>> Welcome to Joseph Rosendo's "Travelscope," where you join us as we accept the World's invitation to visit.

>> Today on "Travelscope," I take a voyage to Tokyo, Japan's Ogasawara Islands, a natural world with a fascinating past and a multicultural heritage.

>> "Joseph Rosendo's Travelscope" is made possible by... >> San Antonio, Texas, where you'll find art, culture, romance, authentic Tex-Mex, 50-plus golf courses, and hundreds of attractions.

San Antonio, deep in the heart.

and No-Jet-Lag, jet lag prevention.

>> Contrary to what many may think, Tokyo is not all flashy, neon urban landscape.

The city itself offers many natural escapes from the controlled chaos.

In addition, among its more than 200 inhabited and uninhabited islands stretching over 1,200 miles into the South Pacific, are remote places where the pace of life peacefully ebbs and flows with the tides.

To continue my Tokyo adventure, I'm here at the Takeshiba Port, heading to the Ogasawara Islands, because even though it's a 25-hour ferry ride and 600 miles away, the islands are still a part of Tokyo.

Once the last container of supplies heading to the islanders is loaded, it's time to depart Tokyo city and begin our 25-1/2-hour voyage to the Ogasawara Islands.

One of 9 island chains that are part of the Tokyo prefecture, the Ogasawaras, also known as the Bonin Islands, are an archipelago of over 30 subtropical and tropical islands and are noted for their intriguing history, multicultural heritage, natural beauty, and these days, Japanese and foreign tourists in search of an island adventure.

The Ogasawara Maru takes over a thousand people to the Ogasawara Islands in relative comfort.

There are 4 different classes of accommodations.

There's a self-service restaurant, a cafe, a children's play area, a video room, and then, of course, the passing scenery to entertain you.

It's one of the undiscovered attractions of Tokyo.

The master and commander of our vessel is Captain Shiro Kitazawa.

Captain, why do you think it's important for people to visit the island?

>> Have you always wanted to be a captain on a ship?

>> [Laughter] >> Arigatou.

>> Arigatou.

>> T.S.

Eliot said the journey, not the arrival, matters.

At sea, you can take in the ocean views, enjoy a meal in the cafeteria, drop in on a naturalist's lecture, hang out at the cafe, or better still, meet your fellow travelers.

Well, good luck.

Mr. Hakushi loves photography.

Ms. Machita is taking 43 schoolchildren on a nature and culture trip.

While for linguist Daniel Long, the Ogasawara Islands and Islanders have become, after 40 visits and 15 years, a passion.

>> They're part of Japan, but they were originally settled by non-Japanese people, and that's very interesting.

I mean, for a country like the United States or Australia or Canada, we're used to being a multi-ethnic society.

But in Japan, where almost everybody is ethnic Japanese, it's unusual to find an island where there's not only non-Japanese people, but a community of them with their own language, their own culture.

>> Does that culture still survive on the island today?

>> It does.

Language, dance, music, uh... canoes, that sort of thing are still there today, and you can see them when you get to the island.

>> The Ogasawara Maru's only port of call is Chichijima Island, the largest and one of only two inhabited islands in the Ogasawara chain.

Only 2,000 people live on the 15-square-mile island, and Omura, the only village, offers comfortable hotel and guest house accommodations as well as shops, seafood restaurants, popular cafes, and some tourist attractions.

Yet the real reason close to 20,000 visitors a year come to the islands is their UNESCO Natural World Heritage site designation.

Getting close to nature in all of its many manifestations is the number-one island pastime.

What is it about the island that really grabbed you and made you want to move here?

>> A lot of beautiful natures and the whales and dolphins.

>> A lot of the subjects that you can shoot.

As a photographer, you know, besides the subjects, besides the whales and besides the sea life, what is it that inspires you here, inspires your work?

>> Ok.

I think I can feel the great energy from this planet on our natures.

>> Mm-hmm.

Now, as a visitor, what would be the one thing at least that you would tell us that we need to do in order to, like you, capture the spirit of the island?

>> Yes, I want all the visitors, tourists, you know, um... just relaxing and feel the Mother Natures and the beautiful, you know... just beautiful oceans and the natures.

As like me, I want them to feel the energy, direct energy from the...this planet.

>> So slow down and let it kind of seep into your soul?

>> Exactly.

>> Konnichi wa.

>> Konnichi wa.

>> I'm looking forward to our hike.

>> Yes.

>> What's this?

>> This is...clean your shoes.

>> Clean my shoes?

>> And spray.

>> Ok. No seeds.

Ok.

This is to keep this endemic area endemic.

>> And this one is a count... >> Ok. Count who comes.

"Tourist."

That's me.

>> Inside.

That's ok. >> All right.

Let's go.

>> Go.

Let's pray for nature.

>> Besides its UNESCO award, more than 50% of the Ogasawara Islands have been declared a national park, a wilderness preservation area, or a forest ecosystem.

Called the "Galapagos of the Orient," the islands are home to many species of plant and animal life found nowhere else, which makes it a fine place for a nature trek.

Oh, what island is that?

>> That's Higashijima.

"Higashi" means east.

>> East Island.

Ha ha.

Beautiful.

>> Yes.

>> This is a junipers group.

>> Juniper tree?

>> Yes.

[Indistinct] >> This is an old-growth forest, so how old is this juniper?

>> It's about 100 years.

>> 100 years?

It's so small.

>> And strong wind and little rain.

>> It's kind of like a bonsai plant.

>> Yeah.

Just like bonsai.

>> You know, they make gin out of this.

Ha ha!

>> This boat is...second Wars... attacked to Japanese boat.

>> So Americans sunk it?

>> Yes.

Attacked by an underwater missile.

>> Ah, a torpedo.

>> Yes, torpedo.

>> What a view.

From the mountains to the sea, I continue my celebration of Chichijima's natural side by kayaking from Kominato Beach, one of the island's many white-sand beaches and begin my exploration of Ogasawara history, which is full of surprises, twists, and turns.

Ah, we're off on one of our Bonin Island adventures-- kayaking right off of Kominato beach.

Kayaking, snorkeling, scuba diving--those are some of the water activities that are available for you here on the islands.

What a beautiful place to go kayaking.

And it's fairly easy kayaking for real hardcore kayakers.

It's only 36 miles around the whole island.

Although they were spared the slaughter that took place on some of the other islands in the Pacific, like Iwo Jima, the island itself was badly bombarded over and over and over again.

So by the time that the surrender came, there was not really anything left on the island.

In fact, the people that were here on the island had been taken off as well.

So all that was left was a contingent of Japanese soldiers who, when the Americans took over, were repatriated to Japan.

From 1945 to 1968, the island talks about that period as being the Navy era.

And that's when the U.S. Navy was based here, and Islanders of western background were allowed to return.

Ethnic Japanese were not.

It wasn't until 1968 that they were allowed to return to the island.

These islands in the Pacific have so much beauty and so much history, it's extraordinary.

Arigatou.

Beautiful.

Beautiful.

In 1944, as the Allied forces were approaching, the residents of the island were forcibly removed to the Japanese mainland.

There was subsequent heavy bombing on the island, which destroyed the structures and the infrastructure on the island and all the formerly inhabited places.

There was also a contingent of Japanese soldiers here, about 288, that were well dug into the island and actually survived the war.

But for a time at the end of the war, the islands were uninhabited once again.

After the Japanese were repatriated, bunkers, tunnels, and other relics from the war and a few gravesites were all that remained of the Japanese presence.

Only descendants of the Western settlers were allowed to return to the islands.

Their ancestors can still be found in the Chichijima Cemetery, where Professor Daniel Long and Islander Rance Ohira are my guides.

>> I discovered this headstone about 30 years ago.

It was in much worse shape than it is now.

The writings weren't readable.

I drew it with my fingertip, and I deciphered the wording that's on here.

It reads "Do not weep "for me, my child, "for I am only asleep here, for as I am, so must you be."

And that's changed the whole history of my life.

I was about 30, 31 years old at the time.

>> And you read that... >> When I read this, it sent a chill through me.

>> There is a lot of truth in that.

>> Exactly.

The bone truth.

>> Are some of the island's first settlers here?

>> Oh, yes, yes.

In fact, Rance's original male ancestor was George Augustine Washington, but George Augustine Washington's wife was one of Nathaniel Savory's daughters.

Nathaniel Savory was one of the first settlers in 1830.

He was from Massachusetts, as a matter of fact.

>> And had a connection with another very important American, as far as Japanese and American relations have been concerned, Commodore Perry, who opened up Japan, we like to say.

A couple of Yankees there.

>> Right.

Perry came here in 1853.

>> Wow.

>> And he stayed for a couple days, 3, maybe 4 days.

>> Danny, what is it about the islands that make them special to you?

>> Well, you have Japanese islands, not only part of Japan, but part of Tokyo here out in the middle of the Pacific, and yet you have people like Rance and his ancestors who came from all over the world.

So you have mixed culture here.

>> So this has a very interesting history.

Can you fill us in on the history a little bit?

>> Before 1830, nobody lived here.

It was...it was uninhabited.

>> Uh-huh.

Ok. >> In the 1830's, people from the United States, from Europe, from Polynesia came here and settled, and then other people came in after that, and you had a very mixed culture, mixed languages and things.

Then in the 1870's, the Japanese took the islands over.

>> Mm-hmm.

>> Rance's ancestors became Japanese citizens.

>> Now, Rance, personally, now, what did this back-and-forth... What was that effect on you and your family?

>> Had a great effect on me in the sense that my family name had to be changed from Ohira to Washington back to Ohira again a couple of times.

>> So your original name was Washington.

>> Washington was the original name.

>> And then became a Japanese, you went to Ohira.

>> Right.

>> Wow.

That must have been somewhat confusing.

>> Very, yeah.

>> Did you have to learn both languages?

I mean, obviously, you were born in...the Fifties?

>> 1950.

>> 1950.

So that was during the Navy time.

So you spoke English.

>> Right.

They taught us in English, and that's all I knew how to speak.

Then the reversion happened, and I had to switch to Japanese and learn Japanese.

And then I joined the U.S. Army, and I forgot all my Japanese and started all over again.

>> What do you consider yourself?

Are you Japanese or American?

>> Simple questions like that are usually the hardest to answer, I believe.

So I would say neither.

I'm a citizen of the Bonin.

I consider myself a Bonin Islander, and I've always been one.

>> Chichijima, Father Island, is the largest of the Ogasawaras.

Omura, its portside town, offers tourist facilities that include a handful of restaurants where you can sample the island's specialty.

It's well known that fish is very popular in Japan, but here on the Ogasawara Islands, it is the dish to have.

And here we have fish in all sorts of different forms.

So the best thing to do is just to dig in and enjoy.

[Speaking Japanese] Bon appetit.

In the early 19th century, Chichijima was an important whaling station, and many of the island's first settlers were adventurers and whalers.

While in 2013, Japan continues to hunt whales, most visitors to the Ogasawara Islands come to watch the humpbacks play.

Here on the islands-- at least our operator, and I was watching the others, too-- they give the whale some nice distance.

So we have babies out here with adults.

Some places I've been, they rush right up on the whales, and it's not as good for the mammals because once you do, then they change their behavior, and you're watching an animal that's not acting as they normally would, and that's what you want-- an authentic... true viewing experience.

And I think we're having it here.

There!

Right there!

Besides big sea creatures, the waters surrounding Chichijima are rich with World War II wrecks, coral reefs, and colorful tropical fish.

It's an underwater playground... Bonzai!

And part of the protected Ogasawara Kaichu-Koen Sea Park.

Home to hundreds of species of fish, the surrounding sea has always been a source of sustenance for the islanders.

Not long ago, outrigger canoes, a legacy from their Polynesian forebears, were used to catch their daily meal.

So Rocky, this outrigger canoe, how old is it?

>> It's more than 70 years.

>> 70 years?

>> Yes, 70 years.

>> Who used it?

>> My father was using it before.

My father was a fisherman in this island.

So my father always using this canoe to go out to the ocean, catch the big one.

My father was, you know, the champion for that.

>> Really?

Really?

>> Never missed.

Number one.

My father using this canoe every day.

My father catch the fish, and our dishes were fish.

So, you know, that's why I, you know, respect my father always.

>> Sure.

Of course.

>> Was it hand line?

Must have been.

>> Yeah, hand line.

It's mainly hand line.

>> That's fabulous.

But this is a kind of a boat that the Pacific Islander people use.

>> Before, in this beach, 10 or 15 canoes was in here, and too many fishermen was in here before.

But now, the wood canoe is only my father's one.

Otherwise, all gone.

>> It's good to see that you're trying to keep the culture alive.

>> Yes.

We have to keep the... you know, culture forever, because we are living in here.

Still we are in here.

So we have to, you know... say to our children to keep that culture.

That's important for us, you know.

>> The Islander effort to preserve their multicultural heritage goes back generations.

In a Chichijima community center close to Yankee Town, the site of the first American settlement, a class of local children are taught the hula, while not far away, Ms. Machita's Tokyo city schoolchildren learn the Micronesian Marching Dance, Nanyo odori, also called South Seas Dance, which was introduced to the Ogasawaras in the 1930's as part of the cultural preservation effort.

[Drumming] Even the gods are multicultural on Chichijima.

In St. George's Church, built during the Navy years, Sunday mass is currently performed by a priest of Japanese and Portuguese background.

While in Okamiama Park, I take time to pay my respects at the Japanese Shinto Shrine.

[Clap clap] Yet there are some island traditions that are as endemic to the islands as many of its plants and animals.

We're in the long line, getting ready to get back onto the ship to head back to Tokyo, and one of the nice things that happens here on the islands is the people, they know you, you're family, and also people you've worked with, like our guides, they come out to bid you farewell.

Arigatou.

>> [Speaking Japanese] >> What they just said was, "Go and come back."

[Drumming] [Cheering and applause] It's so wonderful, the great departure we're getting, the great farewell.

Some of the people have wreaths from some of the plants on the island that they wear around their neck or on their head, and they're gonna cast them into the water, and if they're caught by someone or if they make it to shore, that means they're coming back.

In essence, they're saying, "I'm leaving, but I shall return."

Thank you for joining me on my Tokyo Islands adventure.

Here on the Bonin Ogasawara Islands, I was reminded once again that travel is like a treasure hunt.

Even though you're told where the riches are buried, the real gems you must discover on your own.

The islands are noted for their natural beauty.

And the most popular activities of kayaking, snorkeling, trekking, and whale watching are excellent reasons to visit.

My interactions with the islanders and what I learned by exploring their history and culture will always be my most cherished souvenirs.

Till next time, this is Joseph Rosendo reminding you of the words of Mark Twain-- Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness.

Happy traveling.

>> "Joseph Rosendo's Travel Scope" is made possible by... >> San Antonio, Texas, where you'll find art, culture, romance, authentic Tex-Mex, 50-plus golf courses, and hundreds of attractions.

San Antonio, deep in the heart.

And No-Jet-Lag, jet lag prevention.

For a DVD of today's show or any of Joseph's Travelscope adventures, call 888-876-3399 or order online at Travelscope.net.

You can also e-mail us at TV@Travelscope.net or write us at the address on your screen.

>> Now that we've explored Tokyo's Ogasawara Islands together, learn more at Travelscope.net, where you can follow my worldwide adventures through my e-magazine, blog, podcast, and on Facebook.

Stay in touch--888-876-3399 or TV@Travelscope.net.

>> Warm as the Caribbean, Mexico.

Warm.

Ogasawaro.

>> Ogasawara.

>> Ogasawara.

Ogasawara.

Ogasawara.

Ogasawara.

It's hard for me to say that.

You've got to have-- >> Think of it as just those individual syllables.

>> Ogasawara.

I do.

I do.

Thank you.

Thank you, Ray.

>> Yeah.

Sorry.

Ha ha.

>> Ah...gosh.

All right.