>> Legacy is about the things that you can pass on.

You can pass on your wisdom... your skills... >> How about this?

>> Air filter.

>> This down here?

Proper tire pressure would be?

>> 35 PSI.

>> ...and maybe you can pass on something just a little bit more.

The Ford F-150, a proud supporter of "A Craftsman's Legacy."

♪♪♪ >> Well, it's been a long drive from Detroit, but we made it to Texas.

I'm in Georgetown, and, tomorrow, I'll be working with Nate Funmaker.

Nate is a master hatter, who's able to make a hat fit any cowboy.

I'm curious to find out what kind of machinery he's using and how he got started.

♪♪♪ A craftsman battles for perfection, never willing to give in or walk away.

I'm Eric Gorges.

I build custom motorcycles using skills passed on by countless generations before me.

I used to work 9:00 to 5:00, chasing money and titles, and it nearly broke me.

So, I started over.

I decided to work with my hands to feed my soul.

Please join me on a quest to uncover the skills that built our society.

We'll discover what drives the men and women who I call my heroes.

We'll learn their craft and maybe even find some inspiration along the way.

There's a part of you in everything you create, your legacy.

"A Craftsman's Legacy."

♪♪♪ How did you find your way into making hats?

>> I kind of just stumbled into it.

I met an old hatmaker, and he made me a hat.

And I really dug what he did and I asked him if he'd give me a job.

>> Oh, really?

>> Yeah.

>> Now, how old were you at the time?

>> 28 at the time.

>> Yeah?

>> Yeah.

>> And, up to that point, you really didn't know anything about hatmaking?

>> I didn't.

I didn't.

>> [ Laughs ] >> Which he thought was a good thing.

And now, if I hire somebody, I think it's a good thing, too.

>> Really?

>> Yeah.

Then you can mold them into like, "Here's how I want it done."

>> Sure, sure.

>> Yeah.

Yep.

>> What was it about hatmaking that sort of attracted you?

>> I get to create something that somebody's gonna wear.

>> Okay.

>> I thought that was cool.

>> So, at what point did you sort of decide that you were gonna take over his business or buy his -- Did you end up buying his business out?

>> I did.

I did.

It was a thing where I was actually just gonna move on with another hatter, and then he came in one day and said, "So, I don't ever want to make hats again.

Give me 20 grand.

The owner of the bank said he'd loan you the money."

We had a little small-town bank.

And, so, yeah, he gave me a 20-grand loan.

I wrote it off, gave it to the owner, and the shop was mine.

>> And that was it?

>> Yeah, that was it.

>> [ Laughs ] >> Yeah, it was cool.

>> So, did you grow up in an environment of craftsmen and artists?

>> I did.

My dad was an artist.

>> Yeah?

What did your dad do?

>> He did etching on ivory.

Scrimshaw... >> Scrimshaw.

>> ...is what my dad did.

>> That's pretty amazing.

How about your mom?

>> You know, she did everything from beadwork to -- She had done woodwork.

Very traditional.

And we weren't really a traditional family.

But, you know, I tell people this often -- when it's in your blood, it's in your blood.

We're full-blooded Winnebago Indian.

>> Oh, really?

>> Yeah.

>> So, did you grow up thinking that you were gonna work with your hands or be creative for a living?

>> I think I grew up knowing that I was gonna do that, not knowing how or -- If I said, at 52, I'd be in Georgetown, Texas, making hats, I'd say, "You're crazy."

>> Yeah?

>> But it's been good.

It's been fun.

And 23-plus years later, I still love it.

>> That's good.

>> Yeah.

>> And you've sort of been fortunate, 'cause you've done hats for quite a few movies.

>> I've been fortunate.

Maybe one of my biggest fans, one of my biggest guys -- Barry Sonnenfeld that directed "Men in Black."

>> Okay.

>> I got to make him personal hats.

>> Oh, okay.

>> So, through that, I've gotten connections.

But it's nothing that I lobby for.

I mean, people say, "So, did you go to L.A. or Hollywood and --" And I don't think I'm -- I'm not a good ambulance chaser.

>> I'm sort of the same way.

I'm not a sales kind of guy.

The money's not worth the stress.

>> You're right.

'Cause there's enough real stress as it is.

>> Sure.

>> So, I think we have over 100 orders right now.

>> Wow!

Good for you.

>> I'm under that stress of like, "Oh, we told this person six months.

Oh, we told this person three months."

>> How long does it normally take to make a hat?

>> The actual process is like 15 hours.

In that time, I could have made five hats.

I'd rather make one good hat.

>> Well, you have high standards.

>> I guess.

>> It's your name.

>> I think what shows is -- I'm a craftsman and I'm a good craftsman.

So that shows, you know?

>> What do you think brings somebody into your shop, as opposed to a shop to buy a mass-produced hat?

>> I think I'm fortunate in this area, 'cause a lot of people come in and they say, "You know, I've bought custom boots before and I know how long I wait.

I know I pay five times more than a stock boot.

But I want one custom boot in my life."

And I get those customers, fortunately, here that say the same things.

And, often, when we start talking, it's me saying, "Well, you just haven't found the right hat for you, and we'll find out what that is."

>> A hat really makes a huge statement about a person.

>> I think that's exactly true.

When I meet somebody, that's how I take it is like, "Let's make your hat."

And, so, often, we're sitting on these stools, going, "Okay, well, what's my hat?"

And the person goes, "I don't know."

>> So a little bit of discovery.

>> It is discovery.

If you execute that right, they come and pick up the hat and they go, "This is it."

>> Yeah?

>> Yeah.

>> What kind of questions do you ask them?

>> I look at a complexion.

Let's warm your complexion with this color, for one.

Are you afraid of wearing a hat?

Have you ever worn a hat?

It's an easy sale when somebody brings in a hat and says, "Copy this hat."

But it's funner when somebody's not had a hat.

>> Yeah?

Do the styles change often?

>> The styles change and the crown heights and the brim widths.

>> Yeah?

>> For the first time in many, many years, I'm seeing crowns go higher and brims go smaller.

>> Is there a favorite style that you have?

>> You know, this is a cattleman-style hat that I have, and it's the most common hat.

And I love it, but there's so many different hats.

Probably the classic Gus that's a big -- People refer to it as a Montana slope.

That's my favorite hat to make.

>> Is that the one with the, like, sort of a tall -- >> It does.

It has a dome to it and a pencil curl.

And I just built one in black, and it came out beautiful.

>> Yeah?

>> Yeah.

I mean, for me, it's not.

I mean, it's somebody that has to really carry it well.

I often tell the person, "You've got to stand up a little straighter to be wearing this hat," you know?

>> [ Laughs ] >> So, yeah, it's fun.

It's cool.

>> Do you look at yourself as a craftsman or as an artist ever?

>> I think both.

And, in saying that, I don't know, you know, what my path is yet again.

I keep it simple, that this feeds a family, and I'm fortunate to do and love to do what I do that pays my bills.

And this is fun.

This is still fun, to me, to do it.

>> So, what do you think?

Are you about ready to make a hat?

>> I am about ready to make a hat.

You know, with you, we're gonna do that same thing, which is fun, again, to say, "Okay, man, what would you wear the hat for?"

or "Where would you wear the hat?"

This is the fun part.

>> All right.

>> The making of the hat -- I've done it for 24 years, so that now is the old part, to me, that I don't -- I like to do it still, but it's demanding.

You're gonna find out.

But I understand you're a craftsman, so you know what it entails.

>> We'll find our way.

>> We'll find our way.

>> All right, cool.

Let's get started, man.

>> Okay.

Cool.

♪♪♪ >> The iconic cowboy hat was invented out of necessity.

When Philadelphian John B. Stetson ventured west, he recognized that the working settlers and cowboys needed headgear that was functional for their outdoor lifestyle.

Using a felting technique taught to him by his father, he created a wide-brimmed, waterproofed hat called the Boss of the Plains, which was specifically designed to protect the wearer from the rain and harsh sun.

Soon, variations of this design were introduced, and other hatmakers began to make their own contributions to the craft.

The popularity of these hats grew when celebrities of the day, such as Buffalo Billy Cody, Calamity Jane, and Will Rogers began wearing them.

The cowboy hat's status as a cultural icon was cemented.

Nate Funmaker has joined the ranks of the great hatmakers that came before him by crafting a product that is classic, fashionable, and durable.

So, you pulled a couple hats here, based on our discussions about what kind of hats I like and what I normally wear.

>> Yes.

>> So, what do we got here?

>> This first one is a little bigger brim than we wanted, but I like the flange brim on you.

That's kind of today's look.

>> All right.

>> But too big of a brim.

So, to me, another hat that has a flange brim -- The crown may be a little low, so we're gonna morph these two styles together.

>> These two here?

>> Yes.

Right in between the two.

And the crown's actually in between the two, also.

>> All right.

And what about this one?

>> And this is kind of the color that we both agreed on, which, to me, warms your complexion.

The shape will be similar to this.

This is an urbany style, too.

>> Okay.

>> Yeah.

>> Yeah, I really like this color.

>> I dig it.

Yeah, that's a cool thing.

>> Now, what does this crazy-looking machine do?

>> This is an 1895 measuring device.

>> 1895?

>> It was made to fit top hats in Paris, France, and hatters have been using for many, many years.

This sits on your head like so.

So, go ahead and pull her down there.

That's perfect.

Per-- Perfect.

>> [ Laughs ] And we're gonna get a miniature reading of your head size and head shape.

And we'll take it off.

>> That's crazy.

That's cool.

>> Then we'll take it off.

>> Oh, look at that.

>> So, then we've imprinted your miniature of your head size and head shape.

And I also will do a cloth-tape measurement of your head size.

So, this really is a double measurement to kind of help us both agree on the fit.

What I want is you, ultimately, to wear it.

>> For sure.

All right.

So, we have what we need, and now we can go in the back and make it.

>> Yes.

>> Right on!

♪♪♪ So, this looks like a hat already.

>> This is the really roughing of a hat.

It is a crown.

It is a brim.

This is how I receive it from the furrier.

It's a beaver-rabbit-fur mix.

This is our dyed color, called pecan.

And we're now at the blocking station to block it.

>> That's what this machine is, a blocking machine.

>> Yes.

>> And what does that do?

>> What it's gonna help us do is set the crown height and our brim width.

>> Is this crown taller than what we need now?

>> This crown is taller.

We're gonna shrink it probably a half an inch.

>> How do we shrink that?

>> Everything here is done with steam and heat.

>> [ Laughs ] This is a cool-looking machine.

>> It's an awesome machine.

It's got 40 teeth.

>> Oh, I see.

>> We'll crimp it down.

And once we start to steam, we can start to pull it.

>> Oh, I see.

As you're pulling that, these teeth are pulling out.

>> Correct.

>> So as it's stretching this out, it's reducing that crown.

>> Totally doing that.

We could either pull that lever or plunge it.

>> Do you have to put something in there?

>> Yes, we do have to put our hat block in.

So let's grab a block there and let's set her in.

This would go in there like so.

I mean, we really just kind of set it to our height and then start steaming it.

>> Ah!

>> Yeah.

>> Gets full of steam.

The fibers loosen up.

>> Correct.

>> Then you're able to manipulate it.

>> Correct.

>> That is crazy.

>> Once that steam is done, we'll let it sit for a bit.

>> Oh, okay.

>> Yeah.

>> What happens after that?

>> Then we go to our plating machine.

>> And what does that do?

>> So, our plating machine will then set the brim.

>> Awesome!

>> Yeah.

>> All right, well, let's kick up the steam and get going.

>> Let's get the steam rollin' here.

♪♪♪ It will start to hit the hat and soften it.

We need to go down about a half-inch on there.

Perfect.

We're about there.

Let's plunge it there.

Go ahead and plunge it a little bit.

Hike it down.

Good.

Good.

I like it.

So, let's hit that lever.

So, now feel that body.

I mean, it softened it.

And now, as it dries, it's gonna harden up, and we'll get to where we want it to be.

♪♪♪ >> I can't believe how flat this is out of that iron.

>> You know, we cured it, so now it's really set.

Now we're gonna set the crown.

So, we're gonna string it up on the block now.

>> Okay.

>> So let's get you going on that.

>> Push down on it?

>> Yep.

Push down on it right on the break and kind of knead it with your palm.

>> Okay.

>> And let me set the string.

>> I'm not hurting it?

>> You're not hurting it.

You can't hurt it.

So, let me set the string on here, like so.

>> Now, what does the string do?

>> The string is really setting it in place.

So, now get the runner -- >> And what do I do with this?

>> Put that right into the string and just kind of work around it, like that, and get down on it.

Good.

So, now we're to the break.

So, now, by hand, start to work it, get her set.

>> Oh, okay.

>> Yep.

Good.

And this is getting the hat blank to really tighten up onto the crown.

Perfect.

It's perfect.

>> Oh, wow.

Yeah.

>> So, see how I gripped it?

So, now we're set to where we're gonna cut this, like so.

And then we're gonna set it on the crown iron.

>> So, once this comes out of the crown iron, what's next?

>> So, next, we're gonna work on the band block.

And, by using the band block, this is gonna start to set your head shape into the hat.

>> Ah.

Okay.

So we'll put this in the hat.

>> Correct.

Into the hat, where the crown and the brim meet, will sit right here.

And then we'll start to hand-iron it.

>> Awesome.

>> It will set it.

♪♪♪ >> So, I see we've got this back out from the conformator, right?

>> Correct.

>> So, what does this represent?

>> So, what we did was -- we built up our band block to mimic the conformer reading.

>> I got you.

>> So, if you would, Eric, let's set it in and see what we got, as far as -- are we close with our fitting?

Yep.

So, line up the band block, the chalk marks, pull it.

Correct.

Just like that.

Perfect.

And, now, we're close, but we got some -- >> Couple gaps.

>> Yep.

So, that's why the iron comes in place, 'cause we're gonna really pull that, pull these two spots in with the iron.

>> And that's really the difference with your hats is the fact that you're really building them to fit a particular head to begin with.

>> We are.

>> So, now we're just gonna iron it?

>> We're gonna iron it.

We got our rag cloth we're gonna use.

Put it down like so.

>> Okay.

>> So, grab the iron.

It's super-hot.

♪♪♪ Good.

>> Yeah, I'm really hitting the... ♪♪♪ [ Sander whirring ] >> That's as much as you go there.

>> Yeah, it's much softer on top.

>> We took it down quite a bit quick.

[ Sander whirring ] >> Good?

>> Yeah.

♪♪♪ >> Good?

Look at that.

>> Pop it off, like this.

>> I got to be honest with you.

I was blown away that we were using a palm sander, with 100-grit sandpaper, on this thing.

What was the purpose of doing that, though?

>> Really, more than anything, it was giving it a good aesthetic look.

>> Okay.

>> But, two, I think, when it's a lighter -- My philosophy is -- when it's a lighter weight, the better it is.

>> It looks beautiful.

And then we cut the brim, and we cut that down to like 2 3/4?

>> Correct.

We did.

>> So, our next step is what?

>> Our next step is to put in the sheepskin sweatband.

Set it in.

Often, this is referred to as "seating" it.

So we're seating the sweatband.

Yeah.

>> That's beautiful-looking.

This looks like a machine that's probably best left for you to handle.

I see you don't even have a motor connected to it.

You just operate it by hand.

>> It's totally that.

My wrist is motoring.

It's good now.

It's sewed.

So, now we're tucking it in to see what we got.

>> Yep.

All right.

>> So, see where we're at now.

>> It fits amazing.

>> It's good.

It's close.

>> [ Laughing ] Holy smokes.

>> You know, every step, it gets closer and closer, but it's not there yet.

>> Yeah?

>> Yeah.

>> So, what is our next step?

>> Our next step now is -- we're gonna put it in the vermilion.

>> What's that?

>> Remember we did the conformer.

>> Uh-huh.

>> And what we got was the little -- the miniature blueprint of your head shape.

And we have that here with us.

>> Okay.

>> So, with the cloth tape, I went and measured it to make sure we were close.

So, let me hand this to you, and let's see what you get.

>> So, like that.

>> Perfect, perfect.

We're close.

We're very close.

>> Oh, my goodness.

Look at that!

>> Yes.

This will seat in, like so.

>> Uh-huh.

>> And then we'll heat it up.

>> So, we actually leave this in for the next step?

>> It actually sits in the machine while I'm doing it.

>> Very cool.

>> Yeah.

>> All right, well, let's get to it, man.

>> Sounds good.

♪♪♪ >> So, what are you getting ready to do here?

>> So, now we're putting the crown shape into the hat.

>> Really?

>> You do that by hand?

You don't use a block?

>> We have blocks -- some blocks for these, but this is the fun part is shaping it with steam and heat.

>> That is so cool.

[ Whooshing ] >> We steam it, and that softens the fur.

>> Uh-huh.

>> And it allows you to put the head shape into the hat.

>> I got you.

You just work it and manipulate it with your fingers, like that.

>> I do.

>> So, you have a basic shape in mind before you even get started, right?

>> Yeah.

>> That sort of has, like, a teardrop shape.

>> It is.

We're gonna put a semi-teardrop into it.

>> So, once this is done, then what's next?

>> So, once this is done, then we're gonna work on the brim.

>> Oh.

How's that?

>> We have an old wooden flange that we're gonna use to iron the hat.

>> Oh, very cool.

>> Yeah.

So, let's see where we are.

Nice.

It's getting closer.

>> Yeah?

>> It's fitting better, too, right?

So I like it.

♪♪♪ [ Whooshing ] Good.

♪♪♪ Kerrie, this is Eric.

Eric, this is Kerrie.

>> How are you?

>> Nice to meet you.

>> Nice to meet you.

>> So, next what we're gonna do is the trim.

So, that's what Kerrie does.

So she's gonna talk with you about that.

>> Oh, all right.

So, we put a little color on this.

>> We do, yes.

>> This is just amazing, isn't it?

>> It is.

>> It came together so fast, but it was a lot of work.

>> I loved it 'cause you worked on it a lot.

>> Well, I appreciate that.

>> That's when it's fun, 'cause you get to tell people, "I made it."

>> Yeah.

>> I think that's always -- >> That is fun, man.

>> So, I'll leave you with Kerrie, and we'll figure out the trim work on it.

>> All right.

Great.

>> Okay.

Cool.

>> So, what are you thinking?

>> Well, depending on the colors that you're wanting to wear it with.

We can go with something like this, which is a little more subtle.

>> Okay.

That's pretty neat-looking.

>> That is, but it's gonna limit the colors that you're gonna be able to wear the hat with.

>> Oh, okay.

>> Then you have something like this, which is a little brighter.

>> Mm-hmm.

I like that, too.

>> But, again, it will limit the colors that you're gonna wear it with.

>> I'd only be able to wear this with my orange shirts.

>> Right.

Or Browns.

>> [ Laughing ] All right.

>> You have thinner ribbon.

>> Oh.

I like the colors.

>> Thinner ribbon makes the crown look taller.

>> Yeah, I'm already 6'5".

[ Chuckles ] >> So, if we use something like this one here that has the color... >> Now, that is fancy.

I like this.

>> I like the colors in it, because it's gonna give you a little more versatility.

>> Yeah, I could pretty much wear this with all kinds of stuff.

>> And we can always make it a little more casual by putting some leather on it, as well.

>> I like that idea, too.

>> So, we could just wrap this around.

>> I like this a lot.

My wardrobe basically consists of blue jeans.

>> That will match just about anything then.

>> That's great.

This is awesome.

Now, where do we go from here?

>> I'll take this ribbon and make the band.

And then I will stitch the band onto the hat.

>> Well, since there's sewing involved, I'll just watch.

>> Okay.

>> [ Laughs ] ♪♪♪ What do you think?

>> I think it's great.

>> Yeah!

>> What do you think?

>> I dig it, man.

It looks great.

>> You built it with me.

That's always the fun part.

>> Thank you so much.

I had a great time.

I was one of those guys who always wanted to wear a hat but never thought it would look right.

A few years ago, I just went for it, and I'm glad I did.

A little confidence is all that was needed.

I really appreciated Nate's story about finding his way into becoming a hatmaker.

He believed in himself and understood that faith and persistence will always prevail.

♪♪♪ >> Legacy is about the things that you can pass on.

You can pass on your wisdom... your skills... >> How about this?

>> Air filter.

>> This down here?

Proper tire pressure would be?

>> 35 PSI.

>> ...and maybe you can pass on something just a little bit more.

The Ford F-150, a proud supporter of "A Craftsman's Legacy."

♪♪♪ >> To discover more about "A Craftsman's Legacy" and the craftsmen we feature, please visit our website.

And you can also follow us on social media through Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram.