
South West of Norway: Fat Ducks and Sweet Apples
Season 2 Episode 206 | 26m 32sVideo has Closed Captions
Visit sights along the Telemark canal, which unites Norway's coast and mountains.
Host Andreas Viestad visits a duck farm and an old steamer on the Telemark canal, which unites coastal Norway with the barren mountain regions. Andreas serves a variety of duck and local trout to combine the richness of the land with the spirit of the river.
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New Scandinavian Cooking is presented by your local public television station.
Distributed nationally by American Public Television

South West of Norway: Fat Ducks and Sweet Apples
Season 2 Episode 206 | 26m 32sVideo has Closed Captions
Host Andreas Viestad visits a duck farm and an old steamer on the Telemark canal, which unites coastal Norway with the barren mountain regions. Andreas serves a variety of duck and local trout to combine the richness of the land with the spirit of the river.
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Learn Moreabout PBS online sponsorshipTHIS PROGRAM IS FUNDED BY THE FOLLOWING... NORWEGIAN SALMON IS OCEAN-FARMED BY CRAFTSMEN, BLENDING TRADITION WITH TECHNOLOGY.
[ LAUGHTER, HEARTBEAT, MUSIC ] Woman: CREATED BY ME, A MOM OF THREE, TO MAKE MOBILE KIDS SAFER AND YOUR LIFE EASIER.
♪ ♪ >> HI, AND WELCOME TO "NEW SCANDINAVIAN COOKING" FROM TELEMARKSKANAL -- THE WATERWAYS THAT CUT THROUGH MUCH OF SOUTHERN NORWAY.
I'M ANDREAS VIESTAD.
A RIVER AND CANAL SYSTEM LIKE THIS IS IMPORTANT -- NOT JUST BECAUSE OF ITS LUSHNESS AND BEAUTY, BUT ALSO THE WAY IT UNITES THE BARREN MOUNTAIN REGIONS WITH THE ROUGH AND WINDBLOWN COASTAL AREA LIFE ALONG THE RIVER HAS ITS OWN PACE, ITS OWN RICHNESS.
IF THERE'S A SYMBOL FOR THAT RICHNESS, IT MUST BE THE DUCK, UNITING THE FAT OF THE LAND WITH THE SPIRIT OF THE RIVER.
IN TODAY'S PROGRAM WE'LL CELEBRATE THE DUCK AND EVERYTHING IT GIVES US.
I'LL START OFF BY MAKING A DUCK LIVER MOUSSE, AS LUXURIOUS AS ANYTHING YOU'LL GET SERVED IN A FINE RESTAURANT, BUT AMAZINGLY SIMPLE TO MAKE.
THEN I'LL MAKE A FRESH TASTING COLORFUL SALAD WITH DUCK EGGS AND HEARTS.
THERE ARE OTHER RESOURCES IN THE RIVERS AND LAKES AS WELL -- I'LL USE LOCAL TROUT AND SERVE IT WITH A FLAVORFUL DUCK SAUCE.
AND FOR MAIN COURSE, I'LL COMBINE DUCK WITH LOCAL APPLES.
GRILLED DUCK BREAST AND APPLES, AND APPLE FLAVORED DUCK LEGS.
DUCK LIVER AND GOOSE LIVER ARE DELICACIES; THEY'RE ALSO QUITE CONTROVERSIAL, BECAUSE THEY'RE ASSOCIATED WITH FOIE GRAS, THE ENLARGED AND FATTY LIVER OF DUCKS OR GEESE THAT HAVE BEEN FORCE-FED.
BUT ALSO NORMAL DUCK LIVERS ARE VERY, VERY GOOD.
THEY'RE JUST NOT AS FATTY.
SO YOU'LL NEED TO ADD SOME FAT.
I'M GOING TO FRY THE LIVERS IN BUTTER.
I'M ADDING SOME FINELY CHOPPED SHALLOTS.
SALT AND PEPPER.
I COOK THEM OVER RELATIVELY HIGH HEAT, FIRST, AND THEN I REDUCE THE HEAT TO MEDIUM.
THE LIVERS ARE DONE WHEN THEY'RE NEARLY COOKED THROUGH, WHEN THERE'S STILL A SHADE OF PINK IN THE MIDDLE.
SO THIS WILL NEED ANOTHER COUPLE OF MINUTES.
WHEN THE LIVERS ARE NEARLY FINISHED, I'M ADDING A LITTLE BIT OF OREGANO.
YOU CAN ALSO USE THYME.
AND NOW THE LIVERS ARE DONE.
I TURN OFF THE HEAT.
I ADD A TEASPOON OF HONEY... AND FAT.
THIS IS A RICH DISH -- FOIE GRAS HAS 60% OR 70% FAT.
I'M GOING TO KEEP WELL BELOW THAT, BUT I'M GOING TO ADD AS MUCH BUTTER AS I HAD LIVER TO BEGIN WITH.
THIS IS ABOUT A QUARTER-POUND OF DUCK LIVER, THEN ABOUT ONE STICK OF BUTTER.
AND THEN I JUST MELT THE BUTTER OVER THE HEAT THAT REMAINS IN THE PAN.
AT THIS POINT THE DISH IS BRUTALLY HONEST -- YOU CAN SEE WHAT IT IS.
IT'S LIVER AND A LOT OF FAT.
THE SECRET ABOUT MAKING LUXURIOUS FOOD IS TO MAKE PEOPLE FORGET THEY'RE ACTUALLY EATING FOOD THAT IS QUITE, QUITE RICH.
JUST MIX IT TOGETHER -- BLEND IT.
[ BLENDER WHIRRING ] AND NOW THE TWO ARE UNITED, AND YOU CAN NO LONGER SEE HOW MUCH BUTTER THERE IS.
I'M POURING THIS MIXTURE INTO RAMEKINS.
THE DUCK LIVER MOUSSE IS DONE.
ALL YOU REALLY NEED TO DO IS PLACE THEM IN THE REFRIGERATOR AND THEY WILL FIRM UP NICELY AND HAVE THIS VERY LIGHT, VELVETY, SOFT TEXTURE.
IF YOU WANT THEM TO KEEP FOR A WHILE, THEN YOU SHOULD HAVE SOME SORT OF LID ON IT, SOMETHING THAT SEALS IT.
AND YOU CAN USE DIFFERENT THINGS -- YOU CAN USE A FLAVORED JELLY, AND THAT WOULD BE VERY NICE WITH A BLACKCURRANT JELLY OR A RASPBERRY JELLY FOR SOME ACIDITY.
BUT IT'S ALSO COMMON TO USE FAT, MORE FAT.
SO YOU CAN EITHER USE CLARIFIED BUTTER.
WHAT I'M GOING TO DO NOW IS USE MELTED DUCK FAT -- BECAUSE DUCK FAT HAS A SPECIAL QUALITY TO IT, SPECIAL RICHNESS.
I WOULD NEVER CONSIDER USING THAT IN THE DUCK LIVER MOUSSE ITSELF.
THAT WOULD BE TOO HEAVY.
AND AFTER A COUPLE OF HOURS IN THE FRIDGE IT LOOKS LIKE THIS.
GOT A SOLID BUT STILL QUITE SOFT LID.
WILL KEEP IN YOUR FRIDGE FOR SEVERAL DAYS, BUT IT'S BEST, I THINK, ALMOST IMMEDIATELY.
I THINK IT'S VERY NICE TO SERVE IT WITH SOMETHING SWEET.
SO HERE AGAIN YOU COULD USE APRICOT JAM OR PRUNES.
THIS TIME OF YEAR, I'LL GIVE ANYTHING FOR A GOOD PLUM.
YOU CAN FIND ALL THE RECIPES AT OUR WEB SITE -- HALVOR HAS GOT MORE THAN 20 DIFFERENT TYPES OF APPLES HERE ON THE FARM.
AND IN TOTAL THERE ARE SEVERAL HUNDRED, AND THAT'S AN ILLUSTRATION OF WHAT AN APPLE CAN BE.
IT CAN BE ALL SORTS OF THINGS.
WE TEND TO THINK OF APPLES AS BEING GREEN, YELLOW, OR RED; BEING SWEET OR TART.
BUT THEY CAN BE ALL KINDS OF WONDERFUL THINGS.
THEY CAN HAVE A TROPICAL AROMA, THEY CAN BE FRESH TASTING OR THEY CAN BE MEALY; THEY CAN BE BEST FRESH OFF THE TREE.
[ BLOWS WHISTLE ] TELEMARKSKANAL IS A 105-KILOMETER, 65-MILE-LONG RIVER AND CANAL SYSTEM.
AND WHEN IT WAS COMPLETED AT THE END OF THE 19th CENTURY, IT WAS SEEN AS A FEAT IN MODERN ENGINEERING.
WELL, TODAY WE SEE IT MORE AS A SYMBOL OF MODERN MAN'S NAIVE BELIEF THAT NATURE WAS SOMETHING THAT HAD TO BE CONQUERED.
BUT UNLIKE TOO MANY OF THOSE "MAN CONQUERS NATURE" PROJECTS, THERE IS A BEAUTY TO THE TELEMARKSKANAL, AND I FIND IT HARD TO IMAGINE THIS LANDSCAPE WITHOUT THE PORTS AND THE SLUICES AND THE BOATS TRAVERSING THEM.
DUCK IS RICH FOOD, HEAVY FOOD.
DUCK IS FAMOUS FOR ITS WONDERFUL FAT.
YOU CAN TAKE DUCK FAT AND COOK ALMOST ANYTHING IN IT, AND IT WILL TASTE MUCH, MUCH BETTER.
BUT OF COURSE, IT WILL BE MUCH HEAVIER.
I'M GOING TO GO IN THE OTHER DIRECTION -- I'M GOING TO MAKE A LIGHT, FRESH TASTING SALAD WITH DUCK EGG AND DUCK HEARTS.
OF COURSE A GOOD SALAD HINGES ON THE LETTUCE.
I TRY TO FIND AS MANY TYPES OF LETTUCE AS POSSIBLE.
THEN, OF COURSE, COMES THE DRESSING.
I'M USING MUSTARD AS A FOUNDATION.
HALF A TEASPOON OF FINE DIJON STYLE MUSTARD.
SLIGHTLY GRAINY MUSTARD, AS WELL.
ABOUT HALF A TEASPOON OF EACH.
APPLE CIDER VINEGAR.
AND THEN A QUITE NEUTRAL OIL -- THIS IS A COMBINATION OF SUNFLOWER OIL AND RAPESEED OIL.
TO THIS I'M ADDING FINELY CHOPPED ONION, SO THAT YOU GET SMALL CHUNKS, SMALL EXPLOSIONS OF ONION.
LIKEWISE WITH SMALL CHUNKS OF APPLE.
SO YOU HAVE THESE OTHER POCKETS OF SWEETNESS, AS WELL, IN THE SALAD.
AND I'M ADDING THIS TO THE LETTUCE... AND MIXING WELL.
SAID THAT YOU HAVE TO MIX 16 TIMES IN ORDER FOR EVERY LITTLE LEAF TO BE COVERED IN DRESSING.
I'VE GOT SOME BEAUTIFUL RED SPRING ONIONS THAT I JUST HALVE LENGTHWISE.
SOME WONDERFUL, BUTTERY FAVA BEANS.
AND SOME PEAS.
THESE ARE HALFWAY BETWEEN SUGAR SNAP PEAS AND NORMAL EATING PEAS.
AND I'VE JUST LIGHTLY BLANCHED THEM.
AND OF COURSE I WANT THIS TO BE A COLORFUL SALAD, BEAUTIFUL SALAD, AS WELL AS A TASTY SALAD, SO I'M ADDING EDIBLE FLOWERS.
MARIGOLD... MY FAVORITE EDIBLE FLOWER IS NASTURTIUM.
THEY'VE GOT THIS KIND OF PEPPERY, ALMOST CURRY-LIKE FLAVOR, AND INSIDE HERE YOU'VE GOT A DROP OF NECTSO THERE'S A HINT OF SWEETNESS, AS WELL.
AND SOME EDIBLE HERB FLOWERS.
THIS IS BORAGE, WHICH HAS A SORT OF CUCUMBERISH TASTE.
FLOWERING MARJORAM -- I JUST PICK OFF THE FLOWERS.
THEN IT'S THE KING OF EDIBLE FLOWERS, NAMELY THE ZUCCHINI FLOWER.
AND I JUST CUT IT IN TWO, LENGTHWISE...
SO THAT YOU CAN SEE ITS INTERIOR.
AND THEN TO THE DUCK.
I'M USING DUCK EGGS, AND THEY ARE BIG AND THEY ARE FULL OF FLAVOR AND THEY NEED TO COOK FOR AT LEAST EIGHT MINUTES.
THEY CAN BE QUITE TRICKY TO PEEL, BECAUSE THEY'VE GOT AN EXTRA MEMBRANE ON THE INSIDE.
IF YOU JUST SMASH THEM LIKE I'VE DONE, THEN IT'S PRETTY STRAIGHTFORWARD.
FOR THE PART OF THE DUCK THAT'S CLOSEST TO MY HEART, NAMELY, ITS HEART.
DUCK HEART IS NOT USED THAT MUCH IN COOKING, WHICH IS A SHAME BECAUSE IT'S A TRUE DELICACY.
IT IS TENDER AND FLAVORFUL, SOMEWHERE BETWEEN DUCK LIVER AND DUCK BREAST.
THERE'S NOTHING TO COOKING DUCK HEARTS, YOU JUST FRY THEM WITH SOME ONIONS OVER QUITE HIGH HEAT AND ADD A GENEROUS AMOUNT OF SALT AND PEPPER.
AND THIS IS IT.
YOU CAN FIND ALL THE RECIPES AT OUR WEB SITE -- [ QUACKING ] DOMESTICATED DUCKS ARE TRUSTFUL AND GREEDY, BORDERING ON THE PLAIN IDIOTIC.
WILD DUCKS, ON THE OTHER HAND, ARE SKEPTICAL BORDERING ON THE PARANOID.
THEY DON'T LIKE SOUNDS, THEY DON'T LIKE MOVEMENTS, AND THEY ARE TERRIFIED OF CITY CLOTHING.
WHEN YOU GO DUCK HUNTING, YOU'VE GOT TO HAVE A LOT OF PATIENCE AND DON'T EXPECT A LOT OF MEAT PER HOUR YOU INVEST.
BUT THESE SMALL, WILD DUCKS HAVE A SPECIAL QUALITY TO THEM THAT MAKES IT ALL WORTHWHILE.
IT'S NOT JUST THE GAME IN THIS AREA THAT'S FABULOUS, THERE'S ALSO A LOT OF FISH.
AND IN THIS NEXT DISH I'M GOING TO COMBINE LOCAL TROUT WITH A HEAVILY REDUCED DUCK STOCK.
IT'S GOING TO BE A SAUCE, THE ESSENCE OF WILD DUCK.
HERE I'VE GOT TWO LOVELY TROUT FILLET FROM RIVER TROUT.
YOU CAN ALSO USE SALMON.
AND I'M GOING TO FLAVOR THEM WITH SPICES -- MAINLY SWEET AND MILD SPICES.
HERE I'VE GOT DILL SEED.
CORIANDER.
AND FOR A LITTLE BIT OF PUNCH, I'M USING MUSTARD SEED.
AND WHEN I'VE GOT A SE MIXTURE LIKE THIS, THEN I'M MIXING IN A LITTLE BIT OF SUGAR AND SOME FLAKY SEA SALT.
AND WHAT WILL HAPPEN IS THAT, WHEN I BROIL THE FISH, THE SUGARS WILL CARAMELIZE AND YOU'LL GET A NICE COATING ON THE TROUT.
ONCE YOU SPRINKLE THIS MIXTURE OVER THE FISH, IT STARTS DRAWING OUT MOISTURE.
WE DON'T REALLY WANT THAT TO HAPPEN, SO IT'S GOT TO GO IN THE OVEN IMMEDIATELY.
AFTER ONLY FIVE MINUTES IN A REALLY HOT OVEN, THE FISH IS DONE.
AND AS YOU CAN SEE, THE SUGARS HAVE CARAMELIZED, AND SOME OF THE SPICES HAVE EVEN STARTED TO BURN.
AND THE GOOD THING ABOUT THAT IS THAT THE PIECES OF SPICES THAT HAVEN'T BURNED WILL STILL TASTE OF DILL, OF CORIANDER, OF MUSTARD.
BUT THOSE WHO HAVE BEEN CHARRED WILL HAVE VARIOUS DEGREES OF PEPPERINESS, A SORT OF RAISIN FLAVOR.
SO DIFFERENT FLAVORS DEVELOP, AND IT MAKES FOR A MORE INTERESTING EATING EXPERIENCE.
AND THEN I'VE TAKEN SOME CHANTERELLES AND FRIED THEM AND ADDED A LITTLE BIT OF CHIVES.
BUT THE REAL MAGIC IS IN THIS SAUCE.
IT IS SIMPLY DUCK STOCK.
AND THEN THE STOCK HAS BEEN REDUCED AND REDUCED UNTIL LESS THAN HALF A CUP, LESS THAN A DECILITER IS LEFT.
AND THE TEXTURE IS THICK AND SYRUPY.
AND I HAVEN'T ADDED ANY OTHER FLAVORS, SO THERE'S NOTHING HERE APART FROM A LITTLE BIT OF SAL THE REST IS JUST THE ESSENCE OF THE FOREST.
THE ONLY THING YOU'VE GOT TO MAKE SURE IS NOT TO USE TOO MUCH OF THE SAUCE.
IT WILL BE TOO OVERPOWERING.
AND DUCK STOCK OR DUCK SAUCE IS REALLY GOOD WITH A LOT OF FISH.
IT CAN BE VERY NICE WITH SEA BASS OR COD OR SALMON.
I THINK IT'S PARTICULARLY NICE WITH TROUT.
WE'VE USED LIVER, EGG, HEART, STOCK.
WELL, THERE'S MORE TO THE DUCK, ISN'T IT?
DUCK BREAST AND DUCK LEGS.
THOSE ARE THE TWO MOST COMMON CUTS, AND I'M GOING TO USE THEM BOTH IN TODAY'S LAST DISH.
BUT THE TWO DEMAND COMPLETELY DIFFERENT TREATMENT.
WHEN IT COMES TO THE DUCK BREAST YOU'VE GOT TO BE CAREFUL NOT TO OVERCOOK THEM.
OTHERWISE THEY BECOME INCREDIBLY TOUGH AND DRY.
AND WITH THE LEGS IT'S THE OTHER WAY AROUND -- IF YOU DON'T COOK THEM ENOUGH THEY WILL BE INCREDIBLY TOUGH AND CHEWY.
SO WE'LL START OFF WITH THE LEGS.
I'M GOING TO COOK THEM IN AN APPLE BRINE.
I'VE GOT ONE LITER, ABOUT ONE QUART OF APPLE JUICE.
TO WHICH I'M ADDING 70 GRAMS, THAT'S ABOUT 3.5 TO 4 TABLESPOONS OF SALT.
YOU DON'T HAVE TO USE FANCY SALT, JUST USE ANY REGULAR PURE SALT.
STIR TO DISSOLVE.
AND THEN I'LL FLAVOR THE BRINE WITH ONE SPRIG OF ROSEMARY... ONE STAR ANISE... AND CLOVES.
I'LL ONLY USE...
I'LL GO FOR FOUR.
THEN I'LL ADD THE LEGS.
AND I'M ADDING THE DUCK LEGS.
MAKE SURE THAT THEY'RE MORE OR LESS COVERED, AND BRING THE POT TO A BOIL.
AND THEN JUST PLACE THE POT IN THE OVEN AT 100° CENTIGRADE.
THAT'S 212°, YOU CAN SAY 210° FAHRENHEIT.
AND AT THAT TEMPERATURE IT COOKS VERY, VERY GENTLY.
AND AFTER THREE HOURS IT IS STILL FIRM...
BUT INCREDIBLY TENDER AND JUICY.
NOW THIS MEAT IS ALMOST LIKE DUCK CONFIT, BUT WHEREAS THE DUCK CONFIT IS COOKED IN FAT, HERE YOU'VE GOT A BIT MORE FRESHNESS.
WHAT I'M GOING TO DO IS JUST HEAT IT ON THE GRILL JUST BEFORE SERVING.
WHEN IT COMES TO THE DUCK BREAST, WHAT I'LL DO IS CUT A KIND OF CRISS-CROSS PATTERN IN THE FATTY SKIN.
YOU'VE GOT TO BE QUITE CAREFUL.
YOU'VE GOT TO USE A SHARP KNIFE, BUT DON'T USE TOO MUCH FORCE.
YOU DON'T WANT ANY FLESH WOUNDS HERE.
AND I'LL SEASON THE DUCK BREAST WITH SALT... AND PEPPER FROM A REALLY BIG PEPPER MILL.
AND I'LL PLACE THE DUCK BREAST MEAT SIDE DOWN ON A SPRIG OF ROSEMARY.
THIS ROSEMARY WILL BE CHARRED, SOMETIMES BEYOND RECOGNITION, BUT IT WILL LEND A NICE FLAVOR TO THE MEAT.
IT SMELLS FANTASTIC.
ROSEMARY IS THE PERFUME OF THE KITCHEN.
I'M GOING TO SERVE THE DUCK BREAST WITH GRILLED APPLES.
I'VE GOT VARIOUS DIFFERENT TYPES OF APPLES HERE.
I'M GOING TO GO FOR THE SWEET VARIETY CALLED SAL APPLE, WHICH IS AN OLD VARIETY.
THEY WILL CARAMELIZE NICELY WHEN THEY'RE GRILLED.
I PLACE THEM A LITTLE BIT ON THE OUTSKIRTS WHERE IT'S NOT TOO HOT, SO THEY WON'T BURN.
I'LL USE ANOTHER VARIETY, WHICH IS A LITTLE MORE TART -- JULY RED, WHICH, OF COURSE, ISN'T RIPE IN NORWAY IN JULY, BUT THAT'S ITS NAME ANYWAY.
AND I'M GOING TO ADD ANOTHER LAYER OF APPLE FLAVOR AS WELL, NAMELY THAT FROM APPLE WOOD.
AND WHEN YOU ADD THIS TO THE BURNING EMBERS, IT WILL ADD A NICE RICH, AROMATIC, ALMOST PERFUMED FLAVOR, AS WELL.
NOW THE DUCK BREASTS ARE DONE.
IF YOU HAVE A MEAT THERMOMETER, THEN THE INTERNAL TEMPERATURE THAT YOU SHOULD AIM FOR IS 60° CENTIGRADE, 140° FAHRENHEIT.
AND IT'S IMPORTANT TO LET THE BREAST REST FOR A FEW MINUTES IN ORDER FOR THE JUICES TO SETTLE.
SO 10 TO 15 MINUTES IS GOOD.
MEANWHILE, I'LL HEAT THE DUCK LEGS ON THE GRILL.
AND THEY ARE REALLY COOKED THROUGH, SO YOU DON'T REALLY HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT THE COOKING ASPECT.
THE POINT IS JUST TO HEAT THEM A BIT AND TO MAKE THE SKIN A LITTLE BIT CRISPY.
THESE APPLES ARE NOW QUITE LIGHT AND CARAMELIZED ON THE SURFACE.
AND THIS IS IT.
ROUGH AND SIMPLE, SWEET AND SAVORY, DUCK AND APPLE.
REMEMBER THAT YOU CAN FIND ALL THE RECIPES AT OUR WEB SITE -- >> FOR MORE INSPIRATION ABOUT SCANDINAVIAN DESTINATIONS AND FOOD, VISIT OUR WEB SITE -- THIS PROGRAM IS FUNDED BY THE FOLLOWING... NORWEGIAN SALMON IS OCEAN-FARMED BY CRAFTSMEN, BLENDING TRADITION WITH TECHNOLOGY.
[ LAUGHTER, HEARTBEAT, MUSIC ] Woman: CREATED BY ME, A MOM OF THREE, TO MAKE MOBILE KIDS SAFER AND YOUR LIFE EASIER.
♪

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