Braised Lamb Shank on Barley Risotto with Joachim Splichal

[A DIVISION OF MARYLAND PUBLIC TELEVISION]

HELLO, I'M JULIA CHILD.

WELCOME TO MY HOUSE AND TO MY KITCHEN

AND TO ANOTHER CULINARY ADVENTURE

WITH ONE OF AMERICA'S MASTER CHEFS.

FROM LOS ANGELES

CHEF/OWNER OF PATINA ON MELROSE BOULEVARD

JOACHIM SPLICHAL.

CHEF JOACHIM IS GOING TO SHOW US A MARVELOUS RECIPE

FOR BRAISED LAMB SHANKS

WITH BARLEY RISOTTO.

THAT SOUNDS WONDERFUL.

AND HERE THEY ARE.

WE HAVE A WHOLE LAMB SHANK.

IT'S NICE AND MEATY, ISN'T IT?

YES.

THEN WE HAVE HERE THEY'RE CUT ALREADY.

AND YOU JUST BUY THEM THAT WAY ALREADY CUT.

YEAH, YOU CAN BUY THEM FROM THE BUTCHER JUST CUT.

YEAH, UM HMM.

AND I WILL SALT AND PEPPER THEM.

HOW MANY DO YOU NEED PER PERSON, ABOUT?

ONE PER PERSON WOULD BE FINE.UM HMM.

THERE'S A LOT OF MEAT ON THEM.

YEAH.

IT WILL SHRINK A LITTLE BIT WHILE YOU COOK THEM.

AND I'VE PREHEATED A PAN HERE.

AND WE'LL ALSO FLOUR THEM.

IS THAT SO THEY'LL BROWN MORE EASILY?

THEY'LL BROWN EASIER.

THICKENS THE SAUCE A LITTLE BIT I GUESS TOO?

AND IT THICKENS ALSO THE SAUCE.

SO YOU SHOULDN'T USE TOO MUCH FLOUR.YEAH.

START WITH THE BUTTER.

JUST A LITTLE BIT.

IT'S GOOD AND HOT, ISN'T IT?

IT'S QUITE HOT, YEAH.

YOU WANT TO REALLY BROWN

THE SHANKS.

YOU'RE GETTING RID OF EXCESS FLOUR.

YEAH, PATTING IT HARD.

OTHERWISE, THE SAUCE WILL BE TOO THICK.YEAH.

AND WE LET THEM BROWN VERY SLOWLY.YEAP.

ON HIGH HEAT.

IN THE MEANTIME

I'LL PREPARE THE VEGETABLES FOR IT.

WE CUT THEM ALL COARSE.

THESE ARE GOING TO COOK WITH THE STEW, I GUESS.

YEAH, I FIRST BROWN THE SHANKS OFF

AND THEN WE WILL ROAST THE VEGETABLES.

SOME LEEKS.

AND LEEKS.

I LOVE LEEKS.

CARROTS.

WITH BASICALLY ANY STEW

YOU SHOULD HAVE THOSE VEGETABLES

AND A LITTLE BIT OF CELERY.

YOU HAVE REALLY LOTS OF VEGETABLES THERE.

AND THEY GET SLOWLY BROWN.

UM HMM.

A LITTLE BIT OF SHALLOT ALSO.

I'VE NEVER SEEN SUCH BIG SHALLOTS AS THOSE.

THEY'RE ABOUT TWICE THE SIZE.

ARE THOSE FROM CALIFORNIA?

MASSACHUSETTS.

I DON'T KNOW.

MASSACHUSETT SHALLOTS.

MASSACHUSETTS SHALLOTS.

THAT'S WHAT THEY ARE.

WE ONLY USE MASSACHUSETTS VEGETABLES AROUND HERE.

WE PUT A LITTLE BIT OF GARLIC.

MASHED DOWN, GOOD.

DOWN LIKE THIS.

YOU CAN EITHER PEEL IT OR NOT PEEL IT-

IT'S NOT REALLY IMPORTANT.

BUT LET'S NOT PEEL.

SO WE'RE NOT GOING TO PEEL IT.

YOU'VE GOT FOUR BIG CLOVES THERE.

TURN THEM OVER.

...HOW CAREFULLY YOU BROWN THESE.

YOU'RE NOT JUST TOSSING THEM AROUND.

YOU'RE REALLY LOOKING AT EACH ONE.

IT'S VERY IMPORTANT THAT THEY'RE EQUALLY BROWNED

BECAUSE AT THE END, WHEN WE ADD THEM TO THE SAUCE

IT WILL REALLY ADD A LITTLE BIT OF COLOR TO IT.

AND IT'S VERY IMPORTANT

THAT THEY'RE NICE AND BROWN.

CAREFUL COOKING, CUISINE SOIGNEE.

CUISINE SOIGNEE ALWAYS.

THAT'S THE BEST.

AND I ADD A FEW BRANCHES OF THYME TO THE PLATE.

CALIFORNIA THYME?

MASSACHUSETTS.

(laughing)

WE ALSO WILL NEED A FEW TOMATOES.

THOSE ARE ITALIAN PLUMS?

JUST CUT THEM IN LARGE PIECES.

YOU KEEP THE SKIN ON?

WE KEEP THE SKIN ON, IT'S NOT REALLY...

WELL, IT GIVES THEM A BETTER COLOR I THINK

WITH THE SKIN ON.

YEAH.

AND YOU CAN USE ANY TYPE-

IT DOESN'T HAVE TO BE PLUM TOMATOES.

NO.

IT CAN BE REGULAR.

AS LONG AS THEY'RE RIPE AND HAVE FLAVOR.

FLAVOR - THAT'S THE MOST IMPORTANT THING.

THIS TAKES ABOUT TEN MINUTES

TO REALLY ROAST THOSE SHANKS OFF.

I THINK THIS IS FINE.

CLEAN THE PAN A LITTLE BIT OF ANY EXCESS FAT.

THEN ADD CELERY, CARROTS, THE LEEK, ONIONS

SHALLOTS AND GARLIC.

AND WITH NO FAT IN THE PAN AT ALL.

WE WILL ADD A LITTLE BIT OF BUTTER.

AND WHAT IS VERY IMPORTANT NOW

THAT WE REALLY ROAST THE VEGETABLES VERY WELL

BECAUSE IT WILL ADD COLOR TO THE SAUCE.

THAT'S INTERESTING

THAT YOU'RE NOT USING VEGETABLE OIL OR ANYTHING.

YOU DO USE BUTTER.

BUTTER, YEAH.

ON ACCOUNT OF THE FLAVOR.

I THINK YOU CAN USE CORN OIL

OR ANY TYPE OF VEGETABLE OIL.

SOMETIMES I JUST PREFER BUTTER AND...UM HMM.

THE VEGETABLES ARE NEARLY READY.

THEY LOOK NICE, THEY'RE SORT OF SOFTENED

AND ALMOST BROWNING AREN'T THEY?

THE ONIONS BROWN NICELY.

AND THEY'RE GOING TO HELP THE FLAVOR.UM HMM.

I'M ADDING TOMATOES

TO IT.

ONE BAY LEAF.

ONE BAY LEAF.

NOW I'M ADDING THE THYME.

NICE, FRESH THYME ISN'T IT?

WE'LL ROAST THAT NOW FOR A FEW MINUTES.

THE JUICE IS COMING OUT SLOWLY, YOU SEE?

AND THAT WILL AGAIN, GIVE COLOR TO THE SAUCE.YEAP.

IT'S ALWAYS IMPORTANT TO DO THIS OVER HIGH HEAT

SO IT GOES REALLY QUICKLY.YEAP.

IT'S REALLY A WONDERFULLY AROMATIC AROMA.

YES.

YOU SEE ALREADY THAT THE TOMATOES ARE FALLING APART

AND THAT'S WHAT YOU WANT.

NOW I'M ADDING THE LAMB SHANKS.

I PLACE THEM ONE BY ONE IN THE PAN...

NICELY.

YOU WILL HAVE TWO DIFFERENT COOKING TIMES

BECAUSE THREE PIECES ARE SMALL.

AND YOU HAVE THREE LARGE PIECES.

SO YOU REALLY HAVE TO WATCH OUT FOR THAT.YEAP.

HOW LONG WILL THEY TAKE ABOUT

FOR THE SMALL ONES?

THE BIG PIECES AN HOUR AND A HALF, TWO HOURS

AND MAYBE THE SMALL PIECES JUST OVER AN HOUR.UM HMM.

WE WILL ADD THE CHICKEN STOCK TO IT.

THAT'S ABOUT FIVE CUPS.

THEY DON'T NEED TO BE COVERED COMPLETELY.

I HAVE A LITTLE BIT MORE SAUCE HERE-

I HAVE SOME VEAL STOCK.

AND IF YOU DON'T HAVE ANY VEAL STOCK

JUST BROWN THE SHANKS A LITTLE BIT MORE

AND THE VEGETABLES A LITTLE BIT MORE.

I THINK WE WILL ADD THAT.

SO YOU HAVE ONE CUP OF VEAL STOCK

AND SIX CUPS OF CHICKEN STOCK.

I THINK THAT WILL BE FINE.

IT DOESN'T NEED TO BE COMPLETELY COVERED?

NO, THAT'S FINE.

WE WILL TURN THEM AROUND.

AND FOR FLAVOR WE JUST ADD

A LITTLE BIT OF CALIFORNIA CHARDONNAY HERE.UM HMM.

THAT'S NOT VERY MUCH.

OH, APPROXIMATELY, QUARTER, HALF A CUP.

WE WILL LET IT BOIL

PUT A COVER ON IT AND PUT IT INTO THE OVEN.

JUST HAVE TO SIMMER SLOWLY.

THAT JUST KEEPS COMING UP.

SO WE COVER IT AND WE PUT IT INTO THE OVEN.

AND I'LL OPEN IT UP FOR YOU.

IT'S QUITE HEAVY.

A PREHEATED OVEN FOR ABOUT 350 DEGREES.

AND WE JUST LEAVE IT IN THERE

AND WATCH IT EACH 15, 20 MINUTES.

AND TURN THEM AROUND, THAT THEY COOK EQUALLY.

Julia: DO WE THINK THEY'RE ALL READY.

YEAH, THEY SHOULD BE READY.

THEY COOKED ABOUT ONE HOUR AND 45 MINUTES.

YEAH.

AND YOU SEE, THEY'VE SHRUNK.

IT SMELLS GOOD.

QUITE A LITTLE BIT.

WE WILL TAKE THEM OUT NOW.

YES, THEY HAVE SHRUNK A BIT.

YEAH, THEY'RE ABOUT ONE THIRD OF THE SIZE THEY WERE.

I COULD PROBABLY EAT TWO OF THOSE, COULDN'T YOU?

OH YEAH.

WELL, THAT'S WONDERFUL.

I GUESS ONE BIG ONE AND ONE LITTLE ONE.

AND MAYBE EVEN MORE.

YEAH.

AND THEY LOOK PRETTY GOOD.

THEY LOOK LOVELY.

DO YOU HAVE TO PRESS THE MEAT

TO MAKE SURE THEY'RE DONE?

YEAH, I THINK YOU JUST CAN USE A FORK.

AND YOU CAN CHECK

IF IT GOES OFF THE BONE VERY EASILY.

CAN YOU HAND ME THE CHINOIS PLEASE?

THANK YOU.

I WILL STRAIN THE SAUCE NOW.

UM HMM.

YOU COULD JUST PUT IT THROUGH A REGULAR STRAINER?

YES, YOU COULD.

I PREHEATED THE PAN SO IT WOULD REDUCE VERY QUICKLY.

PRESS ALL THE JUICE OUT OF THEM.

ALL THAT PRECIOUS JUICE, YES.

NOW, WE WILL REDUCE IT HALF

ON FULL HEAT.

SOMETIMES WE HAVE A LITTLE BIT FAT ALL OVER.

AND YOU JUST TAKE IT OUT.

YEAP.

AND WHILE YOU'RE BOILING IT DOWN

YOU DE-GREASE IT.

AS YOU SEE, YOU SKIM ALL THIS OFF.

IT MAY BE BETTER TO HAVE A LADLE.

I KNEW WE HAD A LADLE, THERE IT IS.

OH, GREAT.

THANKS A LOT.

THERE YOU ARE.

IT'S MUCH EASIER TO GO AROUND WITH THIS.

THEN YOU JUST KEEP SKIMMING IT AS YOU GO ALONG.YEAH.

WHILE IT REDUCES IT.

NOW WE COVER THE SHANKS.

SOME FOIL TO KEEP THEM... TO KEEP THEM MOIST?

NICE AND WARM AND MOIST.

AND I WILL START THE RISOTTO.

THAT'S RIGHT.

WE'RE DOING THE BARLEY RISOTTO.

THE BARLEY RISOTTO.

THAT WILL BE GREAT.

WE'LL START CUTTING A REGULAR ONION INTO...

I'M INTERESTED IN THAT KNIFE, JOACHIM...

IT'S A DIFFERENT SHAPE.

I'VE NEVER SEEN ONE LIKE THAT.

YEAH, IT LOOKS LIKE A JAPANESE KNIFE.

IS THAT YOURS THAT YOU BROUGHT WITH YOU?

NO, I DIDN'T BRING ANY KNIVES.

AH.

WELL, IT'S NOT MINE.

SOMEBODY MUST HAVE LEFT IT.

I CUT THEM INTO REALLY FINE CUBES.

I CHOP THEM A LITTLE BIT.

SOME PEOPLE LIKE TO DO THIS IN THE CUISINART.

I THINK IT MASHES IT A BIT, DON'T YOU?

YEAH, IT MASHES.

AND THERE'S TOO MUCH LIQUID COMING OUT AFTERWARD.

WE HAVE A PREHEATED PAN HERE.

I PUT IT ON HIGH.

START OFF WITH A TOUCH OF BUTTER.

MELT THE BUTTER.

THIS STARTS OUT LIKE A REAL ITALIAN RISOTTO.

YEAH, THE SAME WAY.

ADD THE ONIONS.

I LIKE TO KEEP, WHENEVER I DO A DISH

I KEEP MYSELF TO REAL CLASSICAL GUIDELINES.

I THINK THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT.

I THINK IT'S SO IMPORTANT

TO GET A GOOD CLASSICAL TRAINING.

BECAUSE THEN YOU REALLY CAN DO ANYTHING, CAN'T YOU?

YEAH.

YOU'VE LEARNED EVERYTHING.

THAT'S DEFINITELY THE BEST PLACE TO GET THAT.

I REALLY THINK IT'S STILL EUROPE.

I MEAN, I WORKED IN SWITZERLAND.

AND IN SWITZERLAND YOU GET A LOT OF BASICS.

AND IN FRANCE YOU GET THE FINESSE.

YOU SEE, THEY'VE REALLY SWEATED

FOR APPROXIMATELY A MINUTE AND A HALF.

SO WE DE-GLAZE

WITH CHARDONNAY.

THAT WAS A GOOD HALF CUP THAT WENT IN THERE.

OKAY, WE WILL LET REDUCE THE WINE AND THE ONION

FOR ABOUT ONE OR TWO MINUTES.

AND THEN WE WILL ADD THE BARLEY.

THIS IS JUST PLAIN ORDINARY BARLEY.

ORDINARY BARLEY.

I LIKE THE TASTE OF IT BECAUSE AT THE END

THE RISOTTO WHEN THE RICE IS COOKED

AND IT'S A LITTLE BIT AL DENTE.

THE BARLEY STAYS ALWAYS AL DENTE.

SO YOU DON'T HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT IT GETTING MUSHY.

NO, NOT AT ALL.

WELL THAT'S A GREAT IDEA.

SO WE ADD THE BARLEY.

HOW MUCH YOU'VE GOT THERE, ABOUT A CUP AND A HALF.

THAT'S ABOUT TWELVE OUNCES.YEAP.

A CUP AND A HALF.

THE REASON WHY I DO IT RIGHT NOW

IS THAT THE BARLEY

GETS A LITTLE BIT OF FLAVOR OF THE WINE.

I THINK THAT IS IMPORTANT IF YOU DO ANY RISOTTO.

THEN WE'LL ADD

SOME CHICKEN STOCK TO COVER THE BARLEY.

AND WE'LL LET IT COOK NOW VERY SLOWLY.

AND IT WILL TAKE A GOOD 20 MINUTES TO COOK THE BARLEY

15 TO 20 MINUTES.UM HMM.

THEN YOU KEEP ADDING A LITTLE STOCK TO IT?

AND WE ADD A LITTLE STOCK PERIODICALLY.

IN THE MEANTIME, I WILL CUT SOME CARROTS

AND SOME LEEK AND SOME SHALLOTS.

WHAT ARE THEY GOING TO BE FOR?

I WILL SAUTE THEM

AND THEN AT THE END I WILL ADD THEM TO THE RISOTTO.AH HA.

JUST TO GIVE THEM A LITTLE BIT OF COLOR.

WELL, THAT'LL TO BE VERY PRETTY.

THAT'S BEAUTIFUL.

THAT'S SO EVEN AND SMALL.

WILL THIS BE A BRUNOISE?

BRUNOISE, YEAH, IT'S,.

YEAH, IT MEANS... JUST VERY SMALL CUBES.

YEAP.

I CUT THE CARROTS

AND I PUT THEM AGAIN ON THE MANDOLINE.

THAT'S WHY IT'S WONDERFUL

WATCHING PROFESSIONALS WORK

BECAUSE THEN YOU PICK UP IDEAS

SUCH AS THAT FINE SLICE ON THE MANDOLINE BEFORE YOU.

WELL, IT'S MUCH EASIER

TO DO IT WITH THE MANDOLINE THAN BY HAND.

BECAUSE WHAT HAPPENS BY HAND

OFTEN WITH THE CARROTS -

IT'S VERY COMPLEX TO CUT THEM.YEAP.

NOW, I'LL CUT A FEW SHALLOTS.

AT HOME YOU CAN USE A FOOD PROCESSOR FOR THE CARROTS

THE SHALLOTS AND LEEK.

BUT THEY WOULDN'T BE NEARLY AS NEAT AND NICE

AS DONE BY HAND.

THEY GET A LITTLE BIT MUSHY BUT, FROM A TIME.

WE DON'T WANT MUSHY COOKING, DO WE?

NO WE DON'T.

WE WANT IT DONE JUST RIGHT.

THE SHALLOTS WE CHOP A LITTLE BIT MORE.

WE'LL ADD THAT

TO THE CARROTS AND THE LEEK.

I THINK WE ALSO SHOULD CHECK THE STOCK.

ADD A LITTLE BIT MORE.

HOW IS THE STOCK DOING?

THAT'S REDUCING DOWN NICELY.

OKAY, I WILL SAUTE THE VEGETABLES.

THIS IS THE GARNISH FOR... NON-STICK PAN.

WE ADD THE SHALLOTS, LEEK...

LEEKS AND CARROTS.

THAT'S GOING TO BE VERY PRETTY.

JUST SAUTE THAT FOR A SECOND.

THAT PAN IS A GOOD SHAPE, ISN'T IT

WITH THE HIGH SIDES?

YEAH, PERFECT.

SAUTEING THINGS LIKE THAT.

AND AGAIN, YOU DON'T NEED VERY MUCH FAT OR BUTTER.

AND HERE YOU HAVE THE BARLEY.

I'LL HAVE TO HAVE A LITTLE TASTE OF THAT.

AND THAT'S DONE.

YEAH.

THE LIQUID IS NEARLY ALL GONE.

IT'S ABOUT 20 TO 22 MINUTES.

AND IT SHOULD BE A LITTLE BIT CRUNCHY.

HOW WOULD YOU CALL, IT HAS TEXTURE.

IS IT TOO CRUNCHY, JULIA?

NO, I LIKE IT THIS WAY.

OH, YOU SAID YOU DON'T WANT IT TO BE LIKE MUSH

IT'S TO BE LIKE A GRAIN.

YEAH I WANT IT, THAT THE GRAIN SHOWS PERFECTLY.

IT'S JUST A LITTLE BIT AL DENTE

WHICH IS VERY NICE I THINK.

YEAH.

AND THE SAME THING WE DO WITH THE VEGETABLES.

JUST COOK THEM FOR APPROXIMATELY ONE MINUTE

ON HIGH HEAT, AND THEN WE WILL ADD THAT.

THEY'RE SO FINELY DICED ANYWAY.

THEY COOK VERY QUICKLY.

TO THE RISOTTO.

JUST MIX THEM.

HMM, THAT'S A GOOD IDEA PUTTING THOSE IN I THINK.

I WILL CHOP SOME PARSLEY

FLAT ITALIAN PARSLEY.

AND IT SHOULD BE REALLY CHOPPED VERY COARSE.

YOU HAVE THE BARLEY WITH THE SMALL VEGETABLES.

WE ADD PARMESAN CHEESE

QUITE A BIT.

QUITE A BIT.

ABOUT AN OUNCE, AN OUNCE AND A HALF.

YEAH, THAT WOULD BE ABOUT A GOOD HALF CUP ANYWAY.

WHAT'S IMPORTANT IS IT MELTS NOW.

PARMESAN HAS TO MELT.

AND THAT WILL GIVE IT A NICE

KIND OF INDESCRIBABLE RICHNESS, WON'T IT?

YES.

AND THEN WE ADD TO THE RICHNESS

A LITTLE BIT OF BUTTER.

PEOPLE COULD LEAVE THAT OUT IF THEY WERE AFRAID OF IT?

YEAH, DEFINITELY.

AND THAT LOVELY SMELL OF BUTTER

ALONG WITH EVERYTHING ELSE.

SALT, AND THEN PEPPER

WHICH WE DIDN'T ADD IN THE BEGINNING.YEAH.

BECAUSE OF THE LIQUID.

LET'S TASTE IT QUICKLY, IF...

MMM.

THAT'S LOVELY.

I THINK IT HAS ENOUGH SALT THOUGH.

I THINK IT'S JUST RIGHT.

WE ADD THE PARSLEY

LAST SECOND.

WE WILL SERVE THAT FAMILY-STYLE.GOOD.

BECAUSE I THINK IT'S A REAL DISH

FOR THE WHOLE FAMILY.

COULD YOU GIVE ME THE LAMB SHANKS?

THEY'RE IN THE OVEN.UM HMM.

WHERE DO YOU WANT THEM, RIGHT HERE?

YEAH, RIGHT HERE WOULD BE GREAT.

AND YOU PLACE THE RISOTTO

IN THE MIDDLE.UM HMM.

HMM, NICE AND HOT.

AND I PLACE THE HOT SHANKS

IN THE MIDDLE.

MAYBE JUST THREE BIG ONES.

AND THE SMALL ONES WE TRY TO PUT AROUND THEM.

THOSE LOOK WONDERFULLY TENDER TOO.

AND THEY ARE, REALLY PERFECTLY COOKED.

AND THE FINAL TOUCH-

WE'LL ADD MAYBE A LITTLE TOUCH OF

JUST A TOUCH OF BUTTER.

JUST TO FINISH IT OFF?

ADD A LITTLE BIT OF SALT, PEPPER.

OH BOY, THAT REALLY HAS REDUCED DOWN, HASN'T IT?

THAT'S BEAUTIFUL.

JUST TAKE A FEW LEAVES

DO THIS AND JUST SPRINKLE IT OVER.

SO IT'S REALLY A RUSTIC DISH.YEAP.

OH, THAT'S LOVELY.

FOR A FAMILY OF FOUR.

OR TWO?

OR TWO, YEAH.

TWO LIKE US.

Julia: JOACHIM, THAT'S JUST BEAUTIFUL

AND I THANK YOU SO MUCH.

I'VE LEARNED AN AWFUL LOT WITH YOU.

THANK YOU FOR HAVING ME.

I'M VERY GRATEFUL.

THANK YOU.

THANK YOU JULIA.

DETAILED

WELL, JOACHIM, IT'S BEEN A GREAT PLEASURE

TO HAVE YOU HERE.

THANK YOU FOR HAVING ME.

I'VE ALWAYS ADMIRED YOUR FOOD AND I'M...

OH, THANK YOU, THAT'S...

VERY PROUD THAT WE'VE HAD YOU ON OUR SERIES.

THANK YOU, I'M DELIGHTED TO BE HERE.

AND I JUST WANT TO THANK YOU VERY MUCH.

THANK YOU.

BON APPETIT.