>> Welcome to Joseph Rosendo's "Travelscope..." where you join us as we accept the world's invitation to visit.

>> Today on "Travelscope," I sample the modern... >> [Speaks Japanese] >> the ancient, and the natural in Tokyo, Japan.

Ha ha!

>> Joseph Rosendo's "Travelscope" is made possible by... >> San Antonio, Texas, where you'll find art, culture, romance, authentic TexMex, 50-plus golf courses, and hundreds of attractions.

San Antonio, deep in the heart.

And No-Jet-Lag, jet lag prevention.

>> Tokyo is 1,200 square miles.

It consists of 23 wards, 26 cities, 5 towns, 8 villages, 9 island chains, and 12 million people.

And from top of Roppongi Hill's Tokyo city view, you can see it all except for the islands.

But you also can see Mt.

Fuji.

Mt.

Fuji is part of the suitcase full of can't-miss attractions that first-time visitors to Tokyo expect to see.

Also high on their list are sites like the flashy neon lights and garish billboards of Ginza and hoards of people swarming across Shibuya Scramble.

Ha ha!

It's been said this intersection, called the Scramble, where Meiji Street and Shubuya Station meet, was the model for the renovation of Times Square.

Well, all I can tell you, it's never felt as chaotic and wild and crazy in Times Square as it feels here.

You don't escape the busy streets in Tokyo subway.

Tokyo station is an underground city with scores of shops and restaurants.

Yet with your prepaid Pasmo card, you can get from there to almost anywhere quickly and easily.

Tokyo's idiosyncratic pop culture is sure to catch a first-time visitor's eye.

Manga, Japanese comics, and anime, animated cartoons, cater to all ages and tastes.

They come to life at the Maid Cafe, where men drop in for sweets, drinks, and a bit of silliness.

>> [Speaking Japanese] >> In Tokyo, pop culture rules, and one of the more eccentric manifestations of their obsession with pop culture are the maid cafes... >> [Speaking Japanese] >> where the waitresses are dressed as handmaids.

Arigato.

Ha ha.

Inspired by the manga and anime subculture, in the Harajuku neighborhood, Tokyo's fashion-conscious youth take eccentric dress to new heights.

Particularly on the weekends, it seems like every young person in Tokyo congregates here on Takashima Street, right here in front of the Harajuku Station.

Now, they come to see and be seen, to strut their stuff, but funny enough, some top designers come to get some interesting fashion ideas.

While the glitz and glamour of modern Tokyo excites the senses, the heart and soul of the Japanese is found in their ancient customs, traditions, and symbiotic bond with the sea.

Next morning at the 56-acre Tsukiji fish market, I began to sense those cultural connections.

One of the fun attractions to do here in Tokyo is to come to the Tsukiji fish market very early in the morning.

It's been here since 1923, and today we see more than 2,000 tons of fish here, but they get more than 1,000 tons of vegetables.

Hiromi, this is a grand example of the many different kinds of fish they have here at the fish market.

How many species can you find here?

>> Would you believe it's over 600?

>> 600?

And they come every day here?

>> Mostly from Japan, but of course all over the world.

>> Extraordinary.

Look at what they have here.

They have crabs and clams.

Oh, look here.

>> Ah!

>> Ah!

Oh, hello.

I can't go by raw oysters without trying one.

>> Ok. >> Even though, what is it, 7:30 in the morning?

I have to have one.

One.

>> All right.

>> Ah, ok. Ah.

Arigato.

So this will be good and fresh, huh?

>> Mmm.

>> And a mouthful.

Look at that.

Mm-mmm.

>> Good?

>> Mmm!

>> Oishii.

>> Wow.

Those are wonderful.

They're so fresh, and I could taste the sea.

Arigato.

>> [Speaks Japanese] >> Hiromi, this is something pretty interesting here in the market.

It's not fish.

>> No.

This is a turtle omelet.

We call that tamagoyaki.

>> Look at them working back there.

That's how they make it.

>> Yes, this is okara cake.

>> Arigato.

Look at this.

Mmm.

Come on, you're gonna help me.

Mmm!

>> Mmm!

Oishii.

Oishii.

>> Oishii.

Oishii.

Delicious.

Although the Tokyo Central Wholesale Market offers many things, it's famously known as the Tsukiji Fish Market because seafood is the main attraction, and the cutting of a big tuna, a standing-room-only event.

What's the name of the restaurant?

>> Ichiban.

>> Ichiban.

>> Ichiban means number one.

>> Number--Number one su--Well, now, how big do you think this fish is?

>> 60 kilograms.

>> About 100 pounds.

>> ...pounds.

>> And what would it cost for a fish like that?

>> That size worth about $4,000.

>> Wow.

Now, this happens every Saturday?

>> Every Saturday.

>> At what time?

>> 11:00.

>> 11:00.

[Crowd oohs and ahs] >> Would you like to try it?

>> Yes, of course.

>> Go ahead.

>> Ah.

Arigato.

Mmm... >> Mmm... >> I'm the envy of the crowd.

>> Yeah, exactly, exactly.

They say it's nigiri.

>> Oishii, Oishii.

>> Oishii!

>> Oishii!

Arigato!

Arigato.

Arigato.

But we can't leave here without trying the fish.

Now that we've seen it cut, let's go try some.

This is exciting.

Now we're actually having sushi at a restaurant right here in the fish market.

I know that it's not sushi because of the fish, it's because of the rice.

>> Exactly.

>> And also sashimi is just the piece of raw fish.

>> Exactly.

Exactly.

>> And you certainly can't get any fresher fish than the fish in the market.

>> Mm-hmm.

>> That's the kind of tuna you like.

Fatty belly?

>> Yes.

>> And you can tell from the color... >> Yes.

>> The different parts of the tuna.

He's putting some of that omelet on.

Do they make it here?

>> They buy it from that store.

>> From the store we were at?

>> Mmm.

>> So everything ties together.

What a great day.

>> Yes.

>> How do you say, "Let's eat"?

>> Ok... [Speaks Japanese] Ha ha!

>> [Repeats Japanese phrase} >> Right.

>> Ah.

In Tokyo, it seems all the food is in a performance art state of mind, starting with the deceptively tasty dishes that you see in the restaurant's windows.

There are many, many restaurants in Tokyo.

Unfortunately there are not as many English menus.

But never fear, thanks to Japanese plastic food art, you can choose your meal from the display in the window.

At a okonomiyaki restaurant, you can cut your own pancake-like dishes at the table.

Mmm.

This is a special dish from Tokyo?

>> Yes.

>> Mmm!

Ooh!

>> [Speaks Japanese] >> At a robatayaki, they deliver your grilled food on a long paddle accompanied by enthusiastic exaltations.

>> [Yelling in Japanese] >> Arigato.

Yet the most common meal of all is a hot and hearty bowl of noodles.

Oh, arigato.

And the Japanese version of quick comfort food is at the ramen house.

Behind Tokyo's contemporary facade, in its neighborhoods and towns, life takes on a more cultural expression.

Ningyocho is one of these towns of Tokyo.

It's particularly noted because there are 7 Shinto shrines here, each one dedicated to one of the 7 deities of good luck.

Now, this more-than-100-year-old shop is famous because here they make a special dessert, a Japanese pancake in the shape of the faces of the 7 deities.

Yohei is the master of the Japanese pancakes that they make here.

What are you doing?

>> I'm checking the temperature.

>> You're checking--That's scary.

That's very, very scary.

>> Yeah.

>> Now, what are these particular pancakes called?

>> Ningyo-yaki.

>> Ningyo-yaki.

Now, what does that mean?

>> That means is baked dolls.

>> Baked dolls.

How old are these molds that you have here?

>> This one?

>> Uh-huh.

It's a 100-year-old mold.

>> Is very heavy.

>> Whoa, it is.

Look at that.

Everybody thinks Tokyo is just about technology and modern, but here's a traditional art that's continuing to go on right here on the streets.

Here's the filling right now.

>> This is red bean paste.

>> Red bean paste, which is very, very popular in Japan.

You'll get a lot of different pastries and sweets and desserts which will have red bean in the mix somewhere.

>> Actually proud of making by hand.

>> It's good to see that you're keeping the tradition alive here.

>> Ha ha!

>> You can eat these now?

>> Yes, it's very hot.

>> So I've got two gods in my hand.

I'm not sure exactly what they do, but I know these are the 7 deities of good luck.

Mmm!

Oishii.

That means delicious in Japanese, and you can learn that word because there are many things here in Tokyo that are Oishii.

Arigato.

>> Arigato.

>> The old and new peacefully coexisting here in Tokyo.

"All the more I wish to see in those blossoms at dawn the face of god."

[Gong sounds] "The temple bell stops, but the sound keeps coming out of the flowers."

Haikus by Basha.

Oh, hi.

>> [Speaks Japanese] >> The Shibamata Taishakuten temple is not only a place of worship, but a communal gathering spot where locals engage in spiritual and physical rituals good for the soul and body.

Morning exercise and song promote health and happiness, especially when aided by 1,000 origami paper cranes and a Buddhist blessing.

Tokyo has many hidden gems, and it would take a lifetime, if even then, for you to see them all.

A real treasure is the Shibamata Taishakuten Buddhist temple, founded in 1629 and located about 45, 50 minutes northeast of the center of Tokyo.

And besides its beautiful temple buildings, it's noted for these amazing wood carvings that were begun in 1922 and took 12 years to complete.

And a very formal traditional Japanese garden.

Coming here really gives you the opportunity to appreciate the more artistic, serene, and tranquil side of Japanese culture.

The serenity I experience at the Shibamata Taishakuten temple and gardens is complimented by bustling life I find in the narrow streets of Shibamata, a neighborhood that has retained its traditional look and spirit.

Another great reason to come here to the Shibamata area besides visiting the temple is this street that connects the Shibamata station and the temple.

It's filled with all sorts of shops and restaurants serving all sorts of interesting things like this here.

Ah!

>> Hi.

>> Hey, hey.

Ohio, ohio.

>> Ohio.

>> So what is this?

>> Japanese soul food.

>> Ha!

>> Yeah.

Thank you.

>> It doesn't matter.

Look at this.

Wow.

Mmm.

Very good.

>> Oh, thank you.

>> Very good.

I don't know what I'm eating, but it doesn't really matter because it is-- it's oishii?

>> Oishii.

>> Oishii.

Delicious.

Oishii.

Ha ha!

Ohio.

Ohio.

>> [Speaking Japanese] Ha ha!

>> What is this?

>> [Speaks Japanese] >> Oh, ok. And this one?

>> Raisin.

>> Raisin?

Oh, ok, I'll have raisin.

>> Ok. >> Ok, arigato, arigato.

Now, this is real interesting over here.

This is poop.

>> Yes.

Ancient money... money... >> Right.

>> And the gold.

>> Money and gold.

>> Gold.

And it does mean luck and poo.

>> And poo.

So it's golden poo.

>> It's Japanese junk.

>> Do you have to be golden to have this be your poo?

No.

>> Ha ha!

>> Arigato!

>> [Speaks Japanese] Ha ha!

>> Ohio.

>> Oh, you're speaking in Japanese.

>> Now, what do you have here?

Squid.

>> Very heated.

Be careful.

>> Mmm...very good, very chewy, and very squid-like.

Mmm!

Ok. Well, you're so kind, you're so kind.

Arigato.

Arigato.

Thank you so much.

>> Thank you.

>> To continue my explorations of Tokyo's traditional side, I head back to town and step into another era.

Nothing is more representative of Japan than the kimono.

And at all levels of society, it's pretty much been like that ever since the beginning.

It did fall out of favor in the mid-19th century when western influence began to enter the country, but it's always had a place at special occasions, ceremonies, and at any events culturally Japanese.

And now it's made a comeback in daily life, and even visitors get to share in the experience.

Arigato.

Kakkoii.

Often associated with the Japanese, the rickshaw only dates back to the mid-19th century.

Originally for carrying goods, it soon was used as an elegant means of transportation.

Today rickshaws are for tourists or for special occasions.

On the other hand, Shintoism is at the core of every Japanese, their cultural heritage, and part of their national identity.

An ancient belief, "Shinto" means the way of the gods, and at the Kameido Jinja shrine, I learn some of the ways of Shinto.

First we symbolically purify ourselves by washing our hands and mouth.

Then we make a lucky 5-yen offering and ring the suzu bell to attract the attention of the countless Shinto deities.

Finally before entering the sanctuary for our blessing from the priest, we bow two times, clap twice while focusing on our prayers, and then bow once more.

>> [Chanting] [Speaks Japanese] >> Do you think that Shintoism still has something to offer modern-day Japanese?

>> [Speaking Japanese] >> If I wanted to become a Shintoist, what is the most important thing that I need to learn?

When we're at our best, when we're in balance with nature and god and community, we're all a little Shinto.

Thank you.

>> Arigato.

>> Arigato.

[Bell rings] >> By birth, all Japanese are Shinto, yet since its introduction from China and Korea in the sixth century, Buddhism has grown in popularity, and today about half the Japanese population also practice Buddhism.

The most revered Buddhist temple in Tokyo is Sensoji.

Before there was a Tokyo, there was a Sensoji temple, which was founded in the seventh century.

The story goes that in 628, two fishermen were divinely directed to cast their nets at a particular location.

When they brought them in, in the nets was a small gold statue.

They took it back to their village, and the head man recognized it as the Buddhist goddess of mercy, Guanyin, and built a temple on the spot.

In 1945 the temple complex was almost completely destroyed during the firebombing of Tokyo, but since it had always been a temple that had served the high and mighty as well as the commoner, there was an incredible effort from all walks of life towards the reconstruction, which was finished in 1958.

It continues to be a gathering place and a place for prayer, meditation, and celebration.

Both Shintoism and Buddhism promote respect for nature and community.

At no time do these expressions of the Japanese identity unite so dramatically as during the spring Hanami Festival, when along Tokyo's streets, rivers, parks, and gardens people come together for cherry blossom viewing.

For one week, usually beginning the end of March, the sakura, the cherry trees, are in bloom in Tokyo.

During the peak time of the cherry blossoms, the ground beneath the best sakura trees sprout blue plastic tarps where young salary men, junior office staff, stake out space for their company's Hanami celebration.

Did you spend all night here?

To reserve the spot?

>> Yeah.

>> So that people won't come and take this spot?

Now, tell me about the Hanami Festival.

What happens during the Hanami Festival?

>> Uh, drinking and eating.

>> Drinking and...Ha ha!

What time do you start?

>> 6 p.m. >> 6 p.m.?

You're gonna stay here until then?

>> Yes.

>> Ha ha!

Well, don't drink too much saki.

Kanpai.

>> Kanpai.

>> Mmm.

Things are looking more beautiful every moment.

>> Ha ha!

>> As night falls, the Hanami festivities begin at Ueno Park, a popular spot for cherry blossom viewing and parties.

Beneath the park's 1,200 blooming sakura, Japanese of all ages gather in groups to celebrate.

Where are you from?

A company or are you students?

>> University of Tokyo.

>> From the University of Tokyo.

And you guys are on spring break, right?

>> No.

>> No, not really.

>> Something like that.

>> Ha ha!

>> Something like that, yeah.

>> You should be studying now, is that what you're telling me?

>> Yeah.

>> What time did you have to get up?

>> 6:30.

>> 6:30 this morning?

>> Yeah.

>> I met some other people.

They had to stay up all night.

They had sleeping bags and everything, so you were lucky.

So is this a time since it's the beginning of spring when you talk about very serious matters, life and the changing seasons?

Do you read haiku to each other?

>> [Laughter] >> This year we're just drinking and eating and talking.

>> Oh, good, good.

>> Yeah, we always need some excuse to drink.

>> Ha ha!

>> You know, one thing I wanted to suggest to you, that you here, this group of students from the university start a new Japanese tradition.

When you see each other during the Hanami time, you say, "Happy Hanami!"

>> Listen... >> Ok, listen, 1, 2, 3.

>> Happy Hanami!

>> Arigato!

Thank you so much.

Thank you so much.

Bye-bye.

>> Bye!

>> Bye!

>> Yeah.

And... >> Happy Hanami!

Thank you for joining me on my Tokyo city adventure.

This was my first visit to Tokyo, and the city is overwhelming.

For the traveler, there are so many paths to follow that I felt torn in every direction all at once.

Historical, natural, spiritual, cultural.

Whatever road you take proves fascinating.

While Tokyo's modern technology, flashy neon, trendy shops, and eccentric pop culture catch the eye, away from the obvious, you'll find remnants of the past and celebrations of tradition that touch the heart.

Tokyo may be a city that lives on the cutting edge of the now, but its people still take the time to cherish their heritage and celebrate the passing of the seasons.

Until next time, this is Joseph Rosendo reminding you of the words of Mark Twain, "Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness."

Happy traveling.

Happy Hanami.

>> Joseph Rosendo's "Travel Scope" is made possible by... >> San Antonio, Texas, where you'll find art, culture, romance, authentic TexMex, 50-plus golf courses, and hundreds of attractions.

San Antonio, deep in the heart.

And No-Jet-Lag, jet lag prevention.

>> For a DVD of today's show or any of Joseph's "Travelscope" adventures, call 888-876-3399.

Or order online at Travelscope.net.

You could also email us at TV@Travelscope.net.

Or write us at the address on your screen.

>> Now that we've explored Tokyo, Japan, together, learn more at Travelscope.net, where you can follow my worldwide adventures through my emagazine, blog, podcast, and on Facebook.

Stay in touch.

888-876-3399.

Or TV@Travelscope.net.

>> Thank you.

>> Arigato.

>> [Speaking Japanese} >> How are you?

>> How are you?

See?

He speaks English.

You speak English.

>> No, I can speak English a little.

>> A little.

Well, you speak more English than I do Japanese.

You speak more English than I do Japanese.

I speak--I speak littler.

>> Oh, you can speak the Japanese?

>> No.

All I can say is arigato.

>> Arigato.

Thank you.

>> That's it.

Ok. >> [Speaks Japanese] I am tired.

>> You're tired.

You know that word?

>> Yes.

>> I am tired.

I am tired, too.

>> I am tired a little.

>> Ha ha!