>> WELCOME TO "JOSEPH ROSENDO'S TRAVELSCOPE," WHERE YOU JOIN US AS WE ACCEPT THE WORLD'S INVITATION TO VISIT.

[GRUNTS] >> TODAY ON "TRAVELSCOPE," I EXPLORE SOUTHERN ALBERTA, CANADA, WITH ITS MAJESTIC SCENIC BEAUTY, COWBOY HERITAGE, AND FIRST NATIONS PEOPLE.

>> "JOSEPH ROSENDO'S TRAVELSCOPE" IS MADE POSSIBLE BY: VOLVO'S OVERSEAS DELIVERY PROGRAM, WHERE BUYERS CAN PICK UP A NEW VOLVO IN SWEDEN, USE IT IN EUROPE, AND THEN HAVE IT JOIN THEM AT HOME; NO-JET-LAG JET LAG PREVENTION; AUBERGE RESORTS' DISTINCTIVE COLLECTION OF LUXURY RESORTS, RESIDENCES, AND SPAS.

>> ALBERTA, CANADA, IS AS LARGE AS TEXAS AND COINCIDENTALLY FAMOUS FOR ITS COWBOY HERITAGE, AS WELL AS ITS SCENIC ROCKY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARKS SUCH AS BANFF, JASPER, AND WATERTON LAKES.

KNOWN AS THE PRAIRIE PROVINCE, THERE ARE PLENTY OF WIDE-OPEN SPACES WHERE ONCE MILLIONS OF NORTH AMERICAN BUFFALO ROAMED AND FIRST NATIONS PEOPLE FOLLOWED.

MY EXPLORATION OF SOUTHERN ALBERTA AND ITS ABORIGINAL AND PIONEER HISTORY STARTS IN THE COSMOPOLITAN CITY OF CALGARY.

ORIGINALLY ESTABLISHED IN 1874 BY THE NORTHWEST MOUNTED POLICE AS PART OF AN EFFORT TO STEM THE TRAFFIC BETWEEN THE WHISKEY TRADERS AND THE ABORIGINAL PEOPLE, TODAY CALGARY AT 1.2 MILLION PEOPLE IS ONE OF THE LARGEST CITIES IN CANADA, AND IT STANDS AS A GATEWAY FOR THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS TO THE WEST AND TO THE EAST THE GREAT PLAINS AND THE LANDS OF THE BLACKFOOT NATION.

FOR THOUSANDS OF YEARS BEFORE THERE WERE NATIONAL PARKS AND COWBOYS, WHAT IS NOW ALBERTA WAS THE LAND OF THE BUFFALO AND THE BLACKFOOT FIRST NATIONS PEOPLE.

SOME OF THE EARLIEST SIGNS OF THEIR EXISTENCE CAN BE FOUND AT WRITING-ON-STONE PROVINCIAL PARK AMONG THE HOODOOS IN THE LARGEST CONCENTRATION OF ROCK ART ON THE GREAT PLAINS.

>> JOSEPH, COME UP AND HAVE A LOOK AT THIS AND SEE WHAT YOU CAN MAKE OUT, AND I WILL-- >> WELL, IT LOOKS LIKE A HUMAN BEING RIGHT THERE.

>> THAT'S EXACTLY WHAT THIS IS.

WE HAVE A NUMBER OF STYLES THAT WE SEE USED ON THESE PANELS, AND THIS IS ONE OF ABOUT 6 THAT SEEMS TO HAVE BEEN ADOPTED A LONG TIME AGO AND WERE PASSED DOWN THROUGH THE GENERATIONS, AND THIS STYLE WE'VE COME TO CALL A SQUARE-SHOULDERED PERSON BECAUSE THEIR NECKLINE IS STRAIGHT ACROSS.

PERHAPS THESE DIFFERENT NECKLINES REPRESENT DIFFERENT SACRED SOCIETIES.

THEY COULD BE EVEN DIFFERENT FIRST NATIONS GROUPS, BUT NO ONE'S ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN.

>> I KNOW THAT THE BLACKFOOT PEOPLE HAVE BEEN IN THIS AREA FOR A LONG, LONG TIME, BUT I DIDN'T KNOW THEY WENT BACK TO THE DINOSAUR ERA.

THAT'S WHAT THAT LOOKS LIKE.

>> A COUPLE OF INTERPRETATIONS BEHIND IT.

ONE IS THAT IT COULD REPRESENT ALBERTA'S ONLY LIZARD, THE MOUNTAIN SHORT HORNED LIZARD.

SOME PEOPLE FEEL, HOWEVER, THAT THIS IS NOT MEANT TO BE ANY SORT OF ANIMAL AT ALL BUT INSTEAD AN IMAGE OF THE LAND.

IF YOU TURN AND LOOK BEHIND YOU, THE SWEET PINE HILLS IN MONTANA.

FOR THE BLACKFOOT PEOPLE, THOSE HILLS AND THIS PLACE ARE ONE BIG UNIT, ONE BIG SPIRITUAL CONTINUUM.

THESE ARE SOME OF THE MUCH OLDER ONES.

>> BEAUTIFUL.

>> AS YOU LOOK AT THESE CIRCLES... >> MM-HMM.

>> MAYBE TRY TO IMAGINE WHAT YOU THINK THEY MIGHT BE.

>> A DRUM.

>> GOOD GUESS.

>> OH.

SHIELDS FOR A BATTLE!

>> THEY ARE.

>> AND HERE IS THE END RESULT OF THE BATTLE PERHAPS.

HERE'S TWO BODIES IT LOOKS LIKE TO ME.

>> AND THAT'S ONE INTERPRETATION.

HOWEVER, SOME FEEL IT'S JUST ONE DEAD PERSON AND THAT'S THEIR SPIRIT LEAVING THE BODY.

>> THAT WOULD MAKE SENSE.

>> IT CERTAINLY WOULD IN VIEW OF THE FACT THIS IS A BURIAL GROUND.

>> WELL, YOU KNOW, WE CAN'T LEAVE THIS SPOT WITHOUT SAYING SOMETHING ABOUT THE MORE RECENT PETROGLYPHS.

>> YES.

WE SEE A LOT OF GRAFFITI.

MANY OF VISITORS ASK, "IS IT NOT GOING TO SOMEDAY BE JUST AS VALUABLE AS THESE PETROGLYPHS?"

AS YOU LOOK AT HUTCHINSON, CAN YOU TELL ME WHAT THAT PERSON LOOKED LIKE?

>> NOT AT ALL.

>> WHAT THEY DID FOR A LIVING, HOW DID THEY DRESS, WHAT DID THEY EAT?

>> THE MOST SIGNIFICANT THING HE DID HERE WAS BE HERE.

>> EXACTLY, BUT FOR THESE PEOPLE, TELLS US THE STORY OF NOT ONLY AN INDIVIDUAL BUT THEIR CULTURE, THEIR WAY OF LIFE, THAT NOT ONLY THEY OWNED HORSES, THEY MUST HAVE KNOWN HOW TO TRAIN THEM.

THEY WERE RIDING THEM, AND THEY WERE BUFFALO HUNTERS.

>> BONNIE, THIS IS A DRAMATICALLY BEAUTIFUL VALLEY.

>> IT CERTAINLY IS, AND WE CAN IMAGINE BEING HERE 10,000 OR 15,000 YEARS AGO WHEN IT WAS CREATED BY GLACIAL MELTWATER JUST ROARING THROUGH HERE AND CARVING OUT THESE CLIFFS.

>> WHO LIVES THERE?

>> THAT WAS A NORTHWEST MOUNTED POLICE POST.

THE POST WAS BUILT TO STOP CROSS-BORDER TRAFFIC THAT WAS TAKING PLACE THROUGH THAT CANYON.

IT GOES ALL THE WAY INTO MONTANA.

>> YEAH.

>> SO IN THE 1800s, THE AMERICAN WHISKEY TRADERS WERE USING IT AS A SMUGGLING ROUTE.

THE POLICE POST WAS ALSO BUILT TO STOP FIRST NATIONS GROUPS WHO WERE RAIDING CAMPS.

THE BLACKFOOT OBSERVED THE U.S. CAVALRY WOULD CHASE THESE RAIDING PARTIES NORTH, BUT ALL OF A SUDDEN, THEY'D STOP AT AN IMAGINARY LINE, AND THE NORTHWEST MOUNTED POLICE WOULD CHASE THEM SOUTH, STOP AT THAT SAME IMAGINARY LINE.

SO AS A RESULT, IT BECAME KNOWN AS THE MEDICINE LINE, WHICH IS ANOTHER WORD FOR MYSTICAL, MAGICAL.

>> THIS IS A MYSTICAL, MAGICAL PLACE, AND THANK YOU FOR INTRODUCING ME TO IT.

>> YOU'RE WELCOME.

IT WAS A PLEASURE TO DO SO.

DON'T FORGET US.

>> THE BLACKFOOT WERE A NOMADIC PEOPLE, WHO FOLLOWED THE HUGE HERDS OF BUFFALO THAT ONCE COVERED THE ALBERTAN PLAINS.

THE BLACKFOOT'S TRADITIONAL LAND STRETCHED FOR MORE THAN 50,000 SQUARE MILES.

AT BLACKFOOT CROSSING, THEY CEDED MUCH OF THEIR LAND TO THE BRITISH GOVERNMENT IN A TREATY SIGNED BY CHIEF CROWFOOT AND OTHERS.

TODAY AN INTERACTIVE CENTER AT THE CROSSING COMMEMORATES THE SIGNING AND THROUGH EXHIBITS AND THE PARTICIPATION OF TRIBAL ELDERS EDUCATES VISITORS ABOUT BLACKFOOT CULTURE.

>> BLACKFOOT CROSSING IS WHERE ALL THE BLACKFOOT CONFEDERACY TRIBES WOULD COME AND MEET.

>> UH-HUH.

>> THEY WEREN'T BROKEN INTO 4 TRIBES AT THAT TIME BUT INTO CLANS BACK THEN.

ONLY WHEN THE SETTLERS STARTED COMING IN, THAT'S WHEN WE STARTED BREAKING UP.

>> THE LANDS OF THE BLACKFOOT PEOPLE, OF THE CONFEDERACY, IS ABOUT 1,800 SQUARE MILES, BUT THAT'S STILL VERY SMALL COMPARED TO WHAT THE TRADITIONAL LANDS ARE.

>> THAT'S RIGHT.

THE TRADITIONAL LANDS WENT FROM THE NORTH SASKATCHEWAN DOWN TO THE YELLOWSTONE, FROM THE ROCKIES CLOSE TO THE MANITOBA BORDER.

>> ONE OF THE IMPORTANT THINGS THAT TOOK PLACE HERE IS TREATY 7.

WHAT WERE THE IMPORTANT PROVISIONS OF THAT TREATY?

>> SOME OF THE PROMISES THAT WERE MADE TO US WAS HOUSING, EDUCATION, HEALTH CARE IN EXCHANGE FOR ALL THE LAND.

>> THE BLACKFOOT PEOPLE WERE A NOMADIC PEOPLE, AND YOU HAD TO GIVE THAT UP.

>> THEY WANTED US TO BE WHITE.

>> YES.

>> I KNOW.

I GREW UP IN A RESIDENTIAL SCHOOL.

WE WERE PUNISHED FOR SPEAKING OUR LANGUAGE.

IF WE WERE CAUGHT SINGING OR DANCING OUR TRADITIONAL SONGS--THESE ARE THE THINGS THAT WE GREW UP WITH WHEN THEY TRIED TO TAKE AWAY ALL THE THINGS THAT WE BELIEVED IN.

>> IF PEOPLE COME AND VISIT HERE AT BLACKFOOT CROSSING, WHAT IS AT LEAST ONE THING THAT YOU WOULD LIKE THEM TO TAKE AWAY?

>> RESPECT, RESPECT OF WHO WE ARE.

YOU KNOW, WE RECEIVE COMMUNION JUST LIKE EVERYBODY ELSE.

WE USE THE BERRIES AS OUR COMMUNION.

WE USE THE ANIMALS LIKE THE BUFFALO AS PART OF OUR COMMUNION, BUT WHAT WE ALWAYS DO FIRST IS GIVE THANKS TO MOTHER EARTH--"THANK YOU, MOTHER EARTH, FOR PROVIDING THIS FOR US."

SO WE HAVE RESPECT FOR THE GRASS THAT WE WALK ON, THE TREES, BECAUSE EVERYTHING HAS A PURPOSE.

>> WELL, LET ME GIVE YOU MY RESPECT.

HOW WOULD I SAY THANK YOU?

>> WELL, THERE'S NO REALLY WORD FOR THANK YOU OR GOOD-BYE.

WE KNOW IN OUR HEARTS THAT--HOW WE THANK PEOPLE.

WHEN A PERSON IS PRAYING--LIKE, A WHITE MAN, WHEN THEY'S FINISHED PLAYING, THEY SAY, "AMEN."

>> AMEN.

YES.

>> AND US, THE SIKSIKA PEOPLE, WHEN A PERSON IS FINISHED PRAYING, WE JUST SAY, "THANK YOU," TAKE WHAT HE SAYS, PUT IT TO YOUR HEART.

>> NEAR THE TOWN OF LETHBRIDGE, FORT HAMILTON, KNOWN AS FORT WHOOP-UP, WAS ESTABLISHED IN 1869 BY AMERICANS ALFRED HAMILTON AND JOHN HEALY, WHO CROSSED THE MEDICINE LINE INTO CANADA IN ORDER TO TRADE FREELY WITH THE BLACKFOOT AND OTHER FIRST NATIONS PEOPLE.

FORT WHOOP-UP NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE INTRODUCES VISITORS TO ONE OF THE MOST NOTORIOUS OF THE SO-CALLED WHISKEY FORTS.

THE FIRING OF THE CANNON SIGNALS THAT IT IS A GOOD DAY TO TRADE AND BEGINS THE EXCHANGE OF SKINS FOR GOODS IN THE INDIAN ROOM.

>> ANYBODY THAT HAD NO RELATIONSHIP WITH THE TRADERS HAD TO GO INTO THAT ROOM.

THEY WEREN'T ALLOWED INTO THE TRADE ROOM HERE UNLESS YOU WERE KNOWN TO HAMILTON OR HEALY.

>> HOW MANY PEOPLE WOULD BE HERE IN THIS ROOM?

>> IN THE BUNK HOUSE NEXT DOOR, THEY WOULD HAVE ABOUT 20 MEN STAYING IN THAT ONE.

YOU COULD HAVE UP TO 40 MEN AT A TIME WORKING HERE.

>> WHAT KIND OF THINGS WOULD THEY BE TRADING?

WHAT WERE FAVORITE THINGS TO GET?

>> FAVORITE WOULD BE FASHION.

BRIGHT CLOTHS, REDS WERE REALLY POPULAR WITH THE BLACKFOOT.

SIMPLE THINGS LIKE THREAD MADE LIFE EASY.

NEEDLES WERE REALLY GOOD THINGS.

>> MM-HMM.

FORT WHOOP-UP IS CONNECTED TO THE WHISKEY TRADERS.

USING THE WHISKEY WAS AN OPPORTUNITY FOR THEM TO TAKE ADVANTAGE OF THE BLACKFOOT.

GETTING THEM LIQUORED UP WAS A GOOD WAY OF TRADING.

>> THAT'S WHAT WE REFER TO AS LUBRICATING THE TRADE, AND THAT WAS SOMETHING THAT WAS PERFECTED BY THE HUDSON'S BAY COMPANY, AND IN THE OLD, OLD DAYS, IN THE EARLY 1800s, LATE 1700s, IT WOULD HAVE BEEN APPROPRIATE TO GIVE THE CHIEFS A CUP OF SHERRY AND A FEAST AND STUFF BEFORE THE TRADE STARTED, AND OF COURSE, WELL, NOW THE NORTHWEST COMPANY, THEY'RE GIVING THE GUY TWO CUPS OF SHERRY, AND WE'RE ONLY GIVING THEM ONE, SO NOW WE GOT TO START GIVING THEM TWO CUPS.

SO YOU START TO SEE ALCOHOL MOVE FROM A LUBRICANT IN THE TRADE TO AN ACTUAL COMMODITY.

>> MMM.

>> AND IT IS TRUE.

THE WINTER OF 1873, THERE WERE 73 BLACKFOOT THAT DIED FROM OVEREXCESSES, EXPOSURE, ALCOHOLISM, FIGHTING, JUST ALL OF THE THINGS THAT GO WITH A BAD PARTY, BUT TRADING LIQUOR WASN'T AGAINST THE LAW.

>> IT WASN'T AGAINST THE LAW AT THAT TIME.

>> AND OF COURSE AFTER THE ARRIVAL OF THE NORTHWEST MOUNTED POLICE IN 1874, THERE WAS NO MORE LIQUOR, BUT STILL ALL THE TRADE GOODS YOU SEE HERE STILL CONTINUED ON, AND YOUR AVERAGE INVENTORY WOULD HAVE SAT AT AROUND A MILLION DOLLARS IN TODAY'S DOLLARS.

>> THAT'S AMAZING.

>> IT'S A GREAT ADVENTURE.

THEY'RE MAKING LOTS OF MONEY, THEY'RE GATHERING IN MONEY, THEY'RE HAVING A GOOD TIME, THEY'RE WHOOPING HER UP.

>> WHILE THE WHISKEY TRADERS WERE WHOOPING IT UP AND REAPING RICH REWARDS FROM THE TRADING, AS FAR AS THE BLACKFOOT WERE CONCERNED THE PRACTICE WAS A MIXED BLESSING.

>> YES, THERE WAS THE NEGATIVE COMPONENT OF THE WHISKEY AND HOW IT BROUGHT AGONY AND DESPAIR TO MY PEOPLE, BUT THERE WAS ALSO THE OPPORTUNITY TO GET NEW ITEMS BECAUSE THE FUR TRADERS BROUGHT A LOT OF METAL, WHICH WAS VERY IMPORTANT TO MY PEOPLE, AND IT MADE THINGS A LOT EASIER.

>> SO THIS FORT IS AS MUCH A PART OF THE BLACKFOOT PEOPLE AS IT IS OF COURSE THE WHITE TRADERS THAT WERE HERE, AS WELL.

>> YEAH.

>> WE'LL, WE'VE BEEN VERY EXCITED TO LEARN ABOUT YOUR PEOPLE, AND I WOULD NORMALLY IN THIS MOMENT SAY THANK YOU, BUT I UNDERSTAND THE BLACKFOOT PEOPLE DON'T REALLY SAY THANK YOU.

THEY BASICALLY JUST TAKE YOUR WORDS AND ACCEPT THEM INTO YOUR HEART.

IS THAT RIGHT?

>> YES.

YEAH.

THAT'S ACCEPTING AND... >> IN THE TIME BEFORE THE HORSE AND THE WHISKEY FORTS, THE PEOPLE THE PLAINS SURVIVED USING THEIR NATIVE INTELLIGENCE, CREATIVITY, AND INGENUITY.

THE NEXT MORNING, I HEAD TOWARDS THE FOOTHILLS OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS TO PERHAPS THE MOST SIGNIFICANT FIRST NATIONS SITE IN ALBERTA.

AT HEAD-SMASHED-IN BUFFALO JUMP, NATIVES HUNTED BUFFALO BY CLEVERLY CAPITALIZING ON THE ANIMALS' HABITS AND WEAKNESSES.

WHILE THE BUFFALO POSSESSED A GOOD SENSE OF SMELL, THEY WERE SHORT-SIGHTED.

CLOAKED IN BUFFALO SKINS AND BLEATING LIKE A CALF, YOUNG BUFFALO RUNNERS LURE THE HERD FROM THEIR GRAZING GROUNDS TOWARDS DRIVING LANES.

DEFINED BY CAIRNS CREATED FROM TREE BRANCHES AND STONES, THE DRIVING LANES, EXTENDING FOR MILES, LEAD TO THE EDGE OF THE 120-FOOT DROP.

ON A SIGNAL, TRIBAL MEMBERS RACE UP FROM BEHIND THE HERD, WAVING BUFFALO HIDES, AND THE STAMPEDE BEGINS.

OTHER HUNTERS HIDDEN BEHIND THE CAIRNS FUNNEL THE HERD TOWARDS THE INEVITABLE.

BY THE TIME THE LEAD BUFFALO SENSES THE DANGER, IT IS TOO LATE.

THE THUNDERING PACK CARRIES IT AND THEMSELVES OVER THE PRECIPICE.

STAN KNOWLTON, THE CENTER'S HEAD INTERPRETER, ACCOMPANIES ME TO THE CLIFF FACE.

IS THIS IT, STAN?

>> THAT BIG HOLE THAT YOU SEE UP THERE, THIS IS THE ACTUAL PLACE WHERE THE BUFFALO CAME OVER.

>> SO WE HAVE ALL THESE BUFFALO JUST STAMPEDING STRAIGHT OFF THE CLIFF.

HOW MANY WOULD THEY HAVE BEEN?

>> BE ABOUT 300 IN A HUNT.

>> 300.

>> NOT ALL OF THEM WOULD DIE.

SOME WOULD SURVIVE.

>> BUT THE FIRST NATIONS PEOPLE MADE SURE THAT THEY KILLED ALL OF THEM, AND WHY WAS THAT?

>> WELL, THEY BELIEVED THAT IF ANY ANIMAL SURVIVED AND MADE THEIR WAY BACK OUT ONTO THE PLAINS IT WOULD COME IN CONTACT WITH OTHER BUFFALO, AND THEY'D LET THEM KNOW WHAT HAPPENED HERE.

>> "DON'T FALL FOR THAT TRAP," THEY WOULD TELL THE OTHER ANIMALS.

BESIDES BEING A CHRONICLE OF THE ANCIENT WAYS AND A REPOSITORY OF ITS RELICS, THE INTERPRETIVE CENTRE IS ALSO A VENUE FOR TEACHING ABOUT AND REJOICING IN THE FIRST NATIONS TRADITIONS.

THROUGHOUT THE SUMMER MONTHS, VISITORS CAN HEAR THE STORIES OF ALBERTA'S ABORIGINAL PEOPLE BEING TOLD THROUGH THEIR MUSIC, SONG, AND DANCE.

>> WE HAVE STORIES BEHIND ALL OF OUR DANCES.

THERE'S A YOUNG WOMAN.

SHE WAS OUT ALONG THE RIVER, AND SHE LOOKED BACK IN THE CAMP, THERE'S A LOT OF SADNESS AND GRIEF AMONGST THE PEOPLE, SO SHE KNEW THAT THE PEOPLE WEREN'T IN ANY SHAPE TO GO ON A BIG HUNT, SO SHE STARTED TO PRAY TO THE CREATOR AND TELL HIM TO COME AND BLESS THE PEOPLE WITH FOOD.

SO JUST LIKE THUNDERING, YOU COULD HEAR THIS BIG BULL JUST CHASING AND SCARING A PORTION OF THE HERD OVER THE BUFFALO RIDGE, EH?

THEY'RE FALLING DOWN, AND THE BUFFALO CAME BACK TO WHERE SHE WAS SITTING AT AND SAID, "FOR A LONG TIME, YOU'VE HARVESTED MY PEOPLE, THE BUFFALO, AND YOU NEVER GAVE THANKS, EH?"

SO HE SAYS, "I WANT YOU TO DO THIS BEFORE AND AFTER THE HUNT, EH?"

SO THE BUFFALO CHIEF STARTED TO CHANT.

[CHANTING] AND THOSE BUFFALO SOLDIERS WERE JUMPING ON THEIR BACK FEET, AND AS THEY WERE SWAYING TO THE SONG, THEY STARTED TO TAKE HUMAN FORM, AND THEY'RE DANCING, AND THEY'RE PORTRAYING THE HUNT.

[DRUMMING AND CHANTING] >> NOW YOUR DANCE IS A HEALING DANCE.

>> THE STORY BEHIND THAT IS A LONG TIME AGO, A YOUNG GIRL, HER GRANDMOTHER WAS VERY ILL, AND SHE HAD A DREAM, AND IN THIS DREAM, SHE WAS TOLD TO MAKE THIS DRESS AND TO DANCE A CERTAIN WAY, AND SO ONE DAY, SHE WENT FORTH, AND SHE DANCED, AND BY THE END OF THE SONG, HER GRANDMOTHER WAS DANCING ALONGSIDE OF HER.

>> THAT'S A GREAT STORY.

[CHANTING] AS A FAMILY, WHAT DOES IT FEEL TO KNOW THAT WHAT YOU ARE CONTINUING TO DO REALLY IS AN IMPORTANT THING TO YOUR CULTURE?

>> IT MAKES ME FEEL REALLY GOOD AS A PARENT AND, LIKE, TO SEE MY DAD.

>> TOBIAS, WHEN DID YOU BRING ELIJAH INTO IT?

>> HE WAS YOUNG.

HE WAS, LIKE, HOW OLD?

ABOUT 2, 3, YEARS OLD.

>> OH, MY GOSH!

>> IT'S OUR EXISTENCE.

IT'S LIKE BREATHING.

IT'S JUST WHO WE ARE.

WE DON'T REALLY THINK ABOUT IT.

WE JUST GO DO IT, AND WE FEEL GOOD WHEN WE DO IT.

>> BY HONORING THEIR PAST, THE BLACKFOOT ARE RECAPTURING, PRESERVING, AND CELEBRATING THEIR HERITAGE.

STRANGELY ENOUGH, THE RANCHERS WHO FIRST CAME TO SOUTHERN ALBERTA AFTER THE BLACKFOOT'S BUFFALO WAY OF LIFE HAD DISAPPEARED ARE STRIVING TO SAVE THEIR COWBOY CULTURE.

FOR MORE THAN A CENTURY, RANCHING HAS PROSPERED HERE, BUT TIMES ARE CHANGING.

IN THE PORCUPINE HILLS LESS THAN 30 MILES FROM HEAD-SMASHED-IN BUFFALO JUMP, THE LUCASIA RANCH IS OPEN FOR GUESTS WHO WANT AN AUTHENTIC EXPERIENCE ON A WORKING RANCH.

YOU HAVE YOUR CHICKENS FOR EGGS OR FOR FOOD?

>> MOSTLY FOR EGGS.

THE GRAY CHICKENS ARE CALLED ARAUCANAS.

>> UH-HUH.

>> THEY LAY A GREEN EGG.

>> A GREEN EGG?

>> GREEN EGGS, AND THEY'RE SUPPOSED TO BE LOWER IN CHOLESTEROL.

>> ISN'T THAT DR. SEUSS, "GREEN EGGS AND HAM"?

>> YEAH.

HA HA HA!

MOSTLY A KIDS' THING.

I WAS NEVER REALLY A BIRD LOVER, BUT YOU KIND OF GET A LITTLE BIT OF ATTACHED TO THEM.

>> TO GET A TRUE SENSE OF LIFE ON A CATTLE RANCH, YOU MUST STEP INTO THE STIRRUPS AND UP ONTO THE SADDLE.

OK. SHALL WE GO?

>> WE'RE READY IF YOU ARE.

>> THE DOGS ARE GONNA JOIN US.

>> OH, YEAH.

>> WAYNE, HOW LARGE IS THE RANCH?

>> WE'VE GOT 4,000 ACRES HERE NOW.

>> WOW.

AND WHEN DID IT BEGIN?

>> UH, COLONEL LYNDON CAME HERE AND STARTED THE RANCH IN 1881.

THIS LAND IS REALLY ONLY GOOD FOR GRAZING CATTLE OR SHEEP OR SOMETHING ON.

YOU CAN'T FARM IT.

THAT WAS WHY WE STARTED INTO THE RANCH VACATION BUSINESS.

>> YEAH.

>> TO HELP THE INCOME AND TO SHOW OTHER PEOPLE OUR WAY OF LIFE THAT WE ENJOY LIVING.

>> NOW THIS IS BEAUTIFUL UP HERE.

TALK ABOUT PANORAMIC.

>> HEH HEH HEH.

>> THIS AIN'T TOO SHABBY.

>> IT'S KIND OF FUNNY BECAUSE YOU LIVE HERE AND YOU DON'T THINK ABOUT IT, BUT YOU BRING GUESTS IN, AND THEY KIND OF REMIND YOU EVERY WEEK.

>> WHEN DID RANCHING START IN THIS AREA?

>> IN THE YEAR ABOUT 1880.

>> UH-HUH.

>> THE U.S. WAS GETTING FULL OF CATTLE, AND THE GRASS WAS GETTING SHORT, SO PEOPLE STARTED TO MOVE CATTLE UP INTO ALBERTA.

THERE WAS FRESH GRASS AND LOTS OF IT.

WE CAME HERE 36 YEARS AGO.

MY DAD AND I FARMED OUT ON THE FLATS, AND I DIDN'T LIKE FARMING, AND HE LIKED LIVESTOCK BETTER, AND I SAID, "WELL, WHY DON'T WE SELL THE FARM AND GET OURSELVES A PROPER RANCH?"

>> WELL, YOU'VE CERTAINLY MADE A LIFE OF IT HERE.

HOW MANY CATTLE DO YOU HAVE?

>> WE RUN ABOUT 250 COWS, AND THEN WE RUN AROUND 100 HEAD OF HORSES HERE.

>> THE WHOLE IDEA OF RANCHING SEEMS TO BE KIND OF DYING DOWN.

MAYBE IT'S GOING TO DISAPPEAR SOMEDAY, PARTICULARLY RANCHING WITH HORSES.

IS PART OF THE REASON YOU DO THAT JUST TO KEEP THE HISTORY AND THE HERITAGE FOR YOUR FAMILY GOING?

>> WELL, I GUESS I WAS A KID THAT ALWAYS WANTED TO BE A RANCHER AND SHOULD HAVE BEEN BORN 100 YEARS EARLIER, BUT I WASN'T, SO I JUST HAVE LIVED ON A HORSE, AND I'VE HAD MY KIDS RIDE WITH ME, AND NOW THEY ALL LOVE HORSES, SO RANCHING IS OUR WAY OF LIFE.

>> ONE OF THE PLEASURES OF TRAVELING IS EXPERIENCING OTHER PEOPLE'S LIFESTYLES.

HERE ON LUCASIA RANCH, IT'S BEEN A JOY TO BE WITH PEOPLE WHO ARE WORKING SO HARD TO PRESERVE THEIR WAY OF LIFE.

BEING UP ON THE RIDGE HERE.

LOOKING DOWN ON THE RANCH AND ON THE PORCUPINE HILLS, IT'S PLAIN TO SEE WHY THEY'RE TRYING SO HARD TO DO THAT.

[WIND CHIMES RINGING] >> DEAR HEAVENLY FATHER, WE THANK YOU FOR THE FOOD YOU'VE GIVEN US THIS DAY, AND BLESS IT TO OUR BODIES.

IN JESUS' NAME WE PRAY.

AMEN.

>> AMEN.

>> ALL RIGHT.

>> OK.

DIG IN.

>> RUB-A-DUB-DUB.

>> DIG IN.

>> LIFE IS A SERIES OF MOMENTS, AND FOR ME, SOME OF THE BEST HAVE BEEN THOSE WHICH INVOLVE GOOD FOOD, FAMILY, AND NEW FRIENDS AROUND A DINNER TABLE.

WHAT WAS IT LIKE GROWING UP ON THE RANCH, THOUGH?

>> OH, JUST AWESOME.

>> REALLY?

>> YEAH.

YEAH.

MOM AND DAD DIDN'T REALLY ASK YOU WHERE YOU WERE, SAY, "DON'T GO TOO FAR," BECAUSE YOU COULDN'T GO ANYWHERE REALLY.

NO, IT WAS GREAT.

>> "GO AS FAR AS YOU WANT."

[LAUGHTER] IN WATERTON LAKES NATIONAL PARK, MY SOUTHERN ALBERTA ADVENTURE COMES FULL CIRCLE.

IT'S WHERE THE PLAINS MEET THE MOUNTAINS, AND IT'S EASY TO GET A ROCKY MOUNTAIN HIGH.

PART OF THE WATERTON GLACIER INTERNATIONAL PACE PARK, WATER LAKES IS HOME TO A RICH VARIETY OF FLORA AND FAUNA AND IN THE VILLAGE OF WATERTON LESS THAN 100 YEAR-ROUND RESIDENTS.

THE PRINCE OF WALES HOTEL, A NATIONAL HERITAGE SITE, LORDS OVER ALL AND GIVES ITS GUESTS STUNNING VIEWS LOOKING SOUTH TOWARDS THE U.S. BORDER JUST 3 MILES AWAY.

WITHIN THE PARK'S 195 SQUARE MILES, THERE ARE 191 MILES OF TRAILS, AND MY GUIDE CARREY AND I HEAD DOWN ONE OF THEM.

>> EACH YEAR, WE HAVE THIMBLEBERRY.

KIND OF LIKE A RASPBERRY, VERY TASTY.

>> SO AT THIS TIME OF YEAR, WE MIGHT BE IN COMPETITION WITH THE BEARS.

IT'S A MATTER OF WHO GETS IT FIRST, THE BEAR OR THE HUMANS, HUH?

>> YEAH, YOU BET.

>> THAT'S TASTY.

A LITTLE TART, BUT IT'S TASTY.

>> THIS IS PEARLY EVERLASTING.

THESE FLOWERS WILL STAY ON WELL INTO FALL TILL THE FIRST FROST.

THE LEAVES WERE USED BY THE BLACKFOOT AS TOBACCO, BUT IT WAS ALSO SMOKED TO RELIEVE THROAT AND LUNG AILMENTS.

>> OK. >> THIS HERE RIGHT BESIDE IT ACTUALLY IS BEAR GRASS.

THIS WAS USED TO WEAVE SMALL BASKETS FOR COLLECTING SOME OF THE BERRIES THAT WE TALKED ABOUT EARLIER.

>> WELL, WHAT OTHER PLANTS IN THE FOREST MIGHT THE FIRST NATIONS PEOPLE USE?

>> JUNIPER LEAVES WERE BURNED AS SORT OF AN INCENSE TO KEEP AWAY BAD OR EVIL SPIRITS.

>> THAT WAS THE BLACKFOOT PEOPLE?

>> THAT WAS THE BLACKFOOT.

THAT'S RIGHT.

ANOTHER SHRUB THAT WAS COMMONLY USED WAS BUFFALOBERRY, AND THEY WOULD HAVE MASHED THOSE UP AND DRANK IT AS SORT OF A TONIC.

IT CERTAINLY IS AN ACQUIRED TASTE.

>> HEH HEH.

>> JOSEPH, SO THIS IS KNOWN AS BERTHA POINT, NAMED AFTER ONE OF THE EARLY COLORFUL CHARACTERS IN THE AREA.

>> I'M SURE THERE WERE A NUMBER.

>> BERTHA EKLUND.

THE BRITISH REALLY PUT THEIR STAMP ON THE FEATURES IN THE AREA.

>> NOW ALTHOUGH BERTHA'S GOT MOST OF THE NAMES HERE, THE FIRST NATIONS PEOPLE WERE HERE BEFORE HER.

IS THERE ANYTHING THEY WOULD HAVE USED FROM THE LAND?

ANYTHING ELSE WE CAN PICK OUT HERE?

>> THERE ARE SOME LODGEPOLE PINES JUST AROUND US HERE IN A FEW PLACES.

LODGEPOLE PINES WERE IMPORTANT FOR SHELTER.

>> ANOTHER WORD FOR LODGE IS TEPEE.

>> CORRECT.

SO LET'S HEAD OFF TO THE FALLS.

>> BERTHA'S FALLS?

>> BERTHA'S FALLS.

YOU BET.

>> OHH!

THIS IS BEAUTIFUL.

>> SURE IS.

>> YOU KNOW, ONE OF THE THINGS I'VE LOVED ABOUT THIS HIKE IS THAT WE'RE THE ONLY ONES ON IT.

>> THAT'S PRETTY TYPICAL OF WATERTON.

IT'S A VERY SMALL, QUIET PLACE.

>> HOW MANY PEOPLE ACTUALLY VISIT THE NATIONAL PARK EACH YEAR?

>> IT'S AROUND 400,000 PEOPLE, SO TO PUT THAT INTO PERSPECTIVE, BANFF NATIONAL PARK HAS AROUND 4 MILLION VISITORS A YEAR.

>> SO THIS IS A LITTLE-KNOWN AND UNDERUSED RESOURCE HERE IN ALBERTA.

>> BIT OF A HIDDEN GEM.

>> WELL, THANK YOU FOR INTRODUCING US TO IT.

>> YEAH.

YOU'RE WELCOME.

IT'S BEEN A REAL PLEASURE.

>> IT HAS BEEN.

THANK YOU FOR JOINING ME ON MY ALBERTA, CANADA, ADVENTURE.

IN SOUTHERN ALBERTA, I WITNESSED THE MEASURES PEOPLE TAKE TO PROTECT AND PRESERVE THEIR WAY OF LIFE, AND WHILE IT MAY SEEM AS IF THEIR STRIVING PROFITS ONLY A FEW, IN FACT, THEIR EFFORTS BENEFIT US ALL, FOR IN THE COURSE OF HONORING AND MAINTAINING THEIR CULTURE, THEY GIFT US WITH THEIR KNOWLEDGE, THEIR TALENTS, AND THEIR PASSIONS, AND SO THEIR CULTURE ENRICHES US.

HISTORY HAS MUCH TO OFFER.

THERE ARE LESSONS TO LEARN, WRONGS TO RIGHT, FAILURES TO PONDER, AND SUCCESSES TO CELEBRATE, AND HISTORY TEACHES THAT RATHER THAN JUDGE OTHERS BASED ON OUR EXPERIENCES IT IS FAR BETTER TO MARVEL AT THEIR INGENUITY AND ACHIEVEMENTS.

[CHEERING] TILL NEXT TIME, THIS IS JOSEPH ROSENDO REMINDING YOU OF THE WORDS OF MARK TWAIN--"TRAVEL IS FATAL TO PREJUDICE, BIGOTRY, AND NARROW-MINDEDNESS."

HAPPY TRAVELING.

>> "JOSEPH ROSENDO'S TRAVELSCOPE" IS MADE POSSIBLE BY: VOLVO'S OVERSEAS DELIVERY PROGRAM, WHERE BUYERS CAN PICK UP A NEW VOLVO IN SWEDEN, USE IT IN EUROPE, AND THEN HAVE IT JOIN THEM AT HOME; NO-JET-LAG JET LAG PREVENTION; AUBERGE RESORTS' DISTINCTIVE COLLECTION OF LUXURY RESORTS, RESIDENCES, AND SPAS.

FOR A DVD OF TODAY'S SHOW OR ANY OF JOSEPH'S "TRAVELSCOPE" ADVENTURES, CALL 888-876-3399 OR ORDER ONLINE AT TRAVELSCOPE.NET.

YOU CAN ALSO E-MAIL US AT TV@TRAVELSCOPE.NET OR WRITE US AT THE ADDRESS ON YOUR SCREEN.

>> NOW THAT WE'VE ROAMED THE RANGE TOGETHER IN SOUTHERN ALBERTA, LEARN MORE AT TRAVELSCOPE.NET, WHERE YOU CAN FOLLOW MY WORLDWIDE ADVENTURES THROUGH MY E-MAGAZINE, BLOG, PODCAST, AND ON FACEBOOK!

STAY IN TOUCH.

888-876-3399 OR TV@TRAVELSCOPE.NET.

[CAPTIONING MADE POSSIBLE BY FRIENDS OF NCI] [CAPTIONED BY THE NATIONAL CAPTIONING INSTITUTE --www.ncicap.org--] AHH.

THAT'S VERY REFRESHING.

>> IT DOES HIT THE SPOT, SIR, YES, INDEED.

MM-HMM.

>> THEY DON'T LET YOU DRINK ALCOHOL, HUH?

>> ABSOLUTELY NOT, SIR.

>> GOSH.

NO.

THEY GOT TO KEEP YOU STRAIGHT.