

Lazio
Season 1 Episode 106 | 26m 28sVideo has Closed Captions
Street art district; the Pyramid; Palazzo Colonna; medieval Viterbo; and ghost village.
Off-the-beaten-path Rome includes the street art district, the Pyramid, and the magnificent Palazzo Colonna. Alessandra introduces viewers to an eccentric artist who invented a language to describe his fantasy world, then travels to an ancient mint in medieval Viterbo. Finally, she tours a ghost village with a local chef and choreographer, and attends a charming tamburella concert.
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Passion Italy is presented by your local public television station.
Distributed nationally by American Public Television

Lazio
Season 1 Episode 106 | 26m 28sVideo has Closed Captions
Off-the-beaten-path Rome includes the street art district, the Pyramid, and the magnificent Palazzo Colonna. Alessandra introduces viewers to an eccentric artist who invented a language to describe his fantasy world, then travels to an ancient mint in medieval Viterbo. Finally, she tours a ghost village with a local chef and choreographer, and attends a charming tamburella concert.
Problems with Closed Captions? Closed Captioning Feedback
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- [Narattor] In the heart of Barolo lies Cantine Oddero Winery.
Today, the sixth generation of the Oderros continue the family tradition of producing wines from ancient vines in Piemontese terror.
Oderro wines since 1878.
- [Narrator] Victor Rallo and chef Dave Pasternack's Esca restaurant in New York City's Theater District.
Serving contemporary Italian coastal cuisine.
Crudo, fresh fish, prime meats, and pasta.
Dishes rooted in the simplicity of Italian flavors.
Esca, New York City.
- [Narrator] The Magaldi group.
STEM, solar thermo-electric Magaldi.
(upbeat rock music) (slow music) - [Narrator] Alessandra Polly has spent her life traveling the world and sharing stories of her adventures as a TV producer.
Now she'll explore her homeland and offer a look at the Italy tourists don't see.
- Rome, the city where I was born never stops to amaze me.
Art, culture, history but most of all is very passionate people.
Follow me on passion Italy and I show you the real Italy.
(upbeat music) - [Narrator] The real Italy, it's a love for stunning landscapes.
The creativity to transform a fantasy world into art.
The sole to give voice to a regional folk traditions, the magic of old coin minting, the fascination of Roman aristocracy and tasting some of the most mouth-watering creative food in all of Italy.
- On today's Passion Italy, we will travel to Lazio, a region in Italy center, home to the majestic Rome, the capital, cradle of Western civilization and Christian culture.
Lazio is a multitude of matchless attraction.
Why not discover them together.
Follow me on Passion Italy.
(instrumental music) (classical music) - [Narrator] Although many travelers skip over Lazio on their way to Tuscany Umbria it's a mistake.
This beautiful region in central Italy bordered by the Turanian sea features unblemished scenery and spectacular horizons that will surprise the visitor.
(classical music) How can we possibly count its many captivating towns, villages and archeological sites.
(classical music) With the fall of the Western Roman Empire in 476 AD after centuries of fighting against local lords, the state of the church finally gained a total supremacy over Lazio and its surrounding territories.
(classical music) In the 18th century, Lazio was a major port of call in the Grand Tour when travelers explored its scenic villages now largely overlooked in favor of its capital, Rome.
(upbeat music) Exploring lots you can immeasurably broaden one's understanding of the Roman Empire and its legacy.
(upbeat music) Our journey will begin in Rome.
We will head north to reach the medieval town of Viterbo and then continue to the hamlet of Oriolo Romano.
On the southeast, we'll visit the village of Genazzano.
(upbeat music) (strong beat music) It has been argued for centuries whether or not it is the most beautiful city in Italy or even the world.
Rome is unique for its sheer mass of treasures in history, art and architecture.
If you can get past Rome's famous monuments, there are plenty of picturesque views and hidden nooks which will astonish you.
Chaotic, crowded, noisy with buildings smashed up together, a throng of people swaying like the water of Viterbo.
Such is the center of Rome.
It looks like a spectacle of today but it was always like this.
This place has been lived in since the 7th century BC.
(fast paced music) (classical music) For a long time the business of Rome and the fate of the church were linked to a group of noble families, which gave birth to Cardinals and popes from the middle ages to the modern age.
Their sumptuous palaces and vast art collections still bear witness today of their former magnificence and power.
(classical Music) The Colonna family is one of the most ancient Roman families whose history dates back 900 years.
(classical music) Alessandra will take you inside their magnificence 13th century palace in the center of Rome.
It contains one of the most mind-blowing private art collections in the world.
(classical music) - So Patrissa, tell me something about the history of this palace.
- Yes, with pleasure because it's always a pleasure.
I think the most interesting thing about this palace that this is like a sort of promenade over the centuries.
The first thing to know is that this is still a private property belonging to the same original noble family of the princess Colonna.
- Does the family Colonna still live in the palace.
- Oh yes, they are still living in the palace.
(instrumental music) In the 900 years of the existence of the family, they became Cardinals, 22 ancestors of the family and one of these became also pope in the early 15th century, so the Palazzo Colonna became also the papal seat.
(classical music) The grandmother of the actual princess, the princess Isabelle during the Second World War saved all the collection because she had hidden all the sculptures, all the paintings in a secret places of the palace.
And so if we can admire nowadays all these massive pieces, we must be very very grateful to her.
And also she transferred this passion for the preservation of collection of the palace so that all the descendants got from her.
(classical music) From the same door that you are passing through, the famous actress, Audrey Hepburn passes in the 1953 when the movie, the famous movie Roman holidays was shot inside this gallery.
This gray gallery was built expressly to house the collection of sculptures and paintings and that's the uniqueness of this palace.
(classical music) - [Narrator] The Baroque Piazza Navona with its celebrated fountain by Bernini is the perfect stage to meet a contemporary and eclectic artist, Luigi Serafini.
His codex Sarahfey jnanam is an unbelievable work of art and fantasy.
Written in fictional language with over 1,000 original drawings.
It's considered one of the most bizarre books ever printed.
(instrumental music) - The Codex and Rome are same for me.
I had the privilege of being born here because Roma is the beginning.
Is the beginning of everything and creates an incredible fascination.
Roma is like a museum, every corner, every street, there are images, the suggestions.
The names of the streets brings inspirations.
Everything seems to be created as a site for a childish soul.
(instrumental music) So at the moment the first the images of the Codex appear.
Since then, I realized there was my mission to make a kind of encyclopedia of my imaginary world or my fantasy.
(instrumental music) The 19th century was the century when many artists, writer, poets, painters made what was called at the time Grand tour, to travel throughout Italy and to end their trip in Rome.
So the Codex in a way is a tribute for the grand tour I was involved for so many years.
Growing up in Rome, that's the beginning of the story of the caucus.
When I felt that my mission was this Grand tour into my fantasy, I had to find the language to describe the places where I was going to, the animals I was seeing.
That language was very difficult to find.
So a certain moment I decide to invented writing.
Perfect to describe things that I was drawing and I didn't know what they were.
That writing is a writing that is hidden in all our writings the way you shape the letters hide secret, which is your secret.
I freed myself from the cage so I could redefine my secret writing.
This combination of the fantastic images and unknown writing create a sort of short circuit and create a kind of suspension of understanding.
I could even describe the codex as an act of passion.
Passion for the unfinished, fascination for something which is not yet.
The journey finished only because the publisher said that had to stop.
This interruption was an artificial interruption.
The Codex never finished.
There is always the Codex inside of me.
The Codex is me.
(instrumental music) (Bee buzzing) (slow music) - [Narrator] Heading north along the ancient Via Cassia, you get to the Tuscia area, which is also known as Etruscan country.
This green and welcoming land is an enviable position between Umbria and Tuscany.
With its unspoiled medieval villages and ancient traditions, it's a perfect day trip destination for escaping the hectic pace of the capital.
(slow music) Hidden below this land is also a liquid treasure, which originates in the depths of Monte Giannini, the thermal springs.
Etruscans were already aware of their healing properties.
The Romans fully appreciated them making the best of this valuable natural resource for their health.
(slow music) Viterbo's intact to a medieval heart called Sanpellegrino, sits within 12th century walls.
It's one of the best-preserved centers in Italy from this era.
It has remained practically unchanged over the centuries.
(slow music) Walking around in this charming setting with its courts, towers and palaces all made in peperino marble, you feel like the time machine took you back to the middle ages.
(slow music) In the 13th century Viterbo was at its peak.
After the death of Frederick II, the city became the seat of the papal court.
(slow music) The curia resided in the gothic papal palace, which was built near San Lorenzo Cathedral.
Today the Loggia delle Benedizioni with its buttresses and crenelations is the city's icon.
From that balcony, the Pope used to bless the crowd after his election.
(slow music) Here, the longest Conclave in the history of the Catholic Church was held for three full years from 1268 to 1271.
(slow music) Sitting in a bar surrounded by old palaces in front of a good cappuccino is the ideal way to enjoy the soul of this pretty town.
(slow music) Marco Guliani is the perfect guide to deeply explore Viterbo's fascinating history.
(instrumental music) Marco is an impassioned sculptor, artist and most of all, a numismatist or expert in coins.
All his coins are designed and made by hand.
In his ancient Minton museum, he will show you how they used to make coins in the Middle Ages.
(instrumental music) (foreign language) (instrumental music) (foreign language) (classical music) - [Narrator] The first impression that strikes a visitor arriving in Oriolo is its timeless atmosphere.
(instrumental music) In the city center, nothing appears to have changed from the last century.
(classical music) The women of the town still use the old public wash tubs to do the laundry, just as it was once upon a time.
The city square is dominated by the magnificent Palazzo Alterity.
Its facade is still intact just as it was at the time of its construction in 1578.
(classical music) History is not the only true wealth on display in this village.
Nearby unparalleled natural beauty offers the visitor the opportunity to enjoy the science and feel the mysteries that filter throughout.
(slow music) Andrea Cagneti takes Alessandra on a tour a few miles away from Oriolo in one of the most spectacular spots in the area, Canale Monterano.
(classical music) Set in a natural park, the ghost village retains a mysterious charm, almost magical.
(classical music) The Roman aqueduct, the first defense tower and tumbledown palaces all count toward an old and troubled history.
(classical music) For over 200 years, noble families quarrelled continuously including the Colonna.
(classical music) The Great Master Bernini designed the fountain and the Church of San Buenaventura.
(classical music) The village was destroyed by the French in 1799 and abandoned then vegetation took over.
(classical music) While ambling through history, Andrea tells Alessandra his story divided between choreography and cuisine.
(foreign language) (slow music) (foreign language) (slow music) (foreign language) (slow music) (classical music) - [Narrator] About 40 miles from the city of Rome lies Genazzano.
It is characterized by the beauty of its medieval hamlet which is only surpassed by the prominent Palazzo Colonna.
(classical music) The origins of Genazzano date back to the time of the Roman emperors.
Because of its proximity to Rome, the city was chosen by many Imperial courtiers as a site for their country villas.
(classical music) Pope Martin V, the only Pope from the Colonna family was born in Genazzano and used to come here often.
(classical music) In a small valley near the main gate, the Colonna built a sacred building called the Nymphaea del Bramante.
Although no firm evidence has ever been found of the involvement of that architect, more than likely it was never actually completed.
The remaining walls have the appearance of ancient ruins but the sera Liana design of the arches is typical of 16th century Renaissance construction.
(classical music) Gianni Girardi is a leather artisan but his love for traditional and regional music led him to create his own instrument, the tambourella, which is now famous all over the Italian peninsula.
(classical music) (foreign language) (cultural music) (foreign language) (cultural music) (applause) - The Eternal City and is fascinating surroundings have so many more tales to tell, so much passion to share and beauty to uncover.
Where to go next, don't miss next episode of Passion Italy.
(upbeat music) - [Announcer] Funding for this series has been provided by the following.
- [Narattor] In the heart of Barolo lies Cantine Oddero Winery.
Today, the sixth generation of the Oderros continue the family tradition of producing wines from ancient vines in Piemontese terror.
Oderro wines since 1878.
- [Narrator] Victor Rallo and chef Dave Pasternack's Esca restaurant in New York City's Theater District.
Serving contemporary Italian coastal cuisine.
Crudo, fresh fish, prime meats, and pasta.
Dishes rooted in the simplicity of Italian flavors.
Esca, New York City.
- [Narrator] The Magaldi group.
STEM, solar thermo-electric Magaldi.
(upbeat rock music) (grand music)
Passion Italy is presented by your local public television station.
Distributed nationally by American Public Television