
Rain & Rainbows
Season 3 Episode 308 | 26m 21sVideo has Closed Captions
Andreas visits the fishing capital of Bergen, the wettest city in Norway.
In the fishing capital of Bergen, the wettest city in Norway, Andreas prepares local trout and re-creates the city's famous fish soup.
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New Scandinavian Cooking is presented by your local public television station.
Distributed nationally by American Public Television

Rain & Rainbows
Season 3 Episode 308 | 26m 21sVideo has Closed Captions
In the fishing capital of Bergen, the wettest city in Norway, Andreas prepares local trout and re-creates the city's famous fish soup.
Problems playing video? | Closed Captioning Feedback
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Learn Moreabout PBS online sponsorshipTHIS PROGRAM IS FUNDED BY THE FOLLOWING... ♪ ♪ ♪ NORWEGIAN SALMON IS OCEAN FARMED BY CRAFTSMEN BLENDING TRADITION WITH TECHNOLOGY.
>> ♪ >> HI, AND WELCOME TO "NEW SCANDINAVIAN COOKING," FROM BERGEN IN WESTERN NORWAY.
I'M ANDREAS VIESTAD.
TO ODERS, BERGEN IS NORWAY'S SECOND CITY, BUT TO THE PEOPLE WHO LIVE HERE, IT'S THE CENTER OF THE UNIVERSE.
THEY'RE FIERCELY PROUD OF THEIR CITY AND ITS UNIQUENESS.
AND IN TODAY'S PROGRAM, WE'LL CELEBRATE BERGEN, ITS RICH HISTORY, AND ITS MANY CONTRIBUTIONS TO SCANDINAVIAN COOKING.
IN MANY WAYS, YOU CAN SUM UP THE HISTORY OF BERGEN IN FIVE INGREDIENTS.
IT'S COD FROM NORTHERN NORWAY, SARDINES FROM THE FJORDS, SALMON AND TROUT FROM RIVERS AND OCEAN, AND THE UBIQUITOUS POTATO.
AND I'M GOING TO COMBINE THESE FIRST FOUR IN ONE DISH.
IT'S SIMPLE FINGER FOOD THAT TELLS A LOCAL HISTORY.
AND THE FIFTH INGREDIENT, THAT'S LAMB OR MUTTON.
I'M GOING TO MAKE AN ANCIENT BERGEN RECIPE, POTTED LAMB.
THE BERGEN REGION IS THE CRADLE OF MODERN AQUACULTURE.
I'M GOING TO USE FJORD TROUT TO MAKE TWO VERY DIFFERENT DISHES -- ONE COLD, FRESH-TASTING DISH WITH CUCUMBER, AND ONE WARM AND SWEET DISH WITH BEETS AND HORSERADISH CREAM.
AND THEN I'M GOING TO TRY MY HAND AT THE CITY'S MOST FAMOUS DISH, ONE OF THE BEST SOUPS I KNOW, THE BERGEN FISH SOUP.
BERGEN IS A CITY OF COMMERCE, AND IT ALWAYS HAS BEEN.
THE HARBOR HERE WAS ESTABLISHED IN 1070, AND THERE'S ALWAYS BEEN THIS BUSTLING TRADE HERE.
FROM THE 14th CENTURY AND FAR INTO THE 18th CENTURY, THIS PLACE WAS TEEMING WITH GERMAN MERCHANTS, WHO CREATED A DIRECT LINK WITH THE REST OF EUROPE.
AND THE THING THAT WAS TRADED WAS FISH, FISH, FISH AND FISH.
FIRST IT WAS COD AND OTHER FISH FROM NORTHERN NORWAY, THEN, IN MORE MODERN TIMES, IT HAS BEEN CANNED FOOD.
AND TODAY, OF COURSE, MODERN AQUACULTURE DOMINATES.
I'M GOING TO START OFF BY MAKING A DISH THAT CONSISTS OF FOUR OF THE GASTRONOMICAL BUILDING BLOCKS THAT BERGEN WAS BUILT ON.
OR, TO PUT IT MORE SIMPLY, I'M GOING TO MAKE FINGER FOOD, CONSISTING OF POTATO, STOCKFISH, SARDINES AND SMOKED TROUT.
I'M GOING TO START OFF WITH THE STOCKFISH.
THIS IS STOCKFISH, OR DRIED AND SALTED COD, THAT HAS BEEN RECONSTITUTED IN WATER FOR ABOUT TWO DAYS.
AND THEN YOU CAN JUST PICK IT APART LIKE THIS.
AND THE REASON WHY I PICK THE FISH INTO VERY SMALL PIECES IS THAT I'M GOING TO MAKE A SORT OF NORWEGIAN BRANDADE -- A MIXTURE OF STOCKFISH AND POTATO.
I'VE GOT ONE BOILED POTATO HERE THAT I'LL PEEL AND CRUSH, AND THEN I'M ADDING NEUTRAL VEGETABLE OIL.
THE RESULT NOW IS QUITE MILD... AND CREAMY.
THEN I'M SLICING SOME SMOKED TROUT INTO VERY THIN SLICES.
AND I'M FILLING THE SMOKED TROUT WITH THE NORWEGIAN BRANDADE, AND THEN SOME SARDINES -- NORWEGIAN BRISLING SARDINES.
AND THEY ARE THESE TINY FISHES LIKE THIS THAT ARE SALTED, SMOKED, AND PLACED IN OIL.
AND THEY CAN KEEP FOR YEARS.
AND THESE ARE ALL INCREDIBLY IMPORTANT INGREDIENTS.
THE POTATO IS WHAT WE'VE SURVIVED ON IN NEWER TIMES, COD WAS OUR FIRST COMMODITY, AND CANNED FISH WAS INCREDIBLY IMPORTANT IN THE DAWN OF INDUSTRIALIZATION.
AND, OF COURSE, IN NEWER TIMES, AQUACULTURE IS IMPORTANT, AND THAT'S REPRESENTED BY THE SMOKED TROUT.
BUT THESE ARE ALL BIG FLAVORS.
WE NEED SOMETHING FRESH AND CRISPY ALONG WITH IT.
SO, I'M JUST GOING TO SLICE SOME CARROT.
AND CUCUMBER.
A LITTLE DILL.
AND HERE IT IS.
A FRESH MOUTHFUL THAT'S RICH WITH HISTORY.
YOU CAN FIND ALL THE RECIPES AT OUR WEBSITE, NEWSCANCOOK.COM.
FISH IS NOT THE ONLY THING THAT HAS BEEN IMPORTANT HERE.
WHAT WE MIGHT TERM THE FIFTH GASTRONOMICAL BUILDING BLOCK IS LAMB OR MUTTON.
THE FARMS AROUND BERGEN ARE QUITE FERTILE, BUT THERE'S HARDLY A FLAT SURFACE.
SO, IT'S NOT A GOOD PLACE FOR BIG FARMS AND DAIRY PRODUCTION, BUT IT IS AN AREA WITH LOTS OF GRAZING LAND IF YOU'VE GOT AN ANIMAL THAT LIKES SMALL SHRUBS AND BUSHES, AND THAT'S WHAT LAMB DOES.
WELL, I'M GOING TO MAKE AN ANCIENT DISH FROM BERGEN CALLED POTTED LAMB.
I'M AFRAID IT'S SEEN AS SOMEWHAT UNFASHIONABLE THESE DAYS, BUT IT IS GREAT-TASTING, IT'S SIMPLE TO MAKE, AND IT'S QUITE VERSATILE.
YOU CAN MAKE MANY DISHES OUT OF IT AS WELL.
YOU JUST TAKE LAMB, PREFERABLY FROM THE NECK AREA, AND YOU PLACE IT IN A POT IN LAYERS.
AND THEN YOU ADD SOME SPICES.
MUSTARD.
AND QUITE A FEW CLOVES.
I'D SAY A TOTAL OF ABOUT 10 CLOVES TO THIS POT.
AND BLACK PEPPERCORNS.
LSPICE.
AND BAY LEAVES.
AND I ADD TWO BAY LEAVES AT THE TIME AS WELL.
A LITTLE BIT OF SALT, NOT TOO MUCH, AND THEN ANOTHER LAYER OF MEAT.
SOME MORE SPICES TO FINISH IT OFF.
AND THEN WATER, JUST ENOUGH TO COVER THE MEAT.
AND THEN COVER WITH A LID, AND BAKE IN THE OVEN AT JUST BELOW BOILING POINT, SO A LITTLE LESS THAN 100° CELSIUS, AROUND 200° FAHRENHEIT.
AND IT HAS TO BAKE FOR A LONG TIME -- MORE THAN SIX HOURS -- BUT PREFERABLY OVERNIGHT OR 24 HOURS.
THE LONGER IT COOKS, THE MORE THE FLAVORS HAVE TIME TO DEVELOP.
AQUA FARMING PROBABLY STARTED IN CHINA MORE THAN 2,000 YEARS AGO.
THE NORWEGIAN AQUA FARMING IS TO A LARGE EXTENT THE RESULT OF INNOVATIONS FROM THE LAST FEW DECADES.
WHILE THE EARLY VERSIONS USED DAMS, THE NEW ELEMENT WAS USING THE SEA ITSELF.
NORWEGIAN FJORDS, WITH COLD CLEAR WATERS AND STRONG CURRENTS, WERE IDEAL.
MORE AND MORE ENVIRONMENTAL RESTRICTIONS HAVE BEEN INTRODUCED, AND ONLY BY ADHERING TO THIS YOU'RE ALLOWED TO SELL THE FISH AS NORWEGIAN FJORD TROUT.
>> ONE OF THE TYPICAL DISHES OF THE BERGEN REGION IS WHOLE-COOKED SALMON OR TROUT.
THIS IS A DISH THAT IS TYPICALLY SERVED AT MID-SUMMER AND FOR BIRTHDAYS AND OTHER SPECIAL OCCASIONS.
I'M GOING TO COOK IT USING FJORD TROUT.
AND WHENEVER YOU COOK A WHOLE FISH, BUT ESPECIALLY WHEN YOU'RE COOKING FJORD TROUT, YOU'VE GOT TO BE CAREFUL ABOUT THE TEMPERATURE YOU EXPOSE IT TO.
DON'T EXPOSE IT TO TOO MUCH HEAT.
THAT WILL RUIN THE FINE TEXTURE AND THE FINE FLAVOR NUANCES.
SO, I'M GOING TO START OFF WITH COLD WATER IN A FISH-POT LIKE THIS, TO WHICH I'M ADDING SALT.
A FEW BAY LEAVES.
A FEW CLOVES.
SOME BLACK PEPPERCORNS.
AND A LITTLE ROSEMARY.
A SPLASH OF VINEGAR.
IT'S ALWAYS SMART TO ADD A LITTLE BIT OF VINEGAR TO THE COOKING WATER WHEN YOU'RE COOKING FISH.
IT HELPS TO GIVE THE DISH A HINT OF FRESHNESS.
IT ALSO HELPS TO NEUTRALIZE AN ODORANT CALLED TRIETHYLAMINE, WHICH CAN GIVE FISH DISHES A SORT OF FISHY NOTE -- AN UNPLEASANT FISHY NOTE.
I'M JUST ADDING THE FISH TO THE WATER SO THAT IT COVERS THE FISH COMPLETELY.
NOW, IT'S VERY GOOD TO HAVE A COOKING THERMOMETER SO THAT YOU CAN MONITOR THE TEMPERATURE INSIDE THE FISH.
I'VE MADE A TEMPERATURE CHART SHOWING THE TEMPERATURE, AND IT STARTS OFF WITH COLD FISH AND COLD WATER.
AFTER 30 MINUTES, THE WATER IS BOILING, BUT THE CORE TEMPERATURE OF THE FISH IS ONLY 50 CELSIUS OR 122 FAHRENHEIT.
THEN I TURN OFF THE HEAT, BUT THE TEMPERATURE INSIDE THE FISH WILL CONTINUE TO RISE.
THE HIGHEST POINT IS 72 CENTIGRADE -- THAT'S 162 FAHRENHEIT.
AND THAT'S JUST PERFECT FOR THE FISH.
AND HERE IS THE FINISHED RESULT.
IT LOOKS WONDERFUL, DOESN'T IT?
I'M GOING TO LET IT COOL OFF IN ITS COOKING LIQUID WHILE I MAKE TWO DIFFERENT DISHES THAT GO VERY WELL WITH THE FJORD TROUT.
NORMALLY YOU SERVE COOKED SALMON OR TROUT WITH A CUCUMBER SALAD.
WELL, I'M GOING TO MAKE SOMETHING QUITE SIMILAR, BUT ALSO QUITE DIFFERENT -- A CUCUMBER PUREE.
AND I'M PEELING OFF ABOUT HALF THE SKIN.
THE SKIN CONTAINS A LOT OF FLAVOR, AND A LITTLE BIT OF BITTERNESS AS WELL, SO YOU DON'T WANT TOO MUCH OF IT.
AND I'M JUST CUTTING IT INTO A BLENDER.
ADDING A LITTLE BIT OF WHITE WINE VINEGAR.
AND THEN PUREE IT.
AND ONCE IT'S PUREED... MM.
THEN I SEASON IT AND ADJUST THE FLAVORTH A LITTLE BIT OF SUGAR.
A LITTLE BIT OF SALT.
ONE SHALLOT, FINELY CHOPPED.
A LITTLE BIT OF DILL.
HMM.
AND THE RESULT IS, IT'S NOT JUST FRESH, IT'S ULTRA-FRESH.
DOESN'T THAT SOUND LIKE I'M TRYING TO SELL YOU CHEWING GUM OR SOMETHING?
WELL, IT IS ULTRA-FRESH, AND I'M NOT TRYING TO SELL YOU ANYTHING.
AND THEN A SPRINKLE WITH SOMETHING CRUNCHY.
COULD BE CROUTONS, BUT WHO LIKES CROUTONS?
I'M USING ALMONDS INSTEAD.
HERE IT IS, A REALLY FRESH-TASTING STARTER.
BUT THE THING ABOUT FJORD TROUT IS THAT IT'S INCREDIBLY VERSATILE AND IT GOES WITH MANY DIFFERENT FLAVORS.
I'M GOING TO MAKE ONE MORE DISH TO GO WITH THE COOKED FJORD TROUT.
HERE I'VE GOT SOME COOKED BEETS THAT I'VE JUST COOKED IN A LITTLE BIT OF WATER, AND THEY'VE GOT BIG, BOLD AND RICH, GENEROUS FLAVORS.
WHEN I'VE GOT A SMOOTH PUREE LIKE THIS, I COULD ADD LOTS OF OTHER FLAVORS, BUT I'M NOT GOING TO ADD ANYTHING.
I WANT THAT PURE, SMOOTH, SWEET TASTE OF THE BEETS.
LOOK AT IT.
IT IS SHOCKING -- THAT RED COLOR.
WELL, I'M GOING TO CONTRAST THAT WITH A YOGURT HORSERADISH CREAM.
I'VE GOT PLAIN YOGURT THAT I'M ADDING TO A CREAM SYPHON.
THEN I GRATE FRESH HORSERADISH.
BUT I CAN'T JUST PUT THE GRATED HORSERADISH INTO THE SYPHON, BECAUSE IT'LL ACTUALLY PLUG THE OPENING AND YOU CAN HAVE ALL SORTS OF TERRIBLE EXPLOSIONS.
SO, I'M JUST GOING TO PRESS THE MOISTURE, THE JUICES OUT OF THE HORSERADISH.
AND THEN CHARGE THE SYPHON.
THEN I MIX THIS EVER SO GENTLY.
AND THIS IS A DISH THAT TAKES THE FLAVORS IN A COMPLETELY DIFFERENT DIRECTION.
IT'S MUCH MORE WARMING, IT'S MUCH MORE HEARTY.
YOU CAN SERVE IT AS A MAIN COURSE OR AS A WARM STARTER.
YOU CAN FIND ALL THE RECIPES AT OUR WEBSITE, NEWSCANCOOK.COM.
THIS HERE IS PROBABLY THE GREATEST BOOK EVER WRITTEN ABOUT FISH.
"NORTH ATLANTIC SEAFOOD," BY ALAN DAVIDSON.
AND IN HERE, YOU FIND A WHOLE CHAPTER ON NORWAY.
AND MOST OF WHAT IS WRITTEN ABOUT NORWAY IS WRITTEN ABOUT BERGEN -- WHAT DAVIDSON CALLS NORWAY'S FISH CAPITAL.
AND ALMOST EVERYTHING HERE ABOUT BERGEN LEADS UP TO ONE THING, ONE RECIPE -- THE RECIPE FOR THE BERGEN FISH SOUP.
THE BERGEN FISH MARKET IS ONE OF THOSE PLACES WHERE YOU CAN FIND REALLY, REALLY FRESH FISH.
THE FISH WILL SPLASH YOU IN THE FACE BEFORE YOU BUY IT.
THIS IS A TANK FULL OF LIVE COD.
IDEALLY YOU SHOULD USE STOCK MADE FROM SMALL SAITHE THAT HAS BEEN BOUGHT LIVE AT THE FISH MART.
YOU CAN ALSO USE SMALL COD LIKE THESE.
AW, COME ON.
WHOO, WHOO, WHOO.
ONE OF THE THINGS THAT THE BERGEN FISH SOUP SHOULD CONTAIN IS FISH BALLS... WHITE AND SOFT... AND SALTY AND SWEET AT THE SAME TIME.
THIS IS THE SHOP THAT ALAN DAVIDSON WRITES ABOUT.
THE HAGELIN SISTERS HAVE BEEN OPEN SINCE 1929 AND MADE SOME OF THE BEST FISH BALLS IN THE WORLD.
THE WEST COAST OF NORWAY IS NOT JUST KNOWN FOR ITS WEATHER AND ITS FISH, BUT IT IS ALSO A CENTER FOR DESIGN AND INNOVATION.
MOST OF NORWEGIAN DESIGN SOLD INTERNATIONALLY HAILS FROM THE WEST.
NORWEGIAN FOOD TRENDS HAVE BEEN IN FLUX FOR A FEW DECADES.
AND NOW THERE'S A MOVEMENT BACK TOO BASIC, TOWARDS THE INGREDIENTS THAT BENEFIT FROM THE NORWEGIAN NATURE.
LIKE FISH, GAME, AND ROOT VEGETABLES.
AND AFTER NEARLY 24 HOURS IN THE OVEN, THE POTTED MEAT IS READY.
AND... WHAT WE HAVE HERE IS AN AMAZING STOCK.
TIME IS SUCH AN IMPORTANT INGREDIENT.
IT GIVES THE FLAVORS TIME TO DEVELOP AND GET THAT REAL DEPTH.
THE MEAT ITSELF IS... MM.
IT'S SO AMAZINGLY TENDER.
AND YOU CAN SERVE POTTED LAMB, OF COURSE, AS A DISH OF ITS OWN, AND, OF COURSE, YOU CAN USE THE STOCK.
AND THAT'S WHAT I'M GOING TO DO WHEN I MAKE THE BERGEN FISH SOUP.
THE FRENCH BOUILLABAISSE IS ABOUT TEMPERAMENT -- BIG, BOLD FLAVORS -- BUT THE BERGEN FISH SOUP IS ABOUT BALANCE, ABOUT FINE-TUNING NUANCES.
I'VE SEEN RECIPES USING 1,000 WORDS TO EXPLAIN HOW TO DO EVERYTHING RIGHT.
WELL, I'M GOING TO TRY MY BEST.
AND I START OFF WITH THE MOST IMPORTANT THING, THE STOCK.
HERE I'VE GOT A LITTLE BIT OF OIL, TO WHICH I'M ADDING ONE SHALLOT, FINELY CHOPPED.
IT'S REALLY IMPORTANT TO USE THE RIGHT TYPE OF FISH WHEN MAKING A STOCK.
IT SHOULDN'T BE RED FISH, IT SHOULDN'T BE TOO FATTY FISH.
SO, HERE I'VE GOT SOME COD, THE TAIL AND HEAD OF A COD, LET'S SEE, SOME SAITHE, AND THE CARCASS OF HALF A HALIBUT.
ALL THESE FLAT FISH GIVE THE STOCK A REALLY, REALLY NICE HINT OF SWEETNESS.
AND COLD WATER -- IT'S SAID TO BE VERY IMPORTANT THAT YOU START OFF WITH COLD WATER AND THAT YOU SLOWLY BRING IT TO A BOIL, JUST AS WE DID WITH THE FJORD TROUT.
EXCEPT HERE WE'RE GOING TO CONTINUE COOKING TO EXTRACT AS MUCH FLAVOR AS POSSIBLE FROM THESE BONES AND CARCASSES.
AND I'M ALSO ADDING SOME CELERY GREENS, AND A FEW BAY LEAVES AS WELL.
ONE OF THE THINGS THAT THE BERGEN FISH SOUP IS FLAVORED BY IS ROOT VEGETABLES.
WHAT I DO IS I CHOP THE ROOT VEGETABLES NOW, AND THE FINER PARTS I'M GOING TO ADD TO THE SOUP LATER.
BUT THESE COARSE PARTS I'M ADDING TO THE STOCK RIGHT NOW.
AND JUST BEFORE THE STOCK STARTS TO BOIL, WHAT I DO IS I TRY TO SKIM OFF AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE.
OTHERWISE, I'LL GET A VERY CLOUDY STOCK.
AND I ALSO REDUCED THE TEMPERATURE A LITTLE, AND I DON'T WANT THE STOCK TO BOIL, BUT JUST TO SEETHE FOR ABOUT 20 TO 25 MINUTES.
NOW, THE STOCK SHOULD BE DONE.
IT'S BEEN SIMMERING FOR ABOUT 20 MINUTES.
AND IT'S GOT A REALLY LOVELY, FULL-FLAVORED BUT STILL MILD FISH FLAVOR.
AND I SEED THE STOCK THROUGH A KITCHEN TOWEL.
THAT WAY MY STOCK WON'T BE SO CLOUDY.
I'M BRINGING THE STRAINED STOCK TO A BOIL, AND THEN ADDING A BIT OF THE LAMB STOCK AS WELL.
ABOUT ONE-FOURTH OF THE SOUP, NOT MORE, SHOULD BE THE LAMB STOCK.
AND IF YOU DON'T HAVE LAMB STOCK, YOU CAN USE VEAL STOCK OR EVEN VEAL BOUILLON.
TOWARDS THE END I ADD THE FINELY CHOPPED ROOT VEGETABLES.
THEN I ADJUST THE FLAVORS.
FOR ONE, THERE'S NOT MUCH SALT IN HERE.
SO, WE'RE GOING TO NEED A LITTLE MORE SALT.
BUT THEN COMES A PECULIAR THING.
IT'S THE ADDITION OF SUGAR.
AND VINEGAR.
ONE OF THOSE BALANCES THAT WE'RE TRYING TO FIND IS THE BALANCE BETWEEN SWEETNESS AND TARTNESS.
THIS IS RED WINE VINEGAR.
TOWARDS THE VERY END, I'M ADDING THE FISH.
HERE, I'VE GOT COD, SAITHE, HALIBUT, WOLF FISH AND FJORD TROUT.
AND I'M ADDING THE FJORD TROUT LAST BECAUSE THAT'S THE MOST FRAGILE FISH.
YOU DON'T WANT TO OVERCOOK IT.
AT THIS POINT, THE SOUP IS NOT THICKENE ANY WAY, BUT IT WILL BE.
BUT AGAIN IN QUITE AN UNUSUAL WAY -- WITH THE ADDITION OF EGG YOLK AND SOUR CREAM.
IF YOU WANT THE SOUP TO BE EXTRA GENEROUS, YOU CAN ADD A LITTLE BIT OF GRATED CHEESE.
HERE, I'VE GOT A NORWEGIAN HARD CHEESE, COW MILK'S CHEESE.
YOU CAN ALSO USE GRATED PARMESAN.
WHEN THE SOUP IS DONE AND THE FISH IS COOKED, THEN I ADD THE FISH BALLS.
AND THE SOUR CREAM, EGG YOLK, CHEESE MIXTURE.
AND I JUST STIR IT IN AND TURN OFF THE HEAT.
REMEMBER THAT YOU CAN FIND ALL THE RECIPES AT OUR WEBSITE, NEWSCANCOOK.COM.
>> AND HERE IT IS.
>> FOR MORE OF THE "NEW SCANDINAVIAN COOKING" EXPERIENCE, VISIT OUR WEBSITE OR FACEBOOK PAGE.


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