♪ ♪ >> From the editors of Relish.com, we bring you Moveable Feast.

♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ >> STONE: Today we're in beautiful Carmel, California.

>> Running with scissors, never good.

>> STONE: Where we're joining forces with chef Justin Cogley.

>> And we'll use a little bit of this for the texture.

Do, like, a fake noodle.

>> STONE: And James Syhabout.

>> There's just so much to learn.

You know, it's just, like, it's a never-ending process.

>> STONE: We're blending different wines, each fantastic on its own, but together...

Isn't it wild?

It's changed dramatically.

We're free-shopping at the shore for beautiful briny seaweed collected straight from the beach.

>> I had no idea where I was, I looked it up on Google Maps, and all of a sudden I was five blocks from the ocean.

>> STONE: I've never really worked with seaweed before, so for me, it's a day of culinary experimentation.

And most of it goes swimmingly.

Most of it.

(loud sizzling, crackling) So the oil was a little hotter than I thought.

(laughter) >> Coming up next on Moveable Feast with Relish.

>> Major funding provided by: >> Ladies and gentlemen, your attention, please.

(gecko clears throat, feedback squeals) >> GEICO would like to take a moment to say thank you to our military service members at home and abroad for all their hard work and sacrifice.

We all sleep easier knowing you're out there keeping us safe.

And on a personal note... (jet engines roar, gecko's speech muffled) (crowd cheering) (exhales) Just needed to get that off my chest.

Thank you.

>> GEICO-- proudly supporting the military for over 75 years.

>> We can't just take from nature, so we collaborate.

Ocean Spray works with nature every day to farm in a sustainable way.

♪ ♪ >> Ocean Spray is a proud sponsor of Moveable Feast.

>> At Pure Leaf, the most important ingredient in making tea is saying no.

We're committed to saying no to artificial flavors and sweeteners in our brewed iced teas.

♪ ♪ >> I am Errico Auricchio, the founder of BelGioioso Cheese.

I came in 1979 from Italy with my family and the memory of Italian cheese.

♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ >> We're out on the Monterey peninsula on the central coast of California.

And we're right in the middle of the Monterey Bay National Marine Sanctuary.

This is the center of all the marine action on the West Coast of the United States.

>> STONE: So this is your garden.

>> Exactly.

Well, this is my good friend Michael Graham, he's one of the foremost authority on seaweed in the United States.

>> STONE: Very cool.

So how much of this seaweed can you actually eat?

>> All of it, all of it.

It might not taste good, but everything here is non-toxic.

>> STONE: How does it taste?

>> Very, very succulent.

>> STONE: James Syhabout is executive chef at Oakland, California's Commis, which earned its first Michelin star a mere four months after opening.

And now, some eight years later, it's doubled-- two stars.

His Thai mother and Chinese father settled in Oakland as refugees from Laos, and James absorbed techniques from Thai and Chinese cooking that he continues to use today.

>> Like to use sea lettuce for hot pickling, we ferment seaweed, confit seaweed.

I mean, we try all different projects, and some work, and some don't.

>> STONE: Justin Cogley is executive chef at today's venue, Aubergine at L'Auberge Carmel.

But he started his professional career on ice-- literally.

>> Yeah, so I was a professional ice skater for many years.

It was a great way to travel and really affirm my love for food.

>> STONE: A triathlete and avid forager, Justin gets his inspiration from mushrooms, edible flowers, and seaweed he sees each day on his morning trail run.

Dude, how are you in shorts right now?

(shivers) >> (laughs) Acclimation.

>> STONE: I'm not very experienced with seaweed, so I'm going to take some of this nori.

I don't know what the (bleep) I'm going to do with it, but I'm going to take it.

(chuckles) >> This is ogo heaven.

>> Think I'm going to make a little roasted mushroom broth, and I'm going to add sliced abalone to it with some dried and then fresh seaweed.

I think I'll use a little bit of this for the texture.

Do, like, a fake noodle, right.

>> STONE: That's awesome.

♪ ♪ >> STONE: I'm just going to take some of this.

It almost looks like a chervil.

>> It's called microcladia.

>> STONE: Microcladia.

Chervil of the sea.

(laugh) >> That's a great name.

>> STONE: What would you say are the best ones to fry?

>> Actually, you know what, the nori will fry up really well.

The lettuce will fry.

>> STONE: What are you going to do with that sea lettuce?

>> I'm going to make a sauce verte, like a coastal version, just for our grilled lamb, a little condiment.

>> STONE: Wow, seaweed and lamb, that's different-- cool.

>> Running with scissors.

Never good.

>> That's the California kombu.

That plant will grow ten to 15 years.

And if you actually cut through that part you're holding, James, the stipe, you'll see growth rings, just like you see on trees.

>> STONE: Have you tried making a dashi out of it?

>> Yeah, we'll take some and put a stock on, you know, like, as our base for our cooking.

>> STONE: I was thinking of just doing a really simple spring potato dish.

>> Nice.

>> STONE: So I was thinking maybe I could... >> Cook the potatoes in... >> STONE: In the actual dashi, yeah.

>> Use this for a little Dungeness crab presentation.

>> Seaweed ranch dressing.

>> Seaweed ranch dressing.

I like your umbrella.

>> Like that?

I want to get some beach mustard.

Get some more ingredients for sauce verte.

Beach mustard.

Sea rocket.

>> STONE: So is it spicy, James?

>> Yeah, it resembles, like, horseradish, a little bit of wasabi.

It's really good with the lamb.

It clears up your sinuses.

>> STONE: Sure does.

(sniffs) Whoo!

(laughter) ♪ ♪ >> This is a very special spot.

We're only about 12 miles from the Pacific Ocean.

We can feel the wind blowing, we can see the sunshine, we see the hills behind us, well-drained soils, the elevation.

These are all the things that help make this a very special vineyard.

Grapes like to grow where people like to live.

They like warm days, cool nights, low humidity, very Mediterranean and temperate climates.

Vines are very smart.

They get us to plant them in the most beautiful places in the world.

(Stone chuckles) These are some baby grapes for the 2017 vintage.

This is about a 30-year-old chardonnay vine.

This will produce the Talbott Sleepy Hollow Chardonnay.

♪ ♪ And here we go, gentlemen, a rare treat.

♪ ♪ This is the barrel room at Talbott that contains all of the chardonnay that we make.

>> STONE: David, one thing I really thought would be cool is if you show us a little bit about blending wine.

Because as chefs, we're constantly blending flavors and trying to figure out the right dish.

>> Absolutely, Curtis.

Chefs deal with flavor, and so do winemakers.

You try to get the whole to be so much more than the sum of the parts.

We have all these flavors to work with, and how we bring them together is where that magical thing happens.

So start with 100% new, French oak barrel.

(glasses clink) ♪ ♪ Take a little sip, think about it.

And then we will add to what's in your glass.

>> STONE: It's pretty good.

(laughter) I don't want to add anything to it.

>> I hear this all the time.

"Oh, this is perfect, bottle it just like that."

But imagine something greater.

So let's just go down to the next row here.

This is a different oak and a different part of the vineyard, harvested on a different day.

And this is just a way to flesh out those flavors.

>> STONE: If it's the same fruit, you harvest it on a different day you'll have different levels of sugar... >> Sugar and ripeness.

>> STONE: Right.

♪ ♪ How do you think that's changed it?

>> It's added a whole different complexity to it.

You know, just like when you harvest a cantaloupe one day, and the next day it's a totally different flavor.

>> Like when we cook sometimes, we do everything to taste, no set recipes.

You know, we go with what our palate tells us.

Like it needs this, it needs that.

It's pretty cool.

>> Very true-- so next step.

If you think about it as a spectrum of sound, we were dealing with some nice mid-range and some nice high-end.

This adds a little bit of base note to the wine, and gives it a bit more richness and density.

>> It's amazing how it's changed so much... >> There we go.

>> ...in the last five minutes even.

>> STONE: Isn't it wild?

It's changed dramatically.

So who's going to use the chardonnay in a dish?

>> I've clearly drank the most, so I think this is going to really complement... (laughter) ...complement my dish.

I have a little abalone planned with some nice roasted mushrooms.

I think the weight of this wine is really going to be able to complement that.

>> Beautiful.

Abalone's a wonderful pairing.

>> STONE: Do you want to join us?

Maybe you can bring a couple of bottles.

>> I'll bring the wine, you cook the food, that's a match made in heaven.

All right, cheers.

>> We'll see you there.

>> STONE: We'll see you.

>> I'll see you tonight.

♪ ♪ >> L'Auberge Carmel, originally built in 1929.

It used to be apartment buildings.

It has been renovated and turned into a 20-room hotel with a nine-table fine dining restaurant.

♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ >> STONE: All right, chef, we're in your kitchen.

Pleasure to be here.

What are you going to make?

>> First we're going to do is, make a little broth for the abalone.

We've collected all this great seaweed.

The fresh kombu that we harvested this morning.

You can see how much gelatin has already come out, natural gelatin of the kombu.

So this will be the base for the broth.

Abalone's real delicate, so we want to try to make a real delicate broth to match that flavor profile.

>> STONE: Let's see it.

>> A touch of olive oil here.

Shallots and scallions and garlic.

>> STONE: Uh-huh.

(sizzling) >> Just let that sweat down just a touch, yeah?

>> STONE: Right.

>> So this is onion seaweed, we call it, because it smells so much like onion.

And it's really, really to take this to the next level, we have some dried shiitake mushrooms.

Now if we only had some wine.

Did you manage to bring any back from the... >> STONE: I gotcha.

>> Nice.

>> STONE: The chardonnay.

>> Chardonnay, yeah.

>> STONE: From our friend Dave.

>> I'm just going to add some of the broth.

(sizzling) So now we're talking about, this is the roasted green tea stems.

>> STONE: It smells unbelievable.

>> Just lightly smoked.

We just make it like a, like normal tea-- four minutes, can't be easier than that.

Okay, now we have this broth after about four to six minutes, and we're just going to strain it right into the pan here.

>> STONE: Beautiful.

>> The next part of this dish is the abalone, of course, which is farmed right here in Monterey Bay.

We pop these out, lightly pound them, and then we sous-vide them really gently, slow in some of their shucking liquid that comes out.

>> STONE: Beautiful.

>> Just going to warm it up in a little bit of this olive oil.

>> STONE: Well, it's a super-fibrous muscle isn't it?

So you've got to soften it up somehow.

>> Correct.

You can see it just cuts right like that.

>> STONE: Wow!

>> Pretty incredible.

Okay, now we're going to plate this up.

>> STONE: Yeah!

I'm just lurking around with my spoon here.

Like a desperado, it smells so good.

>> We'll start with the little abalone mushroom.

And I'll take our abalone.

A little bit of sea salt here.

Lemon zest.

And, of course, we have to add some of our ogo, our mermaid's hair that we collected this morning.

You know, just to pretend like it's a little fake noodle dish.

A little bit of the broth.

Just a couple more zests of lemon.

May I?

>> Of course, yeah.

Nice little chunks of abalone in there, yeah, there we go.

>> Can't tell I'm having the abalone or the mushroom.

>> STONE: Wow!

That is the most tender abalone I've ever eaten in my life.

>> Try some of this mermaid's hair.

>> Grown right here in Monterey Bay.

(Stone chuckles) >> STONE: Okay, chef, what's going on?

What dish are you going to make first?

>> I think we can do some grilled squash.

Different types of squash.

Ronde de Nice, pattypan squash, yellow zucchini, green zucchini.

So I'm going to throw those guys on the grill a little bit later.

In the meantime, we're going to make a classic beurre blanc.

Going to start with some minced shallots.

Lemon verbena.

Just pick the leaves.

>> STONE: Yeah.

>> You always want to use a dry wine just to balance out all the butter we're going to add to it a little bit later.

>> STONE: You could have just chosen one of those chardonnays that he'd already made, and you chose the most acidic one for your beurre blanc.

>> We're kind of making our own blend now, hopefully I can do the winemaker justice.

But hope he doesn't mind a little bit of verbena in his wine.

>> STONE: I think he's going to like it, don't worry.

So you're going to reduce that down.

>> Yeah, I'm going to reduce this wine, shallots, and verbena to au sec, meaning dry.

And then I'm going to start tempering my butter, one cube at a time.

So beurre blanc's basically a suspension of water droplets and fat.

It's kind of meditative and therapeutic to whisk in a cube at a time.

♪ ♪ Justin?

>> Yes.

>> Can you help me out?

I'm in the weeds.

>> You're in the weeds?

Of course.

Anything for you, chef, here you go.

>> STONE: All right, so Justin's going to make that, and you're going to show me the lamb sauce.

>> Yeah, so lamb sauce, we're going to do a sauce verte, another French classic sauce.

We're going to make a coastal version of it, you know, with this guy, the mortar and pestle.

Justin, what's this called again?

>> Suribachi.

>> Suribachi, start it with two cloves of garlic.

I like the flavor of anchovies, salinity.

Also umami.

(scraping) >> STONE: So I notice you're doing it in a mortar.

Why would you do that instead of a food processor?

>> A food processor, it just chops everything.

But a mortar and pestle, you're pounding it to release essential oils, you're grinding.

And you actually really taste, like, the labor that goes into it.

Yeah, it makes a ton of difference.

>> STONE: I agree.

>> I'm going to add in my parsley.

I'm going to add some of this wonderful sea lettuce as well.

Beach mustard.

>> STONE: It's crazy, it's pretty spicy, isn't it?

>> Really spicy, yeah.

>> STONE: It's got, like, a real wasabi.

Smells great.

>> STONE: The smell, the aroma that it lets off.

>> Yeah, it's something you don't get using a blender.

Add in my olive oil, fold in some chives.

>> STONE: You strike me as a chef that likes to roll up his sleeves.

>> For me, it's the ideology of a learning concept.

There's so much there to learn-- like, today, I learned lots.

Like seaweed oil, I found out about a new tool.

You know, it's just, like, a never-ending process.

It's like, I just want to keep that spirit.

>> STONE: Well, it's obviously working.

You've won your second Michelin star in... How many years have you been open?

>> Eight years.

We'll be eight years next month.

>> STONE: That's unbelievable.

>> Next is, the important part is acid.

I like to use red wine vinegar.

(scraping) Justin, can you give me a taste for me, please?

>> STONE: It's punchy.

>> Yeah, you get a lot of punch from the beach mustard.

>> STONE: Spice from the mustard, the astringency of the vinegar.

>> Yeah, I'm excited to see how this goes on the grilled lamb.

>> STONE: So this lamb is grass fed.

And what they do is they harvest it probably a little younger so they have a little less time on the grass, so it develops a really delicate flavor.

I know I'm biased, but it is beautiful, beautiful lamb.

♪ ♪ >> STONE: So I would never have thought to pick this up off the beach.

This kombu, you made this stock earlier.

And I'm just going to strain it off, and then taking these beautiful little locally grown potatoes, that's it-- I'm just going to cook them like that until they're just fully cooked.

And now I'm going to fry some seaweed.

The color of this is just so unbelievable.

So I want to sort of try and fry this in big pieces.

So I've got hot oil.

I imagine this is going to fry super-fast.

And maybe spit a little, as well, so... (loud sizzle, crackling) So the oil was a little hotter than I thought.

(laughter) So the way I'm going to do it is drop the lid on it really quick to stop it from splashing up.

You ready?

(loud sizzle) >> Nice.

♪ ♪ >> STONE: And then before it gets too dark, I'm going to take it out and just set it over here on some paper.

Can you remember the name for this one, Justin?

>> It's called sea chervil.

>> STONE: I have no idea how this is going to fry, but we're about to find out.

(sizzle) (crackling) The first sea lettuce that I've fried has gone beautiful and crispy.

And this has kind of all broken up.

But that's what I love about this, you know, we're sort of just learning.

So the last seaweed that I got was this nori.

I've cut it into, like, a fine sort of julienne.

(sizzle) (tapping) So three different types of fried seaweed.

I'm going to use all three.

Let me pull out the potatoes.

Oh, yeah, nice and creamy.

Just a little of this miso, with a nice big spoon of butter.

(sizzles) So I kind of wanted this just to look like brown butter, but then with the flavor of miso.

Add my potatoes to the miso butter.

So I didn't season the potatoes at all, because I figure I'll get all the salinity from the seaweed, and even these salted capers.

I've got just a little white soy, and I think I'm going to finish it just with some of this fried seaweed, the capers, and maybe a little toasted sesame seeds.

>> Yeah, I think it's going to work out great.

>> STONE: It's going to be okay?

♪ ♪ >> We call this The Local because it has local corn in it, it has local peaches.

It's a very simple one to put together.

It's about an ounce of corn juice.

Corn off the cob, put through a juicer or put through a blender and strained.

Peaches right off the tree, cooked down in some simple syrup, and then put in the blender.

And next, just a touch of simple syrup.

So equal parts of sugar and water.

So this is a St. Germain elderflower liqueur.

Very special flower to this area.

As James used in his squash dish, there's a little bit of lemon verbena.

Next, vodka.

We'll just give it a nice two-ounce pour.

There we go.

Just a little bit of fresh lemon.

And just some ice.

So do my best Tom Cruise action, right?

(chuckles) ♪ ♪ A little fresh lemon verbena on there.

Perfect summer cocktail for this beautiful day.

>> Mm... that's really good.

♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ >> This is the Monterey Bay abalone with some abalone mushrooms, and a broth basically made of seaweed and tea.

It can't get any more local than this, so I hope you enjoy.

>> Yeah, it's delicious and with the seaweed here you really get a sense of the sea.

>> The green onions give it a lot of flavor and freshness.

>> Delicious.

>> The wine that we're enjoying is our Talbott Vineyards 2014 Sleepy Hollow Chardonnay.

It's rich, nice acidity, impeccably balanced.

I think with this abalone dish you might find a little slice of heaven.

Cheers!

♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ >> STONE: Hi, guys.

James, what did you make?

>> Grilled lamb racks with sauce verte, coastal version.

Foraged sea lettuce with a little beach mustard and a little bit of red wine vinegar.

And secondly, grilled summer squash, classic sauce beurre blanc with lemon verbena and watercress salad.

>> Nice-- this is a little Dungeness crab right from Monterey Bay with charred lemon and fennel salad.

>> STONE: And with two of California's best chefs cooking next to me, I just stood there with my mouth open all day.

So all I did was some potatoes cooked in a little butter with some miso and a few different types of seaweed that I deep-fried over the top with some capers.

Bon appétit.

♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ >> This is a strawberry shortcake.

It's a cream scone with chamomile-infused whipped white chocolate ganache, roasted strawberries.

>> Thank you.

(applause) >> STONE: You guys live on one of the most beautiful coastlines with gorgeous food and passionate producers.

>> Cheers.

♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ >> For more information about this episode, recipes, and behind-the-scenes fun, make sure you go to Relish.com, follow us @MoveableFeast_TV on Instagram, and like us on Facebook.

See you next time on a Moveable Feast with Relish.

>> Major funding provided by: >> Ladies and gentlemen, your attention, please.

(gecko clears throat, feedback squeals) >> GEICO would like to take a moment to say thank you to our military service members at home and abroad for all their hard work and sacrifice.

We all sleep easier knowing you're out there keeping us safe.

And on a personal note... (jet engines roar, gecko's speech muffled) (crowd cheering) (exhales) Just needed to get that off my chest.

Thank you.

>> GEICO-- proudly supporting the military for over 75 years.

>> We can't just take from nature, so we collaborate.

Ocean Spray works with nature every day to farm in a sustainable way.

♪ ♪ >> Ocean Spray is a proud sponsor of Moveable Feast.

>> At Pure Leaf, the most important ingredient in making tea is saying no.

We're committed to saying no to artificial flavors and sweeteners in our brewed iced teas.

♪ ♪ >> I am Errico Auricchio, the founder of BelGioioso Cheese.

I came in 1979 from Italy with my family and the memory of Italian cheese.

♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ >> I am rolling.

>> ALEX: We're in Portsmouth, New Hampshire.

Welcome to Ogunquit, Maine.

Today we're in Boston.

We're in Martha's Vineyard.

We're headed to Cottage City Oysters.

♪ ♪ And how often do you hand-shape them?

>> Every time we handle the oyster, we're actually chipping them by hand.

>> This time of year, we've consolidated a lot of the growing to this little market garden right here.

>> You can try, too, if you want to cut one.

>> ALEX: I would love to.

>> Yeah, perfect.

>> ALEX: Nailed it.

♪ ♪ We're doing something a little unusual today.

I'm milking a cow, oh, my God.

♪ ♪ (cow moos) >> So we're going to hop on into the bog.

So you just want to stay right on these planks till you get to the end.

We don't want you to go swimming yet.

>> ALEX: No!

Knowing me, I'm going to fall in.

This dish is a celebration of ingredients here in New England.

♪ ♪ This is real farm cooking.

>> Farm cooking.

♪ ♪ >> ALEX: This guy's a big guy.

(laughter) I just wanted to say thank you for joining us for tonight's feast.

♪ ♪ Eggs are very temperamental.

>> Correct.

>> It's amazing to be able to watch the steps go and then... (indistinct chatter, laughter) ♪ ♪ >> ALEX: Cheers, everybody.

Thank you for having us.

>> Thank you.

>> ALEX: Cheers, everybody.

(people whooping) ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪