♪ ♪ (Rudy Maxa) I'm eating my way through fiery food stalls in the capital of a country that's rocketed to global success in little more than a generation, a country as feisty as its food... Korea.

[sitar & percussion play in steady rhythm] ♪ ♪ [singing in Korean] ♪ ♪ (woman) Funding for "Rudy Maxa's World" is provided by the following... (woman) Orbitz salutes the neverending spirit of adventure and as a proud sponsor of "Rudy Maxa's World" Orbitz offers comprehensive information on the world's great destinations.

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[Korean janggu drums play in bright rhythm] (man) Korea, be one with earth and sky.

(woman) And by Delta, serving hundreds of destinations worldwide.

Information to plan your next trip available at delta.com.

♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ (Rudy) With their misty mountain temples and hypermodern cities, Koreans mix deep-abiding tradition and eye-popping modernity as easily as they toss together the national dish, kimchi.

In the last few decades, Korea has made a beeline for the future.

The result?

A generation gap a mile wide.

But even that is handled with the characteristic calm, proud, driven ethos of this fiercely nationalistic people, and without a doubt, this is a country to be proud of.

I begin and end my South Korean journey in Seoul, with a loop around the country to visit mountain temples and 2 historic cities, Gyeongju and Jeonju.

Koreans attack life.

They work hard, they play hard, and their enthusiasm is infectious.

♪ ♪ After an uneasy armistice in 1953 ended the Korean War, Seoul went from war torn ruins to a modern metropolis that rivals any in Asia.

This economic miracle is the dizzying story of South Korea.

Consider that the literacy rate in South Korea was 22% in 1945, and now it's virtually 100%.

Koreans are some of the most educated, hardest working people in the world.

When they go modern, they mean business.

town in 1988, but in Seoul,picst the shopping olympics never end.

You can buy anything, anywhere, anytime.

Everywhere you turn in Seoul, people are out shopping, eating... shopping and eating!

In the Myeong-dong area, shops and malls fiercely compete for young people's won, the local currency.

The streets are filled with young women with microphones luring customers into the shops.

Seoul has several enormous markets that sell everything under the sun.

My guide Ji Sung takes me through sprawling Namdaemun Market.

It's now 6:00 at night.

I see new people coming and setting up stands.

That's right, this market has a 2 face.

At the daytime, have a wholesalers, and night, from now, there's many street vendors coming in and selling their stuff and also running a tent restaurant.

This is also a very famous dumpling restaurant, and that woman is very famous-- she pack it, and very fast.

(Rudy) What kind of dumplings are these?

(Ji Sung) Has pork and vegetable inside.

(Rudy) Man, they can't get rid of the money fast enough.

There about 12 people in the kitchen making these, bringing them out.

Now we're talking; more supplies have arrived.

Whoo, steaming!

Those will be gone in 10 minutes.

Here we go, here she goes.

(Ji Sung) Yeah, she's really fast.

(Rudy) We gotta watch her.

Look at that.

Oh my god.

Whoa!

One, 2, 3, 4, 5, bring out the plastic bag.

She is good!

(Ji Sung) She only come out when they have a long queue.

Yeah, when they have a long queue, they bring out the professional.

[laughs] Where does ginseng come from?

This is a whole root of ginseng.

This is a root of the ginseng plant.

The root.

I see.

It's cultivated in Korea.

What does it mean, ginseng?

Is there an English translation?

Two Chinese characters stand for ginseng.

We call it "insam."

Ginseng means "human body shape root."

It is sort in a Tim Burton kind of way shaped like a human body.

Well I'm looking at this poster; it says, "enhances brain activity, strengthens the immune system, improves sexual stamina, protects the liver."

It does everything!

That's right.

(Rudy) The population of metropolitan Seoul is about 24 million.

The city proper has 25 districts and 522 neighborhoods.

Thank goodness there's a great way to get around and avoid the traffic.

Seoul's subway system is extensive.

It costs about a buck to get anywhere.

It's fast, clean, and safe.

Korea is an extremely homogenous nation.

It experienced a remarkable 1300 years as a unified and independent country.

But once the country fell, it fell hard.

After 40 years of increasing influence, Japan finally annexed Korea in 1910.

After World War II, Korea was divided by the Allies, and the resulting Korean War ripped the country asunder.

Tensions remain high between North and South.

It's a particularly tough fate because Korea had been unified since the 600's.

♪ ♪ I'm cruising around Hong-Dae, the university district in Seoul, a place fabled for its nightlife.

But don't be fooled by all the partying.

It's common for high school students to attend night classes after school, return home at midnight, and start all over again the next morning.

That's the kind of dedication and hard work that's made this small country the world's 15th largest economy and the 4th largest in Asia.

A night on the town means lots of food.

A common greeting here isn't hello; it's, "Have you eaten rice?"

It oughta be have you eaten kimchi?

This spicy, fermented side dish is ubiquitous, as are dozens of other side dishes with every meal.

Korean food is balanced, healthy, robust, and flavorful.

Suji Park is one of a new generation of Korean women; an entrepreneur and restaurateur in a country long dominated by men.

She and her brother Sung Vin took me to their favorite mudfish restaurant.

I've eaten crabs on the eastern shore of Maryland for decades, but I don't know how to eat this.

Will you show me?

I will show you.

This is cold?

This is cold, marinated.

Pick this up.

You pick it up, and you just suck the meat out basically.

Oh nice.

Good, huh?

Nice!

Crab stew.

Oh my Gosh.

Sung, what do I use this for?

This is for what?

This is sauce for the mudfish.

(Rudy) This is great!

The mudfish fish is fabulous.

Look, I love mudfish fish.

I've never had it like this.

Is this pasta with it?

(Suji) It's not noodle.

It's bean sprouts.

You own your own restaurants.

You have 4 in Seoul and 2 in Tokyo.

Yes I do.

Tell me how women as businesswomen, or business owners in your case, how different it is now than it might've been 20 or 30 years ago for your mother.

Would that have been possible then?

No.

With my case, I don't have any problem being female entrepreneur, and I was just talking to my other female entrepreneur the other day, and she used to work for a newspaper company.

In the early 1980's, there was no woman allowed, actually, to any of those corporations-- only secretaries.

That's not that long ago, the '80s.

No, no, but Korea is so dynamic country.

Have another Soju.

Another Soju, yeah.

Well, it's the only friendly thing to do I guess!

It's like a very mild vodka.

Then I do 2 hands, and you do one hand because I'm younger than you-- it's respect.

Korea is everything about respect for older people.

I'm liking that part because where I live, I don't get a whole lot of respect... no matter what my age.

When you meet somebody, do you ask them what year they were born?

Yes, that's very usual.

Just sort of get where it's all at?

Yup, so what year were you born or how old are you?

Then you decide what to call them.

I'm not supposed to call you by name, Rudy, in Korea.

>>Why?

>>Because I'm supposed to call you "Mr." someone... >>Because I'm older?

Yes.

I'm older than him, so he never calls me Suji in Korea.

What does he call you?

Sister?

He calls me noona, sister.

But if we were close friends, if we knew each other for 10 years, you would call me Rudy.

No.

You would still call me Mr. Maxa?

Actually [speaks Korean], which is like an uncle, or-- I'm sorry.

[laughs] My back is starting to hurt.

I'm starting to feel really old.

We say Kombe!

(all) Kombe!

Oh, you did the second one as a shot as well!

Korea is full of surprises!

[laughs] [man chants in Korean] The next morning I finally find some people who won't call me uncle.

Traditional Seoul wakes to prayers at Buddhist Jogyesa Temple in the center of the city.

Buddhism arrived in Korea via China in the 4th century.

Buddhism is the religion most practiced here, followed closely by Christianity.

♪ ♪ Buddhism and Confucianism dominated society here for centuries.

Confucian beliefs still run strong here in the reverence for education and respect for elrs and for ancestors.

Yet the rigid male dominated culture is cracking, and women are increasingly educated and accepted as members of the work forc In 1394, the Joseon Dynasty, which would reign for 500 years, chose Seoul as its capital.

The Gyeongbokgung Palace was built in an auspicious location at the foot of the mountains surrounding Seoul.

Under the Joseon Dynasty, Confucianism was reestablished as the national philosophy.

[ceremonial drums play] I'm headed south now to discover traditional Korea.

This mountainous country is dotted with impressive temples, serene outposts far from the cities.

When Buddhism arrived in Korea, it merged with the people's Shamanism and worship of nature and spirits.

Because many of the spirits lived in the mountains Buddhist temples were erected in the hills.

Guinsa Temple is one of the most colorful and one of the largest, with hundreds of monks in residence here.

♪ ♪ In an attempt to keep Korean culture alive, the government subsidizes folk villages where people live and work as they did 300 years ago, More than 100 traditional houses cluster around a river at Hahoe Folk Village, a UNESCO World Heritage site, whose name means wandering river.

The residents are all descended from a clan that's lived here since the 17th century.

Their houses reflect the family's traditional status in the clan.

♪ ♪ As I travel back in time in Korea, it's only fitting I spend my first night in one of its most illustrious cities.

Gyeongju is the capital of ancient Silla.

♪ ♪ Gyeongju was named the City of Gold for all its wealth and golden ornaments.

This ancient capital was a renowned center for learning in the arts.

The most striking sight in town are the huge grass mounds, burial tombs for Silla kings and queens.

♪ ♪ The Silla Kingdom lasted for nearly 1000 years, from 57 BC to 935 AD.

In the 600's, it unified Korea under one rule.

It was the Silla who introduced Chinese culture to Japan.

Wh you're in the mood for a bun with red bean paste, there's only one place to come in town.

It's called Hwangnam bread.

Fabulous.

Right out of the oven, lightly toasted.

Oh, opulent, sweet... betcha can't eat just one.

This sweet and savory snack is so popular there's always a line.

People from Seoul order Hwangnam bread and freeze it so they can enjoy these treats all year long.

Mmm.

Korea is very proud of its cultural treasures and ranks them in importance.

Bulguksa Temple on the outskirts of Gyeongju tops the list as historic landmark number one.

The Silla Dynasty established Buddhism as the national religion and was largely responsible for its spread to Japan.

Bulguksa is the Silla Kingdom's tour de force architectural achievement, and monks, both male and female, live and worship here.

Hiking is the national pastime in Korea.

In 2004, the government shortened the work week to 5 days so now more than ever people are heading for the hills.

Korean hikers don't fool around.

They're decked out in the latest gear.

This mountainous country is crisscrossed with hundreds of trails, and hiking clubs are popular.

Don't forget to dust off your boots back at the trailhead.

♪ ♪ Many hikes in Korea involve a mountain temple, and Haeinsa is one of Korea's famed Three Jewels of Buddhism.

♪ ♪ At Haeinsa, the Buddhist Canon is stored on more than 80,000 hand carved wooden printing blocks.

Called the Tripitaka Koreana, these texts were carved in birchwood in the 1200's.

In 1398, a perfectly ventilated and climate controlled storehouse was built to house the tablets, and they remain preserved there to this day.

♪ ♪ The party never ends at a highway rest stop here in Korea.

You get your grilled squid, you can check your email for free at a fully staffed business center, buy yourself a camping stove, and if you gotta really work those kinks out, head on over to the batting cage.

Got a piece of it.

All right.

C'mon, give me your best.

[deep, resonant gong ] That's it?

That's all ya got?

Yeah!

My next stop, Jeonju, is a smaller city than Seoul.

While Gyeongju is an open air museum, Jeonju is lively with university students and is famous for its food.

But smack in the middle of this modern city is a town within a town.

Hundreds of traditional Korean dwellings called hanoks have been restored.

♪ ♪ The first kings of the Joseon Dynasty were born here.

Joseon is translated as The Land of the Morning Calm, and it's become a popular name for Korea.

On the streets of Jeongju, I happen upon an ever-growing crowd of people singing folk songs.

[singing in Korean] ♪ ♪ Jeongju is known as the cuisine capital of Korea, and its signature dish is bibimbap.

There are no plain flavors in Korea.

Everything has something extra.

And a sauce, plenty of sauce.

Right.

So here's the national dish of the national... You basic side dish, kimchi.

Kimchi, can't live without it here.

Does Korean people have kimchi every day, every meal?

Yes we are.

Breakfast too, right?

Uh-hum.

The bibimbap express arrives.

Look at this.

Look at this.

It's like a painting.

It's gorgeous, and it looks very elegant.

Yeah, 21 ingredients in one bowl.

There are 21 ingredients in it?

21 different vegetable and...

So what is in here?

I'm about to mix this all around.

I've got, looks like chili paste?

Chili paste, egg, breaded kimchi, rolled beef hearts.

Garlic, mushroom?

Yeah.

Um, zucchini.

Rice, obviously.

Okay.

Delicious.

Um-hum.

♪ ♪ Hanji, traditional Korean paper, is made from the bark of the mulberry tree.

Introduced to Korea from China, the art of papermaking spread from here to Japan.

Hanji paper can last for more than 1000 years.

♪ ♪ As you can see from the racks here, there's all kinds of gorgeous colored paper.

There's a rainbow, a rainbow of wrapping paper that's available here, and if people wrote letters anymore, they'd find some great stationary here in about 30 different colors with matching envelopes.

A paper fan, of which there are many designs because it gets really hot here in Korea in the summer.

[woman sings in Korean] ♪ ♪ (Rudy) In the evenings, people gather for a performance of pansori, a kind of narrative folk opera whose roots can be traced back to Shamanistic rites.

♪ ♪ [audience laughter] ♪ ♪ [applause] Back in Seoul, Ji Sung invites me to his home, where in traditional Korean fashion, 3 generations of Kims live together.

(woman) When I was a little girl, there is no apartments in Seoul.

Everybody lives in a small house with their families.

Because of that, it becomes very difficult to make our traditional foods in the apartment.

It's a big difference I think.

Now why do you have a separate refrigerator for kimchi?

In the past time, we use the same refrigerator, but the kimchi smell is in the refrigerator.

So we need another one.

So this is only for kimchi?

Ah, ooh... (Jin Young) I made kimchi with cucumbers.

Did your mother teach you how to make kimchi?

Yeah, especially mother-in-law teach me.

Now you're a mother-in-law; are you teaching your daughter-in-law how to make kimchi?

Yeah.

How about your daughter?

Daughter, I want to teach her, but she doesn't want it.

Thank you for showing me your kimchi refrigerator.

You're welcome.

I gotta get me one of these.

Home for me is the Park Hyatt Seoul where the city is literally at your feet.

In this sleek, upside-down hotel,ul where the the lobby and pool are at the top, on the 24th floor, with striking views of Seoul day and night.

I've seen The Land of the Morning Calm, and now I've returned to the land of night time restlessness, and the first place I head is the Gwangjang food market.

Food writer Daniel Gray has been living in Seoul for 3 years, and Gwangjang is one of his favorite haunts.

Daniel, what's going on here?

Oh, this is bindaeddeok.

Basically what they're doing is, they're getting mung beans, which are before bean sprouts sprout, that's what the beans look like, and they put it through this stone grinder.

And in the bottom, you see this paste down here?

What they'll do is they'll take this stuff and they'll mix it together, and they'll kind of make a pancake.

They're going to crisp it up in a lot of oil.

Dip it in the sauce.

(Rudy) I'll put it in the sauce here.

(Daniel) Take it off.

Mmm.

Oh yeah.

(Daniel) Nice, right?

First of all, it's fried so you know it's good.

But it's really good!

I'm gonna have one more bite just to make sure it's really that good.

(Daniel) It is.

So is this a main course or a side dish?

(Daniel) It's something that you have with alcohol.

When you're out with friends and you're having a couple drinks, this is what they'll eat.

Nibbles.

Yeah, nibbles.

Let's go visit my favorite banchan guy, side dish guy.

(Rudy) Ooh, there are a lot of side dishes here.

Oh, I love these crabs here.

(Daniel) Oh, these are so good.

This is called kanjang gaejang.

It's soy marinated crab.

Oh, fabulous.

So you marinate it in crabs, and inside it's like really gelatinous and succulent-- really good.

They're kind of like popcorn shrimp except they're crab.

Mmm-mm!

(Daniel) Korean food, you're going to have lots of little, tiny side dishes.

That's why there's so many different colors.

They correspond to healing in different parts of yourself.

So if you're supposed to eat something red, you're supposed to balance it out with something black, something white.

(Rudy) Something green?

(Daniel) Something green, yeah.

Everything is really good.

(Rudy) I think he's got all the basic color groups here.

There's a tradition in Seoul of good food followed by, well, a room.

Bang means room in Korean, and there are bangs for everything here.

You can watch a movie in a private DVD bang, or play computer games in a PC bang... ♪ ♪ [man sings] (Rudy) ...or you can sing with your friends in a norae bang.

Somehow the quiet beauty and ancient customs of the countryside don't feel at odds with life in the big city.

It's a bit like the Koreans themselves.

Yes, they love their country, they're devoted to family and have a deep reverence for their elders, but that doesn't stop them from embracing the latest fashion fads or footwear.

Nationalistic and proud, with roots reaching deep into the past and open arms to the future, is there anything the kind, enthusiastic determined people of Korea can't do?

24/7 shopping, batting cages at highway rest stops, and coffee shops in every block--what a country!

Reporting from Korea, I'm Rudy Maxa.

Annyong.

Some of Korea's elaborate mountain temples offer temple stays for guests, but you have to observe the monks' rights, which means getting up very early in the morning and doing chores.

The food is simple and healthy, and finding yourself alone with a chanting monk, or gazing at the elaborate and colorful temple art and the serene face of the Buddha can make normal life feel miles away.

English is not as widely spoken in Korea as in other Asian countries, but there's a lot of signage in English, including some very amusing shop names.

Who wouldn't want to visit a store called Happy Virus?

Teenagers like to sport T-shirts with fractured English phrases.

Luckily the subway is easy to use, and stops are listed in English.

If you want to take a taxicab around town, there's a free translation service.

Dial a free number on your cell phone, tell the operator in English where you want to go, hand the phone to the cabdriver, and off you go.

(woman) For links and photos of the places featured in "Rudy Maxa's World," and other savvy traveling tips, visit maxa.tv.

To order DVDs of "Rudy Maxa's World," visit maxa.tv.

♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ CC--Armour Captioning & TPT (woman) Funding for "Rudy Maxa's World" is provided by the following... (woman) Orbitz salutes the neverending spirit of adventure and as a proud sponsor of "Rudy Maxa's World" Orbitz offers comprehensive information on the world's great destinations.

From custom vacation packages to in-depth mobile tools your trip begins on Orbitz.

Take vacation back!

[Korean janggu drums play in bright rhythm] (man) Korea, be one with earth and sky.

(woman) And by Delta, serving hundreds of destinations worldwide.

Information to plan your next trip available at delta.com.

[orchestral fanfare] ♪ ♪