HOLA, I'M RICK STEVES, BACK WITH MORE OF THE BEST OF EUROPE.

THIS TIME WE'RE PARADING THROUGH SOME OF THE HIGHLIGHTS OF SOUTHERN SPAIN -- THANKS FOR JOINING US!

PERCHED HERE ON THE ROCK OF GIBRALTAR, I CAN JUST ABOUT SEE EVERYTHING WE'LL VISIT IN THIS EPISODE.

THIS IS THE ONLY PLACE IN THE WORLD WHERE YOU CAN SEE TWO SEAS AND TWO CONTINENTS AT THE SAME TIME.

AND WHEN ALL THIS NATURAL AND CULTURAL EXCITEMENT CHURNS TOGETHER, YOU KNOW YOU'RE IN FOR SOME GREAT SIGHTSEEING.

WE'LL ENJOY ICONS OF ANDALUCIA -- PRANCING HORSES, WHITEWASHED HILL TOWNS, KITE SURFING ON SUNNY BEACHES.

WE'LL SUMMIT THE ROCK OF GIBRALTAR WITH ITS THIEVING APES, AND SAMPLE MOROCCO, FROM TRIBAL MUSICIANS AND BUSY ARTISANS TO THE MAGIC OF ITS MARKETS.

IN THE FAR SOUTHWEST OF EUROPE IS SPAIN.

AND IN THE FAR SOUTH OF SPAIN LIES THE REGION OF ANDALUCIA.

FROM JEREZ, WE TRAVEL THE ROUTE OF THE WHITEWASHED HILL TOWNS TO RONDA.

THEN, AFTER VISITING GIBRALTAR AND TARIFA, WE CROSS THE STRAIT TO AFRICA FOR A MOROCCAN FINALE IN TANGIER.

ANDALUCIA'S HERITAGE IS ALIVE IN TODAY'S CULTURE AND IT EXPRESSES ITSELF IN ICONIC THEMES.

THE TOWN OF JEREZ IS FAMOUS FOR THREE OF THEM -- DAZZLING HORSES, VELVETY SHERRY, AND A SPRING FAIR THAT BRINGS OUT THE ENTIRE COMMUNITY FOR A WEEK-LONG PARTY.

ORIGINALLY A HORSE FAIR, WHEN THE SHERRY PRODUCERS JOINED IN IT GOT REALLY BIG.

TODAY, THE JEREZ FAIR IS A VAST COLLECTION OF OVER 200 CASETAS, OR TENTS, EACH OWNED BY A FAMILY OR LOCAL BUSINESS WHO HOST PARTIES UNTIL LATE INTO THE NIGHT.

FOR LOCALS, THE FAIR, WHICH TAKES PLACE EARLY EACH MAY, KICKS OFF THE SUMMER SEASON.

DURING THE DAY, THE FAIRGROUNDS ARE JANGLING WITH FANCY CARRIAGES.

IT'S ALL ABOUT FINE ANDALUSIAN HORSES AND THE PROUD TRADITIONS THEY REPRESENT.

WOMEN, DRESSED IN THEIR PEACOCK FINERY, SEEM READY TO BREAK INTO DANCE AT THE CLICK OF A CASTANET.

JUST DOWN THE STREET, THE ROYAL ANDALUSIAN SCHOOL OF EQUESTRIAN ART PROVIDES A FOUNDATION FOR THIS CULTURE OF HORSES.

PERFORMANCES PACK ITS ARENA SEVERAL TIMES A WEEK.

THIS IS EXQUISITE HORSEMANSHIP.

THE STERN RIDERS AND THEIR OBEDIENT STEEDS PERFORM TO THE DELIGHT OF BOTH TOURISTS AND HORSE AFICIONADOS.

THE RIDERS CUE THE HORSES WITH THE SLIGHTEST OF COMMANDS, WHETHER VERBAL OR WITH BODY MOVEMENTS.

THE HORSES ARE BRED AND TRAINED TO BE BALANCED AND FOCUSED, BOTH PHYSICALLY AND MENTALLY.

THE EQUESTRIAN SCHOOL FUNCTIONS LIKE A UNIVERSITY, OPEN TO STUDENTS FROM AROUND THE WORLD.

[ CLAPPING RHYTHMICALLY ] AND ALL OVER JEREZ, SHERRY BODEGAS WELCOME VISITORS.

JUST AROUND THE CORNER FROM THE HORSE SCHOOL, THE VENERABLE SANDEMAN WINERY HAS BEEN PRODUCING SHERRY SINCE 1790.

TOURS EXPLAIN HOW THE STACKED BARRELS ARE PART OF THE PRODUCTION PROCESS.

IN A TIME-HONORED TRADITION, NEW WINE IS BLENDED WITH AGED WINE, WHICH IS THEN FORTIFIED WITH ALCOHOL.

THE VINTNER SHARES HIS PRODUCT WITH A PASSION AND FINESSE THAT MIRRORS THE RICHNESS OF THE SHERRY TRADITION.

AND THE CROWD-PLEASING FINALE OF EVERY TOUR IS A CHANCE TO SAVOR THE FINISHED SHERRY.

NEARBY, IN THE MOUNTAINOUS INTERIOR, THE ROUTE OF THE PUEBLOS BLANCOS LACES TOGETHER A CHARACTERISTIC STRING OF WHITEWASHED HILL TOWNS.

WHETHER CROUCHING IN A RAVINE OR PERCHED ATOP A HILL, EACH TOWN, PAINTED WHITE TO STAY COOL IN THE SCORCHING SUMMERS, HAS A PERSONALITY AND A STORY OF ITS OWN.

ZAHARA, SET UNDER ITS IMPOSING CASTLE, WAS A MOORISH STRONGHOLD IN THE 13th CENTURY.

LIKE SO MANY SIGHTS IN ANDALUCIA, TO UNDERSTAND ZAHARA, A LITTLE HISTORICAL BACKGROUND HELPS.

IN THE EIGHTH CENTURY, MUSLIM MOORS FROM NORTH AFRICA INVADED SPAIN AND RULED HERE UNTIL THE 15th CENTURY.

THE LONG STRUGGLE BY CHRISTIAN FORCES TO PUSH THE MOORS BACK SOUTH AND EVENTUALLY RECONQUER THIS PART OF EUROPE WAS CALLED THE "RECONQUISTA."

AND IN THE RECONQUISTA, ZAHARA WAS A STRATEGIC PRIZE.

TODAY ZAHARA IS A DELIGHT TO EXPLORE.

THE TOUR IS QUICK -- A CHURCH, A PLAZA, A FEW SLEEPY RESTAURANTS... AND A GRAND VIEW.

THE DRAMATIC ROAD LINKING THE TOWNS CUTS THROUGH THE SIERRA DE GRAZALEMA NATURAL PARK.

THIS PARK IS FAMED THROUGHOUT SPAIN FOR ITS LUSH AND RUGGED MOUNTAIN SCENERY.

THE QUEEN OF THE WHITE TOWNS IS ARCOS DE LA FRONTERA.

ARCOS SMOTHERS ITS HILLTOP, TUMBLING DOWN ITS BACK LIKE THE TRAIN OF A WEDDING DRESS.

THE OLD CENTER IS A DELIGHT TO EXPLORE.

VIEWPOINT-HOP ALL THE WAY THROUGH TOWN.

THE PEOPLE OF ARCOS BOAST THAT ONLY THEY SEE THE BACKS OF THE BIRDS AS THEY FLY.

FEEL THE WIND FUNNEL THROUGH THE NARROW STREETS AS CARS INCH AROUND TIGHT CORNERS.

DRIVING IS TRICKY.

IT'S A ONE-WAY SYSTEM -- IF YOU MISS YOUR HOTEL, YOU'LL CIRCLE ALL THE WAY AROUND AGAIN.

UNDER THE CASTLE AND FACING THE CHURCH IS THE TOWN'S MAIN SQUARE, WHICH ONCE DOUBLED AS A BULLRING.

TOWNS LIKE ARCOS WITH "DE LA FRONTERA" IN THEIR NAMES WERE ESTABLISHED "ON THE FRONTIER" -- THAT WAS ON THE FRONT LINES DURING THAT CENTURIES-LONG FIGHT TO TAKE SPAIN BACK FROM THE MUSLIMS.

AS THE MOORS WERE SLOWLY PUSHED BACK INTO NORTH AFRICA, THE TOWNS, WHILE NO LONGER OF ANY STRATEGIC IMPORTANCE, KEPT "ON THE FRONTIER" IN THEIR NAMES.

THE MAIN CHURCH IS A REMINDER OF THAT RECONQUEST.

AFTER CHRISTIAN FORCES RETOOK ARCOS, IT WAS THE SAME OLD STORY -- THE MOSQUE WAS DEMOLISHED AND A CHURCH WAS BUILT ON ITS RUINS.

ANOTHER SHORT DRIVE TAKES US TO THE BIGGEST WHITEWASHED TOWN ON THE ROUTE, RONDA, WITH NEARLY 40,000 PEOPLE.

WHILE CROWDED WITH DAY-TRIPPING TOURISTS FROM THE NEARBY COSTA DEL SOL, EARLY AND LATE IN THE DAY, LOCALS RETAKE THEIR STREETS AND SQUARES.

RONDA IS FAMOUS FOR ITS GORGE-STRADDLING SETTING.

ITS BREATH-TAKING PERCH, WHILE VISUALLY DRAMATIC TODAY, WAS PRACTICAL AND VITAL WHEN IT WAS BUILT.

FOR THE MOORS, IT PROVIDED A TOUGH BASTION, ONE OF THE LAST TO BE CONQUERED BY THE SPANIARDS IN 1485.

THE RAVINE DIVIDES RONDA INTO ITS OLD MOORISH TOWN AND THE RELATIVELY MODERN NEW TOWN WHICH WAS BUILT AFTER THE CHRISTIAN RECONQUEST.

THE TWO TOWNS WERE CONNECTED BY THIS BRIDGE IN THE LATE 1700s.

PART OF THE JOY OF RONDA LIES IN EXPLORING THE TWISTED LANES OF ITS MOORISH QUARTER.

AS YOU WANDER AMONG ITS BEAUTIFUL BALCONIES AND EXUBERANT FLOWERPOTS, EACH CORNER REVEALS YET ANOTHER SURPRISE.

THIS CLIFFSIDE MANSION COMES WITH A BELLE EPOQUE GARDEN.

AND FROM THE GARDEN AN EVOCATIVE STAIRCASE LEADS TO THE FLOOR OF THE GORGE.

IT WAS DUG SEVEN CENTURIES AGO BY THE MOORS TO ACCESS WATER.

IMAGINE CHRISTIAN SLAVES HAULING WATER IN LEATHER BAGS UP THESE STAIRS ALL DAY LONG.

THE LANDING WHERE THE STAIRCASE FINALLY HITS THE RIVER MARKS A LEGENDARY TURNING POINT IN RONDA'S HISTORY.

IN 1485, RECONQUISTA FORCES TOOK CONTROL OF THIS -- THE CITY'S WATER SOURCE.

AND WITHIN TEN DAYS, THIRSTY RONDA ABOVE SURRENDERED.

AT THE BASE OF THE TOWN IS THE OLD BRIDGE, SOME SURVIVING BITS OF THE OLD MOORISH CITY WALLS, AND THE REMAINS OF WHAT WAS FOR CENTURIES THE MAIN GATE TO THE WALLED CITY.

BACK WHEN RONDA WAS A FORTIFIED TOWN UNDER MUSLIM RULE, YOU ENTERED FROM HERE.

AND ACCORDING TO MOORISH CUSTOM, BEFORE ENTERING YOU'D WASH AND PRAY.

THAT'S WHY THERE WAS A PUBLIC BATH AND MOSQUE JUST OUTSIDE THE GATE.

I STAY RIGHT IN THE OLD TOWN ACTION.

HOTEL SAN GABRIEL HAS GREAT CHARACTER -- IT'S WELL RUN, WITH INVITING PUBLIC ROOMS, AND BEDROOMS THAT MAKE YOU FEEL QUITE NOBLE.

AND JUST OVER THE BRIDGE, THE NEWER TOWN, WHILE MORE STATELY, HAS EQUALLY INVITING STREETS AND PLAZAS.

STROLLING THE STREETS, YOU FEEL A STRONG SENSE OF COMMUNITY, WHERE EVERYONE SEEMS TO KNOW EVERYONE.

WHILE I GENERALLY GO FOR THE RUSTIC OLD BARS, TONIGHT A LOCAL FRIEND IS TAKING ME TO A MODERN ONE.

TRAGA TAPAS PUTS A CONTEMPORARY SPIN ON TRADITIONAL TAPAS.

WE'RE JUST EATING OUR WAY THROUGH THE ENTIRE LIST OF DAILY SPECIALS.

SURE, YOU'LL FIND YOUR OLIVES AND HAM.

BUT YOU'LL ALSO ENJOY ASPARAGUS SNOWED IN WITH MANCHEGO CHEESE... DELICATE COD CHEEK SANDWICHES, AND SPICY PULLED PORK.

ONE BASIC RULE IS THE SAME EVERYWHERE -- IF YOU WANT A CHANCE TO MINGLE WITH LOCALS, GRAB A STOOL AT THE BAR.

RONDA IS NEAR AND DEAR TO SPANIARDS AS THE BIRTHPLACE OF MODERN BULLFIGHTING.

IT HAS THE FIRST GREAT SPANISH BULLRING, BUILT IN 1785.

VISITORS CAN IMAGINE CONFRONTING THE BULL AS IT THUNDERS INTO THE RING.

THE ARENA'S COLUMNS CORRAL THE ACTION, CREATING A KIND OF NEOCLASSICAL THEATER.

BULLFIGHTING ORIGINATED AS A FORM OF MILITARY TRAINING -- REFINED KNIGHTS FIGHTING THE NOBLE BEAST ON HORSEBACK.

IT EVOLVED TO THE SPECTACLE THAT SURVIVES TO THIS DAY.

WHILE CONTROVERSIAL TO MANY FOR ITS BRUTALITY, AFICIONADOS INSIST BULLFIGHTING IS NOT A SPORT, IT'S AN ART FORM.

AND THE MUSEUM OF BULLFIGHTING CELEBRATES THIS TRADITION.

MATADORS, IN THEIR "SUITS OF LIGHT," WERE HEARTTHROBS.

ETCHINGS BY THE GREAT SPANISH PAINTER GOYA SHOW THAT HE WAS CLEARLY AN ENTHUSIAST.

THE MUSEUM FEELS LIKE A SHRINE TO PEDRO ROMERO.

IN THE 18th CENTURY, ROMERO ESTABLISHED THE RULES OF MODERN BULLFIGHTING.

AFTER RONDA, WE WIND OUT OF THE ANDALUSIAN MOUNTAINS AND LEAVE SPAIN FOR A VISIT TO ENGLAND'S FAMED ROCK OF GIBRALTAR.

GIBRALTAR STANDS LIKE A FORTRESS, THE GATEWAY TO THE MEDITERRANEAN.

A STUBBORN LITTLE PIECE OF OLD ENGLAND, IT'S ONE OF THE LAST BITS OF A BRITISH EMPIRE THAT AT ONE TIME CONTROLLED A QUARTER OF THE PLANET.

THE ROCK ITSELF SEEMS TO REPRESENT STABILITY AND POWER.

AND AS IF TO REMIND VISITORS THAT THEY'VE LEFT SPAIN AND ENTERED THE UNITED KINGDOM, INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS LAND ON THIS AIRSTRIP WHICH RUNS ALONG THE BORDER.

CAR TRAFFIC HAS TO STOP FOR EACH PLANE.

STILL, ENTERING GIBRALTAR IS FAR EASIER TODAY THAN BACK WHEN FRANCO BLOCKADED THIS BORDER -- FROM THE LATE 1960s UNTIL THE '80s, THE ONLY WAY IN WAS BY SEA OR AIR.

NOW YOU JUST HAVE TO WAIT FOR THE PLANE TO TAXI BY, AND BOB'S YOUR UNCLE.

THE SEA ONCE REACHED THESE RAMPARTS.

A MODERN DEVELOPMENT GROWS INTO THE HARBOR, AND TODAY HALF THE CITY IS BUILT UPON RECLAIMED LAND.

GIBRALTAR'S OLD TOWN IS LONG AND SKINNY, WITH ONE MAIN STREET.

GIBRALTARIANS ARE A PROUD BUNCH.

REMAINING STEADFASTLY LOYAL TO BRITAIN, ITS 30,000 RESIDENTS VOTE OVERWHELMINGLY TO CONTINUE AS A SELF-GOVERNING BRITISH DEPENDENCY.

WITHIN A GENERATION THE ECONOMY HAS GONE FROM ONE DOMINATED BY THE MILITARY TO ONE BASED ON TOURISM.

BUT IT'S MUCH MORE THAN SUNBURNED BRITS ON HOLIDAY -- GIBRALTAR IS A CROSSROADS COMMUNITY, WITH A JUMBLE OF MUSLIMS, JEWS, HINDUS, AND ITALIANS JOINING THE ENGLISH, AND ALL CROWDED TOGETHER AT THE BASE OF THIS MIGHTY ROCK.

WITH ITS STRATEGIC SETTING, GIBRALTAR HAS AN ILLUSTRIOUS MILITARY HISTORY AND REMNANTS OF ITS MARTIAL PAST ARE EVERYWHERE.

THE ROCK IS HONEYCOMBED WITH TUNNELS.

MANY WERE BLASTED OUT BY THE BRITS IN NAPOLEONIC TIMES.

DURING WORLD WAR II, BRITAIN DRILLED 30 MORE MILES OF TUNNELS.

THE HUNDRED-TON GUN IS ONE OF MANY CANNON THAT BOTH PROTECTED GIBRALTAR AND CONTROLLED SHIPPING IN THE STRAIT.

A CABLE CAR WHISKS VISITORS FROM DOWNTOWN TO THE ROCK'S 1,400 FOOT SUMMIT.

FROM "THE TOP OF THE ROCK," SPAIN'S COSTA DEL SOL ARCS EASTWARD.

AND 15 MILES ACROSS THE HAZY STRAIT OF GIBRALTAR, THE SHORES OF MOROCCO BECKON.

THESE CLIFFS AND THOSE OVER IN AFRICA CREATED WHAT ANCIENT SOCIETIES IN THE MEDITERRANEAN WORLD CALLED "THE PILLARS OF HERCULES."

FOR CENTURIES, THEY WERE THE FOREBODING GATEWAY TO THE UNKNOWN.

DESCENDING THE ROCK, WHETHER YOU LIKE IT OR NOT, YOU'LL MEET THE FAMOUS APES OF GIBRALTAR.

TWO HUNDRED OF THESE MISCHIEF MAKERS ENTERTAIN TOURISTS.

AND WITH ALL THE VISITORS, THEY'RE BOLD AND THEY GET THEIR WAY.

YOU CAN HAVE -- YOU CAN HAVE -- YOU CAN --!

HERE ON THE ROCK OF GIBRALTAR, THE LOCALS ARE VERY FRIENDLY, BUT GIVE THEM YOUR APPLES.

LEGEND HAS IT THAT AS LONG AS THESE APES ARE HERE, THE BRITISH WILL STAY IN GIBRALTAR.

DRIVING WEST FROM GIBRALTAR, A STIFF ATLANTIC BREEZE POWERS A FOREST OF WINDMILLS.

NESTLED SNUGGLY ON THE SOUTHERNMOST TIP OF EUROPE IS THE TOWN OF TARIFA.

PASSING THROUGH ITS MEDIEVAL WALL, WE FIND THE HUMBLE CHARMS OF A WHITEWASHED TOWN WITH HINTS OF ITS ARABIC PAST.

CAFES AND TAPAS BARS COMPLEMENT THE LAIDBACK SCENE.

THE SAME WIND THAT POWERS ITS WINDMILLS MAKES TARIFA A WIND SPORT MECCA.

JUST OUTSIDE OF TOWN, A FIVE-MILE-LONG STRETCH OF SAND HOSTS YOUNG THRILL-SEEKERS FROM ACROSS EUROPE.

KITE SURFING IS ALL THE RAGE.

IDEAL CONDITIONS?

THE MORE WIND THE BETTER.

AROUND HERE, INSTEAD OF YOU FLYING A KITE, THESE KITES FLY YOU.

AND THE SCENE INCLUDES SPECTATORS.

HERE, FAR FROM THE CITY SQUARES AND THE UBIQUITOUS CAFES, THESE EUROPEANS HAVE FOUND YET ANOTHER WAY TO EMBRACE LIFE.

FOR ME, TARIFA'S TOP ATTRACTION?

THE FAST BOAT TO MOROCCO.

SEVERAL BOATS A DAY MAKE THE INTER-CONTINENTAL TRIP IN ABOUT AN HOUR.

TICKETS ARE EASY -- ALL YOU NEED IS A FEW EUROS AND YOUR PASSPORT.

THE STRAIT OF GIBRALTAR IS WHERE SEAS, CONTINENTS, AND CULTURES COLLIDE.

FISHING, SHIPPING AND MOVEMENT OF PEOPLES, THIS NARROW STRETCH OF WATER HAS SEEN IT ALL.

AND IT'S HERE THAT ISLAM AND CHRISTENDOM COME TOGETHER LIKE CULTURAL TECTONIC PLATES.

OVER THE CENTURIES, THIS NARROW PASSAGE HAS WITNESSED LOTS OF TURMOIL -- EIGHTH-CENTURY MUSLIM MOORS SWEEPING NORTH.

THEN, IN 1492, THOSE SAME MOORS RETREATING SOUTH, MAKING THIS VERY SAME VOYAGE.

TODAY, WEALTHY EUROPE HAS INVITED BACK THE PEOPLE OF NORTH AFRICA TO HARVEST ITS CROPS AND DO ITS LOW-END WORK.

AND TODAY, AS ANYWHERE, WITH ALL THIS BACK AND FORTH, THERE ARE BOTH CHALLENGES AND OPPORTUNITIES.

INDEPENDENT TRAVELERS WALK RIGHT OFF THE BOAT AND INTO TANGIER.

THE BUSY PORT SEEMS TO PUMP LIFE INTO THE CITY.

IT'S AN INTENSE SCENE.

TANGIER HAD LONG BEEN CONSIDERED A CHARMLESS AND DANGEROUS PLACE.

BUT TODAY THAT'S CHANGED, AND THIS CITY IS BECOMING A PROUD SHOWCASE OF THE NEW MOROCCO.

LIKE SO MANY MOROCCAN CITIES, TANGIER IS SPLIT IN TWO -- ITS OLD, TANGLED ARAB QUARTER, AND A NEW FRENCH COLONIAL QUARTER.

WHILE NEW TOWN BUILDINGS FEEL DISTINCTLY EUROPEAN, IT'S IMMEDIATELY EVIDENT THAT THIS IS NORTH AFRICA.

TANGIER'S NEW TOWN FACES ITS FINE BEACH.

THE BROAD STRETCH OF SAND IS TREATED AS A PARK BY LOCALS, IDEAL FOR A QUIET STROLL OR SOME EXUBERANT GYMNASTICS.

AND WHAT BETTER PLACE FOR SOME BAREFOOT SOCCER?

A GRAND BOULEVARD PARALLELS THE BEACH.

IT'S NAMED FOR MOROCCO'S POPULAR KING MOHAMMAD VI, THE MAN WHOSE POLICIES HAVE GIVEN TANGIER ITS NEW VITALITY.

THROUGHOUT THE MID-20th CENTURY, TANGIER WAS CONSIDERED TOO STRATEGIC TO BE CONTROLLED BY ANY ONE COUNTRY.

IT WAS THEREFORE JOINTLY GOVERNED BY THE EUROPEAN POWERS.

IT ATTRACTED PLAYBOY MILLIONAIRES, SPIES, ROMANTICS, AND SCOUNDRELS.

BECAUSE OF ITS WESTERN ORIENTATION, THE PREVIOUS MOROCCAN KING ESSENTIALLY DISOWNED THE CITY, LEAVING IT DISPIRITED AND NEGLECTED.

BUT WHEN THE KING WAS CROWNED IN 1999, THIS WAS THE FIRST CITY HE VISITED.

HIS VISION -- TO MAKE TANGIER A LEADING CITY ONCE AGAIN.

AND IT'S WELL ON ITS WAY.

IN THE EARLY EVENING, MOROCCANS HIT THE STREETS AND STROLL AS PEOPLE DO ACROSS THE MEDITERRANEAN WORLD.

AMID ALL THE NEW, OLD WAYS DO PERSIST.

CAFE SITTING AND PEOPLE WATCHING REMAINS A MOSTLY OLD BOYS' PASTIME.

ONCE TANGIER'S MAIN SQUARE, THE GRAND SOCCO STANDS LIKE A REFEREE BETWEEN THE NEW AND OLD TOWNS.

A FEW YEARS AGO, THIS WAS A PEDESTRIAN NIGHTMARE AND A PERPETUAL TRAFFIC JAM.

TODAY, THIS SMART SQUARE IS EMBLEMATIC OF THE NEW TANGIER.

VISITING THIS REVITALIZED CITY LIFTS MY SPIRITS.

I SEE A SOCIETY THAT'S NEITHER PRO-WEST NOR ANTI-WEST.

IT'S JUST PEOPLE, MAKING THE BEST OF LIFE.

IT'S BECOMING MORE MODERN AND AFFLUENT ON ITS OWN TERMS.

FROM THE GRAND SOCCO, A MEDIEVAL WALL ENCIRCLES THE OLD TOWN.

PASSING THROUGH THE GATE, YOU ENTER A LABYRINTHINE WONDERLAND.

THE OLD TOWN IS DELIGHTFULLY DISORIENTING.

WHEN EXPLORING ON MY OWN, I JUST WANDER -- KNOWING THAT UPHILL WILL EVENTUALLY GET ME TO THE CASTLE OR KASBAH, AND DOWNHILL WILL EVENTUALLY LEAD ME BACK TO THE PORT.

EXPECT TO GET A LITTLE LOST -- GOING AROUND IN CIRCLES IS PART OF THE FUN.

YOU CAN VISIT TANGIER ON YOUR OWN, OR YOU CAN TAKE A TOUR.

MOST VISITORS TAKE A TOUR, DAYTRIPPING IN FROM SPAIN FOR A PREDICTABLE SERIES OF EXPERIENCES -- THEY GET THEIR SHOPPING OPPORTUNITIES AND A FEW SET-UP PHOTO OPS.

SNAKE CHARMERS TURN ON THE CHARM.

HUSTLERS HUSTLE FOR TIPS.

AND FOLKLORIC MUSICIANS STRIKE UP THE BAND.

♪♪ FOR LUNCH, TOUR GROUPS SIT TOGETHER IN ALI BABA ELEGANCE TO ENJOY A MEAL WITH MORE LOCAL MUSIC.

♪♪ AND THEN THEY FOLLOW THEIR GUIDE, SINGLE FILE, BACK DOWN TO THEIR WAITING FERRY, PAST ONE LAST GAUNTLET OF MERCHANTS HUNGRY FOR A SALE.

ONCE THE DAY-TRIPPERS ARE BACK ON THEIR BOATS AND HEADING HOME TO EUROPE, IT SEEMS THERE'S HARDLY A TOURIST LEFT IN TANGIER.

THAT'S WHY I LIKE TO SPEND THE NIGHT.

WANDERING IS FUN.

BUT TO ENJOY IT WITH MAXIMUM UNDERSTANDING, YOU CAN HIRE A LOCAL GUIDE.

I'M JOINING UP WITH MY FRIEND AND FELLOW TOUR GUIDE AZIZ BEGDOURI.

Begdouri: THESE GUYS ARE DAY WORKERS READY TO WORK.

A PAINTER READY TO PAINT, A PLUMBER READY TO PLUMB, AN ELECTRICIAN READY TO WIRE.

SO THE COMMUNITY WORKS TOGETHER.

IF YOU DON'T HAVE A PHONE IN THE HOUSE, YOU USE THE PHONE CENTERS.

AND WE USE THE COMMUNITY BATHS, WHICH ARE CALLED HAMMANS.

AND HERE'S THE COMMUNITY OVEN -- IT'S A BAKERY.

LIKE A BAKERY -- OKAY.

THIS IS THE OVEN FOR THE COMMUNITY, SO THE FAMILIES MAKE BREAD EVERY DAY, IN THEIR HOME, AND BRING THE DOUGH HERE TO BE BAKED.

THEY PAY HIM FOR A SMALL FEE -- DEPENDS ON THE LOAVES OF BREAD THEY BRING, SO THEY PAY HIM FOR A DAY, OR FOR A WEEK, OR A MONTH.

THIS WAY THEY HAVE FRESH BREAD EVERY DAY.

Steves: AND IT'S MORE THAN JUST BREAD?

YEAH, APART FROM THE BREAD, THEY BRING FISH TO BE ROASTED.

ALSO THEY BRING TAJINES, OR THE STEW OF LAMB OR CHICKEN, AND BRING HOMEMADE COOKIES AND ALL SORTS OF -- TO ROAST.

PEANUTS, ALMONDS, SAFFLOWER SEEDS, CASHEWS, ALL OF THAT.

HOW DOES THAT TASTE?

IT'S VERY GOOD.

Steves: THE OLD TOWN IS SPINNING WITH TRADITIONAL ARTISANS.

AND AZIZ KNOWS JUST WHICH PASSAGE TO DUCK INTO TO WITNESS COTTAGE INDUSTRIES TRAPPED IN TIME.

Begdouri: HERE ARE THE WEAVERS, THEY ARE STILL WORKING THE SAME WAY AS THEIR PARENTS AND GRANDPARENTS.

SO THIS IS REAL CRAFT AND ART THAT THESE PEOPLE HAVE LEARNED FROM GENERATION TO GENERATION.

THEY ARE VERY HAPPY TO CONTINUE DOING IT.

THEY HAVE THE PATIENCE, THEY HAVE THE SKILL, AND THEY DO IT FROM THEIR HEARTS.

Steves: AND MOSAICS ARE CREATED THE SAME WAY -- BY HAND, AND WITHOUT THE PRECISION OF MODERN MACHINERY.

SO HOW DOES HE KNOW WHERE TO CHIP?

Begdouri: HE HAS A DESIGN IN HIS HEAD AND HE'S WORKING ON IT, AND THAT WAY HE KNOWS WHAT HE'S GOING TO CREATE.

AND ALL THE DESIGNS ARE GEOMETRIC DESIGNS BECAUSE THE MUSLIMS, THEY DON'T DO FACES AND IMAGES AND THAT'S VERY ISLAMIC ART.

FOR THE MUSLIMS, ONLY ALLAH, HE'S PERFECT.

FOR US, THE FACT THAT IT IS NOT PERFECT IS PART OF THE BEAUTY.

Steves: IN THE MARKET, WANDER PAST PILES OF FRUIT, VEGGIES, OLIVES, AND STACKS OF FRESH BREAD.

YOU'LL FIND EVERYTHING BUT PORK.

TODAY, THE BERBER WOMEN HAVE COME IN FROM NEARBY MOUNTAINS WITH WHEELS OF FRESH GOAT CHEESE WRAPPED IN PALM LEAVES.

THE FISH MARKET IS CLEAN, SLIPPERY, AND FULL OF LIFE.

BECAUSE TANGIER IS A CITY ON TWO SEAS -- THE MEDITERRANEAN AND THE ATLANTIC -- FISH IS A BIG PART OF THE LOCAL DIET.

AND IT'S NO SURPRISE AZIZ IS TAKING ME TO A RESTAURANT THAT SERVES ONLY FISH.

THERE'S NO MENU.

JUST SIT DOWN AND LET THEM BRING ON THE FOOD.

THE SINK IN THE ROOM IS FOR LOCALS WHO PREFER TO EAT WITH THEIR FINGERS.

IT'S FISH SOUP, TAJINE SPINACH WITH SHRIMP, BABY CALAMARI AND SWORD FISH, AND THE CATCH OF THE DAY, JOHN DORY.

WE'VE SAMPLED AN AMAZING VARIETY OF CULTURAL TREATS -- FROM HORSES AND FAIRS, TO WHITEWASHED HILL TOWNS, TO KITE SURFERS, TO A BIT OF JOLLY OLD ENGLAND, AND A TASTE OF MOROCCO.

SO MUCH VARIETY ALL WITHIN A COUPLE HOURS' DRIVE -- AND A SHORT FERRY RIDE.

THAT'S ONE THING I LOVE ABOUT TRAVELING IN THIS PART OF THE WORLD.

I HOPE YOU'VE ENJOYED OUR LOOK AT THE PLACE WHERE EUROPE AND AFRICA MEET.

I'M RICK STEVES.

UNTIL NEXT TIME, KEEP ON TRAVELIN'.

AND IT EXPRESSES ITSELF IN ICONIC THEMES!

REALLY ICONIC THEMES!

THESE CLIFFS AND THOSE CLIFFS IN AFRICA CREATED WHAT ANCIENTS LIVING IN THE MEDITERRANEAN WORLD CONSIDERED "THE GATES OF PERCULES."

THE PILLARS OF HERCULES!

"PERCULES"?

ARGGH!

HERE.

Man: NOW, DON'T POKE HIM WITH IT.

HE'LL KILL YOU.