♪ ♪ -I'm Alessandra Poli.

I'm Italian, and I've been traveling to every corner of Italy, discovering the hidden gems of this beautiful country.

"Passion Italy" is my way to share them with you.

♪ The real Italy -- it's a love for stunning landscapes, the creativity to transform stainless steel into art... the soul to give a new voice to pastoral instruments... the magic of a thousand-year-old trade... and tasting some of the best traditional cheese in the region.

If you want to experience the real feeling of discovery, Molise is the place to go.

With its art, history, age-old traditions, nature, and amazing food, this region will certainly captivate you.

♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ [ Tires screech ] ♪ ♪ Molise is situated in South Central Italy and lies between the Apennines and the Adriatic Sea.

Our journey in this wild region will start in the pretty town of Agnone.

Campobasso, the first capital of Molise, is our next stop.

Then we will move on to ancient Isernia, ending our trip in Scapoli.

Molise is a land of unspoiled nature, stunningly diverse landscapes, mountains and hills with a wealth of little gems scattered all over the territory.

Its archaeological sites, peaceful abbeys, and countless castles tell the tale of a thousand years of history and culture -- a recipe for travelers wishing to explore Italy in an offbeat manner.

The region is scored by the characteristic tratturi, or historic trails of seasonal migration of people and livestock that connect the pastures of Abruzzo to those of Apulia.

The farmers, practicing transhumance, had their own customs, cuisine, and handicrafts -- a heritage that still survives today.

That's why Molise was described by the Italian writer Antonio Fogazzaro as an "old-fashioned world."

But that's one of the reasons that make Molise the new cool.

[ Insects chirping ] Agnone is a pretty hilltop town.

It has been dubbed the "Athens of Samnium" due to its archaeological and cultural heritage.

It was renowned since the Middle Ages as a prosperous center of various crafts.

Agnone was, in fact, specialized in the production of sacred bronzes, which included statues that adorned the Samnite temples.

The Samnite were the original people of Molise, constantly clashing with ancient Rome.

[ Bell clanging ] The city of Agnone's main claim to fame is for being home to the oldest continuously family-owned company in the world, the Pontifical Bell Foundry Marinelli.

The foundry has been recognized as a UNESCO entity.

As Armando Marinelli tells me, this invaluable legacy includes not only the tools and techniques, but also some natural abilities of the craftsmen.

♪ -[ Speaking Italian ] ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ -The purity and intensity of the "voice" is really important.

That's why a bell scale was developed by Tommaso Marinelli in the 1700s, and it's still used today.

[ Bells clanging at different pitches ] ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ -[ Speaking Italian ] -Santa Maria!

-Santa Maria!

♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ [ Bells chiming ] ♪ -Traveling in Molise is really akin to going on a treasure hunt.

The Italic sanctuary of Pietrabbondante at only 10 miles away from Agnone is a real one.

It is the most important Samnite worship site of ancient Molise.

Its main function was religious, but it was also intended as a forum for political assemblies.

Weapons uncovered on the site in the 19th century are evidence that it was the scene of numerous battles, mostly against the Romans.

The stunning, monumental Temple B theater complex dates from the late 2nd century B.C.

The theater, which could contain up to 2,500 viewers, is bordered by an imposing wall.

The highest part had wooden seats while, in the lower part, five rows of stone seats still survive.

In some of them, the shaped backs and arms in the form of griffon's feet are still visible.

[ Cow lows ] ♪ Agnone has another incredible family story to expose.

I'm talking about the Di Nucci family.

Antonio is a cheese maker, as per family tradition since 1662.

Even his ancestors were shepherds practicing their transhumance and, of course, cheese makers.

Their products are made with the same care, love, and techniques used in the past, presently, of course, respecting all the latest health regulations.

Their hospitality and warmth are comparable to the quality and taste of their cheese appreciated on the world's finest tables.

[ Conversing in Italian ] ♪ [ Cow moos ] ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ -Campobasso is set between the Sannio and Matese mountains which belie natural beauty and charm.

While the energy level might be lower than the major Italian cities, its uniqueness and hospitality does not fall short.

Campobasso's recent history goes along with its traditional Italian lore.

Walking down the cobblestone streets and alleys framed by trees, you can admire the remnants of the different peoples who conquered the city over the centuries.

I meet Antonio Muccino in one of Campobasso's primary attractions -- the Monforte Castle, built in the 1400s.

It was reconstructed several times after having been damaged by multiple earthquakes.

Campobasso is famous all over the world for its hand-made chiseled steel scissors, with their incredible and various designs.

The art of steel processing in Molise dates back to the 15th century, but it was only at the end of the 18th century that a new technique was introduced allowing artisans to make intricate designs in steel.

Today there are only few craftsmen able to create real works of art with this uncommon material.

Antonio Muccino is among them, and even though he is working full-time in a cement factory, he dedicates all his spare time to this art, keeping it alive.

His works are incredibly refined and elaborate.

♪ ♪ -[ Speaking Italian ] ♪ ♪ [ Insects chirping ] ♪ -If you're looking for traces of the past and you feel like getting lost in ancient history, then you should visit the site of Altilia Sepino.

It is an incredibly well-preserved ancient town of the Roman province, as it is visible by the urban design with the city walls, the defense towers, and the four stunning access doorways.

From them, you can still access the area.

The first settlement of Sepinum was founded by the Samnite population around the 4th and the 5th century B.C., and only later the Romans gave it the existing layout.

You can stroll along the decuman, the main street, or just contemplate the extraordinary basilica, outlined by columns in Doric style.

The most interesting and original part is the theater, which was built in the 1st century and could hold over 3,000 spectators.

The theater was remodeled over time, and the 18th-century residences are only the last layer on the Samnite original temple.

♪ [ Bird screeches ] ♪ Isernia is a town with roots stretching back to the pre-Roman Samnites time.

One of the city's highlights is the Fontana Fraterna, built between the 13th and the 14th centuries and dedicated to Pope Celestine V, a distinctive native son of Isernia.

The town's fame is owed to the traditional embroidery with bobbin lace, whose origins goes back to the 1300s.

This activity has been handed down over the centuries from mother to daughter.

♪ Lidia Tedeschi is driven by a strong passion to teach a new generation this amazing art.

Visiting the Costume Museum is a trip down memory lane, an insight into the soul and origin of the Molisan people who, in their simplicity, were rich in creativity as exemplified in their traditional costumes.

The collection, with its 35 costumes coming from different villages of Molise, was collected by Antonio Scasserra, who dedicated his life to meticulously researching these traditional outfits.

These are women's costumes because in a society that used to practice transhumance, women had a central role in every sphere of life.

After the Second World War, the traditional dress was progressively abandoned due to the emancipation of women in the agricultural society.

Beside the stunning beauty and diversity of these costumes, what was really intriguing was the universe of complex symbols in every element of their dress.

Only by focusing on one detail such as the hairpin could you determine the marital status of the woman.

With over 1,000 objects on display, the jewelry exhibition is also spectacular.

♪ [ Bagpipes playing ] A winding road takes me to Scapoli, a charming hilltop town in the province of Isernia.

Everything here brings you back to the reason why Scapoli is well known all over the world -- bagpipes.

It is the only city in Italy where master craftsmen still produce bagpipes, following ancient methods and techniques.

Visiting the International Museum of the Zampogna, or Bagpipes, is a must.

Christian di Fiore, musician and composer, is my exclusive guide here.

Playing the bagpipes is almost a genetic trait for the Di Fiore family, but Christian does it in his own revolutionary way.

♪ -[ Speaking Italian ] ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ -The Abbey of San Vincenzo al Volturno is another incredible archaeological site to explore.

Founded in the 8th century, it was a rich religious center of the Benedictine order, considered one of the most important medieval monastic complexes in Europe.

The crypt of the Abbot Epifanio is definitely the treasure trove of the site.

It is decorated with frescoes considered among the most important from the Early Middle Ages.

In the 11th century, the monastery was completely dismantled and carried across the other bank of the river to be reconstructed.

♪ It's time to say goodbye to this wonderful land and its marvelous people for heading on to our next destination, but stay tuned on "Passion Italy."

♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ "Passion Italy" is a deep dive into Italian culture and excellence, and I'll show you the Italy you've never seen before.

♪ ♪ Come with me on "Passion Italy," for the people, the places, and the passion!

♪ ♪