♪♪ KIRA: COMING UP NEXT ON "ISLANDS WITHOUT CARS," WE GO ISLAND HOPPING IN THE LAND OF THE VIKINGS JUST OFF OF SWEDEN'S SOUTHWESTERN COASTLINE.

SO JOIN US AS WE EXPERIENCE A MIDSUMMER SUN THAT ALMOST NEVER SETS, ATTEND A PARTY CELEBRATING THAT FACT, AND MEET THE PEOPLE WHO DEFINE SWEDISH ISLAND CULTURE AND HOSPITALITY.

EW!

[LAUGHS] ♪♪ ♪♪ KIRA: HI, I'M KIRA COOK, AND IT'S MY GREAT PLEASURE TO BE YOUR GUIDE AS WE SEARCH FOR ISLANDS LOST IN TIME, PLACES WHERE CARS ARE RESTRICTED, AND WHOSE INHABITANTS WOULDN'T HAVE IT ANY OTHER WAY.

SO COME WITH ME ON A JOURNEY THAT YOU WON'T FORGET.

♪♪ ♪♪ KIRA: JUST OFF OF SWEDEN'S SOUTHWESTERN COASTLINE ARE A SERIES OF SMALL ISLANDS DOTTING THE NORTH SEA.

WE'RE EXPLORING THREE OF THEM: MARSTRANDSÖN, STYRSÖ, AND VRÅNGÖ.

A LITTLE HISTORY, 10,000 YEARS AGO, THE ICE MELTED, AND ALL THESE ISLANDS EMERGED.

NOW WE'RE HERE ON TOP OF THE BURIAL GROUNDS OF THE BRONZE AGE INHABITANTS OF THIS ISLAND.

AND FOR A LITTLE BIT OF PERSPECTIVE, NEW YORK CITY IS JUST 4,000 MILES BEHIND ME.

♪♪ KIRA: TO GET HERE, WE FLEW INTO COPENHAGEN, CROSSED THE 10-MILE BRIDGE THAT CONNECTS DENMARK TO SWEDEN, AND DROVE ANOTHER THREE HOURS TO THE VILLAGE OF MARSTRAND.

HALF OF MARSTRAND IS LOCATED ON THE ISLAND OF KOÖN, WHERE WE ARE STAYING, AND THE OTHER HALF, OUR REAL DESTINATION, IS LOCATED ON THE ISLAND OF MARSTRANDSÖN.

♪♪ KIRA: TO GET TO THE ISLAND, WE TOOK THE FOUR-MINUTE FERRY RIDE ON THE LASSE-MAJA WHERE WE STARTED OUR ADVENTURE WITH A HISTORY LESSON.

PUTTE: IT WAS LIKE THE WILD WEST OUT HERE, AND THERE WERE A LOT OF CRIMINALS WHO CAME HERE BECAUSE THEY GOT AMNESTY FOR CERTAIN CRIMES.

BUT THE WORST CRIMINAL, OR THE MOST FAMOUS ONE, HE CAME HERE 1813.

HIS NAME WAS LASSE-MAJA.

VERY FAMOUS IN HIS OWN EYES BECAUSE HE WAS GREAT CRIMINAL, BUT HE GOT CAUGHT ALL THE TIME.

BUT HE WAS FAMOUS AND POPULAR AMONG COMMON PEOPLE BECAUSE HE WAS A CROSS-DRESSER.

♪♪ KIRA: AS THE STORY GOES, LASSE-MAJA WAS SUCH A CONVINCING CROSS-DRESSER -- [WHISTLING] KIRA: -- THAT THREE DIFFERENT SUITORS PROPOSED MARRIAGE, AND HE ACCEPTED ALL THREE.

ALAS, LASSE-MAJA WAS CAUGHT IN 1813 AFTER STEALING SILVER FROM THE CHURCH AND SENTENCED TO LIFE IMPRISONMENT -- [PRISON DOOR CLOSING] KIRA: -- IN THE FORT TURNED PRISON, WHICH IS NOW A RUIN HERE ON MARSTRAND.

HE BEHAVED IN SUCH A COMMENDABLE MANNER THAT HE BECAME SOMETHING OF AN INCARCERATED SOCIALITE.

IN 1839, HE WAS PARDONED AND RELEASED BY SWEDEN'S KING KARL XIV.

[CHEERING] [INSTRUMENT PLAYING] KIRA: WHY IS THE FERRY NAMED AFTER THIS CRIMINAL?

PUTTE: A LOT OF THINGS ON THE ISLAND ARE NAMED AFTER HIM: LASSE-MAJA RESTAURANT, MY COMPANY, GUIDED TOURS, AND ALSO THE FERRY BOAT BECAUSE IT TRIES TO GO AWAY, BUT ALWAYS COMES BACK.

KIRA: HEY.

WOMAN #1: HEY.

KIRA: [GREETS IN SWEDISH] WOMAN #1: [GREETS IN SWEDISH] KIRA: [SPEAKING IN SWEDISH] SO WE'D LIKE SOME PASTRIES.

PUTTE: YES.

KIRA: THIS IS YOUR FAVORITE PASTRY PLACE?

PUTTE: YEAH, IT IS.

IT IS.

KIRA: WHAT'S YOUR FAVORITE ONE?

PUTTE: IT'S THE CINNAMON BUN.

KIRA: OOH, CINNAMON BUN.

PUTTE: YEAH, ON THE BOTTOM.

KIRA: OK. HOW DO YOU SAY THAT IN SWEDISH?

PUTTE: KANELBULLAR.

KIRA: KANELBULLAR.

THERE'S A SAYING THAT IF YOU HAVE NOT BEEN TO BERG'S KONDITORI, YOU HAVE NOT BEEN TO MARSTRAND.

AND AS A RESPONSIBLE TOUR GUIDE AND NEW FRIEND, PUTTE COULD JUST NOT LET THAT HAPPEN.

TRUE ENOUGH, THIS STUFF IS ♪ AMAZING, ♪ AND I WILL NEVER SEE CINNAMON BUNS THE SAME WAY AGAIN.

[LAUGHTER] KIRA: MMM.

MMM.

♪♪ ♪♪ KIRA: NOW WE'RE HEADING TO THE STRANDVERKET ART MUSEUM, HOUSED IN AN OLD FORT ON THE HARBOR.

[KNOCKING ON DOOR] GRETA: HI.

KIRA: HI!

GRETA: WELCOME.

WELCOME TO STRANDVERKET... KIRA: THANK YOU SO MUCH.

NICE TO MEET YOU.

I'M KIRA.

OH WOW.

TO CHECK OUT THEIR PERMANENT COLLECTION OF WORLD CLASS SCULPTURES AS WELL AS A TRIBUTE EXHIBITION TO ONE OF THE GREATEST ACTRESSES OF ALL TIME, WHO WAS, NOTABLY, SWEDISH.

BERGMAN.

GRETA: INGRID BERGMAN.

THE RISE AND FALL OF INGRID BERGMAN.

KIRA: YES.

GRETA: AND RISE.

KIRA: YES.

A RISK TAKER WHOSE INFLUENCE ENDURES AS A ROLE MODEL FOR OUR TIME.

GRETA: THIS IS "NOTORIOUS."

KIRA: "NOTORIOUS," OK. GRETA: YEAH, AND IT'S CALLED THE LONGEST FILM KISS EVER.

IN THE US, THERE WERE THESE CENSORSHIP RULES ABOUT HOW LONG YOU'RE ALLOWED TO KISS SOMEBODY ON FILM, AND IT WAS 3 SECONDS.

AND THAT'S A HITCHCOCK MOVIE, AND HE OMITTED THAT.

HE FOUND A WAY AROUND THAT.

SO THEY KISSED FOR THREE SECONDS, AND THEN THEY SAID HELLO, AND THEN KISSED AGAIN -- KIRA: THAT'S WHY THEY KEEP STOPPING.

GRETA: YEAH, THAT'S WHY THEY KEEP TALKING AND SAYING LITTLE WORDS AND THEN CONTINUE KISSING.

KIRA: IN ALL THE OLD MOVIES WHERE THEY STOP AND PULL AWAY, THAT MAKES SENSE.

GRETA: YEAH, THAT'S WHY.

KIRA: WHEN THE WORLD LEARNED OF BERGMAN'S AFFAIR WITH ITALIAN FILMMAKER ROBERTO ROSSELLINI, IT BECAME THE CHEATING SCANDAL OF THE DAY AND IN THE UNITED STATES, IN PARTICULAR.

HER IMAGE AS JOAN OF ARC OR A NUN IN "THE BELLS OF ST. MARY'S" WAS QUICKLY TRANSFORMED.

GRETA: JUST IMAGINE WHAT IT WAS LIKE IF YOU WEREN'T ALLOWED TO KISS, AND YOU GO TO ITALY JUST TO FILM, BUT YOU FALL IN LOVE WITH THIS ITALIAN DIRECTOR AND YOU GET KNOCKED UP REALLY FAST.

IT WAS A HUGE SCANDAL.

IN THE US SENATE, THEY CONDEMNED HER.

KIRA: REALLY?

GRETA: YEAH.

AND SHE ALSO WRITES THAT PROBABLY IT WAS BECAUSE SHE WAS THIS FOREIGN WOMAN COMING TO THE STATES, THEY FEEL THAT THEY GAVE HER SHELTER AND EVERYTHING DURING WORLD WAR II, AND THEY LET HER HAVE A CAREER THERE AND EVERYTHING, AND NOW SHE TURNED HER BACK ON THE STATES.

WE'RE TALKING ABOUT WHEN SHE WAS A NUN BEFORE, AND PEOPLE WENT INTO NUNNERY BECAUSE OF HER, AND NOW ALL OF THE SUDDEN, SHE'S NOT A NUN ANYMORE, SHE'S THIS WHORE, BASICALLY.

KIRA: RIGHT.

GRETA: AND SHE EVEN SAID IN ONE OF HER QUOTES, SHE SAID THAT I'VE GONE FROM SAINT TO WHORE AND BACK TO SAINT IN JUST A LIFETIME.

SO IT'S REALLY -- KIRA: GOODNESS.

GRETA: YEAH, SHE'S NOT JUST A STAR OF SOME EARLIER PREVIOUS ERA.

SHE REALLY HAS SOMETHING TO TELL WOMEN OF TODAY.

KIRA: FASCINATING.

NO REGRETS.

GRETA: NO REGRETS.

[LAUGHS] ♪♪ KIRA: NOBODY DOES FISH AND SEAFOOD QUITE LIKE SCANDINAVIANS.

I'M HEADED TO ARVIDSON'S FISK FISH TRUCK, A FOURTH GENERATION BUSINESS, LOCATED ON THE DOCK.

HEY.

[GREETS IN SWEDISH] MAN #1: [SPEAKING IN SWEDISH] KIRA: YOU ARE ARVIDSON'S?

MAN #1: ARVIDSON'S, YEAH.

KIRA: I HEARD THAT YOU ARE THE BEST FISH AND CHIPS IN TOWN.

MAN #1: DEFINITELY.

WELL, THERE'S A FEW PLACES AROUND THE ISLAND, BUT THE BEST IS RIGHT HERE.

KIRA: YEAH, OK, OK. LARS: IT'S MY GRANDFATHER'S GRANDFATHER.

HE COMES FROM TØNSBERG IN NORWAY 1910 TO MARSTRAND.

SO I'M THE FOURTH GENERATION OF FISH STORE.

YES, AND WE ADDED THIS BIG FACTORY OVER HERE THAT MADE PICKLED HERRING, BUT WE SOLD IT IN '88, SO NOW WE JUST HAVE THIS LEFT.

KIRA: FROM FRESHLY CAUGHT FISH AND SHELLFISH TO PICKLED HERRING, CURED SALMON, AND FISH ROE, THE BOUNTIES COMING OUT OF THE COLD, CLEAN WATERS THAT SURROUND THESE ISLANDS ARE PRETTY HARD TO MATCH.

MAN #1: THERE YOU GO.

KIRA: OH, THANK YOU.

TACK-TACK.

THAT'S BEAUTIFUL.

HOW MANY PIECES OF FISH?

MAN #1: TWO.

KIRA: TWO, AND THEN THE REST ARE CHIPS?

MAN #1: YEAH.

KIRA: WITH REMOULADE THAT YOU MADE THIS MORNING.

GREAT.

[LAUGHS] KIRA: MMM!

OH YEAH.

THAT'S SO GOOD.

FILLED WITH FISH AND CHIPS AND THINKING ABOUT SCANDALS AND SCOUNDRELS, IS THERE A BETTER WAY TO END OUR FIRST DAY, OR ANY DAY, THAN IN A SWEDISH SPA?

♪♪ KIRA: TODAY IS THE FAMOUS MIDSUMMER CELEBRATION WHICH, TO MANY SWEDES, IS THE MOST IMPORTANT HOLIDAY IN SWEDEN.

A HUGE FAMILY AFFAIR, IT CONSISTS OF RAISING AND DANCING AROUND A MAYPOLE DECORATED WITH FLOWERS AND GREENERY, A RITUAL WHICH WAS ONCE THOUGHT TO BRING GOOD FORTUNE AND HEALTH TO PEOPLE AND LIVESTOCK, A TRADITION THAT PROBABLY DATES TO PRE-CHRISTIAN TIMES AS A PHALLIC FERTILITY SYMBOL AS WELL.

SO WE CAME TO VISIT THE MAYPOLE AND WATCH IT BECOME DECORATED TO FIND OUT THAT AMERICANS WERE HELPING TO DECORATE IT, AMONG WHICH WAS OUR AMBASSADOR TO SWEDEN.

MARK: HELLO, KIRA.

KIRA: HELLO.

MARK: I'M MARK BRZEZINSKI, UNITED STATES AMBASSADOR TO SWEDEN FOR THE LAST 3 1/2 YEARS.

THIS IS MY WIFE NATALIA.

NATALIA: NICE TO MEET YOU, FELLOW CHICAGOAN.

YES.

MARK: NICE TO SEE YOU.

VÄLKOMMEN, AS THEY SAY IN SWEDEN.

KIRA: TACK-TACK.

[SPEAKING IN SWEDISH] MARK: WE'VE JUST TAKEN A WALK AROUND THIS BEAUTIFUL ISLAND, AND KIRA, I THINK THAT YOU PROBABLY KNOW THIS BECAUSE YOU'RE HERE, YOU CANNOT KNOW SWEDEN UNLESS YOU SEE IT FROM THE WATER.

THIS IS A SEAGOING, MARITIME COUNTRY.

THE WATER IS PART OF LIFE HERE.

IN THE LAST 20 YEARS, SWEDEN HAS GROWN ITS ECONOMY BY 40% WHILE REDUCING CARBON OUTPUT BY 20%.

SO IT'S GROWN ITS ECONOMY WHILE REDUCING POLLUTION.

THAT'S WHAT WE, THE AMERICANS, WANT TO DO.

IT'S A GOOD PLACE TO STUDY IT.

AND AROUND A MAYPOLE, IT'S A GREAT THING TO CELEBRATE AS WELL.

KIRA: FANTASTIC.

HOPEFULLY AN INSPIRATION TO HOW WE CAN LIVE, HOW WE CAN CHANGE.

NATALIA: ABSOLUTELY.

ONE OF THE REASONS THEY SAY SWEDES ARE SO ENVIRONMENTAL IS THERE'S ACTUALLY A COMMUNITY PURPOSE AROUND THE LAND.

YOU CAN, AS A PUBLIC CITIZEN, CAMP ANYWHERE.

YOU CAN CAMP IN SOMEONE'S YARD YOU CAN CAMP NEXT DOOR.

THE LAND IS FOR ALL USE.

WHAT IS THAT TERM CALLED?

MARK: ALLEMANSRÄTTEN.

NATALIA: ALLEMANSRÄTTEN MEANS EVERY MAN'S RIGHT.

KIRA: WHOA!

NATALIA: WE'RE SAYING IT WRONG.

BUT A LOT OF PEOPLE TELL ME THAT THAT IS WHY PEOPLE TAKE CARE OF THE LAND.

THERE'S A COMMUNITY AROUND IT.

KIRA: RIGHT, THERE'S A SENSE OF OWNERSHIP THAT EVERYONE HAS.

IT'S NOT GOVERNMENT LAND OR -- NATALIA: THE COMMUNITY IS PUTTING TOGETHER ALL OF THESE WREATHS -- IT'S SOMETHING REALLY SPECIAL THAT WE AS AMERICANS REALLY LOVE HERE AND WANT TO BRING BACK, I THINK.

SO IF YOU HAVE TOO MANY SCHNAPPS TONIGHT, YOU CAN CAMP OUT ANYWHERE YOU WANT.

KIRA: OH GREAT.

GOOD TO KNOW.

WE CAN JUST PASS OUT ANYWHERE.

NATALIA: YOU CAN COME ON OUR FRONT LAWN.

WE'LL LET YOU IN.

KIRA: OK. ♪♪ MAN #2: [YELLS] [CHEERING] ♪♪ [CHEERING AND APPLAUSE] KIRA: THEY'RE GOING TO TRANSLATE THE SONG FOR US.

[SINGING IN SWEDISH] WOMAN #2: NOW THEY'RE SINGING ABOUT SMALL PIGS.

THEY'RE REALLY FUN TO LOOK AT.

AND THEY HAVE CUTE -- KIRA: TAILS.

MAN #3: EARS.

WOMAN #3: THEY HAVE CUTE EARS AND TAILS.

AND THEN THEY'RE GOING OINK, OINK, OINK, OINK.

KIRA: [LAUGHS] ♪ WOMAN #3: OINK, OINK, OINK.

♪ NO EARS, NO EARS, NO EARS.

[SINGING CONTINUES] ♪ WOMAN #3: AND THEN ♪ ♪ THEY GO RIBBIT, RIBBIT.

♪ [SINGING CONTINUES] KIRA: YAY!

[APPLAUSE] KIRA: THANK YOU.

[APPLAUSE] ♪♪ [SINGING IN SWEDISH] KIRA: AND THE NIGHT IS YOUNG.

HOUSE PARTIES AND SCHNAPPS DRINKING WILL GO ON AND ON IN THIS DISORIENTING DAYLIGHT.

IT'S MAGIC, THE WATER, THE SKY, THE ALMOST CONSTANT DAYLIGHT.

UNSPOILED NATURE AND EVEN MORE UNSPOILED PEOPLE.

MARSTRANDSÖN AND MARSTRAND OFFERED EXPERIENCES OF VÄLKOMMEN THAT I'LL NEVER FORGET.

♪♪ ♪♪ KIRA: ISLAND NUMBER TWO.

OUR NEXT ISLAND IS STYRSÖ, THE LARGEST OF THE SOUTHERN ISLANDS.

WITH A POPULATION OF 1,400 INHABITANTS, IT'S CONSIDERED THE MAIN ISLAND.

♪♪ [DOOR UNLOCKING] KIRA: FIRST TIME IN A SWEDISH PENSION.

HERE WE GO.

OOH!

HOW CHARMING!

AND SWEDISH.

BINOCULARS -- I CAN SPY ON EVERYONE.

♪♪ KIRA: OH YEAH, SWANS, A WHOLE FAMILY OF THEM.

SO FAR, LOVING STYRSÖ.

♪♪ KIRA: WE'RE STAYING AT THE STYRSÖ SKÄRET GUEST HOUSE, WHICH HAS THE APPEARANCE AS WELL AS THE PACE OF ANOTHER CENTURY.

WHAT DO PEOPLE COME TO DO IN STYRSÖ?

OLA: PEOPLE COME HERE TO RELAX AND ENJOY AND BE BY THEMSELVES.

IT'S NOT A LOT OF PEOPLE LIVING HERE OR COMING HERE IN THE SUMMER.

IT'S QUITE A BIG PLACE, AND IT'S NOT OVERCROWDED, SO YOU CAN BE BY YOURSELF ALL DAY.

AND WE DON'T HAVE ANY CARS, AND I DON'T WANT ANY CARS.

WE HAVE GOLF CARTS AND MOPEDS AND BICYCLES.

ON SOME OF THE ISLANDS, YOU'RE NOT ALLOWED TO BICYCLE, JUST WALKING.

KIRA: REALLY?

OLA: YEAH.

KIRA: SO PEOPLE HAVE TOLD US THAT SWEDES ARE LIKE COCONUTS, HARD ON THE OUTSIDE AND VERY SOFT AND SWEET ON THE INSIDE.

WOULD YOU SAY THAT'S TRUE?

OLA: I THINK SO.

WHAT'S UNIQUE HERE IN SWEDEN, IT'S THE SUMMERTIME, YOU OPEN UP, YOU SPEAK TO EVERYONE, EVERY FOREIGNER YOU MEET IS EXCITING, AND YOU SPEAK TO YOUR NEIGHBORS, YOU'LL BE OUTSIDE ALL DAY.

BUT IN THE WINTER, YOU CLOSE YOUR DOOR, YOU'RE DAMP AND COLD AND DARK, SO YOU DON'T ALWAYS SAY HELLO TO YOUR NEIGHBORS.

YOU DON'T SEE THEM FOR A FEW MONTHS.

KIRA: WOW.

OLA: I THINK WE NEED MORE SUN ACTUALLY, BUT IT'S NICE LIVING HERE.

KIRA: YEAH.

[LAUGHS] OLA AND HIS WIFE YLVA OFFER A CAREFULLY CURATED SETTING AND OLD WORLD COMFORT.

THIS GUEST HOUSE FEATURES A COZY SITTING ROOM, 13 BEDROOMS, AND AMAZING VIEWS OF THE SEA.

CAN I HELP YOU?

HI!

ERIK: YEAH, CAN YOU HELP ME?

CAN YOU TAKE ONE?

KIRA: YES, I'LL TAKE ONE.

ERIK: THANK YOU.

KIRA: HEAVY FISH.

[LAUGHS] THEIR CHEF, ERIK, SOURCES LOCAL, ORGANIC INGREDIENTS FOR HIS EXCLUSIVE CREATIONS.

ALL RIGHT.

WHAT ARE WE PICKING?

ERIK: WE'RE GOING TO PICK SOME GARDEN CRESS, I THINK.

KIRA: OK. ERIK: THIS HASN'T REALLY COME UP YET.

ONE FLOWER THERE.

KIRA: BEAUTIFUL.

ERIK: YEAH, IT'S GOING TO BE A LOT OF FLOWERS HERE AS WELL IN THE TIME.

KIRA: AND THEY'RE EDIBLE?

ERIK: YEAH, EVERYTHING IS EDIBLE, EVERYTHING WE HAVE HERE.

KIRA: LOVELY.

CAN YOU EAT THESE RAW?

ERIK: YEAH.

KIRA: ARE THEY GOOD?

ERIK: YEAH, IT'S A BIT OF PEPPERY OR SOMETHING LIKE THAT.

[LAUGHS] KIRA: IT'S NOT CAKE.

ERIK: IT'S NOT CAKE, YEAH.

KIRA: [LAUGHS] ERIK: HERE IS ONLY GOING TO BE FLOWERS SOON.

KIRA: THIS IS ALL EDIBLE FLOWERS.

ERIK: AND THEN WE HAVE SOME MINT HERE.

KIRA: MINT?

OK, CAN I HAVE A -- FRESHEN BY BREATH?

ERIK: YEAH.

KIRA: OK, WHAT DO WE HAVE HERE?

ERIK: THIS IS ACTUALLY PINEAPPLE SAGE.

IT'S VERY GOOD.

YOU SHOULD TRY IT.

YOU CAN REALLY SMELL THE PINEAPPLE ACTUALLY.

KIRA: OH YEAH.

WOW, IT'S SO SWEET CITRUS.

ERIK: YEAH, IT'S REALLY GOOD.

IT ACTUALLY TASTES A BIT LIKE THAT AS WELL.

KIRA: NOT ONLY DOES THIS HERB GARDEN SMELL INCREDIBLE, BUT IT SMELLS AMAZING ALL OVER THE ISLAND.

IT'S SO FRESH, IT'S SO CLEAN, THE AIR IS SO GOOD.

HAVE TO COME HERE FOR YOURSELF.

GOOD IDEA.

ERIK: IF YOU WANT, YOU CAN CHOP SOME DILL OR SOMETHING JUST TO PLATE -- KIRA: I WOULD LOVE TO CHOP, YES.

ERIK: -- FOR THE FINISH.

KIRA: TELL ME ABOUT YOUR COOKING BACKGROUND.

ERIK: I'VE BEEN A CHEF NOW FOR FIVE YEARS, I THINK.

MANY CHEFS IN SWEDEN ARE VERY HUMBLE AND VERY NICE PEOPLE, AND WE LIKE TO LEARN OTHER PEOPLE AND WE LIKE TO LEARN OURSELVES.

YOU CAN JUST TAKE YOUR TIME AND MAKE NICE FOOD.

I THINK SWEDISH CHEFS ARE PRETTY UNIQUE IN THAT WAY.

KIRA: YEAH.

HOW GOOD WOULD YOU SAY I AM AT CHOPPING?

ERIK: THAT LOOKS PERFECT.

KIRA: THIS IS THE PROFESSIONAL WAY TO CHOP, RIGHT?

I'M DOING IT PRETTY GOOD?

ERIK: THE TRICK WITH DILL IS YOU CANNOT CUT IT MANY TIMES.

YOU ONLY HAVE TO CUT IT ONE TIME.

KIRA: REALLY?

ERIK: YEAH, BECAUSE IF YOU CUT IT MANY TIMES, THE FLAVOR GOES OUT ON THE BOARD.

KIRA: AH!

ERIK: IT'S A LITTLE BIT GREEN THERE, YOU SEE?

KIRA: THERE IS, THAT'S RIGHT.

AND I WAS OBVIOUSLY FISHING FOR A COMPLIMENT.

HUH?

♪♪ KIRA: UH-HUH.

SO FAR, HELPING, HELPING.

ERIK: YOU CAN HOLD IT.

KIRA: OH GREAT.

ERIK: SOME SOYBEANS ACTUALLY.

KIRA: GREAT, EDAMAME.

ERIK: YOU HAVE THE CABBAGE.

SO YOU WANT TO PLATE SOME WITH ME THEN, KIRA?

KIRA: YOU BET I DO.

ERIK: YEAH, ALL RIGHT.

THIS IS THE FRESH POTATO WITH SOME HERBS IN IT ACTUALLY FROM THE GARDEN.

KIRA: OH GREAT, FROM THE GARDEN.

ERIK: YEAH.

KIRA: IT'S GOOD.

OOH!

COOL!

LIKE A MARYLAND CRAB CAKE.

ERIK: YEAH.

YEAH, THEY ACTUALLY LOOK LIKE HAT.

I DON'T KNOW IF THERE'S AN ENGLISH NAME FOR IT, BUT IT'S HALIBUT AND SOME LING AND SOME SALMON.

IT'S MORE LIKE A FISH BURGER.

KIRA: YEAH, A SWEDISH FISH BURGER.

♪♪ KIRA: DINNER THAT NIGHT WAS SERVED IN A FORMAL MANNER, AS CAREFULLY CHOREOGRAPHED AS IT WAS RELAXED AND LOW KEY, CHARACTERISTICS THAT SEEM TO DESCRIBE THE SWEDISH PEOPLE AS WELL.

SO THIS IS WHAT YOU DO HERE, YOU EAT, YOU WALK, YOU SWING ON SWINGS, YOU RIDE A BIKE.

HEY.

WOMAN #3: HI.

KIRA: TACK-TACK.

[SPEAKING IN SWEDISH] YOU CHILL, AND YOU EXPLORE.

FOR THE LARGEST ISLAND, IT CERTAINLY IS LAID-BACK.

ISLAND NUMBER THREE.

WELL RESTED, WE'RE NOW GOING TO VRÅNGÖ, THE SOUTHERNMOST ISLAND OF OUR JOURNEY.

♪♪ KIRA: HELLO, JAG HETER KIRA.

HÅKAN: HELLO, KIRA, MY NAME IS HÅKAN.

KIRA: HÅKAN, THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR MEETING US.

HÅKAN: YEAH, YOU'RE WELCOME HERE.

KIRA: SHALL WE GO TO YOUR HOTEL?

HÅKAN: YES, WE GO.

TAKE A WALK.

KIRA: PLEASE, LET'S.

HÅKAN: 700 METERS.

KIRA: OH, THAT'S PRETTY FAR AWAY.

OK, I CAN DO IT.

OUR HOST HÅKAN, ONCE A PROFESSIONAL WRESTLER, NOW OWNS GUEST LODGINGS WHICH HE DESIGNED AND BUILT TO LOOK LIKE BOATHOUSES AS A SORT OF ARTISTIC HOMAGE TO THE ISLAND'S MARITIME HISTORY.

OH YEAH.

SOMETHING WE WASTED NO TIME EXPLORING.

THERE'S THE PILOT HOUSE.

HÅKAN: IT'S A SMALL ISLAND IN THE MIDDLE OF THE SEA BETWEEN GOTHENBURG AND DENMARK.

THERE ARE 380 PEOPLE LIVING HERE YEAR-ROUND.

IN THE SUMMERTIME, IT'S 1,500, AND IN THE BEST SUMMER DAYS, IT COMES ABOUT 6,000-8,000 ONE-DAY VISITORS WITH THE FERRIES AND GO OUT ON THE CLIFFS AND THE BEACHES AROUND THE ISLAND.

ROGER: AH, YOU MADE IT UP HERE.

KIRA: I DID.

HELLO.

ROGER: HELLO.

KIRA: NICE TO SEE YOU.

ROGER: YEAH, NICE.

KIRA: WANT TO TELL ME THE STORY ABOUT THIS HOUSE?

ROGER: YES, THIS IS THE OLD PILOT HOUSE.

THIS BUILDING WAS ERECTED IN 1878, BUT PILOTS HAVE BEEN HERE SINCE THE MID-1600S ACTUALLY.

AND THEY USED TO SIT HERE AND LOOK FOR SHIPS TO PILOT, TO SAFELY GUIDE IN AND OUT OF HARBOR AND HELP SHIPS IN DISTRESS.

KIRA: VRÅNGÖ'S ECONOMY, HISTORICALLY, WAS COMPLETELY DEPENDENT ON FISHING.

FOR A FIRSTHAND ACCOUNT, WE MET WITH ANDREAS, THE LOCAL FISH VENDOR.

ON THIS ISLAND, WE NOTICED THAT THE PEOPLE THAT LIVE HERE SEEM TO HAVE BEEN HERE FOR GENERATIONS.

ANDREAS: YEAH, MY FAMILY HAVE BEEN HERE AT LEAST 12-13 GENERATIONS.

MY DAD WAS A FISHERMAN.

HE AND HIS BROTHERS SANK WITH THE BOAT WHEN I WAS ONE YEAR OLD.

KIRA: WOW.

ANDREAS: SO THE OCEAN GIVES AND TAKES.

♪♪ KIRA: ANDREAS OFFERED TO TAKE ME OUT ONTO THE OPEN SEAS TO SHOW ME HOW TO PULL IN THE NETS.

♪♪ ♪♪ KIRA: WHILE CATCHING CRAYFISH IS OUR GOAL, HE TOLD ME TO EXPECT TO SEE A FEW EELS IN THE NETS AS WELL.

WHOA!

ANDREAS: IT IS TRADITION... THAT EVERY FISHERMAN NEEDS TO KISS AN EEL.

KIRA: NO!

ANDREAS: YES.

KIRA: ARE YOU GOING TO DO IT?

EW!

ANDREAS: YOUR TURN!

KIRA: NO!

ANDREAS: YEAH!

KIRA: NOT THE MOUTH.

ANDREAS: [YELLS] KIRA: OK, OK, I DID IT.

[LAUGHS] ♪♪ KIRA: WHOA!

ANDREAS: THEY LIKE FISH.

KIRA: THEY LOVE IT.

I CAN'T BELIEVE ANDREAS TALKED ME INTO KISSING AN EEL, TRADITION OR NOT, BUT I COULDN'T BE MAD BECAUSE HE THEN OFFERED TO TEACH ME HOW TO MAKE HIS FAMOUS FISHCAKES.

OH YEAH.

ANDREAS: YOU CAN START WORK HERE NEXT WEEK.

KIRA: PLEASE!

HOW MUCH DO YOU PAY?

ANDREAS: FREE.

KIRA: THREE?

FREE!

I DON'T THINK SO, MY FRIEND.

ANDREAS: PRACTICE ONE YEAR.

KIRA: PRACTICE ONE YEAR?

A FISHTERNSHIP.

THEY'RE VERY GOOD TODAY.

MAN #4: YOU MADE IT?

KIRA: I DID, SO THEY'RE EXTRA DELICIOUS.

I'D LOVE TO STAY, BUT IF MY FISHTERNSHIP DOESN'T WORK OUT, ANDREAS GAVE ME ANOTHER BRILLIANT IDEA.

YOUR HOTELS ARE BEAUTIFUL HERE, BUT WE'VE ALSO HEARD THAT YOUR JAILS ARE PARTICULARLY NICE.

ANDREAS: YEAH, PEOPLE FROM OTHER COUNTRIES COME HERE AND DO CRIME JUST TO GET IN THE JAILS.

KIRA: [LAUGHS] ANDREAS: WE GIVE THEM MONEY, FOOD, AND A SLEEPING PLACE.

KIRA: IT'S A GREAT DEAL.

ANDREAS: YEAH, WELCOME TO SWEDEN.

♪♪ KIRA: ON OUR LAST NIGHT, THERE WAS A CONCERT IN THE ONLY RESTAURANT ON THE ISLAND, WHICH HAPPENS TO BE OWNED BY ANDREAS'S WIFE AND HÅKAN'S DAUGHTER AND WAS ATTENDED BY BASICALLY THE ENTIRE ISLAND.

♪♪ KIRA: THE AMBASSADOR ON MARSTRANDSÖN NAILED IT.

YOU SIMPLY CANNOT KNOW SWEDEN UNLESS YOU KNOW IT FROM THE WATER, AND YET EACH OF THESE ISLANDS HAVE SUCH DIFFERENT THINGS TO KNOW ABOUT THEM.

♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪ KIRA: FOR MORE INFORMATION ABOUT OUR SERIES, VISIT OUR WEBSITE AT ISLANDSWITHOUTCARS.COM.

[WATER LAPPING AGAINST SHORE] ♪♪