Announcer: Welcome to "Joseph Rosendo's Travelscope"... [Men cheering] ...Where you join us as we accept the world's invitation to visit.

[Men cheering] Rosendo: Today on "Travelscope," on my continuing rail journey through Taiwan, old doors lead to new celebrations of Taiwan's cultural delights.

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Rosendo: Train travel in Taiwan dates back to the Ching dynasty, more than 125 years ago.

During the 50 years of Japanese rule, 1895 to 1945, the railway was expanded and primarily used to support the logging and sugar industries.

Today, there are 4 major lines, 4 narrow-gauge branch lines, and about 800 miles of track.

During the first part of my Taiwan train journey, I followed the rails to natural and cultural experiences.

With my Round Island pass in hand, I continue my Taiwan adventure.

You can save money on your Taiwan train tour with a rail pass.

Age has its privileges, but it pays to be young on the train.

Under-30's get big discounts on 5, 7, or 10-day passes.

All of us save 15% on all trains with a Round Island train pass.

It's not only easy, it's inexpensive to travel by train in Taiwan.

While rail is no longer the only way to travel through Taiwan, it is still an important means of transportation.

In 2011, over 863 million passengers traveled by train.

And as Taiwan modernizes, rather than demolish the old, the Taiwanese repurpose the outdated to serve their growing and changing population.

The Taitung Old Station is another example of how the Taiwanese have taken their abandoned historic buildings and created new spaces with new uses.

They've taken the old railway structures, and this is becoming the Taitung Railway Art Village.

And alongside the old track, they've built a 13-mile bike path around the city of Taitung, creating a new space for visitors and residents to recrir.

[Bicycle bell dings] Not only are old rail stations and tracks being converted into public spaces, the same is true for the abandoned buildings of industries such as sugar, which have long seen their heyday.

The Tainan Rende Sugar Refinery was built in 1909 during the Japanese Colonial Era.

It operated for almost a hundred years.

In 2003, its huge processing works grind to a halt.

Its smokestack, molasses tanks, and sugar train tracks were abandoned, but since the Taiwanese don't like anything to go to waste, in 2007, the renovated sugar refinery buildings are reborn as the Ten Drum Cultural Village, where you can take in international drumming shows, have lunch in a former sugar tank, watch a drum being built, or do a little drumming yourself.

Where you see a cross, we beat the drum once.

Ok?

[Drumbeats] Two cross here... big twice.

Ok!

[Drumbeats] OK. Don't worry.

Rosendo: As I found out, there's more to beating a drum than swinging a stick.

And making a drum?

Well, that requires a master's touch.

Mr. Chung is the drum master, and he's taking a two-foot drum made out of beech wood and with a Taiwanese buffalo hide, and he's going to be finishing it off for me.

So, Mr. Chung, please.

Starts off by taking a wet cloth and rubbing the top of the buffalo hide.

He's doing that to soften it up.

And then here's the interesting part of the process.

And he tightens it by stomping on it.

Ok.

So when he gets it fitting into place, he's gonna come down, and the next step is to listen to it.

[Drumbeats] Try to...He's trying to tune them together.

There's still more tightening that needs to be done.

[Drumbeats] Ha ha.

Xiexie.

Watching this process, it's quite clear that a drum is more than just an instrument, it's also a work of art, and it takes a master to get it exactly right.

Xiexie.

Once they leave the hand of the drum master, it takes a Grammy award nominated group like Ten Drum Art Percussion to play them correctly.

[Drumbeats] At the end of the day, the cultural village makes artistic use of a forgotten part of Taiwan's past and stands as yet another occasion when Taiwan's rails lead to cultural adventures.

In Taiwan, even the subways are pathways to cultural adventures.

Kaohsiung, Taiwan's second city, opened its Metro in 2008.

I'm taking it into the past to Ciaotou Sugar Factory.

Oh, by the way, the 26-mile system, it's also part public's art project and has been named one of the most beautiful systems in the world.

Hi, Leo.

Ni hao.

Ni hao.

Welcome to Kaohsiung.

Ok. Just put this here?

Yeah, put this here.

Ok. Great.

I join Leo, a local railway enthusiast, on an excursion aboard the Kaohsiung Metro.

We're headed to the Taiwan Sugar Museum, which operated as the Ciaotou Sugar Refinery for more than 90 years.

Built in 1902, its former refinery buildings stand as a tribute to Taiwan's golden age of sugar, when exports accounted for 74% of Taiwan's foreign earnings.

With 1,800 miles of sugar-cane railways feeding plants all over the island, Taiwan was named the Kingdom of the Sugar Rail.

Now, of course, this is why we came here, to see these guys.

These are the power behind the sugar trains?

Yes.

Ok. What can you tell me about this?

When was it built?

In 1969.

And what about the number?

It starts with 801, and from 801 to 849.

Right here on the ground we have a narrow gauge, because these trains, these sugar trains, these mini sugar trains, they traveled on a really, really small narrow gauge.

Yes.

So what's the difference between this narrow gauge and the narrow-gauge trains I've been traveling on when I was on the Alishan Forest Railway, the Jiji Line, the branch trains?

Alishan Line is just like this, 30 inches.

and the Taiwan high-speed rail and the MRT is 56 inches.

Why would you have a narrow gauge instead of a standard gauge?

Is there a difference in the ride or what it can hold or what?

Takes less space to construct.

If you have a sugar plantation where you don't want it all taken up with rail lines, you want to plant sugar canes.

We get to ride in a real sugar train.

Yes.

Now, where's this engine from?

From Germany.

I guess if you're a sugar-cane stalk, it didn't have to be a smooth ride, because this is pretty bumpy.

Yeah.

Well, Leo, thank you for coming along on this little ride for me.

Xiexie.

Xiexie.

Built on the back of a history of sugar exports, Kaohsiung is Taiwan's second city.

Exploring down at the waterfront, I discover a popular spot for sampling a local favorite.

Some time in every trip, you've got to just discover what is the local specialty, and here in Kaohsiung, it is the Sea of Ice.

Ah.

This is the iceberg.

This isn't a sea of ice.

This is an ocean of fruit and shaved ice.

When you have something this big, you need a little help from your friends.

Ok. Yay!

[Men cheering] Let's go eat.

Eat.

Eat.

Situated between the sea and Kaohsiung Harbor, one of the largest container ports in the world, Cijin Island has a history that dates back to the early 17th century.

A day excursion to the island is a popular escape from Kaohsiung, and getting there is a pleasant 5-minute, 50-cent ferry ride from Love Pier.

The views from the historic lighthouse are grand.

And while there's a sandy beach below for lounging and the sea for swimming, it's Cijin Island's Seafood Street that attracts the crowds.

Cijin Island is loaded with historical significance.

It's where Kaohsiung began, and...but tonight it's a carnival.

We're on Seafood Street.

Let's go.

I always thought these things were very ingenious.

It keeps the flies off the fresh fish.

The Taiwanese love to have a good time, and they love to eat and drink.

These are little snails.

What's significant about Seafood Street here on the island is that you get to pick your fish before it comes to your table.

We have a huge grouper.

We've got lobster.

They have all sorts of crabs.

There are so many kinds of seafood that I've never seen before in my life.

All these fish, I have no idea what they are.

And you hear that big roar?

That's the sound of woks heating up and stir-frying the food.

You'll hear that all along this street.

The wonderful thing about Asia is these open markets for people to come together, and it's a wonderful place for you to hang out because you see what's available and how people enjoy themselves here.

This is a great spot, everybody choosing their seafood, and then they go into the back and enjoy them.

It's fun to walk up and down Seafood Street, but sooner rather than later, it's time to sit down and indulge myself.

From Kaohsiung, Taiwan's second-largest city with a population of almost 3 million, I take the train to Fenglin, a farming community of less than 13,000.

My 7-room B-and-B is owned by a Hakka family, one of Taiwan's ethnic groups, who have a distinct language, tradition, and cuisine.

I'm with Swenlien and Robert, and Swenlien is the owner of this small restaurant and hotel here in town, and Robert's helping us out, because we're gonna make some Hakka tea.

Now, the Hakka is an ethnic Chinese group here in Taiwan, first came, oh, 300 years ago to the west side of Taiwan from Fujian Province and then emigrated here to the eastern side, and Swenlien, let's start making some tea.

Ok?

So this is ridged.

It acts like an automatic grinder in a way because it adds to the grinding.

[Speaking Taiwanese] Green tea.

Ok. Oh, nice.

[Singing in Taiwanese] You'll try?

Oh, sure, sure.

What again?

What is it?

This?

Yes.

Put these up and push it down.

Ok. [Speaking Taiwanese] Ok. Ok. [Singing in Taiwanese] Very nice.

Ok. Next, the sesames.

The sesames.

Ah.

Ok. [Singing in Taiwanese] Peanuts.

The peanuts.

Ok.

Here we go.

[Singing in Taiwanese] That's great.

Ok. Ok. Next?

Siberian ginseng leaves.

Siberian ginseng leaves.

There we go.

Siberian... You know, this is to give us energy and stamina.

And mint.

This would be good for mojitos, too, you know.

My...My wife really loves mojitos.

Ok.

Here we go.

[Singing in Taiwanese] It's almost like the hula.

I wonder if these moves mean anything.

Let me try.

[Singing in Taiwanese] Ok, ok, ok.

I've been doing this for a half an hour, and it looks like it's ground good?

Yeah.

Look at that.

There now.

See?

It's changed considerably from where we started.

And what is the next step now?

[Singing in Taiwanese] Very nice.

I like that tune.

Hakka tune.

Ok.

So she's got it all in there.

Now she's just mixing it around.

And it grinds a little more because the bowl still has those ridges on there.

Ah, look at that.

Ah... Ah...Taiwan is about never-ending cultural experiences, wonderful cultural experiences.

Xiexie.

Thank you.

The Hakka farming village of Fenglin is transforming itself.

Once a center of tobacco production, the area is becoming a retreat for visitors and a refuge for burnt-out city dwellers who are transplanting here.

Ah.

Xiexie.

Xiexie.

What is this?

Ginger black tea.

Ginger black tea.

Mmm!

Delicious.

Xiexie.

Thank you.

Thank you.

What do we have here?

What's this?

Papaya salad.

Ah.

From your garden?

Yes, from garden.

And this looks like some kind of berry.

Blueberry?

Blackberry?

Mmm.

This is lovely.

Everything we make.

And this bread, also we make it.

You made the bread, too?

Yes.

Now, what made you decide that you wanted to come and do this, come away from the city and come here and...and live like this?

We are tired of the city, city life.

You're an artist, a cultural artist working with people, with the aboriginal people to get them connected back to the land.

And you're an architect.

Yeah, I'm architecture.

I need to design new things, new things, new things.

You're kind of designing yourself new.

Yeah.

You have a guest house here as well, where you invite people in.

The guests come in.

They're from the city.

They're from Taipei, and they're from someplace.

They come in the city.

"Wow!

It's my dream."

Now, are there a lot of people here in the area who are doing what you did, you know, young professionals?

From Hualien to here, there are many friends.

And more and more?

Is it growing?

More and more, yeah.

You're into so many things.

In the United States, we would say you have your finger in many pots.

Yeah.

It's independent.

We have so many bodies.

As one bodies have a thousand hands.

If you want to come to the countryside, you also need to do like this.

Many things?

Many things.

It's the same like this jam.

Like oranges.

Oh, my goodness.

Because just only two of us.

We cannot eat... finish it.

But if we didn't make it, it would need to be throwed.

It would rot.

So we make jam.

This is great because you're basically going back to a simpler time and making do with what you have here.

What kinds of crops do you grow in your garden?

We have papaya.

We have banana.

Mm-hmm.

And different kinds of vegetables, beans.

And your products here, do you take them into the... sell them at the market?

No, we don't sell.

No?

We exchange.

You really are going back to a simpler time.

Maybe we can go into your garden, see all the things you have in your garden and maybe take something to the market.

I understand the market is on today.

Right?

Is that ok?

Yes.

So this is the leaves of sweet potatoes.

Sweet potato?

Mm-hmm.

Now, Euroba is cutting the weeds.

Don't you pull the weeds out?

No, we don't.

We don't pull it out, because the root of the weeds is good for the other plants, to breathe.

Here we have some carrots... lettuce... beans... and this is the garden of herbs.

Herb garden.

What kind of herbs do you have here?

Mint.

We are going to take some lettuce to market.

Rosendo: Lettuce, huh?

You know, it's great.

And you need to take out the...

I'll take care of that.

Ok. Sure.

No problem.

What else?

And you need to also give our plant... Ah, we have a few little friends.

Yeah, I can see.

But at lease we know it's organic.

This from here.

There it is.

Finish it.

Not finishing.

And this part will be still grow back.

Yes, we can plant it again.

And next year, she will again come in again.

Fabulous.

And this we can take to the market now?

To market we go, with goods for bargaining and Sundu, the cat, along for the ride.

[Singing "Sundu"] Before the bargaining begins, I go ahead and check out the likely prospects.

We've just arrived.

Let's try and exchange with this woman right here.

This is Taiwanese ginger right here.

Good.

I just had some ginger tea at their house, and it was probably from ginger that they bargained for when they were a little bit more successful.

I may be in bad luck.

Who knows?

Papaya jam.

Papaya jam.

Delicious.

Ah, si?

Ah, si?

Do you want a little taste?

She say if you buy the jam and then you pay her the money, and she will give us the ginger.

Well, let me get this straight.

So if I buy the jam from you and then give her the money, she will give us the ginger.

Yes.

I don't know.

I know...I know that...

I know that Taiwanese people are very smart, and we're not as smart as they are, but I think that's a bad deal.

That's a bad deal.

Would you like papaya jam?

Homemade papaya jam.

Homemade.

Homemade from this... these kids.

Hey, Euroba, I think we've got a buyer.

Ask her if she wants a taste.

[Speaking Taiwanese] Afraid to eat something she doesn't know.

Yes.

No.

Ok. All right.

What if I taste it first?

I'm the tester.

I taste it.

If I don't die, then she'll taste it.

There's nothing we can do.

All right.

Xiexie.

Xiexie.

Xiexie.

All right.

All right.

Well, it looks...

It looks like we've got two jars of papaya.

We can go to another part.

Let's go to another part.

If at first you can't make a deal, you don't give up.

You try, try again.

[Speaking Taiwanese] So what he asked, "What do you want?"

You want a pineapple, don't you?

Yeah.

Yeah.

[Speaking Taiwanese] I think this is working.

This is ours?

And this is his?

Thank you.

Oh.

Hey.

Xiexie.

Thank you.

Thank you.

Here's a man who knows how to bargain.

He knows a deal when he sees one.

Xiexie.

Xiexie.

Success!

Success!

Yes!

[Cheering] Thank you for joining me of my latest Taiwan adventure.

This is my fourth visit to Taiwan and my sixth show on the country.

Before my first trip, I didn't know what, if anything, of interest I would discover.

Now I know that there could never be an end to the surprising, enlightening, exhilarating, and heartwarming experiences I could have on this beautiful isle.

With its natural beauty, cultural richness, colorful history, and creative spirit, Taiwan presents a wealth of opportunities to the traveler.

The Taiwan rail system is indeed a pathway to adventures.

Yet it doesn't matter how you get around the country.

What matters is what you'll find.

And Taiwan will never cease to entertain, educate, and enchant you.

Until next time, this is Joseph Rosendo, reminding you of the words of Mark Twain-- "Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness."

Happy traveling!

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Stay in touch.

888-876-3399 or TV@Travelscope.net.

Fiery-hot fish balls.

Ha ha!

Xiexie.

[Singing in Taiwanese] Man: Great.

Wow.

This is a remnant of one of the cypress trees that they logged here.

You know, the logging station lumber camp had most every facility that the men needed close at hand.

Why don't we cut a papaya?

Because a papaya should be able to get us something.

They're very valuable, right?

Is that your garden, too?

Chien Yin Ru: No.

This is our neighbor's.

You see, they look so military.

Rosendo: And yours is wild.

Chien Yin Ru: Wild and organic and... Rosendo: Ok.

Here we go.

There we go, a papaya for the market.

Delicious!

[Speaking Taiwanese] [Speaking Taiwanese] [Speaking Taiwanese]