♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪ -Today on "America's Test Kitchen," Erica makes Bridget bouyourdi, Adam reviews whisks, Jack talks all about mozzarella, and Becky makes Julia green shakshuka.

It's all coming up right here on "America's Test Kitchen."

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♪♪ -Any dish that is built around cheese as the singular focus, well, that recipe's tops in my book.

And today we're making a dish from Greece called bouyourdi.

And that takes feta and it bakes it with lots of aromatic ingredients.

Now, it's a dish that's meant to be shared with friends, and my friend Erika is here to show me how it's done.

-Yes, because what could be better than creamy baked feta with tomatoes, peppers, chilies?

-Yes.

-Bouyourdi is a classic taverna meze meant for sharing, and today I'm excited to share it with you, Bridget.

-Thank you.

-Let's get started with our tomato.

I have one 8-ounce tomato that I'm just gonna core.

And now I will slice off two 1/4-inch rounds.

-I see we got out the cleaver today.

-Oh, yeah.

And this is one of my favorite knives.

And it's especially lovely for tomatoes that can sometimes be squishy and soft.- -Mm.

-So I've got my two tomato rounds set aside, and now I'm just dicing up the rest of our tomato.

And I'll add it right to my bowl.

And for our chili, I'm using a longhorn chili.

It's a long, green chili comparable to the light green chilies you'll find throughout Greece and the Mediterranean.

-Mm-hmm.

-And I just want a nice, moderate heat.

So I'm just gonna use half.

-Okay.

-Don't want it to be too spicy.

And like the tomatoes, I'm gonna slice off two rings.

And I'll set those aside with the tomatoes.

And then the rest, I'll just mince up.

-Okay.

Now, if you couldn't find a longhorn chili, would there be a substitute?

-Absolutely.

You could use a jalapeño pepper or serrano.

Just be sure to keep those seeds in.

Because we want it to be a little spicy.

Alright, we've got our chili.

So I'm just gonna add it right to the bowl with our tomatoes.

-Okay.

-So to our tomatoes and chilies, I'm just gonna add 1/4 of a green bell pepper that I've chopped... and 2 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil and a teaspoon of oregano.

Now I'm just gonna mix that all together.

Alright.

And now I'm just gonna pour it in the bottom of our terracotta baking dish.

And I'm using a cazuela because it's the closest thing to the traditional baking vessels that you'd find throughout Greece and the Mediterranean.

-Okay.

-And I'm just gonna smooth our veggies into an even layer.

So I have a 7-ounce block of sheep's-milk feta cheese.

I'm gonna place it right in the center, right on top of our diced veggies.

In American supermarkets, cow's-milk feta tends to be a lot more common, but sheep's-milk feta is still available and definitely worth seeking out.

-I think the sheep's milk is a little bit more tangy... -Definitely.

-...a little bit more grassy.

-Yeah.

-There's a lot more information on our website all about feta.

-And now I'm gonna take those tomato slices right on top of the feta.

A little overlapping is okay.

And those chili rings, I'm gonna place them on either side.

The tomatoes on top and the vegetables on the bottom insulate the feta to keep it nice and moist so it doesn't dry out when it's baking.

-Love it.

-So now I'm just gonna finish it off with a tablespoon of extra virgin olive oil and 1/2 teaspoon of oregano.

Cover it with aluminum foil.

And we're ready to bake.

So I'm gonna bake it at 350 degrees on the upper middle rack just until the diced vegetables start to soften and the tomato slices start to soften around the edges.

It's been about 25 minutes.

-Mm-hmm.

-So now I'm just gonna take off the foil.

-Let's see what you got under there.

Huh.

Doesn't look much different.

-It doesn't.

But the vegetables have actually nicely softened.

-Okay.

-And they will continue to cook because I'm gonna finish it off in the broiler for about four but up to seven minutes.

-Okay.

Get some nice browning on there?

-Exactly.

Some browning just around the edges of the tomato and chili.

-Lovely.

Mmm.

-It's been about five minutes.

So you can see that there's nice browning around the edges of the tomato and the chili slices.

-Mmm.

-It's ready.

-Alright.

I will get the oven for you.

-Thank you so much.

-Mmm.

The nose knows.

Oh, my goodness.

-There is indeed a lot of flavor in here, and this looks beautiful.

I'm gonna finish it off with 1/2 teaspoon of bukovo... -Mm-hmm.

-...which are red chili flakes that season so much of the cuisine of Greece and the Mediterranean.

-Mm-hmm.

-But if you can't find bukovo, then you could just sub red pepper flakes.

-Okay.

-That'll work just as well.

This is gonna add an extra burst of heat.

-Definitely worth seeking out, though?

-Oh, yeah.

-Okay.

-So we've got our bukovo on top... -Mm-hmm.

-...but we need some bread to serve with it, some nice, crusty bread.

So traditionally this would be brought to the table with the bread and the bouyourdi piping hot...- -Mmm.

-...and everybody would just dive right in.

-Mm-hmm.

-But today I'm gonna serve up a plate for you and for me.

-Alright.

Perfect.

-Alright.

Put some of that nice softened feta in there.

-Oh.

And the brine from the feta mingling with that.

I cannot wait to taste that.

I'm gonna grab some of this beautiful bread.

-Mmm.

-And I spoon it on my bread.

Is that right?

-Mm-hmm.

Yep.

-Mmm.

Super-seasoned, briny feta wins the day every time.

But when it's warm and infused with these flavors... -And what I love is that you get that burst of spicy heat.

It's like a dual spicy heat from the longhorn and the bukovo.

-Mm.

Mm-hmm.

-But then the feta comes in and just quells everything with just this salty, briny, rich, creamy flavor.

-Underneath, it's as if they've been poached in that brine.

-Ooh, yes, that's exactly right.

-Mmm.

Thank you so much, Erica.

-Thank you, Bridget.

-Well, if you want to make this exceptional dish, it starts by layering diced tomatoes and longhorn chilies in a baking dish.

Top with sheep's-milk feta and more tomatoes and chilies.

And then bake and finish under the broiler.

Don't forget those chili flakes and that crusty bread.

So from "America's Test Kitchen," dreamy, creamy, briny, spicy bouyourdi.

I half expected this to be gone by the time I came back over here.

Oh, this little bit of char on the tomato.

Can't wait.

-Mm.

I know.

♪♪ -A whisk is an essential tool for all types of recipes, both sweet and savory.

And I have a surprisingly strong opinion on such a seemingly simple subject.

-Then you work in the right place.

-Mm-hmm.

-We're loaded with strong opinions here, and whisks notwithstanding.

-Mm-hmm.

-You know, if your whisk is not comfortable to hold and efficient to use, a really long whisking session like whipping cream... -Mm-hmm.

-...that can be really tiring.

-And annoying.

-And irritating on top of it.

We tested 10 different whisks.

-Mm-hmm.

-The price range was $7.25 up to $28, and they come in different styles.

This one, with a relatively broad head, is a balloon whisk.

This one has a much narrower head.

That's a French whisk.

-Mm-hmm.

-And then you can get something pretty much in between with a medium-sized head.

That's like a hybrid-style whisk.

-Mm-hmm.

-We had each type in our lineup.

But, you know, our testers found that it wasn't the style that made the most difference.

There were some other factors.

One of them was weight.

-Mm-hmm.

-And I want you to try whipping some cream with this guy right there.

It's a duplicate of this one.

-Goodness.

This is like a hand weight.

-[ Laughs ] You didn't know you were gonna get to skip the gym later, did you?

-No.

Okay, first off, this handle is much too big for me.

It's too thick for my little hand, and I don't like it.

I don't feel like I have as much control.

-And you haven't even started whisking yet.

-No.

It's way too heavy.

This is a dog of a whisk.

I do not like it.

-You do have your opinion.

-I do not like it at all.

There is no flexibility to it.

It's way too heavy.

-Okay, so you are picking up on a number of the factors that our testers went right for.

Number one is the weight.

-Mm-hmm.

-It ranged from 2.5 ounces to about 8 ounces in our lineup.

At a little under 8 ounces, that was one of the heaviest ones here.

-Mm-hmm.

-And it made testers' arms tired.

-Mm-hmm.

-Second was the handle.

-Yep.

-Again, with testers who had smaller hands, found that it was a little too hard to grip.

It was metal.

It wasn't comfortable.

-It's slippery.

Yeah.

-It slipped.

Yeah, exactly.

Now I want you to try the one with the black handle.

That's a duplicate of this one right here.

-Ooh, that's lovely in the hand, I have to say.

Has this bulbous end right here that really fits nicely, but it tapers so that I can pinch it with my forefinger and my thumb.

So that if I was trying to pin a piece of butter in a saucepan, it would be good.

This is lovely.

It's agile and the tines are flexible, so I really can adjust how much pressure I'm using to be most efficient.

-You are very astute, Julia.

-Mm.

-That was one of the lightest whisks that we tested at just under 3.5 ounces.

So a lot less arm fatigue.

And the handle, because it's grippy and contoured and cushioned, easy to hang onto.

It's also in the sweet spot for length.

I don't know if you picked up on that, but 11 to 11 1/2 inches was our sweet spot.

And if you're whisking with a whisk that's 12 inches or more, it just feels like overkill for, like, a small job, like a vinaigrette or something.

-Mm-hmm.

-And another thing that you picked up on is the relative flexibility of the tines.

That first one you tried, which is this one... -Mnh-mnh.

-...they're really rigid -Mm-hmm.

-And it gave sort of an unresponsive feel.

Some testers described that as a blunt instrument, whereas something like this, the second one you tried... -Yeah.

Perfect.

-...it's a lot more flexible.

-Mm-hmm.

-So it's flexible enough to really get into the corners of a saucepan, but it still gives you enough resistance and enough scraping power.

And this, in fact, is the winning whisk.

-Aha!

-This is the OXO Good Grips 11-inch balloon whisk.

It's $11 and it has a medium-sized head that testers liked.

It's got 10 wires as opposed to a whisk like this, which just has six wires.

-Wimpy.

-Wimpy.

So you get more coverage with the winner and, you know, it's the right length, it's the right weight, it's really comfortable to hang on to.

And this is the last word in whisking.

-[ Laughs ] So there you have it.

For the ultimate whisk, choose the OXO Good Grips 11-inch balloon whisk at $11.

♪♪ -I'm talking about one of my favorite subjects today -- mozzarella.

And I'm going to explain the wonderful world of Italian cheese.

So let's start with fresh mozzarella right here.

So if it is made with cow's milk, you will see on the label sometimes fior di latte.

And so this is a high-moisture cheese.

You really want to use this in a salad with a drizzle of olive oil, maybe a balsamic vinegar.

Our favorite brand is Bell Gioioso.

Now, buffalo mozzarella is also fresh mozzarella.

It's here in the front.

And the difference here, it is made with milk from water buffalo.

Now, water buffalo herds were wiped out during World War II.

And so the production really switched from water buffalo to cow's milk.

But you can still get this cheese from Italy.

The difference is it's got much more fat.

It's a little tangier.

Grassy notes.

You want to make sure that when you're shopping, you're getting buffalo mozzarella from Italy.

And it's got the DOP sticker on it so that you know you are getting the real deal.

You want to make sure that you are serving this with some wonderful bread and olive oil.

Next up we've got block mozzarella.

Now, this is probably the thing that we're most familiar with.

It was actually invented here in the United States by Italian Americans who wanted a cheese that was a little bit more shelf stable.

This is pizza cheese.

This is also the cheese that you want to be using in baked ziti or inside of lasagna.

Our favorite brands are Polly-O and Galbani.

Now, for those of you who want shortcuts, and I know you do want your shortcuts, you want the already shredded cheese.

It's got anti-caking agents on it, and so you never, ever want to eat this in an uncooked application.

It is okay in a casserole dish, but if you're gonna buy it, Sargento is the test kitchen's favorite.

Next up we have burrata, and this is such a clever invention.

It comes from Puglia in the 1950s, and somebody had the idea of taking all those shreds of leftover fresh mozzarella and stuffing them inside balls of fresh mozzarella and adding cream in the process.

Now, I think there are two ways to think about using burrata.

You can either put it with, like, heirloom tomatoes.

It's a little creamier and sort of milky and runny.

I also love it on top of warm dishes.

So take a Dutch baby out of the oven, or even a pizza that's already got block mozzarella, and then rip open the burrata and put it on top.

It is so delicious.

Our favorite brand is Lioni.

Now, if you love the center of burrata, it's actually something called stracciatella.

You can use the stracciatella in the same way that you would use burrata, except it's even runnier and creamier and more delicious.

Next up we have smoked mozzarella.

And as the name indicates, it is fresh mozzarella that's been smoked.

During the smoking process, it loses a fair amount of moisture.

So this is a great choice inside a sandwich where you don't want the bread to get soggy.

It's obviously got a little bit more personality and you get smoky flavor.

And last up we have scamorza.

So this is fresh mozzarella that is braided during the shaping process and then aged.

It's often smoked.

It's really lovely in a pasta casserole, also wonderful in sandwiches.

So there you have it.

All different types of mozzarella for all different types of culinary uses.

Enjoy some today.

♪♪ -Shakshuka is a classic North African dish made with eggs poached in a fragrant red sauce made with tomatoes and red peppers.

And it's become so popular that cooks have started to put their own spin on things.

And today, Becky is gonna show us one of the more popular variations.

-Yeah, we're gonna be making a green shakshuka, which trades that red sauce for leafy greens.

Makes this really nice, fresh, light bed for those eggs.

We're gonna start with Swiss chard today.

This is a pound of chard.

And, you know, chard has this rib.

A lot of times, when you're prepping chard, you do them one by one... -Yep.

-...to cut out that stem because it takes longer to cook.

-Mm-hmm.

-But for this recipe, I have good news.

We're gonna be cooking this enough that that mid rib is gonna soften, so you don't have to do anything crazy.

Just lop it off like that, right?

-Oh, nice.

That is a lot easier.

-Yes.

Much easier.

-Now, I noticed you're using white chard.

So chard that has a white stem.

So are you using the white on purpose?

-That's right.

You want to use just the regular old chard for this.

You want to have a nice, beautiful green color.

So we're gonna slice these stems about 1/4-inch thick.

And if you want to turn on that heat to medium, I have 6 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil there.

-Mm-hmm.

-Get that going.

That'll give some nice richness to the dish.

Alright.

So we have about 2 cups of our stems here.

I'm gonna put them into the olive oil.

-Now, the stems have a more potent flavor than the leaves.

-They do, and they take longer to cook, which is why we're starting them first.

And then I have one onion... ...8 cloves of garlic, sliced.

Nice and garlicky.

It goes great with the greens.

And then 1/2 teaspoon of salt.

-Oh, that smells good.

-Doesn't that smell good already?

-I love Swiss chard.

I find myself putting it on everything.

-Alright.

We're gonna let this cook for 8 to 10 minutes.

We want all the veggies to soften up and just start to get a little bit brown.

While we do that, let's come back and we'll prep the leaves.

-Okay.

-So here's all the leaves.

We want these to be about 1 1/2 inches to 2 inches in size.

They're gonna cook down quite a bit, too.

So the best way to do that is just to kind of cut them long way.

And then just go right across like this.

-Nice.

Just a rough chop.

-Yep.

We'll come back in 8 to 10 minutes when all the veggies are nice and soft.

-Okay.

-Alright, Julia, it's been about 10 minutes.

You can see the veggies are just a little bit brown at the edges there, nice and soft.

-You can smell the garlic and the onions.

They've started to cook down and caramelize ever so slightly.

-There's really no better smell.

Onions and garlic.

-It's true.

-I mean, come on.

-And olive oil.

-Yeah, actually there is.

We're gonna make it a little bit better.

I have coriander... -Ooh.

-...which is a little citrusy.

2 teaspoons of that and then 2 teaspoons of cumin as well.

-Mmm!

-So we're gonna let this go for about one minute just until it gets nice and fragrant.

Alright.

That's looking really good.

Now let's add our chard leaves.

Put those in.

-It's gonna be a full skillet.

-That's right.

This is gonna cook down.

We're just gonna get everyone in there.

And then I also have a full 2 cups of parsley.

That's a lot of parsley.

We're sort of treating it as a green in this recipe.

2 cups of parsley.

Let's pile that in there.

Alright.

Now we're just gonna wilt this down.

That's gonna take two or three minutes.

-Mm-hmm.

-And we'll put the cover on.

Yeah, it's nice.

We have a glass lid here so we can enjoy it and watch that happen.

Alright, let's take a peek.

It's been about three minutes.

-Mm-hmm.

-You can see that those chard leaves are nice and wilty now.

-Mm-hmm.

-So now let's add our third green.

We had the chard, the parsley.

And now I have... -That is a big bowl of spinach.

-I know.

It's a pound, but it's all gonna wilt down.

And this is great because you don't have to prep anything.

Just take it out of the bag or the box and it's ready to go.

So I'm gonna do half at a time here.

We can't fit it all.

Alright.

Can we squeeze in a little bit more?

We got to try to fit in about half.

-Of course you can.

-Okay.

So we're gonna let this wilt down.

It'll take a couple of minutes.

And then we'll add the other half and we'll let that wilt down for another few minutes.

-Okay.

-It's been three minutes.

Everything should be nice and wilted now.

Ooh.

-Isn't that just like spinach?

You start off with a barrel full and you wind up with, like, a cup.

-I know, look at all the greens we put in there.

Pounds and pounds.

Alright, so I'm gonna take 1 1/2 cups out of here.

We want to make a sort of sauce.

We need some liquid to poach those eggs in.

-Mm-hmm.

-So we're gonna puree a little bit of this.

-Alright.

-So we'll do 1 cup... and 1/2.

So 1 1/2 cups.

-Mm-hmm.

-Put that into a blender.

Alright.

Now I'm adding 1 1/4 cups of water.

And then I have an ounce of bread.

I mean, we're serving it with bread.

So it's the perfect thing to use as a little bit of a thickener.

Then I have a teaspoon of sumac.

Oh.

-Ooh.

-Do you like sumac?

-I do.

It has that raisiny... almost like sun-dried tomato.

-It's kind of lemony, citrusy.

-Mm-hmm.

-It's used in a lot of Middle Eastern, Mediterranean cooking.

-Mm-hmm.

-If you can't find it, you could serve the dish with lemon wedges.

-Mm.

-But sumac is pretty easy to find, so... -It is nowadays.

-Yeah.

So hopefully you won't have a problem.

So we're putting a teaspoon of that into the blender.

-Okay.

-And 1/2 teaspoon of salt.

Alright.

So let's blend this for one minute.

We want it to be nice and smooth.

-That is a beautiful color.

-Oh, I know.

Isn't that gorgeous?

-Mm-hmm.

-And I'm gonna pour our beautiful puree on top.

And we didn't cook the greens so long that they turned that army green.

They still all have a really nice, fresh green color here.

So I just want to smooth this out over the top.

That's looking pretty good.

Alright.

Now, this is where our eggs are gonna poach.

So I'm gonna make eight little divots... -Mm-hmm.

-...just so we have markers, places to put the eggs.

So we want eight in total.

-Little nests.

-Yeah.

Three, four and then one in the center here.

There we go.

And now it's time for the eggs.

I have eight eggs.

This is enough to serve four -- two eggs per person.

So instead of cracking the egg directly into the skillet here, I'm just gonna crack each one into a bowl first.

It just makes it easier to add those eggs.

So you just put the egg in each indentation.

You can see it's not gonna hold all the white.

It's just sort of a place to cradle that yolk.

-Okay.

-And that's fine.

And last one.

Okay.

There's number eight.

-Alright.

-I'm just gonna take some of the green liquid here and just spoon it over the edges of the whites.

What we want is those whites to be nice, just set, but we still want the yolks to be a little bit jammy, creamy.

The warm sauce is gonna help -- Just the edge of the egg whites.

You don't have to cover the whole thing.

It's gonna help that cook through.

-This is a good trick whenever you're poaching eggs in a sauce, which we do a lot.

Covering up the whites makes sure that the egg cooks at the same rate.

-Yeah, it's always a problem having the whites and the yolks getting, you know, to the exact point that you want them.

-Mm-hmm.

-This helps a little bit.

Alright.

That looks pretty good.

We have some of the whites covered here.

And now I'm gonna turn the heat on to medium.

We'll bring it to a simmer.

-Mm-hmm.

-Then we'll put the lid on and we'll let this cook for about three minutes until the yolks just start to film over.

-Yum.

-Alright.

It's been about three minutes.

I can see through the skillet that the yolks are just starting to film over.

-Mm-hmm.

-So we're getting there.

We're gonna cook this another one or two minutes until the whites are just set and the yolks are still just a little bit runny.

About two more minutes with the lid on.

Alright.

It's been a couple of minutes here.

Let's take a peek.

-Ah!

It's like a magic trick.

-Oh, those look good.

I'm just gonna give it a little jiggle.

You can see how the yolks are moving there.

That's what we want.

-Mm-hmm.

-So I'm gonna kill the heat.

And now we're just gonna garnish this up a little bit before we serve it.

We're gonna serve it straight from the skillet.

-I love it.

-Beauty of shakshuka.

-Yeah.

Right?

-So I have 1/4 cup of goat cheese here.

-Mmm -You could also use some feta if you want.

-Mm-hmm.

-It's gonna add just a nice little bit of salty tang.

Alright.

And now I have 2 tablespoons of parsley.

-Uh-huh.

-More green.

-More green.

-Pretty that up.

And then just a little more of that sumac.

I have 1/2 teaspoon just for that nice, beautiful red color.

So there's our beautiful shakshuka.

-Gorgeous.

-Gorgeous.

Let me serve you some.

-Mmm.

-So those whites are just set.

-Mm-hmm.

-You can see the yolk is still a little bit runny there.

-Yeah.

-Alright.

And that beautiful sauce.

-Oh, yeah.

With the goat cheese melting.

Oh, yum.

-Now I have a couple more treats for us, Julia.

These are toasted garlic chips.

-Ooh.

-So good.

-I see they're salted a little bit, too.

-Yeah.

A little bit of salt.

So you can find the recipe for these garlic chips on the website.

And also a little bit of hot sauce is nice on this.

-Oh, yes, please.

-You like it kind of spicy?

-I do.

-Me too.

-Ooh, perfect.

And a piece of bread.

-Have to have bread.

-Oh, yeah.

-Remember we used a little bit of the bread in the sauce?

-Mm-hmm.

-And now this is the rest of the loaf.

-Alright, well, I'm going for the yolk.

Oh, perfect.

-Oh.

-Jammy on the bottom.

Liquid on the top.

-Look at that.

There you go.

Mm.

-Mmm.

-Mmm.

-It has such a hearty flavor.

-Mm-hmm.

-I mean, there's no meat in there.

-Mm-hmm.

-You used water.

You didn't even use broth for the liquid.

But it is so round and rich in terms of flavor.

You taste the chard.

You taste the spinach.

You don't really taste the parsley, but you know it's there as a backbone.

-Yeah, it's so silky.

And then you've got -- It's garlicky and you got... -Garlicky.

-...little hints of the sumac and coriander and the cumin.

-Ohh.

Becky, this is delicious.

Thank you for showing me how to make it.

-I'm so glad you like it.

-If you want to make this fresh take on shakshuka, give the charred stems a head start in the skillet before adding the leaves.

Puree some of the greens with some bread in a blender.

Then spoon the sauce over the egg whites when cooking.

From "America's Test Kitchen," a wonderful new recipe for green shakshuka.

You can get this recipe and all the recipes from this season, along with our product reviews and select episodes at our website, AmericasTestKitchen.com/TV.

This is my kind of food.

-Oh, I know, me too.

-Oh.

-Celebrate 25 years of "America's Test Kitchen" and visit our website anytime to access the newest seasons' full episodes, fail-proof recipes and ingredient and equipment reviews at AmericasTestKitchen.com/TV25.

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To order, head to our shop at AmericasTestKitchen.com/25book.

"America's Test Kitchen" is brought to you by the following.

-Plugrà European style butter was created for all chefs, cooks, and bakers, slow-churned with 82% butterfat for a smooth texture and more pliability for flaky crusts.

Plugrà -- from professional kitchens to your home.

-On an American Cruise Lines' journey along the Columbia and Snake Rivers, travelers retrace the route forged by Lewis and Clark more than 200 years ago.

American Cruise Lines' fleet of modern riverboats travel through American landscapes to historic landmarks where you can experience local customs and cuisine.

American Cruise Lines, proud sponsor of "America's Test Kitchen."

-The Breville Paradice 9 food processor.

Prepping for daily and future meals happens with a wide feed chute and multiple ways to dice and slice, all in a compact footprint.

Includes Breville Plus with tailored how-to's for your appliance.

Master every moment.

-Smithey -- cast-iron and carbon-steel cookware.

Thoughtfully crafted.

Made with passion.

Used with passion.

Welcome to the world of Smithey.

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