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Joseph, voice-over: Today on "Travelscope," my wife Julie and I return to San Antonio, Texas, where we first met, to celebrate 10 days of Fiesta.

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Joseph: San Antonio is our favorite Texas town.

It's not just the Alamo we remember, but the people and how they love to party.

And they have plenty to celebrate, and the largest celebration of them all is simply called Fiesta-- 11 days of parades, music, dance, foods, and cultures.

That's why we all say... All: ¡Viva Fiesta!

Joseph: Ha ha ha!

Joseph, voice-over: Fiesta is not one, but many celebrations that take place throughout San Antonio.

The party is already in full swing at historic Market Square.

Before Texas was a part of the United States, San Antonians were shopping in Market Square.

Today Market Square encompasses the produce and farmers market as well as El Mercado, the largest Mexican market outside of Mexico.

During Fiesta, it's the site of Fiesta de los Reyes, where El Rey Feo, the Ugly King, reigns supreme.

It's always crazy here.

Last time I was here, I was eating jalapeño peppers in a contest, remember?

Julie: I remember, yeah.

We used to come down a lot, mainly Christmas night.

Oh, yeah?

We would come down and eat at Mi Tierra.

[Singing mariachi music in Spanish] Joseph, voice-over: Fiesta is certainly a regal event, and there are so many royalties.

One of the most exciting is El Rey Feo.

The Ugly King-- king of the people.

You don't look so bad for an ugly king.

How does the organization serve the people of San Antonio?

We serve the people of San Antonio by having a focus on getting the people of San Antonio to college and getting them to graduate from college, and we're helping them do it with scholarships.

Our goal is not to have any child in San Antonio not able to go to college.

We want to help you go to college, and once you're in college, you graduate from college.

Crowd: ¡Viva!

All: ¡Viva!

Michael Cortez with Mi Tierra, how long has the restaurant been here?

Michael: Since 1941.

Joseph: So even before there was a Rey Feo.

There was a Mi Tierra, but there was also festivals in this market.

This is the people's market, where locals gather and actually, you know, visitors want to come and spend time.

Now this is the home of Rey Feo.

This whole Fiesta is a community celebration.

Absolutely.

Any advice for people who want to have the kind of community that you guys have here in San Antonio?

Jon: What San Antonio looks like today is what the rest of the United States is gonna look like in the next 40 years.

That's what we're celebrating with Fiesta is all these different types of cultures, and I think that's the diversity that we've learned here in San Antonio is embrace everybody's background, but do it together.

Right.

All: ¡Viva!

Michael: Yeah.

You got to get involved.

You know, give of your time, give of your money.

So then the final "viva" we want to do is the one everybody does here at Fiesta-- 1, 2, 3.

All: ¡Viva Fiesta!

Joseph, voice-over: Julie and I meet San Antonio's other king at the city's most famous attraction--the Alamo.

Joseph: When was the first time you saw that, sweetie?

Julie: 1975, when I moved to San Antonio.

And I bet it looked a lot like it does right now.

Pretty much.

Don't you kind of wonder why they put it in the middle of town?

Ha ha ha!

Fiesta celebrates all things San Antonio-- its legendary history, its rescued and revived river, its multicultural heritage, and its fun-loving spirit.

Yet there is a serious side to Fiesta that's best illustrated in the investiture of King Antonio, who honors the heroes of the Alamo, that spiritual heart of Texas, during his reign over the festivities of Fiesta.

I'm at the Alamo, and I'm with Mark Johnson with the Texas Cavaliers.

They also put on the River Parade.

Now, what does it feel like to be on the verge of being king?

It feels great.

I mean, I've been in the organization 18 years.

I'm the ambassador.

There is a giving-back element to it.

It's just not about having a big party.

How much money have you raised for-- for the schools here in San Antonio?

That's a great question.

Since 1989, we've given away $3 million to local children's charities, so as King Antonio the 93rd, as the ambassador, it's great to see the good works that we do through our River Parade and foundation.

[Playing military music] [Musical flourish playing] There he is.

Atten-hut!

Ha ha ha!

Thank you.

Joseph: The official center of San Antonio, the San Fernando Cathedral, has served the city for more than 280 years.

The final resting place for some of the Alamo heroes, this sacred setting is where the Fiesta participants and royalty come for the annual Mariachi Mass and blessing.

[Mariachi music playing] Man: ♪ Hallelujah, hallelujah ♪ ♪ Hallelujah ♪ Joseph, voice-over: The first El Rey Feo was crowned in 1947, while the Texas Cavaliers inducted their first King Antonio in 1926.

The emergence of two Fiesta kings built a bridge between the city's Anglo and Hispanic cultures.

Man: ...that when you go out and touch people's lives and bring them closer to Christ.

In his holy name, we pray.

Amen.

Joseph, voice-over: Fiesta wouldn't be the same without the River Walk.

In 1924, a few preservation-minded women saved the river from being paved over.

Today the San Antonio Conservation Society continues their work.

Woman: It started with 11 women who organized to preserve not just the river but the buildings and the natural beauty, the waterways, and the culture.

In some ways, we're very different than other cities who think of, you know, as a melting pot.

We think of ourselves more as a salad because we have different ingredients, but we all have our individual characters.

But during Fiesta, all of that goes away and we become one big group of people celebrating who we are.

You're very much involved with Fiesta, of course.

NIOSA is one of the big events.

It's the preservation celebration.

Sue Ann: Even the location, La Villita, where we celebrate NIOSA, has been restored, in part by the Conservation Society.

Joseph: I first came to San Antonio back in 1968, and there was just that little core area downtown that was being developed.

Sue Ann: It has expanded tremendously.

Hotels, of course, want to be on the river.

They're extending the walkways both north and south of town.

You can hike and bike.

You can get all the way down to the San Antonio missions, which are about 5 miles south.

There's so much here in San Antonio.

I never tire of coming here.

I met my wife Julie here, so there's a gift I got.

There's always something new to discover, and it's wonderful that this river is what carries you to most of that.

Well, thank you, and I have a little something for you.

Oh, well, thank you.

It's our NIOSA pin for 2015.

I have something for you, too.

Ha ha ha!

Woman: Oh!

Both: ¡Viva Fiesta!

Mmm.

There's more than 50 restaurants and bars in the 2.5-mile downtown section of the San Antonio River Walk, and sooner or later, every visitor discovers their favorite.

Boudro's is just one of Julie and mine, and this is a healthy drink.

Healthy because...

Uh, the prickly pear fruit.

It's like a little-- it's like drinking a fruit juice.

So tequila-infused prickly pear fruit is your idea of healthy?

It's--it's about as healthy as it gets in San Antonio.

Ha ha ha!

Salud, sweetie.

Salud.

Joseph: Wow.

Look at all these people.

It may not be the largest Fiesta parade, but it's certainly the most unique.

It's where floats really do float.

Joseph, voice-over: More than 40 glide down the San Antonio River, including one with His Majesty King Antonio, past more than 250,000 people who have staked out their claim to a bit of the famous River Walk.

¡Viva Fiesta!

Crowd: ¡Viva Fiesta!

[Music playing] Crowd: ¡Viva Fiesta!

Joseph, voice-over: While the beautiful San Antonio River and River Walk play a leading role in Fiesta, the oldest event and largest parade rolls through city streets-- the Battle of the Flowers.

Flowers, flowers, everywhere, Lynn.

Well, it is the Battle of Flowers Parade... That's right.

put on by women-- only women.

It started in 1891 to commemorate the fallen heroes of the Alamo and San Jacinto.

San Jacinto was the battle that kind of sealed the deal.

It was the one that sealed the deal.

At the beginning, it really was a battle of the flowers, too.

It truly was.

It was horse and buggies, and they would throw the flowers at one another.

This was the beginning of Fiesta.

This is the beginning.

Now there are so many events in Fiesta... Lynn: That's right.

you couldn't possibly go to them all.

Over 100.

I would like for you to have this Battle of Flowers medal.

The only other medal I have is from the French government.

Well, this one's more important.

OK. Roaming around town during Fiesta, you'll see a lot of people with medals like this.

I think this is unique to San Antonio.

Man: Well, it really is, Julie.

Medals start off as basically a coin, like you have here from King Antonio.

Mm-hmm.

So that was just a simple coin originally, but now there's all types of medals.

As you see, everybody has them.

These are all Cornyation, right?

Yes.

Mine are about Cornyation, which is sort of the satire of the whole situation.

Coronation.

The coronation, yes, and everyone loves to get them.

I know someone who almost got arrested trying to get a medal one time, so it's more than addicting.

Joseph, voice-over: From individuals to institutions, everyone's in the Fiesta spirit.

This year the Witte Museum's annual Fiesta exhibition features coronation and the bejeweled gowns of the royal court.

CeCe and my daughter are best buds for years and years.

The only coronation I ever went to was yours.

You were Duchess of... Kokopelli, the Fertility God.

Lou Celia, you told me your husband Don was actually a page in the psychedelic years.

His cousin was the first queen?

Yes.

Eda Kampmann.

I think it was 1909.

And you were able to carry that tradition on.

I debated doing it, but I'm so glad I did.

It was so much fun to kind of get to know San Antonio in a different way.

Clara, these dresses are amazing.

Thank you.

The amount of jewels on this is impressive.

Thousands.

We are given the basic design.

We work within that framework.

So someone else might keep the colors the same, but they might bead this differently.

Is it one big piece?

No.

It's in sections.

These pedals were individually made, stitched together, and then the whole flower was stitched to the base.

These are done in panels, so it's much like a quilt in the placement.

These are Swarovski Austrian crystal margaritas.

These are Aurora two-hole sew-on stones.

So it's trying to look good up close but have it look good from the stage so that you get a twinkle, sparkle, and flash.

Natalie, you've wanted to be a duchess your entire life, right?

Yes.

I've grown up going to the coronation every year until I went to college.

When I was in second grade, I was a little rampage, and I just touched the dresses when I wasn't supposed to, and then I was a stage page when I was in sixth grade.

Did you realize how heavy the dresses were when you were a little girl?

No.

The dress itself is, like, 25 pounds, and then the train is over 50.

And a big part of the coronation is the bow.

It's a feat, but you practice a lot.

Let's see it.

What does it look like?

Oh, you sit down.

And then you look to the stage and wave... Ha ha ha!

and then come up, and my duke will be here, and he'll help me up.

Oh, so he's helping you up.

Yes.

Are those cowboy boots you have on?

Yes.

These are the boots that I'll be wearing in the parade.

Well, that's a big thing I remember from the parades is everybody saying, "Show us your shoes!"

Yes.

I'll definitely see you, and I'll show you my shoes.

Joseph, voice-over: The Battle of the Flowers Parade is the only chance for the public to see the queen, her court, and their extravagant dresses.

People get up pretty early in the morning to save their spot.

You've been here before.

Uh, for the last 20 years.

Yes, sir.

The last 20 years, here at this spot?

At this particular spot, yes.

What time do you have to come to get this spot?

About two days ahead of time or one day ahead of time, at least.

Were you here last night in that thunderstorm?

Under my little bitty umbrella.

Ha ha ha!

Yes, sir.

Well, you guys have a wonderful time, and... All: ¡Viva Fiesta!

Joseph: This is a huge parade.

Julie: Huge.

How long is this gonna take?

About 2 1/2 hours, getting everybody through here?

These ladies know.

How long does the parade last?

Oh, about 2 1/2 hours.

Joseph: We're gonna see a lot of parade today.

So on the first Battle of the Flowers, the ladies would approach each other on horse and carriage and actually throw flowers at each other.

These days there are more than 40 floats, there's all sorts of bands, and other entertainment.

And in keeping with the historic vow from the queen and her court to spread mirth and merriment throughout the city of San Antonio, and that's what the Battle of the Flowers Parade is doing today.

[Crowd cheering] It's our duchess, Natalie Tips!

[Band playing] [Mariachi music playing] Joseph, voice-over: Put on by the Paseo del Rio Association, the Mariachi Festival on the River gives talented junior and high-school students a musical immersion into the culture of San Antonio's Hispanic population, which makes up close to 60% of the city.

Whoever invented this had a great idea.

The kids love coming out here.

We love performing for the people, for the tourists, for our own parents, you know, and we can't wait for this.

We are teaching them mariachi, but first of all, they should know how to read music.

We all play the correct technique for the different instrumentation.

We also sing correctly, so we do a lot of theory, also.

[Woman singing mariachi music in Spanish] Person: Whoo hoo!

[Singing in Spanish] [Applause] Crowd: ¡Viva!

Joseph, voice-over: It's never too late in San Antonio for another Fiesta adventure.

San Antonio's Fiesta is filled to the brim with royals-- King Antonio, El Rey Feo.

The Fiesta Queen and her court is so synonymous with Fiesta that some groups honor it by making fun of it.

Cornyation is an irreverent look at San Antonio and the regal side of Fiesta.

Backstage for Cornyation.

All right.

Hey!

Hey!

Hey!

Happy Cornyation!

Happy Cornyation.

How you doing?

Julie: So, what is your presentation?

Well, we're Ballet San Antonio.

We just rehearse for, like, one day, and then... Woman: This year we're doing, like, a spoof on "Swan Lake," and, um, we renamed it "Swan River Walk," since we have the River Walk here in San Antonio.

And then we all, uh, strip down into our booty shorts and dance to Britney.

[Laughter] Joseph: Well, with the level of talent of the people who participate in this and give of their selves, it is amazing.

Woman: This is our seventh year.

Joseph: Why do you keep coming back?

Man: Because it's so fun.

Because it's Cornyation.

Julie: You're a ballet dancer just so you can do this.

That's the side job?

No.

Maybe a little bit.

No.

[Laughter] [Modern music playing] [Cheering] Wow.

So what is this?

What's the group here?

Man: Pointless Sisters.

Joseph: Pointless Sisters.

Julie: This group-- they're really good dancers.

Joseph: Why do you guys do this?

Man: Because it's fun, it's wonderful, and it's for a good charity-- the San Antonio AIDS Foundation.

Julie: You all are all volunteers, right?

Man: We are volunteers.

Julie: How many hours do you rehearse?

Man: Since January up to April, and we design costumes, we design music.

Joseph: That's how you create community.

Man: Yes, sir.

Blood, sweat, tears, and money.

You guys are Cuban?

[Joseph speaking Spanish] [Cheering] Joseph: ¡Viva Cuba!

Others: ¡Viva Cuba!

Man: Yeah!

Different man: ¡Viva Cuba!

¡Viva Fiesta!

[Singing in Spanish] [Crowd cheering] Joseph, voice-over: The King William Fair takes place in San Antonio's oldest historic district.

It's a lighthearted, cheeky neighborhood happening that features a parade of colorful floats and unusual performers.

[Shouting] You know her?

You know her?

I know her.

This is my...

Both: Ex-sister-in-law.

[Laughter] Joseph: What makes this parade different than all the other ones that take place during Fiesta?

Diversity.

The people are not just from the King William district.

They're from all over the world.

The diversity is our prime thing.

[Drums playing] Really sweet local parade.

Really sweet local parade in a beautiful historic area.

Southtown is part of King William.

It's where the commercial establishments are-- fabulous restaurants, great shops, not what you would expect to find in San Antonio.

[People whistling] Oh, look.

I get my own nose flute.

So press it right here.

[Blowing air] You try it.

Ha ha ha!

He wants me to use the same one?

I don't think so.

[Humming "When the Saints Go Marching In"] OK, I'll practice!

Yes.

Next year!

Next year I'll be back.

[Singing in German] Prost!

Prost!

The German population of San Antonio first came to Texas in the late 19th century.

Today Texans of German background make up 17% of the population.

Now, in keeping with the definition of gemutlichkeit, as meaning the mixture of music, food, and drink that promotes community, the Gartenfest is part of the multicultural face of San Antonio's Fiesta.

Prost!

You are a king of the people.

Yeah.

You'll have a cerveza any way it comes.

That's right.

Dos Equis fits in here just as well as any--any other beer.

[Singing] Joseph, voice-over: Cultural diversity has always been a part of the San Antonio experience, and since everyone joins in each other's celebration, you can sample San Antonio's full menu of cultures at the 15 heritage theme areas at NIOSA, where you can find a dance to match the culture.

[Music playing] You know, San Antonio began in 1718, right here in La Villita.

Today the historic buildings house arts and craft shops, and 85,000 people gather each year for 4 nights of NIOSA-- Night In Old San Antonio.

It is the largest historic preservation festival in the country, and it supports the San Antonio Conservation Society's rehabilitation and restoration projects.

Oh!

Viva... ¡Viva Fiesta!

[Cheering] Joseph: How many of these NIOSAs have you been to?

I started in the 1970s.

I'm the oldest chairman they've ever had at 77, and I'm going strong.

Joseph: How many booths and how many... Barb: We have over 250 booths.

Yup.

We have 15 areas of different cultures.

Nobody gets left out in San Antonio.

Nobody.

Viva NIOSA...

Both: And viva Fiesta!

[Kiss] [Playing music] Joseph, voice-over: Food and drink have always been a part of our San Antonio visits.

Whenever we're here, we can't help but carry a few calories home as souvenirs.

An important ingredient of every San Antonio Fiesta is a hearty bowl of beans.

Every cook has their recipe, and we're helping the Bean King create a batch of beans for one of NIOSA's most popular food booths.

You are the King of Beans.

Ha ha ha!

Steve, you've been doing this how many generations?

I've been doing this going on 3 generations.

Ah.

And those taste pretty good to me.

They taste great to me.

Mm-mm.

So.

How about you, Julie?

Those are delicious.

Joseph: OK, masa in the center of the plate.

Flip it over, your plastic on top of it, and then press down.

A little bit more.

There you go.

Joseph: Yay!

I'm a tortilla maker!

Whoo!

Bean taco!

Bean taco!

Bean taco!

Ah, bean tacos!

[Cheering] Some cheese.

OK.

Tomatoes... [Cheering] Both: And that's how you make bean tacos!

Thank you for joining Julie and me on our San Antonio Fiesta adventure.

After decades of travel and 8 seasons of "Travelscope," we know that travel gives you more than souvenirs to bring back home.

In Rwanda, we learned about Umuganda-- community work.

In Bhutan, we were taught the 4 pillars of gross national happiness-- preservation of culture, conservation of the environment, sustainable development, and good governance.

It is a revelation to find those ideals at work here in San Antonio, Texas.

With more than 100 events and 3 million people attending, Fiesta is San Antonio's biggest party, yet it is a party with a purpose.

It honors history, tradition, and cultures and is above all a celebration of community.

Every year, more than 75,000 men, women, and children of every race, creed, and heritage donate their time and talents to a hundred nonprofits who put on Fiesta events and then plow their profits back into the community.

Government can't create community.

Community is created by people who are willing to give their time, sweat, and money for the greater good.

If you'd like to see how that works, come to San Antonio, and not just for Fiesta.

Until next time, this is Joseph and Julie Rosendo, reminding you of the words of Mark Twain... "Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness."

Both: Happy traveling, all y'all!

Ha ha ha!

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Joseph: Now that we've celebrated San Antonio's Fiesta together, learn more at Travelscope.net, where you can follow my worldwide adventures through my eMagazine, blog, podcast, and on Facebook.

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Old home week.

Hi.

How are you?

This is my husband Joseph.

Good to meet you finally.

I've heard a lot about you.

Thank you.

What are you doing here?

We're doing a TV show!

What do you have up there?

Oh, you name it.

That's some hat.

Thank you.

Mine's coming out looking like an ice-cream cone.

You're a beginner.

This is how you know, huh?

That's how you know.

[Music playing] Woman: Cascarones!

I--I know this tradition.

Ha!