anymore, because I've seen so many beautiful versions for women, that I don't really think of 'em as masculine.

Ella: And now that you can make your own tie, you can make it in lace, you can make it in brocade, you can make it in so many beautiful and different fabrics.

Peggy: And just this one too.

Now, this is connected, but-- Ella: This is connected and the neckline of the collar of this blouse becomes this tie.

And also you can wear it as a bow and you can untie it and wear it as a beautiful tie and tie it just like any menswear tie.

Peggy: It's just so pretty.

So, back here on the table, you had something that I wanted to look at.

You had mentioned a little bit earlier but, as you sew for clients, or do for different things, talk to me about this tie.

Ella: I made this beautiful tie that I'm going to send to a client of mine for whom I made a beautiful dress out of this fabric.

This is such a special and unique outfit for both of them to enjoy.

Peggy: So, the pattern is in the dress for the female and then in the tie for the male?

Ella: Correct.

Peggy: So they can coordinate.

Ella: They can coordinate and go out as a couple and enjoy the moment.

Then, really, this is just to delight your customer.

Peggy: But it looks like it was almost made to be a tie.

It's just perfect how you placed it.

Ella: Isn't it?

It's all about your own artistry and your own creativity and how you place the pattern on the fabric, and the fabric you choose.

And it's just going to be-- Peggy: Now, I notice there's a seam here.

So even if your fabric is enough, you go ahead and use the seams anyway?

Ella: Yes, even if the fabric is enough, I still use the seams because that allows me to have just a corner of the fabric that I used for the-- Peggy: For the end.

Ella: For the end.

Peggy: Okay, so all of those ties and all of those millions Ella was behind all those ties.

Irwin was right.

Ella: Irwin is such an amazing person.

He is so creative and his creativity really doesn't know any bounds.

I am absolutely thrilled and so grateful.

Peggy: Well, we really appreciate you being on the show.

You're here because of him.

Again, his graciousness continues.

But we just have to say thank you for showing us.

Ella: Thank you so much.

Peggy: Thank you.

Ella: Really such a pleasure to be here.

Peggy: Thank you, Ella.

Ella: Thank you.

Peggy: Haute couture is a very specialized method of sewing that is regulated by the French Government and includes business restrictions as well as specific sewing methods.

However, these methods can be done by anyone, anywhere, even here in our studio.

Join us next time as we learn couture sewing from an expert.

♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ ♪♪♪ announcer: "Fit 2 Stitch" is made possible by Kai Scissors.

♪♪♪ announcer: Reliable Corporation.

♪♪♪ announcer: Plano Sewing Center.

♪♪♪ announcer: Elliott Berman Textiles.

♪♪♪ announcer: Bennos Buttons.

♪♪♪ announcer: And Clutch Nails.

♪♪♪ announcer: To order a four-DVD set of "Fit 2 Stitch," series 12, please visit our website at fit2stitch.com.

♪♪♪