KIRA: COMING UP NEXT ON ISLANDS WITHOUT CARS.

WE EXPERIENCE THE UNIQUE EUROPEAN BICYCLE CULTURE OF THE NETHERLANDS.

COME ALONG FOR THE RIDE AS WE MEET TWO AMERICANS PLAYING A SIGNIFICANT PART IN IT.

AMY: HELLO.

KIRA: HELLO.

FLOAT THROUGH A STORYBOOK VILLAGE OF INTERCONNECTED ISLANDS.

FEMALE: LOVELY.

KIRA: LOVELY, THANK YOU.

AND MEET THE DISTINCTIVE ISLANDERS WHO GIVE NEW MEANING TO DUTCH TREAT.

[MUSIC] KIRA: HI, I'M KIRA COOK AND IT'S MY GREAT PLEASURE TO BE YOUR GUIDE AS WE SEARCH FOR ISLANDS LOST IN TIME, PLACES WHERE CARS ARE RESTRICTED AND WHOSE INHABITANTS WOULDN'T HAVE IT ANY OTHER WAY.

SO COME WITH ME ON A JOURNEY THAT YOU WON'T FORGET.

[MUSIC] [MUSIC] OUR FIRST STOP IN EXPLORING DUTCH, CAR-FREE CULTURE IS AMSTERDAM.

THEN WE'LL MAKE OUR WAY TO THE ISLAND OF SCHIERMONNIKOOG, LOCATED IN THE NORTH SEA.

WHILE NEITHER AMSTERDAM NOR THE FLOATING VILLAGE OF GIETHOORN, WHICH WE'LL ALSO CHECK OUT, ARE ACTUAL ISLANDS.

THEIR CAR-RESTRICTED PHILOSOPHIES, WATERY SERIES OF CANALS, AND BICYCLE FRIENDLY VALUES, HAVE CONSPIRED TO CREATE ISLAND-LIKE LIFESTYLES.

AMSTERDAM WAS BUILT AROUND 1250 WITH THE BUILDING OF THE DAM THAT GAVE THE CITY ITS NAME.

AMESTELREDAMME IS MEDIEVAL DUTCH FOR DAM IN A WATERY AREA.

NOW IN AMSTERDAM WATER COVERS ABOUT A QUARTER OF THE CITY'S SURFACE, WHICH OFFICIALLY MAKES IT THE MOST WATERY CITY IN THE WORLD.

THE THREE MAIN CANALS WERE BUILT IN THE 17TH CENTURY DUTCH GOLDEN AGE.

WE'RE ON ONE OF THEM RIGHT NOW, HERENGRACHT.

[BICYCLE BELLS] AMSTERDAM IS ALWAYS ON, OR NEAR, THE TOP OF LISTS FOR THE MOST BICYCLE FRIENDLY CITIES IN THE WORLD AND IS ARGUABLY THE EPICENTER AND PIONEER OF WESTERN BICYCLE CULTURE.

THERE ARE MORE BICYCLES HERE THAN PEOPLE AND THE ETHOS HAS BEEN EVOLVING FOR CENTURIES.

AT THE END OF THE 19TH CENTURY, BICYCLING WAS EN VOGUE, BUT ONLY FOR THE WEALTHY.

THEY HAD TO TAKE LESSONS ON HOW TO BICYCLE WITH ETIQUETTE.

FOR EXAMPLE MEN WERE SUPPOSED TO SALUTE THEIR FELLOW DRIVERS ON THE ROAD WITH A TIP OF THEIR CAP.

IN THE 1920S, BICYCLING WAS DEMOCRATIZED BECAUSE FACTORIES BEGAN BUILDING THEM AND THEY BECAME MUCH CHEAPER AND AFFORDABLE TO EVERYONE.

TODAY, BICYCLING ACCOUNTS FOR MORE THAN HALF OF ALL TRIPS WITHIN THE CITY CENTER.

NOW, THAT'S MORE THAN DRIVING, WALKING AND PUBLIC TRANSPORT COMBINED.

[BICYCLE BELL] THIS IS RECYCLE, A UNIQUE, NON-PROFIT WHERE PEOPLE ARE REENTERING THE WORKFORCE BY BEING TRAINED TO REPAIR OLD BICYCLES FOR RESALE WHILE REINVENTING THEMSELVES IN THE PROCESS.

HELLO.

AMY: HI, I'M AMY JOY.

KIRA: HI, I'M KIRA.

AMY: I RUN THE SHOP HERE.

BUT IT'S A NON-PROFIT WHERE WE HELP PEOPLE GET REHABILITATED.

SO WE DO THAT IN REHABILITATION FROM BEING IN REHAB, BEING IN MENTAL HOSPITALS OR EVEN BEING IN JAIL.

THEY COME HERE, LEARN HOW TO FIX BIKES, GET A REAL-WORLD SKILL AND AT THE SAME TIME STAY OFF THE STREETS AND HOPEFULLY OFF DRUGS.

KIRA: WHERE DO YOU GET ALL THESE BIKES THAT YOU RECYCLE?

AMY: A LOT OF PEOPLE JUST LEAVE THEIR BIKES LAYING AROUND.

THE CITY DOESN'T LIKE THIS AT ALL AND THEY COME BY AND ROUND UP ALL THE ORPHAN BIKES.

WHERE DO THESE ORPHAN BIKES GO?

THEY GO TO A HUGE BIKE DEPOT.

THEY WAIT FOR THEIR RESPECTIVE OWNERS, BUT VERY OFTEN THE OWNERS JUST THINK, OH WELL, IT'S BEEN STOLEN AND IT'S LOST FOREVER, AND NOBODY LOOKS FOR THESE BIKES EVER AGAIN.

AFTER THREE MONTHS, 90 DAYS, NO ONE'S CLAIMED THEM THEN THEY'RE UP FOR SALE AND WE BUY THEM FOR VERY CHEAP.

WE KIND OF WORK IN COOPERATION WITH THE GOVERNMENT TO GET THESE BIKES FOR CHEAP IN ORDER TO HAVE A PLACE FOR THEM TO BE RECYCLED.

KIRA: COOL.

AMY: HENCE THE NAME OF OUR SHOP.

YEAH.

AND OUR MONEY COMES FROM ABOUT 50% FROM THE SELLING OF THE BICYCLES AND REPAIRS AND THINGS, THAT'S WHAT I DO, BUT THE OTHER 50% COMES FROM, WELL THE GOVERNMENT, SUBSIDIES AND ALSO THE INSURANCE COMPANIES BECAUSE THEY SEE IT AS A FORM OF CARE.

MY OFFICIAL TITLE IS ACTUALLY CARE GIVER.

KIRA: WOW.

AS A BIKE... AMY: AS A BIKE MECHANIC.

KIRA: MECHANIC, YEAH.

AMY: I'M A BIKE MECHANIC THERAPIST OR SOMETHING LIKE THAT.

KIRA: WHAT A COOL JOB.

AMY: YEAH.

THE BIKES END UP GETTING A SECOND LIFE AND SO DO THE PEOPLE THAT WORK HERE.

KIRA: SPEAKING OF SECOND LIVES, AMY'S EX-HUSBAND, PETE JORDAN, CAME TO AMSTERDAM TO STUDY HOW THE DUTCH DESIGNED THEIR CITY FOR CYCLISTS AND ENDED UP WITH A NEW LIFE AND BOOK ON HOW BICYCLES BECAME THE KING OF THE ROAD.

PETE: WHEN I GOT HERE AND I STARTED ASKING AROUND, ASKING URBAN PLANNING PROFESSORS, AMSTERDAM HISTORY PROFESSORS, "CAN YOU TELL ME HOW IT GOT TO BE THIS WAY," NOBODY HAD ANSWERS FOR ME.

IT'S JUST ALWAYS BEEN AND NOBODY'S REALLY THOUGHT MUCH ABOUT IT AND SO I STARTED DOING RESEARCH ON MY OWN.

KIRA: PETE DISCOVERED THAT AFTER WORLD WAR I, THE PRICES ON TRAMS INCREASED JUST AS A LOT OF BIKES WERE BEING IMPORTED FROM GERMANY.

THE COMBINATION OF EVENTS PUSHED PEOPLE OFF THE TRAMS AND ONTO BIKES.

BUT IN THE 1950S, MORE PEOPLE EVERYWHERE STARTED BUYING CARS AND THE CITY BECAME CROWDED AND POLLUTED.

PETE: WITHIN TEN YEARS OR SO IT BECAME CLEAR TO SOME PEOPLE THAT THIS WAS NOT WORKING.

THAT IT WAS INSANITY IN THIS OLD CITY CENTER THAT EVERYBODY HAS A CAR.

ALL THESE SQUARES WHERE YOU SEE CAFÉ TERRACES WERE GIANT PARKING LOTS, SIDEWALKS WERE FILLED WITH CARS, THE NUMBER OF TRAFFIC FATALITIES WENT THROUGH THE ROOF AND BEGINNING IN MID-1970S THERE WERE A NUMBER OF LARGE BIKE PROTESTS.

EACH ONE WAS BIGGER THAN THE NEXT.

[BICYCLE BELL] BEGINNING OF THE 1980S THEN THE BIKE LANES WERE BEING INSTALLED, BIKE RACKS WERE BEING INSTALLED.

THERE WAS NO BLUEPRINT ON HOW TO DO IT SO THERE WAS A LOT OF TRIAL AND ERROR AND 35 OR SO YEARS LATER THERE'S STILL A LOT OF TRIAL AND ERROR.

IT'S A WORK IN PROGRESS.

FOREIGNERS, WHEN THEY GET HERE, THEY LOOK AT WHAT WE HAVE HERE FOR CYCLISTS AND THINK THAT IT'S ALWAYS BEEN THIS WAY BUT THAT'S NOT THE CASE AT ALL.

THIS WAS A VERY CONCERTED EFFORT THAT'S TAKEN 35 YEARS TO GET TO WHERE WE ARE NOW.

KIRA: AMSTERDAM'S CAR-FREE ZONES ARE SUSTAINABLE RESPONSES TO THE ENORMOUS CHALLENGES OF CONGESTION, POLLUTION AND CLIMATE CHANGE.

WHETHER RIDING A BIKE THROUGH A FLOWER MARKET OR CRUISING THE CANALS BY BOAT.

MARK: HI.

KIRA: HI.

I'M KIRA.

MARK: HI, MY NAME IS MARK.

KIRA: NICE TO MEET YOU.

MARK: WELCOME ABOARD.

KIRA: THANK YOU SO MUCH.

ALL WHILE SURROUNDED BY STUNNING ARCHITECTURAL DIVERSITY, AMSTERDAM OFFERS INCOMPARABLE QUALITY-OF-LIFE EXPERIENCES.

[MUSIC] THIS BEAUTIFUL SYSTEM OF CANALS IS ONE OF AMSTERDAM'S TOP TOURIST ATTRACTIONS AND IS LISTED AS A UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITE.

[MUSIC] TO KEEP THE CANALS CLEAN AND QUIET, THE CITY COUNCIL HERE IS ACTIVELY INVOLVED IN LEGISLATING CHANGE FROM DIESEL TO ELECTRICALLY POWERED BOATS.

SO WHY DID YOU CHOOSE TO BUY A BOAT THAT'S ELECTRIC POWERED?

MARK: IT'S NOT ALLOWED TO HAVE A BOAT WITH DIESEL ENGINE.

IT'S ONLY ALLOWED TO DRIVE ELECTRIC.

KIRA: OH, OK. THAT'S WHY THE CANALS ARE CLEAN.

THERE'S NO GAS BEING PUMPED INTO THE WATER.

THAT MAKES SENSE.

[MUSIC] AS WE WAVE GOODBYE TO AMSTERDAM, OUR NEXT DESTINATION IS THE REAL-LIFE FAIRYTALE VILLAGE OF GIETHOORN, JUST 55 MILES NORTH EAST.

[MUSIC] OFTEN CALLED THE VENICE OF THE NORTH, CARS ARE NOT ALLOWED AND HAVE TO BE PARKED OUTSIDE OF THE VILLAGE.

WHILE A BIKE PATH HAS BEEN ADDED, MOST TRANSPORT IS DONE BY BOAT.

[MUSIC] NOW I'M IN LOVELY GIETHOORN.

EVERYTHING IS CONNECTED BY ALL THESE BRIDGES AND BEAUTIFUL SERIES OF CANALS.

YOU HAVE TO LEAVE YOUR CARS OUTSIDE THE TOWN BECAUSE THEY'RE NOT ALLOWED.

ESSENTIALLY THIS WHOLE CITY IS LIKE A SERIES OF ISLANDS WITHIN THE MAINLAND OF THE NETHERLANDS.

[MUSIC] WE'RE STAYING AT THE DE LINDENHOF HOTEL.

OH YEAH.

WHERE OWNER, OPERATOR AND GRAND CHEF, MARTIN KRUITHOF, HAS EARNED TWO WELL-DESERVED MICHELIN STARS FOR HIS RESTAURANT.

WHAT IS YOUR COOKING ETHOS?

WHAT DO YOU LIKE TO BRING TO YOUR MENUS?

MARTIN: THE BEST PRODUCE IS THE MOST IMPORTANT FOR A RESTAURANT.

IF YOU BUY THE BEST FOOD FOR THE BEST INGREDIENTS, FISH, VEGETABLES, PIGEON OR MEAT, IT'S ALWAYS THE HALF WORK, YOU KNOW.

IF YOU BUY BAD INGREDIENTS, THEN IT'S VERY DIFFICULT TO MAKE SOMETHING GOOD.

SURE, SURE.

AND IT'S MORE EASY TO BUY GOOD FOOD AND MAKE IT BAD.

KIRA: WHILE I HAVE SOME EXPERIENCE BUYING GOOD FOOD AND MAKING IT BAD, I CERTAINLY APPRECIATE THOSE WHO MAKE IT GOOD.

UM!

UM!

[MUSIC] OH YEAH!

WE ENDED OUR DUTCH TREAT HERE WITH A MORE TRADITIONAL ONE: ENJOYING A PICNIC LUNCH WHILE GLIDING DOWN GIETHOORN'S FAMED CANALS.

[MUSIC] GOEDEMIDDAG.

ESTABLISHED AS A SETTLEMENT OF PEAT HARVESTERS, GIETHOORN CONSISTS OF A SERIES OF FAIRYTALE THATCHED, 18TH AND 19TH CENTURY HOUSES, BUILT ON INDIVIDUAL PEAT ISLANDS AND CONNECTED BY OVER 170 SMALL BRIDGES.

[MUSIC] IS IT DIFFICULT TO NOT BE ABLE TO USE YOUR CARS AS MUCH IN THIS TOWN?

TO BE ABLE TO HAVE TO KIND OF RIDE YOUR BOAT EVERYWHERE?

BOAT DRIVER: NO, I LIKE IT.

I, SOMETIMES I GO WITH BOAT TO THE SUPERMART.

KIRA: YEAH?

BOAT DRIVER: OR THE BAKERY OR BUTCHER.

KIRA: VERY CONVENIENT FOR YOU.

BOAT DRIVER: YEAH, IT'S NORMAL FOR ME.

[MUSIC] KIRA: I REALLY DO FEEL LIKE I'VE FALLEN INTO A FAIRYTALE.

BUT ALAS, THE PRINCESS, THAT WOULD BE ME, HAS TO WAKE UP AND CONTINUE HER JOURNEY IN REAL LIFE.

WE'RE TAKING A 45 MINUTE BOAT RIDE NORTH OF THE MAINLAND TO THE TEN MILE LONG ISLAND OF SCHIERMONNIKOOG, WHICH TAKES A LOT OF PRACTICE PRONOUNCING.

I'D LIKE TO ASK YOU ABOUT SCHIERMONNIKOOG.

SCHIERMONNIKOOG?

BENNIE: SCHIERMONNIKOOG.

YES.

[LAUGHING] KIRA: PERFECT.

HENRIETTE: SCHIERMONNIKOOG.

CAN YOU PRONOUNCE IT?

KIRA: CAN YOU HELP ME PRONOUNCE IT?

[LAUGHING] GEA: SCHIERMONNIKOOG.

BERT: YES.

SCHIERMONNIKOOG.

KIRA: SCHIERMONNIKOOG.

BERT: NO.

SCHIERMONNIKOOG.

BENNIE: SCHIERMONNIKOOG.

KIRA: SCHIERMONNIKOOG.

BENNIE: YES.

KIRA: OK. JAN: SCHIERMONNIKOOG.

KIRA: SCHIERMONNIKOOG.

JAN: SCHIERMONNIKOOG.

KIRA: SCHIERMONNIKOOG.

JAN: JA.

IT'S VERY DIFFICULT, ISN'T IT?

KIRA: SCHIERMONNIKOOG.

BERT: BETTER.

KIRA: BETTER, BUT STILL NOT IT.

BERT: NOT PERFECT YET.

[LAUGHING] KIRA: ALRIGHT.

IT'S NEVER GOING TO HAPPEN.

ALRIGHT.

REGARDLESS OF HOW YOU PRONOUNCE IT, THIS ISLAND IS THE LESS DENSELY POPULATED MUNICIPALITY IN THE NETHERLANDS, WITH ONLY 900 RESIDENTS.

[SINGING] KIRA: WHO ALL SEEM TO SHOW UP FOR THE LOCAL CONCERTS.

[SINGING] KIRA: THANK YOU.

WAITRESS: THERE YOU GO.

KIRA: SO HOW DO YOU SAY HOT CHOCOLATE AGAIN?

WAITRESS: WARME CHOCOLADEMELK.

KIRA: WARME CHOCOLADEMELK.

WAITRESS: NAILED IT, NAILED IT.

KIRA: NAILED IT.

THANK YOU.

ALRIGHT, FIRST TIME I'VE EVEN BEEN TOLD THAT I'VE NAILED SOMETHING IN DUTCH.

NEXT UP THE NAME OF THE ISLAND PERHAPS.

SCHIERMONNIKOOG.

YEP, SHE SAID NO.

YOU CAN'T IT CAUSE IT'S NOT ON CAMERA, BUT SHE JUST WENT.

WHILE GUESTS CANNOT BRING CARS ON THE ISLAND, INHABITANTS ARE ALLOWED TO HAVE A CAR AND THERE ARE A FEW ELECTRIC BUSES FOR TRANSPORT FROM THE DOCK TO THE VILLAGE.

BUT VEHICLES AREN'T ALLOWED ON THE EITHER THE BEACHES OR IN THE VILLAGE.

SO THIS ISLAND IS SO CUTE, THERE IS ONE SUPERMARKET, ONE BAKERY, A COUPLE OF REALLY LOVELY RESTAURANTS TO CHOOSE FROM, COUPLE ICE CREAM SHOPS AND YEAH IT'S RAINING, BUT WE'RE GOING TO RENT SOME BICYCLES AND BIKE ALONG THE ISLAND IN THE RAIN BECAUSE THAT'S WHAT THE DUTCH DO.

SO, YOU KNOW, WHEN ON SCHIERMONNIKOOG.

[MUSIC] [MUSIC] FEMALE VOICE: GOEDEMORGEN.

KIRA: GOEDEMORGEN.

[MUSIC] KIRA: OH WOW.

[MUSIC] MAYBE A MIX OF SALTY AND SWEET.

I'D LOVE THAT.

GREAT.

[MUSIC] OK. SEE YOU LATER.

THANK YOU.

MAN: BYE, BYE.

KIRA: CHEERS.

MAN: BYE.

KIRA: TOT ZIENS.

MAN: TOT ZIENS.

[MUSIC] [MUSIC] LADY: WE GONNA COOK WITH FISH.

KIRA: RIGHT.

LADY: LIKE CRAYFISH.

[MUSIC] CHEF: FOOD MUST BE SIMPLE AND SPEAKS FOR ITSELF.

[MUSIC] KIRA: SCHIERMONNIKOOG IS WHERE THE DUTCH COME TO RIDE BIKES...

WALK TRAILS... BREATHE FRESH AIR... AND JUST RELAX.

[MUSIC] BERT: WE CAME HERE ABOUT 20 YEARS AGO FOR THE FIRST TIME AND DISCOVERED THIS BEAUTIFUL PLACE HERE AND WE FOUND HERE A PLACE OF RELAXING, SILENCE, REST AND IT'S BEAUTIFUL FOR CHILDREN.

BEAUTIFUL FOR US.

KIRA: AND SO HOW OFTEN ARE YOU HERE DURING THE YEAR?

BERT: SIX OR SEVEN TIMES.

GEA: SIX, SEVEN, EIGHT TIMES.

EACH.

BERT: WEEKENDS, HOLIDAYS.

KIRA: WHEN WE FIRST ARRIVED ON THE ISLAND, WE HAD A DIFFICULT TIME FINDING YOU BECAUSE OUR PHONES DIDN'T WORK, BUT IT BECAME QUICKLY APPARENT THAT EVERYBODY KNOWS EVERYBODY ON THIS ISLAND, SO IT WAS NOT VERY HARD TO GET IN TOUCH WITH YOU.

BERT: NO, I BELIEVE THAT THIS, THAT THIS, QUIET AN EASY THING HERE, JUST ASK THE BUS DRIVER OR A WAITER IN A RESTAURANT FOR A NAME OR A PERSON AND YOU WILL FIND THEM.

I'M FOR SURE.

KIRA: THERE'S A DUTCH IDIOM THAT TRANSLATES TO SOMETHING LIKE THEY LOOK THE CAT OUT OF THE TREE.

WHICH MEANS THEY'RE CAREFUL AND ANALYTIC WITH STRANGERS.

BUT WE'VE SEEN NONE OF IT AND BERT AND GEA HAVE BECOME OUR INSTANT FRIENDS AND GUIDES.

KIRA: HELLO.

BERT: HI PETE.

PETER: HI.

KIRA: I'M KIRA.

PETER: I'M PETER.

HOW ARE YOU?

KIRA: NICE TO MEET YOU.

I'M GREAT.

PETER: NICE TO MEET YOU, TOO.

HEY BERT.

GEA: HI.

PETER: SO WELCOME TO MY FARM.

KIRA: THANK YOU.

THIS IS BEAUTIFUL.

I LOVE THESE LITTE COWS OVER HERE.

PETER: THAT'S THE LITTLE ONES.

THEY'RE ABOUT A WEEK OLD.

KIRA: A WEEK OLD.

OH MY GOD, THEY'RE HUGE.

PETER: THEY'RE BORN HUGE.

I LIVED HERE MY WHOLE LIFE ON THE ISLAND.

I'VE BEEN TO COLLEGE, BUT THERE WERE FOUR YEARS, BUT ALWAYS HOME SICK AND WANTED TO GET HOME.

KIRA: WERE YOUR PARENTS FARMERS?

PETER: YEAH, ABOUT THREE GENERATIONS NOW.

KIRA: HOW MANY COWS DO YOU HAVE?

PETER: I'M MILKING NOW 65.

KIRA: 65.

PETER: I HAVE 35 ACRES.

THEY'RE ALL FREE, THE COWS.

THEY CAN GO OUTSIDE, THEY CAN GO INSIDE, THEY CAN GO EVERYWHERE.

WHEN THEY NEED TO GET MILKED, WHEN THEY FEEL NECESSARY, THEY GET INTO THE MILKING PARLOR AND THEN THEY'LL GET BY ROBOT, IS MILKING THE COWS.

KIRA: THAT'S INCREDIBLE.

SO YOU DON'T HAVE TO MILK THEM AT ALL.

THIS IS A THING OF THE PAST.

PETER: NO, I DON'T HAVE TO MILK THEM.

KIRA: SELF-MILKING COWS THAT CAN TELL TIME?

DEFINITELY NOT IN KANSAS ANYMORE.

OR, EVEN AMSTERDAM.

NEXT WE MET WITH THE LOCAL ANTIQUARIAN BOOK SELLER, WHO FIRST CAME TO THE ISLAND IN 1973.

KIRA: WHY DID YOU CHOOSE TO MAKE THIS YOUR SECOND HOME?

JAN: THE ISLAND IS SMALL AND THERE IS SO MUCH NATURE AND THERE'S A SILENCE OVER THE ISLAND AND ALL THE, ALL THE ELEMENTS.

THE SEA, THE WINDS SOMETIMES, THE RAIN, THE SUNSHINE AND EVERYBODY WHO COMES ON THE ISLAND IS ALWAYS VERY HAPPY.

KIRA: THEY ARE, YEAH.

JAN: SOME PEOPLE SAY, YEAH, YOU COME TO FIND YOURSELF HERE ON THE ISLANDS.

YOUR OWN MINDS.

KIRA: THAT SENSE OF CONTEMPLATION HAS A LONG HISTORY ON THIS ISLAND.

AS IT'S FIRST INHABITANTS WERE MONKS, WHICH IS WHERE THE ISLAND GOT IT'S NAME.

SCHIER IS AN ARCHAIC WORD MEANING GRAY, REFERRING TO THEIR ROBES.

MONNIK MEANS MONK.

OOG TRANSLATES TO ISLAND.

SO, SCHIERMONNIKOOG MEANS GREY MONK ISLAND.

IN THE 16TH CENTURY, THE PROTESTANT REFORMATION PUT AN END TO THE MONASTERIES.

AND FOR THE NEXT THREE CENTURIES, SCHIERMONNIKOOG WAS SOLD AND RESOLD TO A SERIES OF WEALTHY INDIVIDUALS.

BUT BECAUSE IT'S LAST PRIVATE OWNER WAS GERMAN AND GERMANY OCCUPIED THE ISLAND DURING WORLD WAR 2, THE DUTCH GOVERNMENT CONFISCATED SCHIERMONNIKOOG AFTER THE WAR, ON GROUNDS THAT IT HAD BECOME ENEMY PROPERTY.

IN 1989, SCHIERMONNIKOOG BECAME THE NETHERLANDS FIRST NATIONAL PARK.

THE PLANTS, WILDLIFE AND EIGHT POPULAR BEACHES ARE TREASURED, PROTECTED AND DOCUMENTED WITH THE PRECISION THE DUTCH ARE KNOWN FOR.

YOU HAVE A PRETTY UNIQUE PERSPECTIVE ON THIS ISLAND, TELL ME WHY.

WHAT DO YOU DO?

WHAT ARE WE WALKING INTO?

THYS: MY GREATEST HOBBY IS TO COLLECT SHELLS.

IT STARTED LONG AGO.

I WAS BORN HERE ON THE ISLAND, VERY LONG AGO, AND AS A SCHOOLBOY, I STARTED TO COLLECT SHELLS, BUT I NEVER STOPPED.

SO, AT A CERTAIN MOMENT, THEY DIDN'T FIT INTO OUR HOUSE AND WE MADE THEM IN HERE INTO A SMALL MUSEUM.

KIRA: SO THE HOBBY BECAME AN OBSESSION.

THYS: FOR SURE.

KIRA: AND THEN IT BECAME A MUSEUM.

THYS: YEP.

KIRA: THIS LIFE-LONG OBSESSION LED TO THE UNIVERSITY OF BRITISH COLUMBIA TO STUDY THE INVERTEBRATES HE LOVINGLY COLLECTS AND DISPLAYS IN THIS UNIQUE MUSEUM.

THYS: IT CONTAINS ABOUT ONE AND A HALF THOUSAND SPECIES OF SHELLS, BUT ALSO EVERYTHING HERE YOU CAN FIND ON THE ISLAND.

KIRA: SO WHAT IS SPECIAL ABOUT THE ECOLOGY OF SCHIERMONNIKOOG?

THYS: IT'S A VERY, AN ISLAND WITH A LOT OF VARIETY IN THE LANDSCAPES AND THAT RESULTS IN A LOT OF DIFFERENT PLANTS, ANIMALS... YOU SEE HERE, THEY ARE BLACK BONES AND BLACK BONES MEANS OLD BONES.

THEY ARE MOSTLY FROM ANIMALS FROM THE LAST ICE AGE.

THIS ONE IS THE BONE FROM THE TOE OF THE MAMMOTH AND ON THE RIGHT IS A PART OF A JAW FROM THE GIANT DEER THAT LIVED IN THE LAST ICE AGE.

KIRA: AND SO YOU HAVE ALL THESE BOTTLES COLLECTED.

HAVE YOU EVER FOUND ANY MESSAGES IN OLD BOTTLES?

THYS: YES, FOR SURE.

THERE IS A BOOKLET ON THE TABLE WITH MORE THAN ABOUT 100 LETTERS FROM BOTTLES ALL HERE FROM THE BEACH.

I DO IT SINCE 1971 BECAUSE THEN I FOUND A BOTTLE FROM AN AMERICAN AND IT CAME FROM SOMEWHERE IN THE ATLANTIC.

THE COORDINATES ARE ON THE LETTER AND I NEVER FOUND A BOTTLE FROM SO FAR.

FROM THAT MOMENT ON, I KEPT THEM, BUT I NEVER FOUND ONE FROM SO FAR.

KIRA: WHAT CAN WE LEARN FROM ALL THESE SHELLS THAT YOU'VE COLLECTED?

THYS: GO TO THE BEACH, SMELL THE FRESH AIR AND TO LOOK AT THE ENORMOUS VARIETY AND YOU WILL NEVER BE BORED WHEN YOU ARE LOOKING FOR SHELLS.

NEVER.

KIRA: NEXT, WE OBVIOUSLY WENT TO THE BEACH WHERE WE DISCOVERED A UNIQUE ART SCHOOL OPERATING OUT OF AN OLD BUS THAT'S BEEN TURNED INTO A STUDIO.

THE SECOND ONE, ACTUALLY, AS THE FIRST SCHOOL WAS SWEPT AWAY IN A STORM.

READY TO PAINT.

COME TO MY EASEL.

HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN TEACHING PAINTING?

TEACHER: 25 YEARS.

KIRA: WOW AND WOULD YOU SAY THAT THIS IS THE WORST PAINTING YOU HAVE SEEN?

TEACHER: NO.

IT'S LOVELY.

VERY NICE CLOUDS.

KIRA: THANK YOU.

INSPIRED BY THE ISLAND.

TEACHER: AND THE SEA IS BEAUTIFUL.

KIRA: THANK YOU, I'M WORKING ON THAT.

TEACHER: YOU LOVE PAINTING NOW... KIRA: YEAH, I DO.

I LOVE IT.

TEACHER: YES, I SEE, I SEE.

KIRA: I'M INSPIRED.

I REALLY ENJOY IT.

TEACHER: A LITTLE, LITTLE BIT BLUE.

KIRA: LITTLE BIT.

TEACHER: IT'S LOVELY.

KIRA: IT'S, YOU KNOW, TURNER INSPIRED, A LITTLE VAN GOGH IN THE SEA, LITTLE BIT OF ROTHKO IN THE COLORS AT TOP.

IT'S... NOT THAT PROUD OF IT.

FROM THE SEA TO THE SAILOR, WE MET BENNIE, WHOSE FAMILY HAS BEEN LIVING ON SCHIERMONNIKOOG FOR HUNDREDS OF YEARS.

BENNIE: I WAS BORN 98 YEARS AGO.

KIRA: ON THIS ISLAND?

BENNIE: ON THIS ISLAND, YES.

KIRA: AND YOUR FAMILY HAS LIVED ON THIS ISLAND FOR HOW LONG?

BENNIE: MY FAMILY HAS BEEN HERE FOR HUNDREDS OF YEARS AT LEAST.

FROM MY MOTHER'S SIDE, BUT MY FATHER CAME FROM THE MAINLAND.

HE WAS NOT AN ISLANDER.

KIRA: OK. BENNIE: AND WE HAD OUR OWN LANGUAGE HERE, THE LANGUAGE, THE DIALECT IS DISAPPEARING NOW.

ONLY A FEW PEOPLE SPEAK IT NOW.

I SPEAK IT.

[SPEAKING SCHIERMONNIKOOG DIALECT] KIRA: [SPEAKING SCHIERMONNIKOOG DIALECT] BENNIE: [SPEAKING SCHIERMONNIKOOG DIALECT] YEAH?

KIRA: YEAH, YEAH.

WHAT DID YOU SAY?

BENNIE: NOW WE HAVE TO SAY GOODBYE, MAYBE WE'LL MEET AGAIN SOMETIME.

KIRA: OH, I LIKE THAT.

[MUSIC] NOT TO BE OUTDONE BY HER BROTHER, BENNIE'S WONDERFUL SISTER, HENRIETTA AND HER HUSBAND, ALBERT, GRACIOUSLY INVITED US INTO THEIR HOME AS WELL.

[MUSIC] SO CAN YOU TELL ME WHAT THIS IS?

HENRIETTE: THAT'S THE TWO OF US.

ALBERT: OUR SON MADE IT.

KIRA: THIS IS SO SWEET AND THIS IS, HOW LONG AGO DID HE MAKE IT?

HENRIETTE: 30 YEARS AGO AND NOW WE SAW THAT WE LOOK LIKE IT.

KIRA: IT'S A REALLY CLOSE LIKENESS.

I WAS BORN HERE IN 1934 WHEN THERE WAS NO TRAFFIC AT ALL.

AND THERE WERE ONLY, I THINK, FIVE TELEPHONES FOR THE PEOPLE TO PHONE EACH OTHER.

KIRA: AND WERE YOU BORN ON THIS ISLAND, AS WELL?

ALBERT: NO.

I CAME HERE IN '48 FOR THE FIRST TIME AND THERE WAS A SMALL GIRL RUNNING AROUND WITH A SMALL ACCORDION.

SHE PLAYED MARVELOUS.

I'D NEVER FORGET THAT.

HENRIETTE: WHAT WAS IT?

ALBERT: MARIA, MARIA.

HENRIETTE: OH YES.

[SINGING] I LOST THE WORDS.

[MUSIC] KIRA: THIS DUTCH TREAT IS PRETTY HARD TO SUM UP, SO I'LL LEAVE IT TO HENRIETTE WHO DOES A PRETTY DARN GOOD JOB OF IT.

♪ CHICAGO, CHICAGO, I'M SINGING THAT SONG ♪ ♪ CHICAGO, CHICAGO, WE'RE NOT IN HONG KONG ♪ ♪ OH NO WE ARE HERE IN THE MIDDLE OF NOWHERE ♪ ♪ SOMEWHERE TOGETHER TOGETHER ON A FARAWAY ISLAND ♪ ♪ SURROUNDED BY THE SEA ♪ ♪ CHICAGO, CHICAGO, WE'RE FEELING OK ♪ ♪ CHICAGO, WE'D RATHER LIKE TO STAY ♪ ♪ FAR AWAY FROM THE TRAFFIC NOISE ♪ ♪ NOBODY NEEDS TO RAISE HIS VOICE ♪ ♪ CHICAGO, CHICAGO, WE'RE OK ♪ KIRA: WONDERFUL JOB.

THANK YOU SO MUCH.

[MUSIC] [MUSIC] KIRA: FOR MORE INFORMATION ABOUT OUR SERIES, VISIT OUR WEBSITE AT ISLANDSWITHOUTCARS.COM.