San Miguel de Allende, Celebrating in the Heart of Mexico
1/26/2022 | 26m 46sVideo has Closed Captions
Joseph makes his way to San Miguel de Allende, Mexico for the annual Fiesta de San Migue.
Joseph makes his way to San Miguel de Allende, Mexico for the annual Fiesta de San Miguel, a celebration in honor of its patron saint. During his stay he soaks in the mystical Mayan Baths, steams with a shaman in a sweat lodge, sails in a hot air balloon and meets Chef Felipe of the Casa de Sierra Nevada, one of the town’s top chefs, to pick up the fixings for his one-on-one cooking class.
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San Miguel de Allende, Celebrating in the Heart of Mexico
1/26/2022 | 26m 46sVideo has Closed Captions
Joseph makes his way to San Miguel de Allende, Mexico for the annual Fiesta de San Miguel, a celebration in honor of its patron saint. During his stay he soaks in the mystical Mayan Baths, steams with a shaman in a sweat lodge, sails in a hot air balloon and meets Chef Felipe of the Casa de Sierra Nevada, one of the town’s top chefs, to pick up the fixings for his one-on-one cooking class.
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Learn Moreabout PBS online sponsorship>> WELCOME TO "JOSEPH ROSENDO'S TRAVELSCOPE," WHERE YOU JOIN US AS WE ACCEPT THE WORLD'S INVITATION TO VISIT.
[GRUNTS] [CAPTIONING MADE POSSIBLE BY FRIENDS OF NCI] >> TODAY I CELEBRATE ART, HISTORY, CULTURE, AND A DIFFERENT KIND OF MEXICAN VACATION SOUTH OF THE BORDER IN SAN MIGUEL DE ALLENDE.
>> "JOSEPH ROSENDO'S TRAVELSCOPE" IS MADE POSSIBLE BY: VOLVO'S OVERSEAS DELIVERY PROGRAM, WHERE BUYERS CAN PICK UP A NEW VOLVO IN SWEDEN, USE IT IN EUROPE, AND THEN HAVE IT JOIN THEM AT HOME; NO-JET-LAG JET LAG PREVENTION; AUBERGE RESORTS' DISTINCTIVE COLLECTION OF LUXURY RESORTS, RESIDENCES, AND SPAS.
>> SAN MIGUEL DE ALLENDE IS A COLONIAL TOWN 180 MILES NORTHWEST OF MEXICO CITY AND MORE THAN 400 MILES FROM THE NEAREST BEACH.
IT'S IDEAL FOR THE TRAVELER IN SEARCH OF MORE THAN THE TYPICAL MEXICAN VACATION.
SERGIO, HOW LONG HAVE YOU LIVED HERE IN SAN MIGUEL?
>> I'VE BEEN HERE SINCE, LIKE, '93.
>> OH.
>> YEAH.
>> QUITE A WHILE.
>> YEAH.
EXACTLY.
>> WHAT BROUGHT YOU AND WHAT KEEPS YOU?
>> YOU KNOW, I WAS--GIRL, LOVE.
SHE CAME TO STUDY ART HERE, AND SHE INVITED ME TO COME, AND I FELL IN LOVE WITH IT INSTANTLY, YEAH.
IT'S THAT KIND OF PLACE.
>> MANY PEOPLE JUST KNOW MEXICO FROM ITS BEACHES, BEACH RESORTS.
THIS IS COMPLETELY DIFFERENT HERE.
>> COMPLETELY.
WHEN I USED TO TELL PEOPLE SAN MIGUEL, THEY ALWAYS USED TO GO, "IS THAT NEAR THE BEACH?"
BUT IT DRAWS IN A DIFFERENT CROWD HERE, YOU KNOW, THE ARTS.
>> SAN MIGUEL DE ALLENDE'S A KIND OF SMALL TOWN, BUT UP HERE, YOU CAN SEE THAT IT'S REALLY GROWING.
>> IT'S GROWING.
>> WHAT'S BRINGING EVERYBODY?
>> THE LAIDBACK LIFESTYLE AND THE WEATHER.
>> YOU CAN'T HAVE THIS KIND OF PERSPECTIVE ON ANY DESTINATION ANY OTHER WAY.
IT'S JUST--IT'S VERY, VERY UNIQUE.
YOU'RE UP SO HIGH, AND YET IT'S SO NICE.
WHOA!
>> SOMETIMES, YOU HAVE THESE REALLY NICE SOFT LANDINGS, BUT YOU REALLY DON'T REMEMBER THOSE.
YOU REMEMBER THE REALLY NICE...
ROUGH ONES.
>> THE ONES THAT WAKE YOU UP.
FOUNDED DURING THE SPANISH COLONIAL ERA, SAN MIGUEL DE ALLENDE IS RICH WITH BAROQUE CHARM.
IT'S ONE OF THE REASONS THAT EL CENTRO, THE HISTORIC HEART OF THE CITY, WAS DESIGNATED A UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITE IN 2008.
A WALK THROUGH SAN MIGUEL'S COBBLESTONE STREETS, TAKING IN THE HISTORIC BEAUTY, IS ONE OF THE TOWN'S LAIDBACK PLEASURES.
THE ATMOSPHERE OF ARCHITECTURAL SPLENDOR HAS CREATED AN ENVIRONMENT WHERE IN VARIOUS SETTINGS ART IN ALL FORMS FROM FOLK ART TO FINE ART FLOURISHES.
THE MERCADO DE ARTESANIAS IS A 3-BLOCK-LONG MARKET IN AN ALLEYWAY BETWEEN BUILDINGS WHERE YOU CAN FIND PRODUCTS FROM ALL OVER MEXICO SUCH AS INDIGENOUS ART FROM NAYARIT AND JALISCO STATE OR SILVER FROM TAXCO OR THINGS THAT ARE MADE RIGHT HERE IN SAN MIGUEL DE ALLENDE.
¡BUENOS DIAS, SENOR!
>> ¡BUENOS DIAS!
>> THE ARTISTIC HEART OF SAN MIGUEL BEGAN TO BEAT IN EARNEST WITH THE ESTABLISHMENT IN THE MID 20th CENTURY OF SEVERAL ART SCHOOLS.
AFTER THE SECOND WORLD WAR, THE INSTITUTO ALLENDE PROSPERED THROUGH THE INFLUX OF RETURNING AMERICAN SOLDIERS, WHO UNDER THE AUSPICES OF THE GI BILL WERE ABLE TO STUDY ART ABROAD.
TODAY THE INSTITUTO ATTRACTS STUDENTS FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD AND, TRUE TO ITS VISION, OFFERS AN EDUCATION WHICH SPECIALIZES IN THE CULTURAL AND VISUAL ARTS.
IN MY TRAVELS, I'VE DISCOVERED THAT DATES AND BUILDINGS AREN'T NEARLY AS IMPORTANT AS PEOPLE, YET THEY ARE OFTEN A GOOD WAY TO INTRODUCE A DESTINATION AND CAN OFFER INSIGHTS INTO THE HEART AND SOUL OF A PLACE.
IN SAN MIGUEL DE ALLENDE, THERE ARE 4 VERY IMPORTANT DATES.
IN 1542, THE TOWN WAS FOUNDED AS SAN MIGUEL EL GRANDE BY FRAY JUAN DE SAN MIGUEL IN HONOR OF SAINT MICHAEL THE ARCHANGEL.
IN 1810, IT WAS NAMED THE FIRST INDEPENDENT TOWN IN MEXICO BY THE REVOLUTIONARY ARMY.
IN 1826, THE NAME WAS CHANGED TO SAN MIGUEL DE ALLENDE IN HONOR OF IGANCIO ALLENDE, WHO WAS ONE OF THE ARCHITECTS OF THE MEXICAN REVOLUTION AND, IN FACT, WAS BORN HERE, AND FINALLY IN 1951, THE INSTITUTO ALLENDE WAS ESTABLISHED ON THIS SITE AND LAID THE CORNERSTONE FOR THE ARTISTIC MECCA THE TOWN HAS BECOME.
BESIDES BEING A SPANISH LANGUAGE SCHOOL, THERE ARE ALSO MANY ARTISTIC DISCIPLINES THAT ARE TAUGHT HERE SUCH AS PAINTING, JEWELRY MAKING, AND SCULPTURE.
IT'S SUCH A PRESTIGIOUS ART SCHOOL THAT I'VE AGREED TO MODEL FOR THEM.
UHH!
ART AND CULTURE IS SUCH AN INTEGRAL PART OF THE SPIRIT OF SAN MIGUEL DE ALLENDE THAT EVEN NEWCOMERS, LIKE THE ELEGANT ROSEWOOD HOTEL, PAY HOMAGE TO THE TOWN'S CREATIVE TRADITIONS IN THE HOTEL'S DESIGN AND THROUGH THE PROGRAMS AND ACTIVITIES REGULARLY OFFERED GUESTS.
ABOUT 50% OF AN MIGUEL'S HISTORIC BUILDINGS HOUSE SHOPS, RESTAURANTS, ARTIST GALLERIES, AND STUDIOS.
A PRIME EXAMPLE OF THE PAST SERVING THE PRESENT IS THE FABRICA LA AURORA, A DEFUNCT TEXTILE MILLE TRANSFORMED INTO AN ART CENTER.
NOW HOW DOES SAN MIGUEL DE ALLENDE INSPIRE YOUR ART?
>> BASICALLY MY SOUL IS LATIN, BUT I'M SORT OF A TEX-MEX.
I HAVE A TEXAS HEART AND A LATIN SOUL, MEXICAN SOUL, AND MY WORK IS ABOUT THE WOMEN SOLDIERS FROM THE MEXICAN REVOLUTION OF 1910.
>> THIS IS A GREAT SPOT FOR YOU TO BE SINCE SAN MIGUEL DE ALLENDE'S CALLED THE CRADLE OF THE MEXICAN REVOLUTION.
>> YES.
>> NOW HOW ABOUT WORKING WITH OTHER--OR BEING NEAR OTHER ARTISTS HERE IN THIS THING.
>> THIS ENERGY'S INTENSIFIED BECAUSE SAN MIGUEL ALREADY HAS THAT CREATIVE ENERGY.
WHEN YOU PUT YOURSELF CLOSE TO THE ENERGY OF SO MANY WORKING ARTISTS, IT'S LIKE A MECCA, AND IT'S VERY ENERGIZING.
>> BESIDES BEING AN INSPIRATIONAL TOWN IN WHICH TO WORK, SAN MIGUEL DE ALLENDE IS ALSO A PLACE TO PLAY.
JUST ABOUT A GOOD TEE SHOT AWAY FROM EL CENTRO, THE GOLF COMMUNITY OF LOS VENTANAS DE SAN MIGUEL IS GROWING UP AROUND THE TOWN'S FIRST 18-HOLE GOLF COURSE.
ME NEXT!
ALL RIGHT.
>> IT'S YOUR TURN, JOE.
>> ALL RIGHT.
OK. >> OK. YOU SEE THE CHURCH?
>> YES.
>> YOU HAVE TO HIT THIS.
>> I HAVE TO HIT THE CHURCH?
OK. GOOD.
>> GET THE BIG ONE.
>> OOH!
>> THAT'S OK. >> I WAS SHOOTING FOR THAT CHURCH OVER THERE.
>> THAT'S WHY YOU HAVE TO MARK CHURCHES.
>> NOT MUCH OF A GOLFER, BUT THE NICE THING ABOUT GOLF COURSES IS THAT THEY'RE ALWAYS IN BEAUTIFUL LOCATIONS.
SO THIS IS WHAT IT USED TO LOOK LIKE HERE?
>> YEAH.
IT USED TO BE LIKE THAT--CACTUS, HUISACHES, RED PEPPER TREE.
>> WELL, THAT'S BEAUTIFUL, AND YOU KEPT THAT PART, AND THIS IS WHAT IT'S BECOMING NOW, AND THEN THAT'S WHAT IT'S GOING TO BE.
>> YEAH.
>> HOW MANY HOMES ARE YOU EXPECTING TO HAVE HERE?
>> WELL, 700.
>> NOW 10% OF THE POPULATION HERE IN SAN MIGUEL IS FOREIGN.
>> THE SECOND LARGEST AMERICAN COMMUNITY IN MEXICO.
>> SO IF SOMEBODY WANTS TO RETIRE DOWN IN MEXICO, STILL A GOOD A VALUE?
>> THIS IS A GREAT OPPORTUNITY.
>> WHAT'S YOUR NEXT PROJECT?
>> WELL, WE'RE GONNA START BUILDING THE CLUB HOUSE AND A SMALL VINEYARD IN THE FOOTHILLS.
>> SO IF I WANT A GLASS OF WINE OR A MARGARITA, I HAVE TO WAIT?
>> NO WAY.
>> NO?
>> YEAH, WE CAN GO TO SAN MIGUEL.
>> HOW FAR AWAY ARE WE?
>> WALKING DISTANCE.
>> THIS IS SOMETHING I CAN DO.
I CAN'T GOLF VERY WELL, BUT I CAN CERTAINLY ENJOY A MARGARITA.
LET'S GO.
>> ALL RIGHT.
>> IT'S EASY TO FIND A DRINK OR A MEAL IN TOWN.
THERE ARE MORE THAN A HUNDRED RESTAURANTS FEATURING REGIONAL CUISINE AND INTERNATIONAL FARE.
AT DINNER WITH FRIENDS AT THE HOTEL CASA DE SIERRA NEVADA, I ENJOY TRADITIONAL MEXICAN DISHES INFUSED WITH THE CULINARY FLARE OF CHEF FELIPE RAMIREZ.
TO DISCOVER HOW HE PERFORMS HIS MAGIC, I JOINED THE CHEF ON HIS DAILY HUNT FOR INGREDIENTS IN SAN MIGUEL'S TRADITIONAL COVERED MARKET.
>> THIS IS THE PLACE WHERE YOU CAN FIND ALL KIND OF CHEESES.
THIS IS THE REQUESON CHEESE.
>> OH, GRACIAS, SENORA.
REQUESON?
TELL ME ABOUT REQUESON.
>> THIS IS MORE SIMILAR OF THE RICOTTA CHEESE.
>> OH.
WOW.
MMM.
>> IT'S A VERY CREAMY CHEESE.
>> ¡BUENO, BUENO!
YEAH.
ALL RIGHT.
THIS IS GOOD.
>> IT'S GREAT.
YEAH.
>> VERY GOOD.
BUENO, BUENO.
>> HERE.
WE NEED THE RANCHERO.
>> RIGHT.
>> AND ONE OF CREAM.
>> ONE SOUR CREAM.
>> THAT'S IT.
>> SO, CHEF, HERE IN THE MARKET, YOU CAN BUY CLOTHES, YOU CAN BUY SHOES, YOU CAN BUY EARRINGS, AND YOU CAN BUY FOOD.
>> HERE IS WHERE YOU CAN FIND ALL KIND OF PRODUCE.
>> HOLA, SENORA.
WHAT'S HER NAME?
[SPEAKS SPANISH] >> WHAT IS YOUR NAME?
[SPEAKS SPANISH] >> LILY.
>> LILY.
>> LILY.
OK. >> MUY BIEN, LILY.
IF YOU LOOK HERE, YOU CAN FIND KIND OF HONEYS, YOU CAN FIND BEE POLLEN, SOME KIND OF HERBS.
YOU CAN FIND CILANTRO, THYME, AND EPAZOTE.
IF YOU LOOK--YOU KNOW THIS?
>> I THINK I DO.
>> WHAT IS THAT?
>> IT'S A FRUIT?
ES FRUTA?
>> NO.
THIS IS THE CORN FUNGUS.
IT 'S THE HUITLACOCHE.
>> HUITLACOCHE.
>> HUITLACOCHE, YES.
IF YOU LOOK AT THIS, YOU CAN SEE-- >> YOU CAN SEE THE FUNGUS RIGHT IN THERE.
>> TODAY WE NEED THIS.
>> YOU NEED THAT.
>> YEAH.
>> AND WHAT ELSE ARE WE GONNA USE TODAY?
>> MAYBE WE NEED CHILE.
HABANERO CHILE.
THIS IS VERY SPICY.
>> OOH!
INTERESTING.
THEY LOOK KIND OF LIKE BELL PEPPER.
DON'T BE FOOLED.
>> AND WE NEED LIMES.
>> LIMES, LIMON.
>> LIMON.
YEAH.
THESE.
>> THIS IS A MAIN STAPLE IN MEXICO, WHETHER YOU'RE PUTTING IT ON YOUR FRUIT OR IN YOUR DRINKS.
LIMES ARE VERY IMPORTANT.
>> [SPEAKING SPANISH] >> THAT WAS 40 PESOS FOR ALL OF THE CHEF'S STUFF, AND THAT'S PROBABLY ABOUT--THAT'S ABOUT $3.00, A LITTLE BIT MORE THAN $3.00 RIGHT NOW IN U.S.
DOLLARS.
SO WHAT ARE WE GETTING HERE?
>> FRESH BLUE CORN TORTILLA.
>> AND THE WHITE.
>> WHITE CORN TORTILLAS, OK?
>> I'VE HAD THE BLUE CORN AS CHIPS BUT NEVER AS A TORTILLA.
OH, HERE, LOOK.
NOPALITOS.
>> THIS IS FOR MAKE THE SALAD.
>> SI.
GRACIAS.
MMM.
QUE BUENO.
LET'S GO COOK.
>> LET'S GO.
>> [SPEAKS SPANISH] ARMED WITH ALL THE FIXINGS, CHEF RAMIREZ TAKES ME TO SAZON, HOTEL CASA DE SIERRA NEVADA'S COOKING SCHOOL, SO I CAN HELP HIM WHIP UP A FEW FAVORITES.
SO WHILE THIS IS FRYING, YOU'RE BREAKING UP THE FUNGUS.
>> YEAH.
>> THAT IS REALLY UNUSUAL.
ONLY MEXICANS COOK WITH THIS, RIGHT?
I DON'T SEE ANY OTHER CULTURE THAT USES THIS.
>> YES.
YOU SEE IT HERE IN MEXICO.
IT'S MORE POPULAR.
HERE ARE THESE ONIONS.
>> THE ONIONS ARE LOOKING NICE.
THEY'RE STARTING TO BE A LITTLE BROWN.
>> YEAH.
THIS IS GOOD.
>> TOMATOES ARE ALSO LOOKING NICE.
>> OK. NOW YOU CAN ADD-- >> ALL OF THIS?
>> ALL OF THIS, YEAH.
>> I LIKE THIS.
THIS IS GENEROUS.
THEY'RE VERY GENEROUS HERE IN MEXICO.
>> AND WE NEED TO ADD A LITTLE BIT OF THE VEGETABLE BROTH.
>> ♪ LA DA DA DA ♪ ISN'T THERE A SONG THAT WE SHOULD BE SINGING?
♪ ADIOS, MUCHACHOS COMPANEROS ♪ SOMETHING?
"GUANTANAMERA"--THAT'D BE A CUBAN SONG, SO NEED A MEXICAN ANTHEM TO BE COOKING.
YOU HAVE TO BE SINGING WHEN YOU'RE COOKING.
>> THE EPAZOTE.
YOU REMEMBER THE EPAZOTE IN THE MARKET?
>> I DO.
WONDERFUL SMELL.
>> YEAH.
THIS IS THE CILANTRO AND EPAZOTE, OK?
>> JUST LIKE THAT?
>> THIS IS USED FOR MAKING THE INFUSION FLAVOR IN THE CREAM.
I'M NOW GONNA MAKE THE TOMATO SAUCE.
>> CUT IN HALF?
>> YEAH.
PUT THE TOMATO IN THE PAN.
THE GARLIC GO IN THE JUICE WITH ALL THE SKIN.
>> CHOPPED FRESH CILANTRO.
>> YEAH.
>> THE BEST WAY FOR USE THIS KIND OF BLENDER IS PUT ALL IN THE MIDDLE.
>> IN THE MIDDLE AND CRUSH IT.
MMM.
>> IS GOOD?
>> AHH!
OH!
IT'S GOOD, AND IT'S SPICY!
>> IT'S VERY SPICY?
>> NOT VERY, VERY SPICY.
AHEM.
IT IS SPICY.
>> YEAH.
HA HA HA!
>> IT'S GOOD AND FABULOUS.
>> OK.
HERE THE HUITLACOCHE CREAM IS READY.
PUT IT IN THE MIXER.
>> SO EVERYTHING HAS BEEN BLENDED.
>> AND NOW ENCHILADAS.
IT'S A VERY SIMPLE PREPARATION.
>> YES.
>> WE NEED CRUMBLED CHEESE.
>> OK.
THIS IS THE RANCHERO?
>> THIS IS THE RANCHERO.
THIS WAY.
>> AH, YES.
A LITTLE DESIGN THERE.
A LITTLE ARTISTIC.
SAN MIGUEL DE ALLENDE NOTED FOR ARTISTS.
THIS IS THE ART OF COOKING.
>> YEAH.
>> FABULOUS.
>> THE HUITLACOCHE CREAM SOUP IS READY.
>> WHAT A FEAST, AND LOOK HOW INEXPENSIVE AND HOW FRESH AND QUICK RELATIVELY SPEAKING THIS WAS ALL DONE.
CHEF FELIPE, BUEN PROVECHO.
>> BUEN PROVECHO.
>> VERY GOOD.
>> VERY GOOD.
>> EVEN IF WE SAY SO OURSELVES.
>> YEAH.
>> THE FINAL.
>> THE ENCHILADAS.
>> [SPEAKS SPANISH] MUCHAS GRACIAS.
>> MUCHAS GRACIAS, JOSEPH.
>> THAT'S GOOD.
INCORPORATING 6 16th AND 18th CENTURY COLONIAL MANSIONS, THE CASA DE SIERRA NEVADA OFFERS MORE THAN CULINARY EXPERIENCES.
>> [SINGING IN SPANISH] >> FROM THE BALCONIES OF ITS LUXURY ROOMS, GUESTS HAVE GREAT CITY VIEWS.
IT'S CENTRALLY LOCATED.
JUST 1 1/2 BLOCKS AWAY IS SAN MIGUEL'S MOST FAMOUS LANDMARKS: EL JARDIN, THE CENTRAL PLAZA; AND LA PARROQUIA, THE PARISH CHURCH, WHERE EVERY SEPTEMBER THE FIESTA OF SAINT MICHAEL THE ARCHANGEL TAKES PLACE AND SAN MIGUEL'S NORMALLY LAIDBACK AMBIANCE EXPLODES.
WHOO-HOO-HOO!
OK.
HERE WE GO.
WE'RE GONNA DO--WE'RE GONNA BLOW UP ONE OF THESE LITTLE DOLLS.
OK.
THIS IS THE WAY YOU DO IT.
YOU SWIRL IT AROUND.
OH, NO.
IT'S ON A PINWHEEL.
SOME OF THEM HAVE GIFTS FOR THE KIDS.
GRACIAS.
>> UNA MAS.
>> UNA MAS?
UNA MAS.
OK.
HE SAYS ONE MORE.
[POW, POW] DON'T LOOK UP.
THINGS ARE FALLING ALL OVER THE PLACE.
[POW] THERE'S SOME GIFTS FOR THE KIDS.
I'M FINISHED.
GRACIAS.
HA!
THIS IS CRAZY.
WHAT KIND OF A CELEBRATION IS THIS?
IT'S AMAZING.
IT'S A CELEBRATION LIKE MANY IN MEXICO... PART CULTURAL FESTIVAL AND PART RELIGIOUS OBSERVANCE.
IN MEXICO, THE SECULAR AND THE SPIRITUAL ARE ENTWINED.
SAN MIGUEL'S CITYWIDE PARTY PAYS TRIBUTE TO THE TOWN'S PATRON SAINT--SAINT MICHAEL THE ARCHANGEL.
HISTORICALLY IT BEGINS IN THE LA AURORA NEIGHBORHOOD.
OK.
THESE ARE THE LADIES WHO LIVE IN THIS HOUSE.
THIS IS THEIR HOME WHERE SAINT MICHAEL THE ARCHANGEL HAS BEEN SPENDING THE NIGHT BECAUSE ONE PART OF THIS FESTIVAL-- >> [SPEAKING SPANISH] >> HERE'S HERE SISTER THERE.
SHE'S INTRODUCED ME TO THE WHOLE FAMILY.
MUCHA GUSTA, SENORA.
MUCHA GUSTA, SENORA.
SO THE WHOLE FAMILY HAS BEEN HOSTING...
THE WHOLE FAMILY HAS BEEN HOSTING-- >> MI HERMANA.
>> AN HERMANA OVER HERE.
THEY'VE BEEN HOSTING THE SAINT.
THE SAINT HAS BEEN AT A DIFFERENT NEIGHBORHOOD EVERY NIGHT FOR THE LAST WEEK, AND THIS IS THE BIG KICKOFF OF THE FIESTA DE SAN MIGUEL THE ARCHANGEL.
SAINT MICHAEL'S PROCESSION FROM LA AURORA TO THE CHURCH LA PARROQUIA EVOKES AN OUTPOURING OF JOY AND DEVOTION.
LOCAL DANCE GROUPS PARODY THE SPANISH COLONIALISTS AND HONOR THE INDIGENOUS NATIVES WHILE THE HOMESPUN BANDS PLAY ON.
WELL, HERE WE ARE IN THE STREETS AGAIN...
IN A LATIN AMERICAN COUNTRY...
CARRYING FLOWERS AND FOLLOWING A SAINT.
THIS IS SO WONDERFUL.
WE WERE IN GUATEMALA FOR SEMANA SANTA.
THIS IS MUCH SMALLER AT THIS POINT, BUT IT'S NO LESS WARM AND INVITING.
LANDMARKS, BUILDINGS--THEY DON'T MEAN ANYTHING COMPARED TO THE EXPERIENCE LIKE THIS.
[BELLS TOLLING] [FIREWORKS EXPLODING] [FIREWORKS WHISTLE] ALL THIS FUN, AND YOU GET BLESSED, TOO.
HA HA HA!
IN THE CACOPHONY OF CELEBRATION, THE SAN MIGUEL FESTIVAL OFFICIALLY BEGINS AS THE ICON OF SAINT MICHAEL IS RETURNED TO ITS PERMANENT HOME.
[BELLS TOLLING] THE NEW DAY BRINGS MORE FESTIVITIES.
AT THE EDGE OF SAN MIGUEL DE ALLENDE, COMMUNITIES FROM FAR AND NEAR GATHER FOR THE START OF THE MAJOR FESTIVAL PARADE.
[TRUMPETS] EVERY YEAR FOR THE FEAST OF SAINT MICHAEL THE ARCHANGEL, COMMUNITIES SURROUNDING SAN MIGUEL DE ALLENDE AND AS FAR AWAY AS ZACATECAS, 5 HOURS BY BUS, ARE INVITED TO COME AND JOIN IN THIS LARGE PROCESSION, WHERE THEY'RE DRESSED IN DIFFERENT COSTUMES.
[BAND PLAYING] THIS IS AN EXCELLENT EXAMPLE OF WHAT MAKES THIS PARTICULAR PROCESSION UNIQUE.
IT'S THE SUCHILES.
THE SUCHILES ARE MADE FROM INDIGENOUS PLANTS FROM THE AREA LIKE THE PALM, LIKE THE MARIGOLD.
THEY'RE ALWAYS MADE DEPICTING A RELIGIOUS SUBJECT MATTER.
ANYWHERE FROM 8 TO 12 MEN CARRY THE SUCHILES TO THE CHURCH.
THE SUCHILES ARE BEDS OF WOVEN REEDS UP TO 21 FEET LONG, SYMBOLIC OF STRETCHERS USED TO CARRY THE DEAD FROM A BATTLEFIELD.
PROUDLY DISPLAYED AT THE CHURCH, THE SUCHILES REMIND THE CATHOLIC FAITHFUL THAT SAINT MICHAEL THE ARCHANGEL, PRINCE OF HE HEAVENLY SPIRITS, CONTINUES TO PROTECT THEM AGAINST SATAN AND HIS ARMY OF FALLEN ANGELS.
I CAN TELL YOU THAT ALL OF THE PEOPLE WHO'VE WORKED SO HARD FROM THE DIFFERENT COMMUNITIES TO CREATE THESE AND TO CARRY THEM--THEY AREN'T LIGHT--ARE REALLY PROUD OF BEING HERE AT THIS TIME IN THIS PLACE.
>> EVERY DAY.
>> CADA DIA.
>> EVERY DAY.
>> EVERY DAY.
WHILE THE SUCHILES ARE EXAMPLES OF RELIGIOUS FOLK ART, THE MOJIGANGAS BEST REPRESENT SAN MIGUEL'S ARTISTIC TRADITION.
DATING BACK TO THE 17th CENTURY, THESE 10-FOOT-TALL WOOD, CARDBOARD, AND PAPIER-MACHE PUPPETS ADD A HUMAN TOUCH TO THE SPIRITUAL CELEBRATION.
HERMES ARROYO IS THE MOJIGANGA MASTER HERE IN SAN MIGUEL DE ALLENDE.
WHAT IS A MOJIGANGA?
WELL, ESTA.
AND THEY COME IN DIFFERENT SIZES?
UH-HUH.
THIS IS MOJIGANGA JOSEPH ROSENDO HAVING A FIESTA IN SAN MIGUEL DE ALLENDE.
>> [CHANTING, "SAN MIGUEL"] >> WHOO, WHOO, WHOO!
>> IT'S 3:00 IN THE MORNING.
ALL THE NEIGHBORHOODS ARE NOW STARTING TO CONVERGE HERE.
THESE PEOPLE ARE AS EXCITED AS IF THEY WON THE WORLD CUP, BUT THIS ISN'T A SPORTING EVENT THAT THEY'RE CHEERING ABOUT.
THEIR CHEERS SAY, "SAINT MICHAEL, SAINT MICHAEL, SAINT MICHAEL," AND, "THE VIRGIN OF THE LIGHT, THE VIRGIN OF THE LIGHT.
VIVA--LONG LIVE THE VIRGIN OF THE LIGHT."
WHERE ARE YOU FROM?
>> FROM HERE, FROM SAN MIGUEL.
>> OK.
WHICH NEIGHBORHOOD ARE YOU FROM?
>> I'M LUCKY TO HAVE HERE MY DAD'S HOUSE.
>> YOUR DAD'S HOUSE RIGHT DOWN HERE.
NOW WHERE ARE YOU LIVING NOW?
>> NEW ORLEANS.
>> YOU CAME BACK FOR THE FESTIVAL.
>> YES.
YOU HAVE TO GO BACK HOME.
WE CALL IT PATRIA HERE.
IN SAN MIGUEL AND MEXICO IS LA PATRIA FOR US.
>> ROCKETS AND OTHER PYROTECHNICS LAUNCH FROM LA PARROQUIA AND EL JARDIN TO EXPLODE OVER THE HEADS OF THE PEOPLE.
ALTHOUGH THE SPECTACLE SYMBOLIZES THE ONGOING CONFLICT BETWEEN GOOD AND EVIL, ABOVE ALL ELSE IT'S A BOISTEROUS, FESTIVE DISPLAY OF MEXICAN SPIRIT.
[BAND PLAYING] [CHEERING] THANK YOU FOR JOINING ME ON MY SAN MIGUEL DE ALLENDE ADVENTURE.
WHEN PEOPLE CONSIDER TRAVELING TO MEXICO, THEY OFTEN THINK OF THE BEACH.
WHETHER IT'S IN CANCUN, CABO, OR PUERTO VALLARTA, FUN IN THE SUN IS WHAT FIRST COMES TO MIND.
SAN MIGUEL DE ALLENDE, ONE OF MEXICO'S COLONIAL TOWNS, OFFERS SOMETHING DIFFERENT.
AMONG ITS MANY ATTRACTIONS ARE ITS ARTISTIC SPIRIT, ITS HISTORIC LEGACY, AND ITS COLORFUL TRADITIONS.
ITS POPULATION, 10% FOREIGN-BORN, PROTECT THEIR WORLD HERITAGE LANDMARKS WHILE SHARING THEIR CULTURAL RICHES.
SAN MIGUEL DE ALLENDE IS CALLED THE HEART OF MEXICO BECAUSE OF ITS GEOGRAPHICAL LOCATION AND BECAUSE OF ITS ROLE IN THE MEXICAN WAR OF INDEPENDENCE BUT ALSO BECAUSE OF ITS WARM, OPEN-HEARTED, AND WELCOMING PEOPLE.
I'VE BEEN TRAVELING TO MEXICO FOR 40 YEARS, AND EL CORAZON, THE HEART OF MEXICO, HAS ALWAYS BEEN ITS PEOPLE.
THAT'S TRUE HERE IN SAN MIGUEL DE ALLENDE, AS WELL.
UNTIL NEXT TIME, THIS IS JOSEPH ROSENDO REMINDING YOU OF THE WORDS OF MARK TWAIN--"TRAVEL IS FATAL TO PREJUDICE, BIGOTRY, AND NARROW-MINDEDNESS."
HAPPY TRAVELING.
>> "JOSEPH ROSENDO'S TRAVELSCOPE" IS MADE POSSIBLE BY: VOLVO'S OVERSEAS DELIVERY PROGRAM, WHERE BUYERS CAN PICK UP A NEW VOLVO IN SWEDEN, USE IT IN EUROPE, AND THEN HAVE IT JOIN THEM AT HOME; NO-JET-LAG JET LAG PREVENTION; AUBERGE RESORTS' DISTINCTIVE COLLECTION OF LUXURY RESORTS, RESIDENCES, AND SPAS.
FOR A DVD OF TODAY'S SHOW OR ANY OF JOSEPH'S "TRAVELSCOPE" ADVENTURES, CALL 888-876-3399 OR ORDER ONLINE AT TRAVELSCOPE.NET.
YOU CAN ALSO E-MAIL US AT TV@TRAVELSCOPE.NET OR WRITE US AT THE ADDRESS ON YOUR SCREEN.
>> NOW THAT WE'VE CELEBRATED IN THE HEART OF MEXICO, LEARN MORE AT TRAVELSCOPE.NET, WHERE YOU CAN FOLLOW MY ADVENTURES THROUGH MY E-MAGAZINE, BLOG, PODCAST, AND ON FACEBOOK.
KEEP IN TOUCH.
888-876-3399 OR TV@TRAVELSCOPE.NET.
[CAPTIONING MADE POSSIBLE BY FRIENDS OF NCI] [CAPTIONED BY THE NATIONAL CAPTIONING INSTITUTE --www.ncicap.org--] [POW] I THINK THAT'S MY LAST ONE.
I KNOW IT'S JON'S LAST ONE.
LET'S GO, JON.
WHY DON'T YOU COME THIS WAY, AWAY FROM THE ONE BEHIND YOU AND THE ONE FROM OVER HERE?
WE'RE SURROUNDED BY... [POW] EXPLOSIONS.
Joseph Rosendo’s Travelscope is presented by your local public television station.
Distributed nationally by American Public Television