HI, I'M RICK STEVES, BACK WITH MORE OF THE BEST OF EUROPE.

THIS TIME, WE'RE IMMERSING OURSELVES IN THE STREET LIFE AND THE CULTURE OF ROME.

THANKS FOR JOINING US.

[ THEME MUSIC PLAYING ] VISITORS EXPERIENCE ROME IN LAYERS.

IT'S BUILT ON OVER 25 CENTURIES OF HISTORY AND CULTURE.

SURE, YOU'VE GOT TO SEE ITS FAMOUS ANCIENT SITES, THOSE AWE-INSPIRING REMNANTS OF A MIGHTY EMPIRE, LIKE THE COLISEUM, THE FORUM, AND THE PANTHEON.

AND YOU CAN'T MISS TOWERING ST. PETER'S BASILICA AT THE VATICAN -- ALONG WITH THE LAVISH BAROQUE WONDERS THAT DECORATE ROME'S CHURCHES, SQUARES, AND PALACES.

WE DO THAT IN OTHER EPISODES ON THE ETERNAL CITY.

IN THIS EPISODE, WE EXPLORE THIS GRAND CITY, SO RICH IN ART AND CULTURE, IN A MORE INTIMATE WAY -- BY DELVING INTO ITS BACK LANES AND UNHERALDED CORNERS.

ROME WAS BORN ABOUT 3,000 YEARS AGO HERE, ALONG THE TIBER RIVER.

THIS WAS AS FAR UPSTREAM AS BOATS COULD SAIL AND THE FIRST PLACE THE RIVER COULD BE CROSSED BY BRIDGE.

AS A CENTER OF RIVER TRADE, ROME CONNECTED THE INTERIOR OF THE ITALIAN PENINSULA WITH THE MEDITERRANEAN.

THIS RIVERBANK WOULD HAVE BEEN BUSTLING IN ANCIENT TIMES.

IMAGINE -- BUSY DOCKS, RAMSHACKLE BOATS, WATER MILLS, AND PLATFORMS FOR FISHING.

UNTIL MODERN TIMES, ROME'S RIVER WAS PART OF ITS ECONOMY.

THEN, IN THE 1870s, IN ORDER TO PROTECT THE CITY FROM FLOODING, THE ROMANS WALLED OFF THE TIBER.

THEY BUILT THESE TALL, ANONYMOUS EMBANKMENTS THAT CONTINUE TO ISOLATE THE RIVER FROM THE CITY TO THIS DAY.

WHILE ROME WAS BORN ON THE TIBER, TODAY THE TOWN SEEMS TO IGNORE ITS RIVER, BUT THE CITY'S GRACEFUL BRIDGES CONNECT THRIVING NEIGHBORHOODS.

JUST OVER THE TIBER FROM HERE IS ONE OF ROME'S MOST COLORFUL DISTRICTS.

TRASTEVERE ISTHEPLACE TO IMMERSE YOURSELF IN THE CRUSTIER SIDE OF ROME.

THE NAME "TRASTEVERE" ACTUALLY MEANS "ACROSS THE TIBER RIVER."

WANDERING HERE OFFERS A CHANCE TO HONE YOUR SENSES TO SEE ROME MORE INTIMATELY.

YOU'LL DISCOVER A WORLD OF ARTISANS WHO'VE FOUND THEIR NICHE AND LOVE IT.

THE PEOPLE HERE, "TRASTEVERINI," ARE PROUD.

OLD-TIMERS ONCE BRAGGED OF NEVER SETTING FOOT ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE OF THE RIVER.

AS WE EXPLORE AND OBSERVE, THE BIG CITY SEEMS WORLDS AWAY.

FOR MAXIMUM TRASTEVERE FUN AND INSIGHT, I'M JOINED BY MY FRIEND AND ROMAN TOUR GUIDE, FRANCESCA CARUSO.

ESPECIALLY HERE IN TRASTEVERE, YOU GET THIS SENSE OF THE MANY LAYERS OF ROME.

CERTAINLY, THAT IS REALLY THE KEY TO UNDERSTANDING ROME.

THIS CITY HAS ALMOST 3,000 YEARS OF HISTORY.

IT WAS NEVER ABANDONED, SO PEOPLE HAVE JUST BUILT ON TOP AND AROUND OF WHAT WAS ALREADY THERE.

LIKE A LAYER CAKE, ISN'T IT?

BOY, THERE'S A BEAUTIFUL ROOF GARDEN.

YEAH.

MOST OF US IN ROME LIVE IN APARTMENTS, SO NO GARDENS, NO BACK YARDS, SO WE ALL DREAM OF THEATTICO CON TERRAZZO.

ATTICO CON TERRAZZO, AN ATTIC WITH A TERRACE.

YES, SO THE SKYLINE OF ROME IS FULL OF THESE LITTLE JUNGLES ON THE ROOFTOPS.

EVERYTHING IS SO INTIMATE.

IT'S LIKE WE'RE WALKING THROUGH SOMEBODY'S LAUNDRY ROOM.

WELL, WE'VE ALWAYS LIVED VERY CLOSE TOGETHER HERE.

SHARING SPACE IS REALLY NOT A PROBLEM.

WE DON'T EVEN HAVE THE WORD FOR "PRIVACY" IN ITALIAN.

WE USE THE ENGLISH WORD INSTEAD.

WE SIMPLY ROLL THE "R," SO WE SAYPRIVACY.

PRIVACY.

I KNOW ONE MORE ITALIAN WORD NOW.

[ LAUGHS ] [ CONVERSING IN ITALIAN ] SO WHY ARE SO MANY OF THE OLDEST CHURCHES IN ROME ON THIS SIDE OF THE RIVER?

BECAUSE TRASTEVERE WAS THE NEIGHBORHOOD OF FOREIGNERS, OFTEN CHRISTIAN, WHO BROUGHT THEIR FAITH WITH THEM.

FOR THE WHOLE PERIOD OF THE PERSECUTIONS, THEY COULD NOT BUILD CHURCHES, SO MASS WOULD BE CELEBRATED IN THE HOMES OF WEALTHY CONVERTS WHO OFFERED THEIR HOMES FOR MASS.

SO THEN THIS IS ONE OF THOSE KIND OF CHURCHES.

YES, IT WAS THE HOUSE OF CECILIA, AND IN LATER TIMES THEY BUILT A CHURCH DEDICATED TO HER.

AND TODAY, THE NAME OF THE CHURCH?

THE SANTA CECILIA.

Steves: NOW, WHAT HAPPENED TO SAINT CECILIA?

SAINT CECILIA AND HER HUSBAND WERE KILLED BECAUSE OF THEIR FAITH.

THE ROMANS TRIED TO STANE HER TO DEATH FOR THREE DAYS IN HER OWN HOME, AND AFTER THAT, THEY BEHEADED HER.

THIS IS A BEAUTIFUL STATUE.

IT'S JUST PEACEFUL.

YES, IT'S VERY QUIET.

THERE'S SOMETHING VERY TENDER ABOUT IT AND ALSO VERY SAD, ABOUT A YOUNG WOMAN WHO WAS KILLED SO BRUTALLY FOR HER FAITH.

THE CONCEPT OF A PIAZZA SERVING AS A COMMUNITY CENTER GOES BACK TO ANCIENT TIMES.

PIAZZA SANTA MARIA IN TRASTEVERE STILL FUNCTIONS AS THE HEART OF THIS NEIGHBORHOOD.

WITH ITS BROAD AND INVITING STEPS, THE FOUNTAIN WAS ACTUALLY DESIGNED TO BE A KIND OF NEIGHBORHOOD SOFA.

GREAT PART OF EXPLORING A NEIGHBORHOOD IS JUST SITTING IN THE MAIN SQUARE.

I THINK IT'S REALLY IN OUR DNA.

WE'VE BEEN LIVING IN OUR PIAZZAS AS COMMON LIVING ROOMS SINCE ANCIENT ROMAN TIMES, SO IT'S ALWAYS BEEN THIS WAY, AND LET'S HOPE IT WILL ALWAYS BE THIS WAY IN THE FUTURE, TOO.

AND, AS USUAL, THE DISTRICT'S MAIN CHURCH FRONTS THE MAIN SQUARE.

THE CHURCH OF SANTA MARIA IN TRASTEVERE IS ALSO ONE OF ROME'S OLDEST AND MOST BELOVED CHURCHES.

LIKE CECILIA'S CHURCH, IT'S BUILT ON THE SITE OF A THIRD-CENTURY HOME, WHERE EARLY CHRISTIANS WORSHIPPED ILLEGALLY.

AND, LIKE THE CITY ITSELF, IT'S BEEN A WORK IN PROGRESS, REBUILT CONTINUOUSLY OVER THE CENTURIES.

THE PORTICO IS DECORATED WITH ANCIENT FRAGMENTS FILLED WITH EARLY CHRISTIAN SYMBOLISM -- THE ANCHOR, BIRDS, PEOPLE WITH HANDS UP, PRAYING AS EVANGELICAL CHRISTIANS DO TODAY.

MANY OF THESE STONES WERE ORIGINALLY LIDS TO BURIAL NICHES FROM THE CATACOMBS.

STEPPING INSIDE TAKES YOU BACK CENTURIES.

THE GRANITE COLUMNS WERE SCAVENGED FROM ANCIENT ROMAN BUILDINGS.

THE CHURCH FEELS LIKE AN ANCIENT HALL OF JUSTICE.

THAT'S BECAUSE EARLY CHURCHES ADOPTED THE PRE-CHRISTIAN BASILICA FLOOR PLAN -- A RECTANGULAR SPACE DIVIDED BY ROWS OF COLUMNS.

THESE MOSAICS ARE EARLY MEDIEVAL, WELL OVER 1,000 YEARS OLD.

THEY'RE RICH IN SYMBOLISM.

MARY IS GIVEN HIGH STATURE.

SHE'S AT THE THRONE WITH JESUS IN HEAVEN.

HE HAS HIS ARM AROUND HIS MOTHER AS IF INTRODUCING HER TO US.

LOCALS CLAIM THIS IS THE FIRST CHURCH DEDICATED TO THE VIRGIN MARY.

I NEVER LEAVE WITHOUT CHECKING IN WITH ST. ANTHONY, WHO HANGS OUT IN THE BACK.

HE'S A FAVORITE OF THE POOR AND IS INUNDATED WITH PRAYER REQUESTS ON SCRAPS OF PAPER.

Steves: FOR DINNER, WE'RE VENTURING INTO ANOTHER NEIGHBORHOOD.

GRAND AS IT IS, THE VISITORS' ROME IS COMPACT.

THERE IS NO SHORTAGE OF PLACES TO DINE, AND ONE OF MY FAVORITES IS JUST A SHORT CAB RIDE AWAY, BACK ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE RIVER.

RISTORANTE IL GABRIELLO PROVIDES A PEACEFUL AND LOCAL-FEELING RESPITE FROM THE INTENSITY OF THE BIG CITY.

CLAUDIO SERVES WITH CHARISMA, WHILE HIS BROTHER, GABRIELLO, COOKS ROMAN CUISINE WITH A CREATIVE TWIST, USING FRESH, ORGANIC PRODUCTS FROM THE MARKET AND FROM HIS WIFE'S FARM.

SOMETIMES ITALIANS LIKE TO IGNORE THE MENU, JUST TRUST THE RESTAURATEUR, AND GO WITH THE MEAL HE SUGGESTS.

WHENEVER POSSIBLE, SO DO I, AND THAT'S THE PLAN TONIGHT.

FIRST UP, FRESH SCAMPI, OYSTERS, AND SHRIMP, AND THEY'RE SERVED THE WAY ROMANS LIKE IT --CRUDO,OR RAW.

OH, YES, THAT'S NICE.

NEXT, CLAUDIO SWITCHES US FROM A WHITE TO A RED WINE IN ANTICIPATION OF THE PASTA DISHES.

Claudio:RAVIOLI, SI, STUFFED WITH RICOTTA, RICOTTA CHEESE, AND SPINACH.

OKAY.

FIRST, A RAVIOLI WITH A DELICATE CREAM SAUCE AND A PINCH OF SAGE.

THAT'S A NICE LEAD-IN TO OUR SECOND PASTA -- SPAGHETTI ALLA CARBONARA.

CARBONARA IS EGGS, PANCETTA, SOME PECORINO, AND A LITTLE BIT OF PARMIGIANO AND PEPPER.

VERY SIMPLE AND VERY ROMAN.

CLAUDIO RECOMMENDS A WINE CHANGE TO A SUPER TUSCAN.

SUPER?

SUPER.

[ LAUGHS ] THISWILLBE SUPER WITH A DISH OF RARE BEEF TOPPED WITH THIN STRIPS OF LARD.

AS AN EXTRA TREAT, HE'S PREPARED A SPECIAL LOCAL WHITE FISH.

AND FINALLY, THE DOLCE.

SORRY, BUT THESE DESSERTS TASTE EVEN BETTER THAN THEY LOOK.

WHAT A MEAL!

TO BEST ENJOY ROME, I LOOK FOR A CENTRALLY LOCATED REFUGE -- PLACES LIKE HOTEL OCEANIA ARE QUIET, AIR-CONDITIONED, AND AFFORDABLE.

STEFANO AND HIS STAFF OFFER LOTS OF CREATIVE TOUCHES, LIKE THIS BREEZY TERRAZZO, WHERE YOU CAN ALMOST FORGET THAT YOU'RE IN SUCH A LARGE, CHAOTIC CITY.

THEY WORK HARD TO CREATE A CARING, FAMILY ATMOSPHERE.

AND THE BREAKFAST ROOM IS HOMEY, PROVIDING A CLASSIC ROMAN BREAKFAST OF FRESH ROLLS, PASTRIES, AND COFFEE.

A FINE PLACE TO START YOUR DAY.

WE'RE HEADING BACK INTO THE CENTER ON BUS 64.

IT'S POPULAR WITH TOURISTS BECAUSE IT STARTS AT THE TRAIN STATION AND LACES TOGETHER MANY OF THE CITY'S TOP SITES.

THEREFORE, IT'S POPULAR WITH THIEVES, AS WELL.

I'LL BET THERE'S A PICKPOCKET ON THIS BUS RIGHT NOW, DRESSED LIKE SOMEONE YOU'D NEVER EXPECT TO BE A THIEF -- PERHAPS A BUSINESSMAN, A PRIEST, EVEN A TOUR GUIDE.

DON'T BE PARANOID, JUST KEEP YOUR VALUABLES ZIPPED-UP AND BUTTONED-DOWN.

ROME IS A COLLECTION OF DISTINCT NEIGHBORHOODS, EACH WITH ITS OWN HERITAGE AND CHARACTER.

A GOOD EXAMPLE IS THE GHETTO, OR JEWISH QUARTER.

IN ANCIENT TIMES, THIS BRIDGE WAS CALLED JEWS' BRIDGE, BECAUSE JEWS AND OTHER FOREIGNERS WHO WEREN'T ALLOWED TO LIVE IN CENTRAL ROME WOULD COMMUTE FROM TRASTEVERE OVER THERE ACROSS THIS BRIDGE TO GET INTO TOWN.

TO UNDERSTAND THE JEWISH CHAPTER OF ROME'S STORY, WE'RE JOINING MY FRIEND AND FELLOW TOUR GUIDE MICHAELA PAVONCELLO.

MICHAELA'S FAMILY GOES ALL THE WAY BACK TO THE JEWISH COMMUNITY LIVING HERE BEFORE CHRIST, AND THE FAMILY LINE CONTINUES.

HER BABY'S DUE IN JUST A FEW MONTHS.

SO WHAT'S UNIQUE ABOUT THE ROMAN JEWISH COMMUNITY?

WELL, FIRST OF ALL, WE'RE NOT ASHKENAZI AND WE'RE NOT SEPHARDI.

YOU KNOW, THE ASHKENAZI WENT TO GERMANY AND POLAND AND THE SEPHARDI WENT TO SPAIN.

THE ROMAN JEWS CAME STRAIGHT FROM JERUSALEM BEFORE THE DESTRUCTION OF THE TEMPLE, SO WE WERE HERE SINCE BEFORE THE DIASPORA.

AH.

SO WHEN YOU THINK ASHKENAZI OR SEPHARDIC, THAT'S AFTER THE DIASPORA.

SO YOU CAN SAY THIS IS THE OLDEST JEWISH COMMUNITY IN EUROPE.

YES, ONE OF THE OLDEST OUTSIDE OF ISRAEL.

SO IF THE ROMAN JEWS CAME BEFORE THE DIASPORA, WHY DID THEY COME HERE IN THE FIRST PLACE?

BECAUSE THEY WERE DIPLOMATS AND BUSINESSMEN, AND DURING THE CENTURIES, WE HAD TO LEAVE WITH EMPERORS AND POPES, AND WE WERE TOLERATED BECAUSE WE WERE GOOD FOR THE BUSINESS AND WE WERE NOT PUSHING OUR RELIGIONS TO THE OTHERS AND WE WERE KEEPING IT FOR OURSELVES.

Steves: SO THEN WHAT HAPPENED?

THEN, WE'RE IN 1500, THE REFORMATION CAME AND THE CHURCH HAD TO FIGHT ANY ALTERNATIVE RELIGION, AND SO THE GHETTO WAS ESTABLISHED IN ROME TO...

OKAY, SO THE CHURCH IS FIGHTING THE PROTESTANTS AND AT THE SAME TIME FIGHTING THE JEWS.

YEAH, AND TO AVOID ANY CONTAMINATION BETWEEN JEWS AND CHRISTIANS, JEWS WERE SEGREGATED IN A WALLED AREA IN ROME IN 1555.

SO WHAT WAS THE LIFE LIKE IN THE GHETTO?

WELL, YOU HAVE TO IMAGINE 9,000 PEOPLE SQUEEZED IN A FOUR-BLOCKS AREA, FLOODED EVERY SINGLE WINTER BECAUSE THE TIBER WOULD FLOOD EVERY WINTER.

SO IT WAS SQUALID, MUDDY, DISGUSTING -- IT WAS THE WORST REAL ESTATE OF ROME.

Steves: THE SYNAGOGUE WAS THE COMMUNITY CENTER.

IT LOOKS LIKE A CHURCH BECAUSE BACK WHEN IT WAS BUILT THERE WERE NO JEWISH ARCHITECTS HANDY, AND THAT'S WHAT CHRISTIAN BUILDERS KNEW HOW TO MAKE.

IT'S ART NOUVEAU WITH A DASH OF TIFFANY.

THE DOME WAS PAINTED WITH THE COLORS OF THE RAINBOW, SYMBOLIC OF GOD'S PROMISE TO NOAH THAT THERE WOULD BE NO MORE FLOODS.

THE STARS SYMBOLIZED THAT THE JEWISH PEOPLE WOULD BE AS MANY AS THE STARS IN THE SKY.

BACK IN PREVIOUS CENTURIES, WHEN THE GHETTO WAS A WALLED-IN TOWN, CHRISTIAN ROMANS BUILT CHURCHES AT EACH GATE, AND EACH OF THESE CHURCHES CAME COMPLETE WITH AN ATTEMPT IN HEBREW SCRIPT TO CONVERT THE JEWS.

WHILE MOST OF THE SQUALID GHETTO WAS DEMOLISHED WITH ITALIAN UNIFICATION IN 1870, THE BUILDINGS FACING THE MAIN DRAG SURVIVE.

SHOPS SELL FINE, LOCALLY PRODUCED JUDAICA, AND KOSHER RESTAURANTS PROUDLY SERVE TRADITIONAL DISHES, LIKE THOSE WITH ARTICHOKES.

WHILE THE JEWISH COMMUNITY NOW LIVES ALL OVER TOWN, MANY ROMAN JEWS STILL ENJOY GATHERING HERE IN THE NEIGHBORHOOD WHERE THEY HAVE SUCH DEEP ROOTS.

Pavoncello: SO I'LL TAKE YOU TO THE JEWISH BAKERY.

THE SAME FAMILY HAS BEEN RUNNING THE SAME BUSINESS FOR 200 YEARS.

THEY ONLY OFFER FIVE OR SIX RECIPES, SO DON'T ASK FOR WEIRD THINGS.

THEY ONLY HAVE CHEESECAKE WITH CHOCOLATE, CINNAMON BISCOTTI WITH ALMONDS, MACAROONS, AND THE PIZZA.

THAT'S CALLED A JEWISH PIZZA.

WHAT'S IN A JEWISH PIZZA?

IT'S LIKE A -- ALMOST LIKE A FRUIT CAKE, WITH PINE NUTS, ALMOND, CANDIES.

TELL ME ABOUT THE CHALLAH BREAD.

AH, THE CHALLAH BREAD, IT'S WHAT WE SERVE WHEN A BABY BOY'S BORN OR WHEN A COUPLE GETS MARRIED OR WHEN YOU HAVE A BAR MITZVAH.

SO THIS IS TO CELEBRATE A NEW BABY.

YEAH, IT'S TO CELEBRATE NEW BABIES, OR -- WELL, THAT'S VERY APPROPRIATE TODAY.

YEAH.

[ LAUGHS ] VERY NICE.

ROME IS A CITY OF MAGNIFICENT ART.

IT'S EVERYWHERE YOU LOOK, AND MOST OF IT WAS PAID FOR BY THE CHURCH.

PUBLIC SQUARES LIKE PIAZZA NAVONA, WITH BERNINI'S MUCH-LOVED FOUR RIVERS FOUNTAIN, ARE DECORATED WITH CHURCH-SPONSORED ART.

UNTIL MODERN TIMES, IT WAS THE CHURCH THAT HAD THE POWER, THE MONEY, AND THE NEED FOR GREAT ART, AND GOING TO CHURCH OFFERED THE MASSES, WHOSE LIVES WERE SO DREARY OTHERWISE, A PROMISING GLIMPSE OF THE GLORY THAT AWAITED THEM IN THE NEXT LIFE.

AND VISITING TODAY, OUR CHALLENGE IS TO APPRECIATE THE ART FROM THAT PERSPECTIVE -- AS A MEDIEVAL WORSHIPPER.

POPPING INTO CHURCHES, MANY OF THEM NONDESCRIPT ON THE OUTSIDE, YOU'LL FIND SUMPTUOUS ART TREASURES INSIDE.

THE WONDERFUL THING ABOUT SEEING ART IN CHURCHES IS THAT IT'S IN SITU, NOT HANGING ON MUSEUM WALLS, BUT EXACTLY WHERE THE ART WAS DESIGNED TO BE ENJOYED.

THOUGHTFULLY STRINGING TOGETHER A SERIES OF LESSER-KNOWN CHURCHES CAN BE AN ART LOVER'S DELIGHT.

FOR EXAMPLE, DROPPING BY THE RELATIVELY OBSCURE SANTA MARIA SOPRA MINERVA, HERE WE FIND A GLORIOUS GOTHIC INTERIOR LADEN WITH IMPRESSIVE ART.

THE ALTAR SITS UPON THE TOMB OF SAINT CATHERINE WITH THE ORNATE TOMBS OF TWO MEDICI POPES LOOKING DOWN.

FOR GENERATIONS, PILGRIMS HAVE MARVELED AT THIS MICHELANGELO STATUE OF CHRIST CARRYING THE CROSS.

AND, IN THE SIDE CHAPEL, IS A LOVELY SERIES OF FRESCOS BY FILIPPO LIPPI SHOWING THE GOOD WORKS OF SAINT THOMAS AQUINAS ACCOMPANIED BY A CELESTIAL SERENADE.

ANOTHER, EVEN LESS-VISITED CHURCH SANTA PRASSEDE, IS DECORATED WITH THE BEST BYZANTINE MOSAICS IN ROME.

THEY DATE FROM THE 800s.

IN THIS CHAPEL, THE GOLD CEILING REPRESENTS HEAVEN.

AN ICON LIKE CHRIST EMERGES FROM THE BACKGROUND, SUPPORTED BY WINGED ANGELS IN WHITE.

SAINTS WALK AMONG PATCHES OF FLOWERS WHILE MARY AND JESUS OVERLOOK THE ALTAR.

WHILE THIS SMALL CHAPEL IS IMPRESSIVE EVEN TO OUR MODERN EYES, IN THE DARKNESS OF MEDIEVAL ROME, IT WAS STUNNING -- CELEBRATED AS THE GARDEN OF PARADISE.

ANOTHER GEM AWAITING THOSE EXPLORING ROME'S BACK STREETS IS THE CHURCH OF ST. PETER IN CHAINS.

ITS FINE SIDE ALTAR WAS SCULPTED DURING THE RENAISSANCE, AN AGE WHEN REALISM, EMOTION, EVEN PSYCHOLOGY WERE INJECTED INTO THE ART.

ITS CENTERPIECE IS A MASTERPIECE BY MICHELANGELO.

MICHELANGELO TELLS A STORY IN MARBLE -- MOSES HAS JUST RETURNED FROM A MEETING WITH GOD, HE SENSES TROUBLE BACK HOME.

HE TURNS TO SEE HIS FOLLOWERS WORSHIPPING A GOLDEN CALF.

GRIPPING THE TEN COMMANDMENTS UNDER HIS MUSCULAR ARM, HE'S ABOUT TO RISE UP AND PUNISH THE NAUGHTY CHILDREN OF ISRAEL.

GREAT ART LIKE THIS IS IN SEEMINGLY ENDLESS SUPPLY HERE IN THE ETERNAL CITY.

AND, BY SIDE-TRIPPING OUT OF TOWN, YOU'LL FIND EVEN MORE.

ROME'S MAIN TRAIN STATION, CALLED "TERMINI," IS A MASSIVE TRANSPORTATION HUB.

PUBLIC BUSES, TOUR BUSES AND CITY SUBWAYS LEAVE FROM HERE IN ALL DIRECTIONS.

THE TRAIN STATION ITSELF IS A THRIVING MALL WITH EVERYTHING FROM 24-HOUR PHARMACIES TO FAST TRAINS TO THE AIRPORT.

WE'RE MEETING UP WITH FRANCESCA AGAIN, RIDING THE SUBWAY OUT TO OSTIA ANTICA, TO EXPLORE WHAT'S LEFT OF ANCIENT ROME'S MIGHTY PORT.

THE RUINS OF OSTIA RIVAL THE MORE FAMOUS RUINS AT POMPEII.

WHILE POMPEII IS THREE HOURS AWAY, OSTIA IS JUST A HALF-HOUR TRAIN RIDE FROM DOWNTOWN ROME.

2,000 YEARS AGO, THIS WAS A WORKING PORT TOWN.

WANDERING AROUND, YOU CAN IMAGINE THE BUSTLE AND COMPLEXITY OF A ONCE-THRIVING PORT OF 60,000 PEOPLE.

WAREHOUSES, APARTMENT FLATS, MANSIONS, SHOPPING ARCADES, ALL LAID OUT IN A TYPICALLY ROMAN GRID PLAN OF STREETS.

LOCATED WHERE THE TIBER RIVER MEETS THE SEA, OSTIA WAS FOUNDED IN THE FOURTH CENTURY BEFORE CHRIST.

IT SERVED AS A NAVAL BASE, PROTECTING ROME FROM ANY INVASION BY RIVER.

IT WAS ALSO AN ADMINISTRATIVE AND WAREHOUSING CENTER, KEEPING MORE THAN A MILLION ROMANS FED AND IN SANDALS.

BUT EVENTUALLY, THINGS WENT DOWNHILL FOR OSTIA.

ROME FELL, THE RIVER CHANGED COURSE, THE PORT SILTED-UP AND WAS ABANDONED, THE ENTIRE PLACE BECAME A MALARIA-INFESTED SWAMP, AND OSTIA WAS FORGOTTEN.

THE MUD THAT BURIED OSTIA ACTUALLY PROTECTED IT FROM THE RAVAGES OF TIME, INCLUDING STONE-SCAVENGING MEDIEVAL PEASANTS.

AND, THANKS TO EXTENSIVE AND ONGOING EXCAVATIONS, THERE'S LOTS TO SEE.

THIS FINE MOSAIC DECORATED THE BATHS OF NEPTUNE.

AT THE BOTTOM OF THE POOL, NEPTUNE RIDES FOUR HORSES THROUGH THE SEA.

APART FROM THE CUPID RIDING THE DOLPHIN, THE SEA LOOKS PRETTY FRIGHTENING -- WHICH, TO THOSE ANCIENTS, IT WAS.

THE ADJACENT THEATER SEATED 4,000.

PLAYS WERE ROWDY, DAYTIME EVENTS WITH LOTS OF AUDIENCE PARTICIPATION -- PERHAPS A BIT LIKE TODAY'S SCHOOL FIELD TRIP.

[ SPEAKING ITALIAN ] TYPICAL OF ROMAN URBAN DESIGN, THIS COMPLEX MIXED RELIGION, BUSINESS, AND ENTERTAINMENT -- A GRAND THEATER FACING A TEMPLE, SURROUNDED BY A COMMERCIAL SQUARE.

THE SQUARE OF THE GUILDS, LINED WITH OFFICES OF SHIP OWNERS AND TRADERS, WAS THE BUSTLING CENTER OF ROME'S IMPORT/EXPORT INDUSTRY.

MOSAICS ON THE SIDEWALK ADVERTISE SERVICES OFFERED BY VARIOUS SHOPS, WITH SYMBOLS FOR SAILORS AND MERCHANTS WHO WERE EITHER ILLITERATE OR COULDN'T READ LATIN.

SHIPPERS SHOWED OFF FINE VESSELS.

THIS LIGHTHOUSE WAS THE SIGN OF THE GREAT EGYPTIAN CITY OF ALEXANDRIA.

GRAIN CONTAINERS ARE REMINDERS THAT GRAIN WAS THE MAJOR IMPORT OF OSTIA.

Francesca: ROME IMPORTED MOST OF WHAT IT CONSUMED.

THIS BIG JARS CONTAINED OIL, WINE, GRAIN THAT CAME FROM ALL OVER THE MEDITERRANEAN, WAS STORED HERE THEN SHIPPED OFF TO ROME.

THIS IS THE MILL -- OSTIA WAS FAMOUS FOR THE QUALITY OF ITS BREAD.

THEY WOULD PUT STICKS THROUGH THESE HOLES, AND THEN A DONKEY OR A HUMAN WOULD PUSH THEM AROUND.

OKAY, SO, YOU'D POUR THE GRAIN IN HERE, GRIND IT UP, FLOUR COMES OUT THE BOTTOM.

AND THAT'S STONE-GROUND, I'D SAY.

ISN'T IT, REALLY.

Steves: I LOVE TO IMAGINE HOW PEOPLE MUST HAVE LIVED HERE.

Francesca: YES, IN APARTMENTS THAT COULD BE EASILY UP TO FIVE STORIES HIGH.

THEY HAD NO KITCHENS, NO PLUMBING, NO HEATING, SO, THEY USED THESE APARTMENTS LIKE TENTS AT A CAMPING SITE, JUST TO SLEEP.

NO KITCHENS?

NO KITCHENS.

SO, EVEN TO EAT THEY WOULD HAVE TO GO TO A FAST FOOD OR A CAFETERIA -- OF THE TIME, IT WAS JUST ACROSS THE STREET.

SO, YOU JUST STEP ACROSS THE STREET TO THE CORNER DINER?

YES.

Steves: 2,000 YEARS AGO, THIS WAS THE NEIGHBORHOOD BAR.

YES, LIKE A CAFETERIA OR A FAST FOOD PLACE.

YOU WOULD COME UP TO THE COUNTER AND MAYBE ORDER SOMETHING TO GO, MAYBE YOU MIGHT SEE SOME FOOD OR SOME DRINKS ON DISPLAY HERE.

OR, IF YOU HAD TIME, YOU WOULD COME INSIDE AND YOU COULD HAVE SOMETHING SITTING DOWN.

AND HERE, PROBABLY, THEY HAD A DISPLAY OF THE FOOD OR MAYBE THE CUPS AND THE PLATES, AND THEN HERE THERE'S A PICTORIAL MENU THAT SHOWS US WHAT WAS OFFERED.

SO, WE HAVE FOOD, WE HAVE DRINKS, AND WE HAVE MUSIC.

SO, MUSIC, LIKE, TUESDAY NIGHT, WE GOT LIVE MUSIC, OUT IN THE COURTYARD?

YES, WHY NOT?

AS YOU CAN SEE, PUBLIC RESTROOMS WERE REALLY PUBLIC, AND QUITE ADVANCED -- THEY HAD RUNNING WATER COMING THROUGH.

SO, THERE'S A STREAM GOING ALL THE TIME, CONSTANTLY FLUSHING.

CONSTANTLY FLUSHING.

SO, CONSTANTLY CLEAN.

IMAGINE FRESCOES ON THE WALLS, AND EVEN REVOLVING DOORS AT THE ENTRANCE.

SO EASY TO UNDERESTIMATE HOW ADVANCED ROME WAS.

THAT'S REALLY TRUE.

Steves: OSTIA'S DELIGHTFUL LITTLE MUSEUM HELPS BRING LIFE TO THESE RUINS.

THESE FINE STATUES -- TANGLED WRESTLERS, KISSING CUPIDS, PLAYFUL GODS -- ADORNED THE COURTYARDS OF WEALTHY OSTIA FAMILIES.

MANY OF THE STATUES ARE SECOND- AND THIRD-CENTURY ROMAN COPIES INSPIRED BY FAMOUS BUT NOW LOST GREEK ORIGINALS.

THESE PORTRAIT BUSTS ARE OF REAL PEOPLE, LIKE THOSE YOU'D MEET ON THE STREETS RIGHT HERE, 1,800 YEARS AGO.

ONE THING ROMAN ARTISTS DID WELL WAS CARVE REALISTIC BUSTS.

IT WAS THEIR FORTE, BECAUSE ROMAN RELIGION REVERED ANCESTORS.

THE MAN OF THE HOUSE, AND HIS FATHER AND GRANDFATHER, THAT'S WHY STATUES OF DAD AND GRANDPA WERE OFTEN FOUND IN THE CORNER OF ANY PROPER HOUSE.

ALSO, WITH THE EMPEROR CONSIDERED A GOD, YOU'D FIND HIS BUST IN CLASSROOMS, AT THE POST OFFICE, AND ALL OVER TOWN.

WITH ROME'S RICH INHERITANCE FROM THOSE GOD-LIKE EMPERORS, TODAY'S CITY COMES WITH A GRAND PERSONALITY.

BUT AS WE'VE SEEN, IT ALSO HAS ITS INTIMATE CHARMS.

AND EXPLORING THE ETERNAL CITY, GETTING TO KNOW ITS MANY DIMENSIONS WITH EACH VISIT, I FIND IT BECOMES A BETTER FRIEND.

AS I'VE DISCOVERED OVER A LIFETIME OF VISITS, ROME REWARDS THOSE WHO VENTURE BEYOND ITS MONUMENTAL SIGHTS.

THANKS FOR JOINING US, I'M RICK STEVES.

UNTIL NEXT TIME, KEEP ON TRAVELIN' -- CIAO.

[ DOG BARKING ] IN THIS EPISODE, WE EXPLORE THIS GRAND CITY WITH SO RICH IN ART AND CULTURE, IN A MORE INTIMATE WAY -- WITH DOGS!

IN A MORE INTIMATE WAY, BY DELVING INTO ITS BACK LANES AND UNHERALDED CORNERS.

AMERICA, BUON APPETITO.

AMERICA, BUON APPETITO.

CIAO.

CIAO.

BONJOUR!